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Technical & Safety: Emergency Breakdown Kit, Replacing the 911 Fan Belt, Stopping Break Squeaks

Pelican Technical Article:

Technical & Safety: Emergency Breakdown Kit, Replacing the 911 Fan Belt, Stopping Break Squeaks

Lee Rice


0 hours0 hrs







Applicable Models:

Porsche 911 (1965-89)
Porsche 912 (1965-69)
Porsche 930 Turbo (1976-89)
Porsche 964 Carrera 2 (1990-94)
Porsche 964 Carrera 4 (1989-94)
Porsche 964 RS America (1993-94)
Porsche 964 Turbo (1991-94)
Porsche 993 Carrera (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4 (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4S (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera S (1998)
Porsche 993 Targa (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Turbo (1996-97)

Parts Required:


Performance Gain:

General tips and knowledge on emergency breakdown kits, fan belt replacement, and screeching disc brakes.

Complementary Modification:

Engine bay cleaning and detailing.
Emergency Breakdown Kit

    A recent inquiry addressed "What should be carried in a Porsche to get going after a break down?'  All cars need a few basics, starting off with flashlight, batteries, first aid kit, road flares, a clean rag or two.

     As for Porsches there are some special things that are required to do the simplest things. The Porsche Tool Kit has screwdrivers, wrenches, tow lug. etc. and the basic special tools for that particular model. The most common 911 tool kit item needed is the fan belt tools and the replacement belts.. You are going to need those tools to change the belts.

     The first thing you need to do is find out what you have. Start by checking your owners manual. If you don't have one start right there and get one. This is a great reference for finding things and understanding how they work.

     Fuse and light bulbs are a good item to carry along in a small box so as to not break the bulbs. Fuses are necessary for replacement not only when they blow, but before. Fuses that look wavy and bent are very worn out from the high current flowing through them. Discolored or corroded fuses should be replaced as well. Carry a spare fan belt in a sealed plastic bag (this slows ozone deterioration).

     Why not carry a tool box in your Porsche? Those small hardware store specials are all yon need or use one of the goodie bags from a parade you have attended. What to put inside?

Start with:

  • An adjustable wrench. 10 inch
  • A set of 7mm to 19mm wrenches.
  • A small socket set 3 to 17 mm.
  • A '" drive 19mm deep socket.
  • A '" dr. Breaker Bar & a 4" extension.
  • A Fuel mixture Allen wrench for 1973.
  • A small mirror
  • One fuel nozzle
  • A hex key wrench (Allen) 2 thin It) mm.
  • A Tube of Bosch Ignition Grease  (Great stuff for any lubrication use)
  • A Spark plug socket and a 3" extension
  • A Spark plug connector
  • A Spark plug
  • A small roll of Electricians tape
  • A Red Relay for Fuel Pump or 3-4 Fan
  • Belt shims.
  • A small knife.
  • A small capsule of Coins
  • A assortment of nuts, bolts, washers.

     This is a pretty good list of things I carry in my own 911. 1 rarely ever need to use them but I like to know they are there. Note: The little plastic bottles that come with your new roll of film are good containers for your small parts. If they are not see through, put a label on them.

Fan Belt Replacement on a 911

     The first thing to do before changing a fan belt is to gather the tools. Do you have the fan pulley holder tool? This item is necessary to remove and install the fan belt. Replacing the fan belt on a 911 requires the tool kit's fan nut wrench to remove the fan pulley retaining nut and the holding tool.  This is a steel flat bar about 13" long and has a half moon cut out to fit around the fan pulley hub with two holder pins ('65-'77).  The 1978-'79 holder has a single hook pin. If your 911 tool kit does not have these basic tools, get them. Your dealer can order the exact ones as can Porsche Catalog Suppliers.

