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Pelican Parts Technical Articles Main Image

MINI Cooper R50 Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Replacement

Applicable Models:

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Rennline Performance Products Lifetime Replacement Parts Pelican Parts Tech Forums
  • Parts Required: Clutch master and slave cylinder
  • Performance Gain: Reliable shifting and clutch operation
  • Complementary Modification: Bleed brake system

The MINI Cooper and Cooper S use a hydraulic clutch engagement system - there are no cables involved with the actuation of the clutch.

When you press on the clutch, pressurized brake fluid moves from the master cylinder through either a metal or rubber line to the slave cylinder mounted on the transmission. This results in a system that takes less physical effort to move.

Although this actually creates a more reliable clutch system, over time, there can be a failure or break-down of the system if the slave or master cylinder get old and begin to leak or fail. A spongy feel to the clutch pedal, grinding of gears when shifting, long pedal travel, and hydraulic leaks under the car are all signs that one or more components of the system have failed. The first place I like to start is the clutch slave cylinder, as it is easy to replace.

Replacement of the slave cylinder on the Cooper S is a snap. Its location is easy to get to from underneath the car. Start by jacking up the car (Pelican Technical Article: Jacking Up Your MINI) and removing the front splash shield. The slave cylinder is located on the right side of the transmission on the front.

The slave cylinder is a bit more difficult to replace on the R50 Cooper models. This requires removal of the airbox, battery and the battery box as the slave cylinder sits on the top of the transmission. (See Pelican Technical Article: Engine and Transmission Mount Replacement for more info). Once you have removed all of these components, the slave cylinder is accessible from the top of the transmission.

Disconnect the hydraulic line from the cylinder by pushing back the retaining clip where the feed line fits into the cylinder. Now carefully pry the fitting out of the top of the slave cylinder. Make sure that you have a drip pan to catch the fluid that will leak out. Keep in mind that there is a small rubber nipple that fits over the end of the feed line that can get stuck inside the slave cylinder. You will want to carefully pick this out of the cylinder and re-fit it back on to the feed line. Remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the cylinder to the transmission. The slave cylinder will come right off.

Installing the new slave cylinder is a bit tricky. In order to bleed the system, you will need to compress the slave cylinder fully prior to hooking up the hydraulic line. The slave cylinder is normally compressed by the huge amount of force on the clutch pressure plate. The pressure plate exerts force on the throwout arm, which in turn presses against the slave cylinder's piston. Now, when you press the clutch pedal, the hydraulic pressure exerted against the throwout arm is greater than the force of the pressure plate holding it back. Thus, the pressure plate moves, disengages the clutch plate from the flywheel of the engine and allows you to shift the gears.

With the slave cylinder arm fully extended, there is an air pocket in the circuit that cannot be bled out. With the arm compressed, it eliminates the pocket and allows bleeding. BMW specifies a special tool for fully compressing the slave cylinder. I was able to construct a suitable tool using a 2 arm General Motors steering wheel puller available at any auto parts store. The key is to use two long 10mm bolts with nuts on the backside. It will take a bit of effort to compress the cylinder while threading the nuts on.

Reconnect the hydraulic line the new slave cylinder. It simply pops in. Again, make sure that you have the small rubber nipple fitted to the end of the hydraulic line, or you will have a huge puddle of brake fluid all over the garage floor the first time you step on the pedal. (Ask me how I know this, grr...) Let the slave cylinder hang for while we move on to the master cylinder. When the slave cylinder is detached from the transmission, you should not press the clutch pedal. This could cause damage to the slave cylinder.

Now move up to the brake fluid reservoir, unscrew the cap and remove the electrical connection going to the brake fluid level sensor on the right hand side. Just underneath is a feed line that sits higher than the lines going to the brakes. This is the feed line for the master cylinder. Now, removing the slave cylinder first should have drained the reservoir to just underneath the feed line. If not, use a turkey baster or a syringe to remove enough fluid from under the feed line. This leaves enough fluid in the system so that air does not enter the brake lines, but prevents fluid from leaking out once you remove the clutch master cylinder.

Move into the driver's side footwell and remove the lower bolster panel by prying it off along the top edge and carefully remove it. Disconnect the switch to the Aux. driving lights if they are installed on your car.

Removing the master cylinder is a pretty straightforward procedure, although it is a pretty tight fit under the dash. The first step is to locate the clutch pedal arm. The master cylinder is held to this arm with a black plastic pivot bolt. On the right side of this bolt are two 'ears' that lock it in place. You will need to compress the ears to push the bolt out. The problem is that you can't get a regular pair of needle-nose pliers in between the clutch arm and the side of the car. I used a pair of 90 degree offset pliers to compress them, and then pushed the bolt out enough to grab it with a pair of pliers.

Now remove the clutch safety switch from the master cylinder. This is the switch that prevents you from starting the car unless you push the clutch pedal in. Push it slightly towards the front and it will release. (See Figure 14).

There are two 10mm bolts that hold the master cylinder to the mounting bracket with two nuts on the other side. These can be a bit of a challenge to remove. You can do it one of two ways. One way is to pull the bolts to the left while loosening them. This will keep the nuts from turning as they will be locked in place by the grooves in both the bracket on the top and the casting on the bottom. The other method is to loosen the bolts enough to where the nuts emerge from the grooves. Then you would just need to counterhold the nut while you remove the bolt.

At this point, slide the master cylinder out of the clutch arm and pull it down from underneath the dash. The pressurized line going to the slave cylinder allows the connection to be rotated; however the black plastic feed line coming from the reservoir will seem too short to allow this. The feed line itself is longer than it appears. What you need to do is carefully pull the feed line out from the firewall. If you look up near the brake fluid reservoir, you'll see the extra length of line. Be careful when doing this and DO NOT pull it from the connection on the cylinder.

Next, place a towel under the cylinder to catch any brake fluid. Rotate the cylinder so you can access the retaining clip where the metal line goes in. Pry back the clip and detach the line. Remove the reservoir feed line by pulling it off the cylinder. Take note that there is a small o-ring on the inlet pipe. Make sure that the o-ring is not stuck inside the feed hose. If it is, remove it. On the back of the old cylinder is a 90 degree fitting. Remove this by prying back the retaining clip and pull it off, making sure that the o-rings are in good shape.

Now remove the plastic protective plugs from the new cylinder. Take the 90 degree fitting and pop the retaining clip back into the closed position. Pop the male connection into the new cylinder and pop the other end into the metal line under the dash. Now take the feed line and press it onto the feed inlet until it stops.

Rotate the master cylinder back into position up under the dash. You may want to have a helper pull the feed line back through the firewall up near the reservoir to prevent it from getting kinked. Also, don't forget to plug the connection for the fluid level sensor back in

Now bolt the master cylinder back into place. Getting the nuts started on the back of these bolts can be a little difficult due to the space in there, but make sure that they seat correctly in the grooves in both the casting and the bracket. Next, reattach the clutch safety switch, and line up the clutch arm with the cylinder and drive the pivot bolt back in. Put the bolster panel back on and move on to the fluid reservoir. Fill it to between the MAX and MIN marks.

The system now needs to be bled. I like to use the Motive Products Power Bleeder (available from PelicanParts.com) for this task. For more information on using the Power Bleeder, see Project 50 on Bleeding Brakes. Attach the power bleeder to the top of the master cylinder reservoir and pump up the pressure in the bleeder. NOTE: DO NOT exceed 1 bar (14psi) doing so can damage the seals in the clutch hydraulic system. When the slave cylinder is detached from the transmission, you should not press the clutch pedal. This could damage the slave cylinder. Move to underneath the car and attach your bleeder hose to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Let the system bleed out until no more bubbles appear.

Now remove the steering wheel puller from the clutch slave cylinder. As you remove the puller, the piston will move outward, which will also draw more fluid into the cylinder. Check the reservoir level and add fluid as needed. The end of the clutch cylinder piston has a domed end which fits into the throwout arm coming out of the transmission. Carefully fit the slave cylinder into the mounting bracket on the transmission and make sure the domed end fits into the dished end on the arm. Once in place, thread the mounting bolts back in and torque them to 24Nm (18ft/lbs.)

