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Pelican Technical Article:

Removing the Crankshaft Pulley

Mike Holloway


1 hour1 hr






13mm socket wrench, breaker bar, 6-inch extension, 27mm socket wrench (optional)

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz R107 (1972-89)

Hot Tip:

Remove any component to provide more room

Performance Gain:

Access to vibration dampener, crank hub and timing chain cover

Complementary Modification:

Timing chain, chain tensioner, tensioner rail, and cam sprocket replacement

One would think that when the engine is at speed there is a higher incidence of wear and eventual failure. This isn't necessarily true in the case of certain components, namely the timing chain. Chains, sprockets, gears and even bearings experience the most wear upon startup. The timing chain and the various components (guide rails, tensioning rail, chain tensioner) wear out after 100,000 miles and should be replaced. The sprockets should also be replaced. The chains can stretch but they also wear. As each rolling element of the link begins to experience wear it sets up for increased vibration and movement of the chain links and pins against the sprocket surface. As many teeth as the sprocket has, the chain has many more links. The sprocket surface wears down contributing to more movement as the chain passes over the sprocket surfaces. This creates an even greater opportunity for chain breakage.

The guide rails will be the first order of business to address. In order to change the guide rails in preparation for the replacement of the timing chain, all the components in front will have to be removed. This includes the belts, pulleysalternator, the distributor and the power steering pump were all removed. Please refer to these articles should you need assistance.

I also removed the radiator. Normally you wouldn't have to do that but it was already out due to the development of another article. Refer to removing the radiator article for help in that regard.

Also, the distributor should be set at top dead center (TDC) and marked. This is needed when you put everything back. The distributor was also removed earlier. Hence, you can refer to the distributor removal article if you need assistance.

The valve cover will have to be removed as well. In order to do that you will have to remove the air box. Refer to the valve cover removal article for help on how to do that project.

The chain guide is held in place by bearing bolts. These devilish devices provide hours of frustration if not properly dealt with. There are several ways in which they can be removed. The easiest way is to use a tool offered up by Pelican Parts called a rail pin puller guide with a 6mm extractor. Please refer to the removing the chain guide article for more information.

The top guide rails should also be replaced. It is not necessary to remove the timing chain cover to get at the guides but it would make the job easier. The lower ones shall be replaced but require the removal of the timing chain cover. That task is also required for the timing chain replacement. Referring to the timing chain replacement article will help you with that project.

In order to take off the vibration dampener and crank hub, the crankshaft pulley has to be removed.

Set the crank to top dead center (TDC).
Figure 1

Set the crank to top dead center (TDC).

The crankshaft pulley is held on very tightly with 13mm bolts.
Figure 2

The crankshaft pulley is held on very tightly with 13mm bolts.

Using a 13mm socket, a 6-inch extension and a breaker bar, loosen and remove the 6 bolts holding the vibration dampener.
Figure 3

Using a 13mm socket, a 6-inch extension and a breaker bar, loosen and remove the 6 bolts holding the vibration dampener. You may have to hold the vibration dampener in place with a 27mm socket held to the crank hub bolt.

The crankshaft pulley is now free.
Figure 4

The crankshaft pulley is now free. Installation is the opposite of removal.

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Page last updated: Wed 2/21/2018 03:00:17 AM