     When replacing the 911 fan belt you will remove the fan pulley nut by holding the pulley with the holding tool. As the nut loosens the dome washer behind the nut will loosen also. As the nut, dome washer, and the pulley are removed you will see some shims behind the dome washer. You will also see more shims on the other side of the fan pulley. There are usually six total. These six shims are necessary to set the proper tension on the new belt and correctly space the pulley. Start with three on each side of the pulley. Use a little BOSCH grease in each shim to get them to stick together. New belts are a little stiff and you need to carefully slide three shims on the fan post. install the new belt and hold it against the fan while installing the outer pulley against the belt. Carefully engage the fan post. Next place the other three shims over the fan post . The dome washer and nut are fitted next. Slowly screw on the nut using the finger tips, keep the shims centered behind the dome washer. If any portion of the shim is showing it is not fitting over the fan post.

     As the nut is taking up slack and stretching the belt into place, rotate the fan itself. I like to hold the nut with the wrench and rotate the fan, thus tightening the nut and centering the dome washer, shims and pulley all together. If everything is ok, the nut will come against the pulley and shims firmly and tighten up with one or two threads showing past the nut.

     Check to see if the tension is lightly firm on a cold engine and on a warm engine time belt should flex 3/8 at mid point. Rotate the fan with your wrench and look and feel for smooth even movement. The fan pulley must turn parallel to the fan . No wobbles - no problems. If the belt is too loose you need to remove the nut, dome washer. outer shims and pulley. Remove one shim from the inside and reinstall the fan belt, pulley, the four shims on the outside of the pulley, the dome washer and nut. Reinstall everything as before and check the tension.

     On the 1978 and later cars owners are cautioned as those fan pulleys are smaller in diameter and can break at the area around the small holes just out from the mating area of the dome washer. Look these over carefully for any warping or cracks. If the pulley is not perfect, replace it. For '78 and later it is advisable to carry a spare pulley in your tool box.

Screaching Disc Brakes

     I've never had quite such a problem with screeching brakes as I've had with the 930 Turbo brakes. These brakes have a large four-piston caliper made of a very hard aluminum alloy and are rigidly mounted to the suspension. After I installed these brakes on my 68 911 Turbo car I started encountering squealing upon every brake application. I went through every trick I've ever learned - all to no avail. These tricks included truing the discs. I've tried hard pads and soft ones, Wedge grinding the leading edge of the pads. Gluing the factory metal insulators on different pad compounds. Applying that blue silicone goop on the back of the pad where it contact caliper pistons. I even tried using silicone grease on the pad backing plate. It didn't help. Some of these fixes did improve things for a while but they never came close to a cure. The parts suppliers and the dealers told me that the turbo brake is the most difficult to help. Note I didn't say fix. I tried their recommendations and the brakes still squeaked!

     So what is this new Tech Tip? Well at one of my local auto parts store where they sell "Bars Leak", they also have something called "Stop Brake Squeal" from QUALITEE International Parts. It is a set of heavy aluminum coated foil shims with a SCOTCH-3M Hi Temperature Acrylic self-sticking back. The retail price is around $4.50 a set. So. having tried everything else I reasoned why not. I installed a set of these on my Blue 911 since last November and only heard a chirp or two. I have driven in all the rain storms this year and used the brakes in earnest more than once-these brakes really work, no wonder they adapted them from the 917. So as of June 1998 This fix is a winner!

Lee Rice writes the monthly Technical & Safety column for the Orange Coast PCA(zone 8) Newsletter.  He has generously allowed Pelican Parts to republish these articles here for the benefit of everyone who visits the site.

Comments and Suggestions:
steve Comments: upon slowing down my 1984 911 recently i noticed my front end starts howling at slow speeds without braking.the only way the sound disappears if i apply the brakes. even just touching the brake pedal lightly makes the sound go away. the brakes look and work fine so i don't know what is causing that rubbing noise.
October 23, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The pads naturally "float" or rub against the rotors. You can remove the pads and place sticky backing plats on them that will attach them better to the pistons and prevent this noise. Also, taking the car to a parking lot, going in reverse really fast and then stomping on the brakes a few times can also fix this problem, as it will wear any burrs on the pads by braking with the rotors turning in the opposite direction. This usually works, but then the problem often returns a few days later. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Tue 2/20/2018 02:21:51 AM