R50 Cooper: The slave cylinder is a bit more difficult to replace on the R50 Cooper models. This requires removal of the airbox, battery and the battery box as the slave cylinder sits on the top of the transmission. (Please refer to our article on Transmission mount removal for more info). Once you have removed all of these components, the slave cylinder is accessible from the top of the transmission. Bleeding the slave cylinder uses the same procedure as on the Cooper S.

When finished, remove the bleeder system, lower the car, and try the clutch again. The pedal should have a good feel to it, and the clutch should engage normally. If you are still having problems, recheck that the system is completely bled of air.

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder on the R55/R56/R57 cars is similar to the R50/R52/R53 models, except that you do not need to pre-bleed the unit by compressing the cylinder. Also, the bleeder port has been changed to a plastic valve that is much easier to open and close. When pressure bleeding, open the bleeder valve and keep it open until all air bubbles have been bled from the system. Once the fluid coming out of the cylinder is free of air, close the bleeder valve.

Now disconnect the power bleeder and slowly press the clutch pedal down fully 10 times. Check the fluid reservoir and add fluid as needed. If the clutch pedal still seems spongy at this point, reconnect the power bleeder and open the clutch bleeder valve again, allowing any additional air to escape.

Hot tip

Use a two arm steering wheel puller to compress the slave.

Wayne R. Dempsey, Co-Founder & DIY Expert

//

Project Photos

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Figure 1 Shown here are a new clutch master and slave cylinder for the MINI Cooper S. It's recommended that you replace both at the same time as replacing just one tends to increase wear on the other, causing it to fail. As always, Pelican parts can supply you with both.
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Figure 2 Remove the splash shield under the front of the engine and locate the clutch slave cylinder. It is mounted on the front of the transmission.
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Figure 3 Use a flat head screwdriver to push the clutch hydraulic line retaining clip back
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Figure 4 Carefully remove the clutch hydraulic line from the slave cylinder.
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Figure 5 Place a drain pan under the line as all of the brake fluid drains out of the hydraulic circuit.
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Figure 6 Installing the new slave cylinder is a bit tricky. In order to bleed the system, you will need to compress the slave cylinder fully. BMW specifies a special tool for this job, however I was able to construct a tool using a two arm GM steering wheel puller and some extra long nuts and bolts from the local hardware store.
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Figure 7 Unscrew the cap for the brake fluid reservoir and disconnect the plug going to the brake fluid level sensor.
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Figure 8 You will want to use either a turkey baster or a syringe to remove enough brake fluid so that the level is just below the green line drawn on the brake fluid reservoir in the picture. This leaves enough fluid in the system so that air does not enter the brake lines, but prevents fluid from leaking out once you remove the clutch master cylinder.
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Figure 9 Remove the driver's side lower bolster panel by prying it off along the top edge and carefully remove it. Disconnect the switch to the Aux. driving lights if they are installed on your car.
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Figure 10 This picture shows the various connections that hold the clutch master cylinder in place. 1. the two 10mm bolts securing the master cylinder in place (green arrows), the clutch safety switch (red arrow), the pressure line to the slave cylinder (purple arrow), and the plastic pivot bolt that mechanically connects the master cylinder to the clutch pedal (yellow arrow)
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Figure 11 Remove the plastic pivot bolt by pressing the two ears together on the left hand side of the clutch pedal arm as shown by the green arrow then press it out in the direction shown by the yellow arrow.
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Figure 12 Shown here is the plastic pivot bolt coming out the other side of the clutch pedal arm. (green arrow) This bolt can be a bit difficult to remove as there isn't a lot of room to work with.
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Figure 13 Once the bolt starts to emerge from the other side, grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it all the way out.
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Figure 14 Next, remove the clutch safety switch from the side of the master cylinder.
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Figure 15 Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the master cylinder to the car. Keep in mind that the bolts in the picture have nuts attached to the rear that will spin freely once loose, so you will need to reach up and manually remove them.
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Figure 16 Here is a shot of the clutch master cylinder viewed from the other side. You can see the nuts on the back of each mounting bolt (green arrows) remove the nuts from the bolts and set both aside.
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Figure 17 With both bolts removed, maneuver the master cylinder down from under the dash. The black plastic clutch feed line is longer than it appears. Most of it is on the other side of the firewall near the brake fluid reservoir. You can gently pull this extra length of line through the firewall to help lower the cylinder down and out.
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Figure 18 Place a towel under the clutch master cylinder to catch any brake fluid still in the system. Remove the clutch feed line by simply pulling it off the cylinder. Be sure to check the o-ring on the inlet is in good shape. Then, press back the retaining clip on the pressure line going to the slave cylinder and pull out the line. Also, if you haven't already, transfer the 90 degree fitting from the old cylinder onto the new cylinder. (green arrow)
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Figure 19 You may find it helpful to have a helper pull the feed line back out through the firewall while you place the clutch master cylinder back up in place underneath the dash.
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Figure 20 With the clutch master cylinder re-installed, attach a power bleeder to the brake reservoir and pressurize the system. It is important not to exceed 1 bar or 14psi as this can damage the seals in the clutch hydraulics while bleeding.
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Figure 21 With the steering wheel puller still compressing the slave cylinder, attach a hose to the bleeder valve. Open the bleeder screw and let the system bleed until there are no more air bubbles coming out. It's also important to keep an eye on the reservoir level. If the level drops below the clutch feed line, you'll have to start bleeding all over again. You may also need to have a helper quickly push down and pull back on the clutch pedal to remove all the air from the circuit. Just remember NOT to push the clutch pedal without the slave cylinder compressed or not installed on the transmission. You risk blowing the seals on the cylinder.
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Figure 22 Now remove the steering wheel puller from the clutch slave cylinder. As you remove the puller, the piston will move outward, which will also draw more fluid into the cylinder. Check the reservoir level and add fluid as needed. The end of the clutch cylinder piston has a domed end which fits into the throwout arm coming out of the transmission. Carefully fit the slave cylinder into the mounting bracket on the transmission and make sure the domed end fits into the dished end on the arm. Once in place, thread the mounting bolts back in and torque them to 24Nm (18ft/lbs.)
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Figure 23 Shown here is the clutch slave cylinder for the R50 Cooper models with a 5 speed transmission. The procedure for bleeding the cylinder is the same as on the Cooper S. The difference here is that the slave cylinder is mounted on top of the transmission. Once you have access to the cylinder, remove the two 10mm bolts holding it in place (green arrows) and disconnect the fluid lines.
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Figure 24 Here is the same steering wheel puller rigged up to compress the slave cylinder on the R50 MINI Cooper.
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Figure 25 This picture shows the clutch slave cylinder on the later R55/R56/R57 models. The procedure for changing the cylinder is the same as the R50/R52/R53 cars, the only difference being that the bleeder valve on the cylinder is a plastic valve that is much easier to open and close (green arrow).

Comments and Suggestions

Mario

November 30, 2023

Hello Pelican/Nick. Million thanks for your DIY articles, they are a treasure. After spirited R53 driving, the clutch becomes soft as butter. I can still engage gears normally. Could this be a slave cylinder fault also connected to "boiling" hydraulic fluids from the brakes?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If it returns to normal, it could be a fluid heat issue. If it doesn't return, clutch hydraulics or pressure plate. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Christian

September 16, 2023

Hi there, I'm currently replacing the master cylinder on a 2003 Mini Cooper S and replacement went fine, however, the connection to the line that leads to the fluid reservoir is leaking. I double checked, and even reinstalled, the connection between the master and the line and everything appears normal. I even tried putting a clamp on it to see if that would eliminate the leak. Also, it only starts leaking when the pedal is pressed. I've tried looking up possible solutions throughout the Internet but I haven't found anything that could be of use. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this problem?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I would assume the line is faulty, or the master is defective. I would install the old one to see if the line fits and seals. If it does, the new master is defective. - Nick at Pelican Parts

mininewby

August 16, 2023

i recently purchased my 05’ R53 mini, i had a difficult time with finding the sweet spot on clutch at first, but figured it out within a week. i was coming down the mountain, when shifting from 1st to 2nd then to 3rd it shifted very hard. when I got to the stop light it stalled out, I had to completely cut the car off and back on. Then it was ok, until after my son football practice and it would engage in to R but not 1st, then first but it wouldnt engage in 2,3,4, &5 then it wouldnt even enage except in R…

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

This sounds like shifter cables. If the gears aren't grinding and clutch engagement feels ok, inspect the shift cables. With your vehicle info handy, give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Freddmc

August 5, 2023

I have a 2002 mini that will not shift properly..Also the clutch chatters when engaging..I watched a video showing the replacement of the slave cylinder where it said there should be leakage around the cylinder .I don't have any leakage.
Could it be something else?

