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Buyer's Guide: 924S/944/S/S2/951/968

Pelican Technical Article:

Buyer's Guide: 924S/944/S/S2/951/968

Michael Van Bibber


1-6 months






A fully equipped home garage with the Porsche specialty tools needed for the Porsche model you wind up purchasing

Applicable Models:

Porsche 924 (1977-82)
Porsche 924 Turbo (1980-82)
Porsche 944 (1983-89)
Porsche 944 S2 (1989-91)
Porsche 944 Turbo (1986-89)
Porsche 944S (1987-88)
Porsche 968 (1992-95)

Parts Required:

Whatever your used Porsche model winds up needing

Performance Gain:

Buy the Porsche model that you desire most

Complementary Modification:

Talk to other Porsche owners on the Pelican Parts forum before you make the buy decision

So you are thinking about buying a Porsche? If you take care before you buy, you will learn why the company motto during the 80's was "Nothing even comes close". The purpose of this article is to give some guidance to the prospective owner. While it is in no means all encompassing, and in no way a substitute for a mechanical inspection, it should give you a good baseline to start with. This article was written with the 944 in mind, but everything below applies to the 924S and the 968.

Picking your car:

The 944 series was produced in several variations from 1983 - 1991. The 944 replaced the 924 series, which ran from 1976 - 1982. The different versions are summarized below:

1983 - 1985-1 (Series 1)

2.5 Liter, 150 HP engine, 5 speed or automatic transmission. The easiest way to spot a series-1 car is the presence of a radio antenna on the fender. Also features the same interior as the 924.

1985-2 - 1986 (Series 2)

2.5 Liter, 150 HP engine, 5 speed or automatic. Car lightened by about 50 pounds, "classic" 944 interior, upgraded DME unit, power steering introduced.

1986 - 1988 (924S)

With a few exceptions, the car is mechanically identical to a 944 series-1 with a 924 body and interior. The philosophy behind this model was to reintroduce a Porsche with an MSRP less than $20,000.

1987 - 1988 (944 and 944S)

2.5 liter engine, horsepower slightly improved on the standard model, introduction of the 16-valve engine on the S model, S model up to 188 HP

1989 - 1991 (944 (1989 only) and 944S2 (1989 - 1991)

Standard 944 had a 16-valve, 2.7-liter engine; the S2 had a 3-liter engine. A Cabriolet version was introduced in 1989 (S2). 944 production ceased 1991.

1986 - 1989 (944 Turbo - a.k.a. 951 or 944T)

2.5 liter, 8-valve turbo charged engine. 1000 turbo charged S models were produced in 1988.

1992 - 1995 (968)

Designed to be the pinnacle of the 924/944 series. Mechanically it is an improved 944 S2 with a redesigned body which somewhat resembles the 928. 6 speed manual or optional Triptronic transmission. The 968 was not produced in large numbers. A few Turbo S models were produced (Rare), as well as 6 RS Turbo versions (None officially imported in the USA). The 968 was also available as a Cabriolet.

General buying tips:

First off, ask yourself, "Why am I buying this car, and what do I expect to get out of it?" If you are looking for a fun car, with fairly quick acceleration and excellent handling, any of the 944's will fit the bill.

Moving on to which model: Get the best one you can afford. Normally Aspirated (non-turbo) models generally run cheaper then the S models or the 951. You can expect to pay between $4,000 and $15,000 for a quality example. 968s are still new enough to command over $20,000. Do not fall in love and buy the first car that you see. Overall, the people who own these cars take excellent care of them. However, there are some that think nothing about spending $1000 on appearance and other goodies, and do little to maintain the car mechanically.

Although Porsches are fast cars, they were not designed to be drag racers. Though some in the series are quick off of the line (notably the 951 and the 968), the thrust of the design was superior handling, particularly at high speed. It is possible to modify the car to perform well from 0 - 60 and the ' mile, however, the costs are prohibitive and wear out engine components quickly.

