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Rear Spoiler Wall Installation

Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Spoiler Wall Installation

Garey L. Cooper


1-2 hours






Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, allen wrenches, Utility or X-Acto knife.

Applicable Models:

Porsche 993 Carrera (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4 (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4S (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera S (1998)
Porsche 993 Targa (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Turbo (1996-97)

Parts Required:

Rear spoiler wall.

Performance Gain:

Restores cooling and aerodynamics of the rear spoiler.

Complementary Modification:

Grille restoration or replacement.


The 993 Series of Carerra’s (with the exception of the Aero kit and Turbo cars which have a wing) utilize an automatic raising and lowering spoiler. Porsche claims aerodynamic stability enhancement and better cooling of the 3.6 Liter motor are the technical reasons for the flap. The spoiler was first introduced on the 964 Series cars in the late 1980’s.

The spoiler has a convoluted plastic piece that is referred to as a “Rear Spoiler Wall” in the documentation at the back of the assembly. The Rear Spoiler Wall directs airflow downward into the engine compartment after it has been raised with the spoiler.

The Rear Spoiler Wall is convoluted or articulated so that it can fold down when not deployed and pull straight across the rear of the car when extended. The nearest analogy is the room divider curtains that can be drawn across some hotel rooms to divide them into smaller units. Because the spoiler wall is plastic and folded it will sooner or later tear or separate in long-term service. My own lasted for nearly six years in a 1995 Model 993 Carerra 2. You cannot tell if your spoiler wall is torn or beginning to separate unless you deploy the spoiler and inspect it visually. In the flat or folded down position it is not possible to see any separation (at least I could not). So, to see whether your Rear Spoiler Wall is separated park your car and raise the spoiler, using the switch on your center console to do so.



You will need to raise your spoiler to have access to the area for assembly and disassembly. So, just as you did in the inspection phase use the center console switch to raise your spoiler. However, in this case do not raise it fully. Raise to approximately 3/4 or so of its’ full available HEIGHT. Once you have the spoiler in this position remove the key from the ignition and proceed to the repair.

Removing Grill

The upper grill that raises and lowers is held in place by four (4) Allen head bolts or screws. These are metric but I found a very close USA equivalent Allen wrench that worked. These are located just under the grill piece on either side of the wing. Remove these four screws and in turn remove the grill. Be careful not to scratch the paint as you remove the screws as the grill may flop in one direction or another as it become

detached. Because my Rear Spoiler Wall had completely separated the grill simply lifted right off. If yours has not completely separated it will be necessary to cut the remaining attachment points to easily remove the grill. Place the grill on a smooth surface upside down.

Removing Old Spoiler Wall

The spoiler wall is held to the upper and lower attachment points by channels that are molded into either end. The lower or bottom attachment of the Rear Spoiler Wall is connected to the fixed point via a rubber channel. Both the upper and lower points can be snapped off by hand. In doing so note which part of the Rear Spoiler Wall is up and which is down. After carefully noting the orientation of the original Rear Spoiler Wall snap it out of the attachment points on the grill. Then return to the car and snap the remaining half out of the car it self. Remove the rubber channel from the lower half of the Rear Spoiler Wall.

Clean the rubber channel and inspect its’ suitability for re-use. In my case the rubber channel was in excellent shape and I would imagine that it is rare that this rubber channel would also need replacement.

Installing New Rear Spoiler Wall

Connect the bottom or lower portion of the Rear Spoiler Wall to the rubber channel. Return to the car and attach the rubber channel to the edge of the engine cover from where you removed it. 

Now experimentally raise the Rear Spoiler wall and note that there is a channel that runs across it from side to side about half way up. This channel is a locator that goes behind two dowels on the channel of the lifting and raising mechanism. Using care, place the channel behind the two dowels. After having done this the Rear Spoiler Wall will be extended about half way up (at least to the dowel attachment point) and fixed at its’ bottom location.

Next reattach the grill to the two front Allen bolts, leaving the back half of the grill “floating”. Once again be careful not to scratch the paint, I used two shop rags on either side to keep the grill from contacting the engine hood paintwork. 

This next part will test your patience a little and does require some careful hand manipulation but it can be done. Just use patience and be conscious of using too much force that could result in damage. 

Raise the Rear Spoiler Wall and tilt the grill so that you can begin one side of the channel engagement for attachment. Start there and work your way across the grill pushing the Rear Spoiler Wall onto the attachment lip approximately one inch at a time. You may need to align the spoiler as you go for the side-to-side clearance. As you approach the end you should hear and feel as well as see a last, satisfying “click” as the final bit of Rear Spoiler Wall snaps into place.

Finally, reattach the last two Allen bolts to the grill. The raising and lowering mechanism has arms that the Allen bolts attach to and they will move around a bit as you try to put them back into place. Again, use patience and be careful not to bend or force them and they should move right into location for final tightening. There is no need to over tighten the Allen bolts, they are not worked very hard. Snug them down and they will stay that way for a long time. After this stand back and check the side-to-side alignment of the grill and folding mechanism, it should be fine but it is worth a double check. Next reinsert the ignition key and raise the spoiler to the fully extended position. Check it visually for alignment or any other problems. Then, cycle the spoiler to the fully down position and check it once more. I took the time to raise and lower the spoiler a couple of times to ensure that things were in alignment and working fine. It is difficult to get things too far out of alignment (unless you bend them!) because the raising and lowering mechanism is made to keep things more or less in synchronization. 