Thx.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Should be no hydraulic leakage at the slave or master. You could have a worn clutch or shifter cables. - Nick at Pelican Parts

P-Cooper

February 20, 2023

removing a master clutch cylinder in a 2017 mini

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it. If you check the forums, someone may have shared photos there of the procedure. https://forums.pelicanparts.com / - Nick at Pelican Parts

Matthew

February 19, 2023

Hi, mini r56,
Slave and master cylinders are fine but fluid is leaking and clutch pedal is soft and lacking pressure.
Under the car looks like the line feeding the slave cylinder has been rubbing against the half-shaft and that is where the fluid is releasing.
Question, is changing this line bmw part number 21526863945 an easy task? Is this failure a common problem? Any recommendations on securing the line away from the drive shaft once it is changed?
Thanks..

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It isn't a terribly difficult procedure. If it was rubbing, it must be damaged or misrouted. Just route it correctly, use the shape of the line to see how it fits best. With your vehicle info handy, give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Greg

February 13, 2023

I have a 2011 R56. Clutch operates just fine, but am having difficulty starting unless i press the clutch extremely hard. figured it was a faulty switch, so I replaced the safety switch, but no change. car will start if i put a ton of pressure on the pedal. No floor mats in the way or other obstructions. cruise control works fine. car shifts just fine, all other clutch behaviors seem normal. I've owned the car since new and it has 150K miles on it. any suggestions, or maybe a faulty replacement switch and I should order another?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The clutch master may be failing, not activating the switch at the correct moment. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Joe In Ireland

January 29, 2023

hi all mini countryman cooper sd r60 Wife out in car and on start up at shops clutch pedal go to floor as normal but doesn't come up. Using foot below pedal its raised back to top position, second attempt to start doesnt happen since pedal stuck at top position and no engine start due to clutch safety switch. Car towed home. covers removed and master and slave visual inspection ok no signs of leaks. Resevoir level ok. Engine hand turning ok and no clanky noises via screwdriver in flywheel ring gear via bellhousing bottom cut out. bleed tube opened but no pedal move and no fluid out. seen youtube "horror" video of broken clutch thrust bearing lever. Couldnt find diagram of master insides to figure if parts could break/jam to lock master in top position. any thoughts would be appreciated before i start opening hydraulic joints. Thanks

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I would confirm the slave is moving the clutch fork. If it is, it could be internal to trans clutch parts. Most common are the hydraulic parts. - Nick at Pelican Parts

18 Cottonwoods

September 11, 2022

HOW DO I GET RESISTANCE BACK IN CLUTCH PEDAL?

2006 non-S Mini Cooper R50 clutch slave cylinder 2004-2006 #6820 FTE 20 LR 02 BMW 67646 91 DE. The issue: initially soft pedal. 1st, and reverse grinds shift is difficult.

After "one-person bleed/pump pedal 5-10x, and hold" process was repeated for two hours, pedal suddenly no longer returned. Each time to force out air bubbles the cracked bleed valve would audibly "groan" and flow fluid into plastic tube. Now pedal is flat to floor with no return/ no resistance. Clear Dot 4 fluid, no bubbles in plastic tube and bottle. Wood brace overnight on depressed pedal no result.

Next day, tried the "pull up, open bleed valve, push down, close bleed valve, SLOWLY raise pedal, repeat" process with no results. Clear fluid, no bubbles.

My aluminum slave cylinder differs from the compressible earlier or later plastic versions, so no Youtube videos or specific technical articles cover bleeding, power bleeding, or replacement if necessary.

Lastly, I removed the 13mm slave mount bolts loosening the cylinder to examine for any leak or piston misalignment I will be concerned about eventual proper reinsertion but see no apparent problems. Also, all lines look dry and secure. No puddles or leaks, but bottom of oil pan/transmission behind cylinder has dirt/oil build-up from slow oil drain or bleed valve drip?

Master cylinder shows no evidence of leak. Reservoir has always remained full. Previously self-bled clutch/brakes in 2019 and did then observe yellow fluid drips in snow.

Next, I will try the oil can method/plastic tube in order to pump fluid from the bottom through the bleed valve pushing any air bubbles up and out into reservoir which makes sense; failing that then perhaps I will purchase a power bleeder to push air out from the top down.

But it seems essential to get some pedal resistance back, somehow! Or replace either or both cylinders.
HOW DO I GET RESISTANCE BACK IN CLUTCH PEDAL?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If you over pump a clutch master when bleeding, it can cause seal failure. The most you want to cycle the pedal is a single time when creating pressure to push the air out. Begin by feeding fluid from the slave to master, then bleed, press down and hold, open bleeder, close bleeder, repeat. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Splod

July 26, 2022

I recently had a clutch issue where the gears were getting harder to select and reverse would grind. I assumed hydraulics and then bought a new slave and master cylinder from Pelican, along with a power bleeder. I installed as per this excellent article but then had the dreaded bleeding hassles.

I followed all instructions and bled normally with the power bleeder, reverse bled from the slave, gravity bled, and finally used the 2x4 piece of wood. I manufactured the said specialty tool to compress the slave. The 2x4 method worked basically holds the clutch pedal in overnight - closed system.

However after about 10 minutes of driving the problem returns with gears harder to engage and reverse starts to grind. Another 10 minutes and the gears can only be engaged by rev matching and reverse is a no go unless I turn the car off and then select reverse.

I again hold the clutch pedal in overnight and it works the next morning, but as before, only for about 10 minutes of driving. I can do this without opening/bleeding the system at all. I have then bled the system again and the result is always the same.

The only thing I can think of is the master cylinder must be allowing fluid to bypass back to the reservoir instead of to the slave. Is it possible to this happen to a new master?

I have not passed 0.75 bar on the power bleeder as I had read the dangers of exceeding 1 bar. There are no fluid leaks at all, slave or master. Re-bleeding the system works for the same 10 minutes of driving but each time I do bleed the system there are NO bubbles exiting so I assume the first few bleeds were successful and no air is making it's way back into the system. I thought maybe it sucked air back in on the return stroke if a seal/o-ring was suspect

One thing I have noticed is the clutch pedal bump stop rubber is missing. Could it possibly be that it is allowing too much movement of the master piston, maybe allowing the seals to move past a valve inside the master cylinder?

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
The car is a November 2003 MINI R50 Right Hand Drive 1.6l with the metal rod and clip from the clutch pedal as opposed to the plastic clutch master cylinder pin the Left Hand Drive models seem to have.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The bump stop could cause it to bottom out, which could damage a seal if it hits the end too hard. If all hydraulics were replaced, I would check if the throw of the slave is increasing when the issue appears. It might be a worn clutch pressure plate. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Evan V

July 25, 2022

I have a 2006 Mini Cooper S, the clutch pedal is acting dead. Goes to floor with ease and won't return. I replaced the slave cylinder and bleed it as show..., didn't change a thing. Could it be the master cylinder? I noticed my fluid reservoir has a hole on the top side of it, new one is on its way.
I can have someone roll me fast enough I can get it in 1st and drive, clutch just won't release.
Any help is appreciated!!
Evan

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The master is likely faulty. If it passes a pressure test, the clutch pressure plate or disc is worn. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mark

May 19, 2022

TIP: During re-assembly of the cylinder to reservoir line, insert the rubber 'washer' into the line and then push the cylinder feed port in. I've seen a couple of comments about this, and was struggling myself