To piggyback on the above, one important consideration to keep in mind is the relatively high cost of maintenance. Because it is a foreign car, and a rather affluent one at that, parts are more expensive than what you may be used to. Additionally, many mechanical procedures on the car are labor intensive. If you have an experienced Porsche mechanic work on your car, expect to pay between $65 - $90 per hour for labor. Therefore, it is not at all uncommon to take the car to the shop for relatively minor work and have a bill of more than $500 waiting for you. Cost of ownership can be greatly reduced by doing much of the maintenance yourself. Finally, I cannot stress this enough when you are looking to buy a Porsche: There is absolutely no substitute for a comprehensive inspection by a competent mechanic. If the car was not properly maintained, a $4 - $6,000 944 can turn into a $8 - $10,000 944 very quickly.

One final note on car values: Do not buy one with the intention that it will appreciate. Most of these cars were built in large quantities that preclude them from achieving true collector status. If you want a collector car in this series, look for one of the limited production cars and bring a large checkbook.

Picking Your Seller:

Any seller worth the trouble dealing with should have no qualms about providing you in advance, either by phone or fax/email: Pictures, copies of maintenance records, what scheduled maintenance is coming due, the phone number of the person who did the majority of the work on the car, and what small maintenance/repair items should be done. Avoid sellers that are vague about specified maintenance performed on the car, mechanical condition, physical condition of the interior and exterior, or what the car was used for, such as concours, daily driver, racing, etc.

Looking it over:

Ok, so now you are looking at the car, the current owner is there, extolling all the virtues of the car, trying to convince that his is simply the finest example left in the free world. News flash, it isn't, the finest example is at the museum in Stuttgart Germany, and it's not for sale. Here are a few things to look for on the car, take your time, and do not allow yourself to be rushed.


How does the car sit? On a stock US version, ground clearance between the rocker panel and the ground should be about 6 inches. If the car has been lowered to Euro specifications, you should have between 4.5 and 5 inches of clearance. Sagging at one corner/side of the car indicates incorrect ride HEIGHT or worn suspension components.

Paint: How does the paint look? Does it look like an orange peel? Is there paint on the rubber mirror and door handle seals? Does the paint on the outside of the car match the paint in the engine compartment or under the carpet/doorjambs? Are the stone-guard decals on the car, are they painted over? Is there a "Porsche" decal under the taillights? Is there a model emblem on the rear of the car? Does the color of the decal/emblem contrast with the paint; light colors have black decals and emblems, dark colors have silver. Any of the above strongly indicate that the car was painted. Since the cars are older, a paint job should not disqualify a car, but take the time to find out how the paint job was accomplished. A proper paint job would cost somewhere between $1500 - $3500, and entail media blasting; zinc-based primer, and several coats of paint, to include a clear coat. If the receipt is less than that, "Maaco" or some other discount auto paint facility probably did the work, and most likely, the paint was sprayed right over the original paint, expect it to crack.

Rust: All 944's were galvanized at the factory - if it is rusting, it was most likely in an accident or was maintained poorly. The only exception to this is the battery tray. This area is prone to corrosion due to original Porsche batteries leaking acid. It should be repaired since the rust will spread, and water will leak into the car.

Wheel Wells: Look for the black plastic liner, is it intact, is it even there? If not, it may have been removed in the course of body repair

Wheels: Look for curb rash or dents: When driving, does the car vibrate at speed? This could indicate a bent wheel. Porsche wheels are generally very expensive to replace; though you can sometimes pick up used ones cheaply. One note, many Porsche wheels are painted, don't confuse worn paint with physical damage. Do the wheels have wheel locks? Does the owner have the keys to the locks? The wheel locks that came with these models are no longer made. You can order key blanks from a few catalogs and have them cut. If you lose the keys, you must have the locks cut off. Porsche now sells a keyless wheel lock, costing about $75.

Bumpers: On the non-turbo models, is the front and rear bumper square to the rest of the body? If it is canted in on one side, the car was hit by something. This could entail nothing more than replacing a bumper shock, or could indicate hidden body damage. It is difficult to determine this on a turbo due to the car having a different nose and valence.

Alarm System: Is there a keyhole on the body behind the driver's door? Does the owner have a key for it? Porsche no longer sells keys for the system, though the dealer will be happy to sell you a new switch that comes with two keys for $150. If the owner has one key and you want to duplicate it, a Saab key will work.

Rear Hatch: For some reason, the hatch/glass is a problem area on these cars. They tend to leak. There are kits available to repair the leaks. Hatch replacement runs about $2000.