For your last act stand back and admire the simplicity and ruggedness of the entire system and don’t forget to brag to all of your friends “I did it myself”!


1.The Allen bolts or screws for the grill are specially designed with large shoulders. They are black in color and made out of a fairly soft metal. Use caution when removing them, if they are in very, very tightly I would recommend using the correctly sized metric wrench to avoid stripping the heads of the bolts. There is no nut on the back of these bolts, they thread directly into the arms of the raising and lowering mechanism.

2.While everything is apart is a good time to clean the entire area of the rear spoiler. Just remember to keep the removed pieces in order on your bench so that when you return to them twenty or thirty (or more) minutes later you don’t have to remember in which order they reassemble! The Rear Spoiler Wall is not symmetrical and there is a right and a wrong way up! 

3.The raising and lowering mechanism for the 993 series cars is notoriously noisy. While mine was disassembled I used Lithium grease and 3-in-1 oil to lubricate various parts to quiet this noise. It didn’t work, it still sounds like a coffee grinder going down, so I wouldn’t advocate spending a lot of time on this task.

4.I intend this article to be used as a guide to others with the same interest as I do in the proper maintenance and operation of their vehicle. I cannot take responsibility for any problems that may arise in the application of the thoughts and instructions that are contained in this article. I would guess that the degree of difficulty of this procedure is “medium”. I would not recommend undertaking this procedure without any prior mechanical experience. The time to complete this task for me was approximately one hour total.

Comments and Suggestions:
24fps Comments: thanks to OP & especially the last easy 5 min. posts.

fwiw: 2nd time to replace on the 993 in 14 years & this last time i believe my detailer broke the wall, otherwise I believe it would be fine.

note: as of 12-2016 it seems the Porsche &/or OEM version has become less flexible and more rigid material fitting very tight when in open position. But now seems to have several silicone-bead seams where once was only a thin fold.

Guess, we'll see if this is a superior part over the next few years.

bol to all.
December 6, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Randy Comments: Great writeup, thanks! I found that the most difficult part was attaching the lower portion onto the car, so I did things a little different and it was pretty easy.

With the spoiler off, attach the spoiler wall to the rubber piece that attaches to the car. Then take the whole thing and slide the rubber piece under the round bar, then press it onto the metal lip below. All of this is happening on the car, not the spoiler.

With the rubber lip on, slip the grooved channel onto that round cross bar. While doing so, be sure to tuck the next channel up under the little pins on each side. Now you are ready to attach the spoiler.

Loosely attach the 2 rearmost allen screws. Place a rag under the spoiler at the rear where it may swing back to hit your engine lid. Take the spoiler wall and press the channel onto the lip on the bottom of the spoiler. This took a fair amount of effort, but I was able to do it by starting at one end, pressing very hard, and working my way across to the other side.

Now just add the front allens, tighten all 4 screws, and you are done.
August 18, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Tony Comments: I found that the removal of the spoiler facilitated the difficult task of popping the barrier on to the spoiler first. That is, while it was still off the car, before loosely fitting the spoiler with two of the Allen screws. As was said by Scott, the trick is to be careful removing the Allen screws because it's very easy to scratch the paint given their location. Perhaps some masking tape applied on the "at risk” painted surfaces would be a good idea.
December 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I like applying tape to body panels to protect them.

Great tip. - Nick at Pelican Parts
tom Comments: No need to remove the spoiler. Start by attaching the top of the wall, then the bottom. Easier w/ lid open so you can manipulate the lower rubber seal into place from the engine compartment side.

The key to success is leaving the grill open midway so that the bottom of the wall can be unclipped from its cross bar. Too far & the bottom is captured by the rear of the decklid.
August 17, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
the1beard Comments: This can apparently be done without removing the spoiler just raise it 3/4 three/quaters of the way up and remove and install. Much simpler than removing the spoiler.
January 15, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Scott Comments: Second time I've had to do this a couple of notes for the next time, or anyone else.

Allen size on the 4 bolts is 5mm, but the clearance is tight. Careful using a standard 90 degree allen wrench, as when completely inserted in the bolt, the long end of the wrench will rub the bottom of the spoiler, scratching the paint. It will be on the bottom and almost impossible to see, but still annoying.

On the step where you are putting the spoiler back on the car before reattaching the wall, the writer say's front, but the pictures show it's the rear...having tried putting it on using the front first, it's impossible. So put the rear towards the rear of the car in first.

Regarding note 3. Lastly, and most important, a couple of drops of graphite oil graphite in a very light liquid carrier and the "coffee grinder" was gone...completely silent except for the little motor wind...very nice.
July 25, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts

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Page last updated: Tue 2/20/2018 02:21:44 AM