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Rob

January 10, 2022

Just replaced the dual maps flywheel, clutch kit, and throw out bearing. Everything seems to work fine except if I press the clutch pedal to the floor I can hear what sounds like the flywheel grinding. Drives fine and shifts fine as long as I do it before pedal reaches the floor. Any ideas what would cause this?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Could be the fingers on the pressure plate rubbing. Remove the starter and look into the bell housing for signs of rubbing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

cpe

August 14, 2021

Hi I replaced slave cylinder, compressed as per advise, loosend the bleeder on the slave. Using the power bleeder I think I applied too much pressure and now there is a very large pool of brake fluid on the ground drivers side and an empty power bleeder. Can u suggest the part I may have broken due to excessive pressure? 2002 mini r50 cooper RHD.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Could be anything if pressure was too high. I would suggest filling system and looking for the source of the leak. I would be guessing at it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

John

August 2, 2021

I was out shopping and when i got into the car and started it the clutch pedal didnt come back up and the brake was making a wooshing noise feeling looser than usual. When i tried pulling it back up it made a bad grinding noise. and when i shut off the car both clutch and brake pedal went stiff,
This is on a 2012 mini cooper s.Any help would be appreciated.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Check if the hydraulic fluid is low. Possible you have a leak. If not, inspect the brake booster and attached vacuum hose. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Minijim

June 20, 2021

I have a ‘17 model and the clutch has a very short engagement. When shifting gears, the gear fully engages when the pedal is pushed just off the floor. There pedal need to be pushed a long way down before before disengaging. Is there any adjustment to lengthen the engagement or do I need to replace parts?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Possible your slave or master is worn out and has allowed some air to enter the system. If bleeding it repairs the issue, replace the slave and master. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Wod

February 7, 2021

When bleeding using the two person method, its normal for the pedal to become stuck the floor and have to manually pull it back up? Is this likely to damage the seals?

I ask because I'm not having much luck getting air out of the system completely, replaced the master cylinder and can confirm I have no leaks at all and I have air free fluid flowing from the slave infact I passed around a full clean 500ml worth to be certain. It does sound like air in the master cylinder

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

That can happen, yes. be gentle and only push down one time, then open bleeder, repeat. If pumped, the piston can be damaged. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Davis81

January 15, 2021

Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and throw out bearing on my R60. Once I got it all back together the pedal was really soft. I assumed that during the install process I damaged the slave cylinder. With the car off the ground It went into gear with the car running and was able to go into all gears and wheels moved with no issue. Popped the slave off again and there was fluid in the pushrod boot, now will no longer go into gear when the car is running. So I assume it’s the slave cylinder. I am not sure how to go about bleeding the slave. Do I have to compress the slave in a jig first and connect the feed line or can I just install the new slave and hook everything up and bleed it like a normal slave cylinder?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

No, when bleeding, use a pressure bleeder to send fluid from the slave to the master. Then, once free from air, close bleeder and bleed from top. Press clutch pedal, open bleeder, close bleeder, release pedal. Repeat until bled. Do not pump the clutch master, as it can damage the piston. - Nick at Pelican Parts

StevieB_GT

December 29, 2020

This doesn't seem to have been covered by anyone else. I've just replaced the clutch and the hose to the slave was rotten so have replaced it with a braided line. The braided line is going from the slave all the way to the master cylinder. When trying to bleed the clutch, I'm getting so far until the connection at the master jumps out. Do the metal clips need pushed in at the sides to lock them into the hose fitting? And is the fitting at the master cylinder the same as the one near the bulkhead as it could be that the braided line is meant to attach there instead?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Is it a factory part? If it is a modification, the machining may not fit well enough to your vehicle. With your vehicle info handy, give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Kevin

December 18, 2020

Just replaced the slave cylinder in my 2005 Mini Cooper S. When attempting to bleed using the above instructions with the Power Bleeder, mostly air came out of bleeder after multiple attempts. Replaced master cylinder and same result and now there is no action from the pedal. Any suggestions on what I am doing wrong or what else could cause this much air to come out of bleeder?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

With such a short throw on the pistons, it is tough to bleed. Try bleeding from the slave side up, using your power bleeder. Do not pump the pedal, keep it up and untouched. Once air is removed. Try normal bleeding by holding pedal, opening bleeder. Work gently, do not pump the clutch pedal or push too hard. They are easy to damage. - Nick at Pelican Parts

2012 R60

November 15, 2020

Does the R60 slave require compression to bleed, or can it be done with the piston extended and a pressure/power bleeder? What torque spec for the slave mounting nuts? Could you write an article for the R60, or explain the differences from the above procedure?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Bleed it as you would any slave cylinder. I find it can help to compress the slave at times when bleeding to remove air bubbles. We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mike

August 20, 2020

I don't understand the tip that people have talked about where you use a 2x4 to hold the clutch pedal down overnight. Apparently it gets rid of any remaining air. But where does the air go? Do you do it with the bleed valve open? Thank you.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I have no experience with that method. I generally bleed the standard way. - Nick at Pelican Parts

perfectdaze

July 12, 2020

I have the R50 mini one, the slave cylinder is below the Battery box what a pain I replaced both cylinders, bleeding was a nightmare and after many tries, I placed the slave cylinder on its end without compressing, bleed nipple uppermost tapped a few times, then I pressure bled, it worked, air bubbles oozed out, I hope the helps somebody!

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Colby

May 23, 2020

If anyone is doing this job on an R56, just know that you cannot easily replace the master. You must remove the entire dash, or bore a hole in the fender and approach the pivot pin from the outside of the car, and then re-weld the hole in the fender or replace the entire fender. This article conveniently leaves that out.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

dragabed

February 6, 2020

i have a 2007 mini cooper hatch diesel,drove it home no probs 20 mins later would not start on button or go into gear clutch goes half way down then tits a brick wall if i press very very seriously hard the engine will start but will not go in any gear, goes in all gears when engine off and parked. any ideas and solutions,thank s dragabed

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Sounds like the clutch has failed. If the pedal is jammed, the pressure plate may have failed. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Max

October 12, 2019

Hello Pelican staff, so I was stuck up in the mountains in crawling traffic not stop and go trafficfor about 2 hours in my 02 Cooper S. Eventually my clutch started smelling bad but it held up. I was in first the entire time. I would slowly engage and disengage the clutch. Now my car vibrates and pulls to the left when Im off the gas, worst when coasting around 30 mph, but runs fine and straight when accelerating. Shifts fine, runs fine and brakes fine. does this sound like a clutch component issue ? Im thinking maybe the tranny got so hot, the wheels got hot and may be in need of rebalancing. thoughts ?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Sounds like the clutch is worn out or has overheated the flywheel and caused glazing and hotspots. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Ryan

September 13, 2019

So, I have an 06 MCS. Haven't really noticed b/c it's been like the frog in boil water. However, it seems as though the clutch is a bit stiffer that it SHOULD be. Doesn't pop out of gear, get stuck in gear or slip. Just a stiff clutch pedal.

My question...What's the problem? Clutch master cylinder or clutch itself?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

hard to say. You can monitor the clutch slave to see if it is moving. If not, the master and slave my need replacing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Joe

July 14, 2019

When performing the bleed with the clutch pedal depressed over night, do you leave the slave cylinder bleed screw open or closed?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I have no experience with this method, I haven't found anything extra needed over a standard bleed. - Nick at Pelican Parts

David

April 29, 2019

Having trouble getting my clutch to engage. Seems like Pressure Plate requires a LOT of movement to move the plate, so I ordered a new one. Other issue is that it doesn't look like the slave cylinder gets fully extended. I've bled it twice with a pressure bleeder precisely as you recommended, and the second time I had no air come out. Could the master cylinder be faulty if the slave doesn't fully extend?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes, the master can fail to produce enough pressure. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Jazz625

April 24, 2019

I'm hoping you can help.
I just bought a 2007 Cooper. Gears and clutch work fine, no slip, no difficulty in selecting gears, and pedal travel feels precise and normal.

But. It does seem a bit on the heavy side, and driving around town can give my calf a bit of a workout.

Is this typical of Minis? I have read some comments that seem to suggest this is the case Or should I be looking at the master/slave cylinders as mentioned in this article.