Under The Hood:

Look under the hood, is the engine clean? A steam-cleaned engine can indicate a well-maintained car or someone trying to hide an oil leak. Pull the dipstick, how does the oil look? Frothy oil indicates a head gasket leak. Run the oil through your fingers, it should be smooth with no grit.

Under-hood Insulation: This waffle-textured foam deteriorates with age, leaving your engine compartment a mess. About $100 to replace.

Belly Pan/Oil Pan:There should be a plastic pan under the engine. If it is there, run your finger on the upper surface; are there puddles of oil or other fluid? Check the oil pan. Does it have a huge dent on the bottom? This could indicate that the car was jacked up by the oil pan or the previous owner hit something. Oil pan replacement is rather expensive, with the part costing in the neighborhood of $500 and the labor running somewhere in the realm of 6 - 8 hours.

Oil Leaks:Do not accept the explanation "It's a Porsche, they always leak." That said, there are few places that the 2.5/2.7/3.0 engines do tend to leak, though generally, these leaks are small, and in most cases, you wouldn't know it was even leaking. So short answer, puddle under car, or belly pan swimming in oil/power steering fluid/coolant = bad thing.

Front main seal- can be replaced when you do a front seal job - this leak should be small and tends to run along the engine case.

Upper or Lower balance shaft rear O-ring - these leak very slowly, and the labor involved in replacing them is not worth the effort or expense unless you are doing other major work to the car. Generally, it is the lower balance shaft that leaks, as the heat from the exhaust tends to speed the wear of the O-ring.

Leaks that should make you think twice before buying:

Oil pan gasket: A real pain in the ass. In my area, getting this replaced costs around $600, $500 of which is labor.

Head gasket leaks: Labor intensive, special tools required. Depending on where it is leaking, secondary repairs might be necessary.

Oil cooler seals: if the coolant tank looks like someone spilled a chocolate malt in it - these are blown, the parts aren't that expensive, but the procedure is labor intensive.

Upper front engine seals: Particularly around the balance shafts and the cam and crank pulleys - oil can destroy the timing and balance shaft belts, which, if they break, will cause severe damage to the engine and your bank account. Look for oil dripping out of the timing belt cover.

Coolant Expansion Tank: Is it cracked, crazed, or warped? - The car may have overheated at some point in the past, which if bad enough, could warp or crack the head. Some yellowing of the tank is normal as it ages.

Belts: Check the condition of the belts. One note, belts on these cars tend to be exceptionally tight, with a maximum deflection of 2mm on the alternator belt, and 5 - 6mm on the power steering belt.

Alternator: Is the air duct from the driver's side front connected to the rear of the alternator? A supply of cool air greatly extends alternator life.

Tie Rods: Look for cracked boots and bent rods. Also, slide the boot on the steering rack side and look for leakage.

CV Joints: Squeeze the boots, look for cracks.

Transmission: Look for leaks. Additionally, look at the transmission fill and drain plugs that are located on the driver's side of the transmission. Are the drain plugs stripped out? Replacement plugs cost less than $5 each, getting the old ones out, especially if they are stripped, will raise your use of profanity to an art form. When you replace them, remember to only use 17 Ft-lbs. of torque

Brakes/Suspension: Look for evidence of leaks, either from the struts/shocks, brakes, or wheel hubs. On later models, the front brakes should have one fluid line and one wire running to the caliper, the rear brakes should have one fluid line, one wire, and one cable. Generally, the shocks/struts are durable, often lasting more than 100,000 miles; replacement, however, can be expensive

Brake Fluid Reservoir: Look for proper fluid level and evidence of leaks. Brake fluid should be changed every 12 - 24 months

Cooling Hoses: Look for Cracks, scuffing, or hoses that are spongy. Hoses are inexpensive to replace. If you have any doubt about the condition of the hoses, replace them.

Manual Steering: Make sure that it is indeed a manual steering rack, and not a power steering rack with the pump disconnected.

Power Steering: Look for leaks around the pulley and around the hose fittings, check the reservoir for proper fluid level. Note: Power steering hoses do tend to "seep" fluid, looking and feeling oily. Also, check to see if the car has the updated hose. The old version of the hose runs from the reservoir to the engine, where it is clamped near the water pump, and then down to the upper portion of the pump. The new version has the hose running directly from the reservoir to the pump.