This is my first Mini. Car has 60k on the clock.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Should not be difficult to shift. Possible an adjustment for you with the new vehicle, or the master / clutch is failing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Dirty Bird

August 7, 2018

Just replaced the clutch slave and master cylinder using your step by step instructions in my 2005 R52 Cooper S. After pressure bleeding the system with the Motive Products system I still had a soft clutch pedal. Used the overnight 2x4 method a piece of wood in between the seat base and peddle to keep the peddle depressed and problem solved. Thanks for the great support and tech tips on your site.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

2012R60S

February 13, 2018

Hello I just replaced the slave cylinder on my R60S. I occasionally have issues with engaging the gear especially when the car is cold. When I press the clutch and have the gear in and cold start I get a small car jerk. Then the gears feel hard to engage, but once things warm up everything works flawless. So I'm thinking there's still air in the system. I bled the fluid per the instructions here, but instead of using a power bleeder I pumped the fluid from the bleeder on the slave cylinder using a pistol pump oiler. I read that it works great cause your helping rise the bubbles up where they want to go! I'd like to bleed it again do I need to take the slave cylinder out again compress and bleed? I'm afraid to keep taking it out and compressing it as it might compromise the seals.

Thanks!

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Try to bleed it from the slave toward the master, using a pressure bleeder. That should do it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Oz

January 10, 2018

This is how the system works - The clutch operates using brake fluid. It draws off the brake fluid reservoir via a black tube on the side. Fluid flows from the reservoir into the cylinder above the clutch pedal when there is a negative pressure. Then when the pedal is pushed the pedal cylinder pushes fluid through the tube into the clutch slave cylinder which activates the clutch. The clutch slave cylinder is attached to the transmission on the front, lower, left side. It is a black plastic cylinder that has the bleed valve. Look under the driver side head light a little inboard. When there is air in the system simply pumping the clutch does not prime the system. It just moves a little fluid back and forth. And pumping until your arm falls off will not do anything.

Step 1 Attach a clear 3-foot tube to the bleed valve. Keep the tube elevated to keep air out. Place other end in a plastic bottle to catch fluid. Note: The clutch slave cylinder is after the bleed valve and therefore difficult to remove air. The method described here will allow you to push fluid into the clutch slave cylinder.

Step 2 Pull the pedal up, open bleed screw, push pedal to the floor, tighten bleed screw. Then very slowly pull clutch pedal up. This allows the fluid to flow into the petal from the brake fluid reservoir. Repeat the process up, open, floor, close, pull up slowly. You should see a mixture of air and fluid flowing into the tube. Keep repeating 5-10 times until the fluid flowing in the tube is void of bubbles. Note: Make sure that the brake fluid in the reservoir remains above the clutch passage.

Step 3 With the bleed valve off you should start to feel resistance when you pump the clutch pedal. If the pedal is soft you have air in the clutch slave cylinder or a leak in the system noted by a brake fluid puddle.

Step 4 Prime the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure the clear 3-foot tube that is attached to the to the bleed valve is still filled with fluid. Empty out the last 4" from the end. Clean the end with a lint free towel and soap and water. be careful not to get anything into the tube.

Step 5 Blow into the tube or attach a small pump to push fluid back into clutch slave cylinder. Try to push at least 2 feet of fluid back into the system. But stop before emptying the tube. Then close the bleed screw. be very careful not to get any fluid into your mouth

Step 6 With the bleed valve off pump the clutch pedal. You should feel close to normal resistance at the top of the pedal.

Step 7 Clear any air that you pushed out of the slave cylinder by repeating Step 2 a couple of times up, open, floor, close, pull up slowly. Stop when you have pushed out more fluid than you blew back in.

Step 8 With the bleed valve off pump the clutch pedal. You should feel normal resistance at the top of the pedal. If not you may need to repeat the process. This works for me the first time.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for sharing your repair process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Tag1260

December 5, 2017

Is it necessary to remove the slave cylinder just to do a fluid flush?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

No. - Nick at Pelican Parts

James D

July 17, 2017

2010 MCS I drove it home on Friday and parked it. On Sunday evening I get in it to go to work, start it up and it won't go into gear, any gear. OK, then I turn it off and work the shifter and it goes into all gears no problem. So I start it up again and try to get it into gear and again, nothing. I turn it off again and place it in reverse and start the car up, whereupon it stays in gear and lurches backwards. I am able to control it and back it out of the driveway and put it into first gear, and it goes in very easily. I take it around the block to see how it will do before committing to my 45 minute drive to work. Almost 3/4 of the way around the block, it refuses to go into any gear and I coast it home and park it. Does this sound like a master or slave cylinder issue? Fluid level is fine and I cannot see any leaking around either of the cylinders. Clutch was replacedoing about 2 two years 20,000 miles ago. About 3-4 months ago I was having a difficult time getting the transmission to go into 1, 3, and 5 gears. I lubricated the shifter and it didn't really help but it slowly got easier shifting into those gears so I thought maybe it just need some time for the lube to work it's way in. Now I am thinking that was just the early stages of WHT is going on now. What fo you guys think?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Best bet, press the clutch pedal, watch the salve cylinder. Is there any movement? if not, the hydraulic system is faulty, replace the master and slave. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Miguel

March 12, 2017

I have a 2007 Mini Cooper S Hatchback Manual. I cannot start the car because I cannot fully depress the clutch pedal. My son tells me that just prior to that happening he sprayed WD40 oil in the bolt of the pedal since it was making a squeaky noise. Just after that is when the problem occurred. Could it be the master cylinder, the starter lock switch, or what? I appreciate your comment. I plan to work on it myself.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Check if the clutch switch is at fault. See this article for location and removing: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI_R56/102-ELEC-Brake_Light_Switch_Clutch_Switch_Replacement/102-ELEC-Brake_Light_Switch_Clutch_Switch_Replacement.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts

jrhea

December 30, 2016

Nick,
I'm finally getting around to replacing my slave cylinder that appears to be leaking at the fitting. This will be the third slave in 235K. Prior to replacing the slave are there any sources that just sell the O-ring?

Also for anyone having problems getting the air out of the line after replacing the slave, as a last resort I pumped the clutch peddle several times and while holding it to the floor I wedged a piece of wood in between the seat base and peddle to keep the peddle depressed. Let the car sit overnight with the peddle to the floor and the next day had a perfect working clutch.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

O-ring for the slave? I don't think so. Thanks for the tip on bleeding. - Nick at Pelican Parts

dtferg4

December 19, 2016

Car became hard to shift into gears after a clutch replacement. Replaced clutch slave cylinder, didn't fix it. Then replaced clutch master cylinder, didn't fix it. Bled each time multiple times using different methods. There doesn't seem to be any air in the lines but I can pump the pedal a few times and it shifts better or flawlessly. I am out of ideas, there doesn't seem to be any leaks, and I have tried every option of bleeding except power bleeding. It has gotten way better than it's worst, however, still is not completely fixed and leaves the car unable to be driven.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

When you press the clutch pedal the first time, does the slave cylinder move an appropriate amount? - Nick at Pelican Parts

giants9595

November 19, 2016

Got this done today. Thank you for the detailed write up. A couple things to note:

On my late year 2006 MCS the plastic pivot bolt was different. There was a gold retaining clip on the left side that needs to be popped off and then the cylinder just slides right off the post.

To get the output line off remove the metal retaining clip completely and then use a small set of vice grips to compress the plastic fitting and then slide the tube out.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

giants9595

October 31, 2016

Any tips for replacing just the master cylinder? Do I need a power bleeder?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

You don't have to have a power bleeder. Just remove and replace, reconnect the line and bleed. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Fir3Chi3f

September 14, 2016

Howdy Pelican! Like dizzyxclown, I'm having a bit of trouble with the feed line on the master cylinder. It took a lot of force to get off and now it doesn't go on the new cylinder very well. I can't tell if I'm simply incapable of giving it enough force or somethings gone wrong with the line itself. Long time fan of your articles and you've always given me great service!

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Can you share photos of the line, the old master cylinder nipple? Your line looks wrong, it should side into the master.- Nick at Pelican Parts

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jmac

September 2, 2016

After changing the trans oil in my wifes car it would not fully engage gears. Now it seems as if it is stuck in neutral. I can start the car and put it in gear and release the clutch and the car doesn't stall, but the pedal returns and doesn't stay at the floor. I don't think it is the clutch but wouldn't the pedal stay at the floor if the slave were gone

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Pedal may not stay on floor, there may be enough line pressure to help it return. - Nick at Pelican Parts

tj

March 11, 2016

I have a 2005 MINI Cooper S. Clutch was slipping, so replaced disc, plate, and release bearing with Luk Kit. Also replaced shift cables. Everything worked great for less than a week. Then shifting became stiff and then impossible to change gears with engine running. Traced the problem to the clutch not disengaging. Replaced slave and master cylinder and that didn't solve the problem. Have bled the system using the method described above. Any possible fixes I should try that don't involve getting back inside the transmission?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If the hydraulics are working, I would assume something inside it faulty. No way around inspecting those items. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Chris

March 10, 2016

Im having issues removing the splash guard to check the master cylinder. The bolts are slightly rusty, but when I try to turn they just spin and do not remove?

Any idea's?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Try grabbing the back side with needle-nose vise grips. If you can't, you will have to break it and replace the parts. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts

2seven

January 7, 2016

I have a 2006 R53 & recently had clutch assembly, flywheel & master/slave cylinders replaced by my mechanic. The clutch now engages abruptly & very late about an inch before full release of the pedal. Could there be too much pressure in the master cylinder? Mechanic suggested I learn to shift without fully pressing the pedal, or add air to the master cylinder.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Something sounds wrong with the install or possible defective parts. First, confirm the parts installed do fit your vehicle, use the part numbers to confirm. If the parts are correct, there may be air in the clutch hydraulic system. - Nick at Pelican Parts

MiniGuru

December 1, 2015

Two helpful tips on replacing the slave cylinder on a R53.
I attached a photo showing how to compress it using zip ties. It took several try's but once I compressed and pulled the ties it worked perfect.

VERY IMPORTANT: If you're having trouble bleeding the air out of the system after replacing the Master or Slave, after I tried every type of bleeder system on the market and didn't have luck with the peddle pump and hold method....I turned it over to nature. I cut a piece of wood and wedged it between the seat rail and the peddle, which held it to the floor. Let it sit like that for 24 hours. The next day gave it 3 or 4 pumps with my foot and had working system free of air.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. - Nick at Pelican Parts

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BADGER

November 13, 2015

IVE JUST FITTED A NEW CLUTCH AND ON BLEEDING IT WITH AN ELETRTRONIC BLEEDER IT WAS OK WITH PRESSURE ON.BUT AS SOON AS I TURNED OF PRESSURE I LOSE THE PEDAL AGAIN.TRYED NEW SLAVE AND MASTER CYCLINDER.CA ANYONE HELP ME PLEASE.02 MINI COOPER S

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The slave cylinder probably isn't being bled. Use your bleeding tool, once the system is air free, try to manually bleed the system. Help the slave extend by pushing the clutch fork, this may help. - Nick at Pelican Parts

RUIV

November 12, 2015

....this is RUIV again:forgot to say I bleeded the clutch and no air boobles .

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

RUIV

November 12, 2015

2002 mini cooper-s:sometimes problems to get the first gear...I had to move the car a little in second,stop and then the first will go easy.Advised to get a new slave clutch and the boot on old one when pushed,a lot of oil came out.With new one on I can put gears when the car is off.Soon I turn the key and start the car ,can't get any gears.Can you give me your opinion and advice?Thank you very much.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The hydraulic system may need to be bled again. The slave cylinder probably isn't being bled. Use your bleeding tool, once the system is air free, try to manually bleed the system. Help the slave extend by pushing the clutch fork, this may help. - Nick at Pelican Parts

IonPhoenix

November 3, 2015

Thank you for commenting on Ted's post. I own a 2008 mini s turbo, and man is it hard to get info related to that year. Every online help refers to 06 or older. My clutch pedal fell to the floor suddenly, and following the sparse trail of online breadcrumbs lead me to slave cylinder replacement. I had to order the thing online, as all local parts places kept giving me the 06 and older slave, in a box marked for 08. Anyway, was wondering if there was a way to pre-compress it, and your answer just saved the day. Going to install part in a couple of days. Wish me luck.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Brian

October 26, 2015

Is there a way to bleed the system without a pressure bleeder?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes. you can gravity bleed it first. Then, use the clutch pedal while helping the slave cylinder push the clutch fork. Repeat until bled.- Nick at Pelican Parts

G-T

October 7, 2015

If the clutch pedal becomes rough during driving with hot engine and in summer days and stay rough even depressing it with engine off but with no brake fluid loss it's a hydraulic problem slave-master cylinders, a clutch kit mechanical issue or simply the pedal bushing?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I would assume it is a mechanical issue with the clutch itself. - Nick at Pelican Parts

scratchyhead

July 18, 2015

Its finally back on the road. We replaced the slave and master cylinder, pressure bled the system, still wouldn't go into gear. Left it overnight with a piece of wood between seat and pedal holding clutch firmly to floor while contemplating best place to buy clutch from. This morning got in to finally try and its perfecto... best its been. The wood trick saved the day. Im so happy

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the follow up and for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. - Nick at Pelican Parts

scratchyhead

July 12, 2015

Could you tell me how far the lever that attaches to the clutch moves when depressing the clutch pedal. Mine moves about 1"and doesn't disengage the clutch even after replacing the slave cylinder. Does it point towards a new clutch or a new master cylinder. I would really find it helpful if i know how far over its supposed to go.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It won't move much more than that, due to the stroke of slave piston. You may have air the system or a faulty clutch. if moving, most likely a faulty clutch. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mark

July 4, 2015

OK I have a 2007 Mini S 6 speed manual, so the other day while driving home the AC got really hot, and the check light came on, which then followed to me having to pull over and couldnt drive anymore. So when I looked under hood i saw that that serpentine belt was shredded on one side, so i took to mechanic to have it replaced but now states it wasn't the belt. There was no leakage and states the car starts perfectly fine. But when you try and place in gear it kicks and doesnt want to go. What could be the problem, please help. Thank You

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

What fault code is stored? Are all the drive pulleys OK? - Nick at Pelican Parts

JR

June 11, 2015

Hello,
I have a 2007 cooper hardtop R56.
Shifting gears is working just fine but the clutch feels quite hard. When caught in traffic it starts getting painful to operate the clutch pedal after a while. Could this be related to a worn clutch slave cylinder?
Thank you

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Could be if the slave is not fully extending. Check the hydraulic system for leaks and operation. - Nick at Pelican Parts

steve

May 23, 2015

After replacing my clutch slave on 2003 mini cooper s, the brakes are really hard and don't seems to be working. Is the next step to replace the master brake cylinder, or can it be the clutch slave cylinder isn't bleed correctly?

Thanks

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Check if the brake booster is getting sufficient vacuum. It may have been disrupted during the clutch work. - Nick at Pelican Parts

logan

May 10, 2015

Cruise control on my r53 no longer works. I've heard that this could be related to the clutch safety switch. Should this be the first thing I try? Thanks!

PS I accidentally posted this on the inner ball joint page a bit ago. Sorry about that.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

hard to say. It could be the issue. You can check it to see if the signal is faulty, before replacing it. However, checking the DME for fault codes and monitoring the cruise inputs is also a good place to start. - Nick at Pelican Parts

bryan

March 31, 2015

2004 mini manual..car drove perfectly fine. I parked it in the drive then agent back outside to start abd the pedal went to the floor and stayed. Also got a squealing noise..I replaced the leaky slave cylinder and bled it.. my pedal is spongy and car won't go into gear at all. The arm going into the transmission the arm the slave cylinder moves is a bit sloppy going into the top of the transmission. Any ideas?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I would try bleeding the system again. It is common to have to bleed it multiple times. Also, be sure the slave is in good condition. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Daniel

March 23, 2015

2004 Mini S, replace my clutch assembly. Now shifting gears requires significant force, and the peddle is fully pressed down. How can I adjust the peddle up so that I have more travel? Bleed the lines?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

There are no adjustments. Possible the system needs bleeding or something is faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts

HelpMePlease

February 25, 2015

Replaced master and slave separately. On one occasion, after bleeding and letting it sit with pedal pressed all night, I could get it in gear but clutch engagement was still very low. The next morning I was back to not being able to get it in gear at all. Mechanic said the arm coming out of the transmission shouldn't move at all by hand and he's able to pull it out by hand a little after the pedal is depressed. Is this normal? Pedal feel seems ok. Slave plunger is moving probably 1.5" or more but no clutch release to allow gear change.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

That is likely due to the slave not fully engaging the lever. There is likely air trapped inthe system. - Nick at Pelican Parts

FixItPlease

February 19, 2015

R53 - replaced slave cylinder after noticing fluid coming from around the boot. We've bled it several times as instructed with plunger compressed. We've also bled it installed from the bottom up with the oil can technique. Nothing we do gives us a usable clutch. Still goes to the floor and barely actuates the clutch. Do we just keep bleeding? Is this an air bubble symptom?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

You may have a faulty master cylinder, as it sounds like you tried all methods. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Tylerfullerton

February 19, 2015

After I bleed the slave cylinder it doesn't want to hold the pressure I put on it from the clutch pedal, the second I press it it shoots out the tube connected to the slave cylinder, made sure I put the rubber nipple back on and everything...

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The line shoots out? The slave or line may be damaged. Inpspect the line groove where the clip sits. - Nick at Pelican Parts

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daughtershelper

February 15, 2015

After changing the clutch on a 2004 Mini Cooper and as far as the clutch is concerned everything was fine with that part of the car but now it is only running on 2 cylinders. It was suggested that I reset the ECU and I have completed that. The problem continues. Any suggestions? It has a P2300 Low Voltage on coil message.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Check voltage at the coil. You may have shorted or pinched wires during the repair. - Nick at Pelican Parts

eggsalad

February 13, 2015

So I replaced the slave and master clutch cylinders on my '12 countryman S All4. After bleeding, the clutch pedal feels very stiff, and when the engine is running and I press the clutch pedal there is a loud, metalic, "tang tang tang tang..." sound coming from the clutch area. I am out of ideas. Thoughts??

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The clutch fork may not be properly installed, or the throw-out bearing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Creasent81

February 4, 2015

I have an 03 Mini Cooper with the 5 speed. My wife had been driving it just fine the only previous issue was that you had to left off the clutch slightly to get it into reverse. She came to a stop off the highway started to go again and when she went to shift it into second the transmission went into gear, but it acts like its in neutral. Pedal feels Just like it did previously and the transmission shifts into gear easy. but its like there is no connection between the motor and tranny. Had to tow it home. any ideas what has happened?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The pressure plate or clutch disc may have failed. If it is in neutral all the time, there is no connection between the trans and the engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Zandy

November 29, 2014

"Followup from the Pelican Staff: It does sound like bad hydraulics. Check the fluid level. Then check if there are signs of fluid leaking at the master or slave cylinders. - Nick"

No visible leaks on my car. How do I check the fluid level on a 2003 mini?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It shares the reservoir with the brake master cylinder. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Princess allie

November 23, 2014

2005 mimi cooper s r50 super charged, the clutch is push completly to the floor. and i get nothting what would cause this problem

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Either a faulty master or slave cylinder. Or a faulty pressure plate. - Nick at Pelican Parts

zamfield

November 11, 2014

Changed to Valero clutch kit, replaced with used transmission and added new slave & master. Slave doesn't push arm enough to be able to change gears... bled it multiple times. Any ideas?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Double check the part number of the clutch you installed. It may be wrong. Also check if it looks like the slave is not extending far enough, You may have a faulty master or slave cylinder. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Yann

November 6, 2014

Just had a new clutch fitted on my 54 plate mcs convertible and now the pedal is firm initially then soft. It engages at the top of the pedal travel where the spring is strongest making it very hard to pull away smoothly. I tend to wheel spin or stall. The garage reckoned they did not need to bleed the assembly when fittin the clutch. Any ideas to smoothen out the pedal travel?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I would try to bleed the system, it does sound like air is trapped. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Chris

October 29, 2014

Are these symptom of a bad clutch cylinder?
1. Difficulty to engage and disengage into gear which results to screeching noise of gears.
2. Engine off, gears go in as nothing is wrong.
3. Clutch pedal needs to be depressed completely to the floor in order to gain a slight entry to engage or disengage a gear.

Which of the two , slave or master, is the culprit and how can it be identified one or both are bad? Vehicle is an R50.

Thank you for any insight provided and God bless.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It does sound like bad hydraulics. Check the fluid level. Then check if there are signs of fluid leaking at the master or slave cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Jay

October 22, 2014

Just some clarification. The car shifts and drives fine. You wouldn't know there was issue until I step on the clutch pedal. That's the only time you hear the loud screeching noise. I'm thinking bad throw out bearing. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Noise only there when you step on the clutch, likely the throwout bearing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

jay

October 21, 2014

i was at a light waiting for the light to change. Car all of a sudden wouldnt go into car. Car rolled forward a little and i was finally able to get car in gear. Was able to drive car to get home a few blocks away but now clutch makes loud screeching noise. Bad TO bearing? Car seems to shift and go into gear fine sitting at idle in parking space.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Shift fine running engine but not moving, noise only while driving? If the noise is always present, you could have a bad throw-out bearing or mechanical clutch component, disc or pressure plate failure.- Nick at Pelican Parts

CaptRick

October 15, 2014

If you can't get a good pedal after properly bleeding the clutch, like happened to me, try leaving it over night with the clutch pedal depressed with a stick. It works! Do it!

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the follow up and sharing your experience - Nick at Pelican Parts

lilo

September 14, 2014

I have a 51 plate mini cooper which wont go into flirst gear. It has had a new clutch and I've cleaned and oiled the linkage cables. Theres no hydrolic leaks on the clutch and it has been bled. What else could it be?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

What happens when you try to shift it into gear? Have yo tried to shift it at the transmission with the linkage off? - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mu

September 6, 2014

I have a 02 Mini Cooper s

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

got it, thanks - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mu

September 6, 2014

I did everything u guys said do with changing the slave and master!!! My car goes into gear while jacked up but will not go into gear while on the ground!!! What can still be the issue??? I bleed the system

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The wheels turn in the air, but not on the ground? Could be a worn clutch. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Pak man

August 25, 2014

I have a question guys, yesterday i try to get my car is a mini cooper s 2005 and the mechanics change the dual mass flywheel and all the clutch kit brand luk, i put it everything new, so yesteday when supose to pick it up i Look the shifter and move it and is so Washy is not somoth at all and the cables are not damage it all is that normal? O they make something bad.?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I would check the connections to the transmission. The feeling of the shifter should not have changed. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Bruce

August 22, 2014

Where can I find a replacement nipple for the slave cylinder hydraulic line? I managed to crimp the OEM one on the car; subsequently it developed a slow yet steady fluid leak...I can't find a parts diagram/supplier that illustrates the nipple.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If we can't get it for you, try a local brake caliper rebuilder, they may have assorted sizes you can try. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Elementary Penguin

August 22, 2014

I have an 04 S model with a leaky slave cylinder and a pedal that does not come up. More importantly, it went from making a low humming sound to a loud screeching sound. I can also smell something burning when I engage a gear. QUESTION: Are these symptoms indicative of a bad clutch as well as a slave cylinder? Or could the failure of the slave cylinder be the main culprit for the noises?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The leak ha to remedied, so this is faulty part. The noise and pedal issue could be a faulty clutch pressure plate. You can try to start with repairing the hydraulic issue and seeing if the clutch function returns. - Nick at Pelican Parts

scotty

August 21, 2014

Would a weak master or slave cylinder give a short throw to the clutch arm? I only get about 14.5mm of throw at the end of the arm. Is that enough to disengage the clutch completely? Shifting is notchy and clutch engages close to floor.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes, if the slave or master cannot hold the pressure needed to relieve the pressure plate, the clutch will not disengage. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Rocky

July 24, 2014

OK... Just replaced slave cyl... as i figured, the instructions here were spot on. Thanks for that! Bleeding was the hard part, i drew a blank. As I thought about it I figured that if if you remove the lines from the new unit, fill the resevoir cap it, push the pedal and fluid squirts out. Hold the the end of the line covering the hole with your thumb as a friend works the pedal. Repeat several times as you remove your thumb during depression and replace it during pull back. Immeadiately after depressing a 4th time insert the tube into the unit and clamp. Release the piston and then bleed as you would a brake caliper 2 person operation. Refill res as necessary depending on how many times you had to bleed. This worked great for me!

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

JB

July 14, 2014

02 MCS. I'm new to Minis, the clutch is very firm and I have to push the pedal to the floor to change gears. I'm used to a feather clutch VW Jetta where I barely touch the pedal to shift. Is this normal for Coopers or is it a sign of a hydraulic or clutch issue?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Depends, it could your perception of a hard pedal. I would have a shop look at it, they can offer some insight. - Nick at Pelican Parts

pgalla

July 5, 2014

Not sure if it is bad or not. Have an 03 Mini non S, it has been sitting un-driven for maybe 5 months. Had no problems with the clutch before parking. Now when I press in the clutch I here a whine. This is while running. It shifts just fine but the pedal feels spongy, more so than I remember. Any thoughts on problem?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If it sounds like bearing whine, it could the pilot or throwout bearing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

KAM

June 22, 2014

is it possible there is air in the system, needs bleeding?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If there is, it may have been introduced from a bad seal, which would require a part being replaced This would be evident from a low fluid reservoir. - Nick at Pelican Parts

KAM

June 22, 2014

06 Mini Cooper S, it can be very difficult to ship into 1st gear. This is inconsistent but if i pump the clutch pedal it shifts easier. The pedal is never soft. My fluid is topped off, no additional was needed. Could i have air in the lines? could it be a master cylinder or slave problem? I thought those would have a soft pedal.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Could be a master cylinder problem, I would check for signs of leaks at the master and slave. If the fluid is full, I don't think you will find a leak, you may have worn or weak part. - Nick at Pelican Parts

dizzyxclown

May 22, 2014

I just replaced the clutch master on my R50 and now it is leaking from the feeder line. Have I reconnected it wrong or can something be wrong with the little rubber grommet?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The line may be damaged or the seal. I would disassemble it and inspect each. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mr. FixIt

April 26, 2014

I replaced the slave cylinderfrom Pelican Partsand properly bled it. Now the clutch fork moves when the clutch pedal is pressed but the clutch does not disengage. I suspect my next move is inside the transmission. Seeking assurance before going further.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If the clutch hydraulic system is properly bled and still not disengaging, the clutch may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mr. FixIt

April 3, 2014

I have a 2002 Mini with 5 speed manual transmission. The clutch pedal went flat to the floor. Suspecting the problem to be the master cylinder, I have replaced it. Still no pedal. I have removed everything to get to the slave cylinder. I will be replacing the slave cylinder next. My question is how far should the clutch fork move? Mine does not seem to move much when I manually try to move it. Is this normal?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Not much. I would replace the slave and go from there. if the clutch was fine before, it is likely a hydraulic problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Cmstackx

February 17, 2014

What I mean is, is it possible to bleed it using the peddle with the slave cylinder still attached? And if it can't be bled with it still attached, do I have to remove the hydraulic line before I can compress the piston in or can I leave the hydraulic line attached while I compress the piston in with my Steering wheel tool?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

You can bleed the slave using the clutch pedal. As long as it is held all the way down, you can do it however you want. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Cmstackx

February 17, 2014

I have installed new clutch master and slave cylinders, I bought the Motive Power Bleeder and I'm still not getting the peddle I want. Is it possible to bleed the system with the slave cylinder attached? Also Can I compress the slaves piston in with it connected to the hydraulic line?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes, I have compressed slave cylinders before when they would not bleed. As pressure builds, it will become difficult to gold the slave compressed, allow it to push out onto the clutch fork. - Nick at Pelican Parts

josh m

February 12, 2014

my lines refuse to bleed. i replaced the slave and the feed line to it, my slave seal was shot. first i tried vacuum bleeding with no luck, then gave up and ordered the pressure bleeder. no luck, then i tried to use both at the same time, still nothing. im giving up and ordering the master cylinder. there has to be a mechanical issue going on. not loving it

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The master may be faulty, I would assume that if it will not build pressure to bleed. - Nick at Pelican Parts

josh m

February 11, 2014

in your instruction on connecting the slave cylinder you mention to make sure there is a small rubber nipple on the end of the hydraulic line. do you have a picture of this? i am almost positive there was not one on any of my old or new parts i replaced the slave and the line going to it

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The nipple may have been left off your vehicle during a prior repair. I believe you are referring to the dust cap. - Nick at Pelican Parts

knguyen

February 3, 2014

So the instructions on when you can press clutch when compressed is not valid?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I am not following the question. Can you restate it? - Nick at Pelican Parts

PeteHuws

January 26, 2014

Love your site, you have the most useful & user friendly information on the Web. Just a thought on the clutch bleeding. I was thinking of reverse bleeding by loosening the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, filling a plastic hand-help pump action oil can with brake fluid, connect the oil can hose to some tubing washer jet tubing and then over the clutch slave cylinder nipple then start pumping the fluid in this should then start flooding the slave cylinder body, brake line and thus chasing the air up the line into and out off the reservoir. I'll give this a try & report back.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. let us know how it works out. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mike

January 25, 2014

Hi, the main seal of my 2005 Mini Cooper S was just replaced by the local Mini dealer. Initially, they diagnosed the oil leak car has 16,000 miles on it as coming from the oil pan and it was replaced twice. I did a little research and urged the dealer to inspect the main seal, but they promised me that it was not the ms and finally after the second oil pan gasket replacement didn't fix the problem, they identified it as the ms leak. Needless to say that I have lost confidence in this dealer, but since it was a Mini dealer, I figured they were the experts. After a week at the shop, i went to pick up the car and the clutch had little resistance when pressed, very spongy I've owned six manual transmission cars before, so I notice the difference and nothing like it was when I dropped it off. I insisted that they fix it before I would come back to pick it up. They now are telling me that it is normal and that it will gain pressure over time. I think it's a bunch of b.s. and I have not picked up the car. I am not a mechanic, but I would think that the clutch should perform as it did prior to the main seal replacement. Any insights or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Mike

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I have to agree, the clutch change should not change. If they replaced the rear main seal, the transmission has to be removed. I would have them look into it, or maybe a different shop. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Ted

November 18, 2013

I have an '06 non-S and the slave cylinder looks nothing like the one in the pictures and is mounted into the transmission housing on the front of the car. Do you still need to compress the slave cylinder when bleeding? Thanks

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Does is look like the one in the attached photo? You don't have to compress it, you can also pressure bleed the system which works quite well.- Nick at Pelican Parts

tex kid

October 10, 2013

30year certified tech done clutch in all 4 days all ways can be done still no pedal conclusion this car is a joke no good with clutch pedal if owned it id burn it make a good bar bq pit wouldnt give a 1000.01 for junk

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

What is the vehicle? Did you replace the clutch master and slave? Is the system bled? - Nick at Pelican Parts

Chad

July 18, 2013

Can you not use a vacuum bleeder on the slave cylinder?
I ain't seem to suck fluid out from the line.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes, you can use a vacuum bleeder. I like to fill the reservoir, then open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed for a while. Then bleed the normally. If it gives me trouble bleeding I will usually pressure bleed it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

jcain

May 28, 2013

After learning the hard way, the clutch pedal should not be pressed under the following conditions.

When the slave cylinder is not attached to the transmission and movement is not damped by the clutch release arm. If the pedal is pressed under this condition the seals on the slave cylinder will be blown.

The clutch pedal should also not be pressed when the slave cylinder is compressed. If the clutch pedal is depressed under this condition the seals on the slave cylinder will be blown and or possibly the seals on the clutch master cylinder will be blown or the seals on the hydraulic lines connecting the master cylinder to the slave cylinder will be blown.

So when is it okay to press the clutch pedal? Only when the clutch slave cylinder is attached to the transmission and not compressed. In other words, only press the clutch pedal when the slave cylinder is in it's normal operating position.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes. The only time you should press the clutch pedal is when the slave cylinder is installed inthe vehicle. Otherwise you can damage the slave cylinder. - Nick at Pelican Parts

jcain

May 19, 2013

In the top part of the instructions you state " Also DO NOT press the clutch pedal with the slave cylinder compressed"

In the second part with pictures you state "Just remember NOT to push the clutch pedal without the slave cylinder compressed or not installed on the transmission."

These instructions are contradictory. Which one is it?

THanks,

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

When the salve cylinder is detached from the transmission, you should not press the clutch pedal. This could cause damage to the salve cylinder. - Nick at Pelican Parts

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