Spark Plug Wires: Look for cracks in the insulation, or black streaks on the top of the engine around the wires. If possible, take the car into a garage or other dark area and start the engine. Does it look like the 4 thof July under the hood? Wires run anywhere from $60 - $300 depending on what you get. Factory wires run about $130.

Windshield Washers/Pump/Tank: The tanks tend to develop cracks and leak, while not expensive to replace, they can be a challenge to remove or install. Also, the washer pumps are prone to failure. If the tank doesn't leak, and the pump is working, but still no fluid is squirted out, either the nozzles are clogged, or the check valves are shot; neither of which are expensive.

944 85.5 or later (Series-2):

Ball Joints/Control Arms (a.k.a. A-Arms): The ball joint is not replaceable except by replacing the entire control arm ($200 - $500 each, replacing them in pairs is highly recommended) - look for cracked rubber boots and cracks or bends in the arm itself. When driving, a "pop" as you go over a bump is a good indicator of ball joint wear. Ball joint failure can cause all sorts of expensive secondary damage.

The Interior:

Give it the once over. Does it look good for its age? One word on dashboards - they crack. Invest in a good dash cover. You can order a new dashboard, but they are extremely expensive.

Smell: If the car smells like antifreeze, chances are good that the heater core is leaking. If the car is heavily perfumed, get down and smell the carpet. The smell of mold/mildew indicates a water leak somewhere.

Armrest/Cassette Box:The plastic hinge breaks eventually, costing about $25 to replace.

Tool Kit/Air Pump/Jack/Spare Tire: Does the car have these? Many times, they are missing; nobody really knows where all of these missing tool kits go. Very helpful to have in the car, and can be expensive to replace.

Clutch Pedal:Look for a leak around the rubber boot sticking out of the firewall. Drips or oil indicate the Clutch Master Cylinder is going bad, an easy fix. Check the pedal - it should be stiff with no "slack", meaning you feel resistance right away. If there is free play, the pedal needs adjustment, which is a simple do-it-yourself procedure. If the pedal feels spongy, the clutch master or slave cylinder is going bad, which fortunately, are not expensive to fix.

Parking Brake:Does it work? A properly adjusted parking brake should stop the car with the lever pulled 2 or 3 clicks. Otherwise, it needs adjustment or brake shoe replacement

On Engine Start:

Keys: Does the owner have original keys? Does the same key unlock the doors and start the engine? Are the keys worn? If you need different keys to unlock the doors and start the engine, either the door handles or the ignition was replaced. You will not have much luck going to K-Mart or Wal-Mart and buying a key blank that fits although sometimes, you can luck out and find a VW, Audi, or Saab key that will work. If your keys are worn, and your locks were never changed, you can, with proof of ownership, have a new set of keys made that match your car based on your VIN#. Porsche charges $36.00 per key, or $100 for a complete set.

Brakes:With the car off, pump the brake pedal until it firms up, then with your foot still on the brake pedal, start the car. If the pedal should sink slightly as the car started. Otherwise, the brake booster may be bad. A brake booster costs around $425, not including labor.

Motor Mounts:Does the car shake the fillings out of your teeth at idle? If so, the motor mounts are probably shot. Replacing them is not excessively expensive, but is labor-intensive.

AC system:Does it work? Porsche's are rumored not to have the best AC systems - actually, they have systems as good as any other car, but they are rather expensive to maintain, especially since the price of R-12 went up. So if it doesn't work, the owner didn't want, or couldn't afford to fix it.

Exhaust Leaks:The exhaust manifolds tend to crack with age. Replacement manifolds are not cheap. However, as long as the crack isn't gigantic, you can have it repaired by any competent welder for less than $100.

Steering Column Switches:A part that commonly fails. Parts cost anywhere from $30 - $200, not including labor.

Sunroof: Does it work? This can be an easy or expensive fix, depending on what is wrong.

The Test Drive:

The car should start up quickly. Did a cloud of black smoke or white smoke come billowing out? If so, the car either has bad rings, or a head gasket leak. 944s idle a little rough for about the first minute. After warm-up, the car should idle at 850 - 1000 RPM. Acceleration should be smooth, quick, with no hesitation or "flat spots". In a manual transmission, the shifting should be smooth, without grinding, which may indicate bad synchro rings. Neither should there be any clunking or clanking as you change gears. If there is, it could indicate a problem in the clutch or transmission. Groaning or popping noises while driving could indicate bad CV joints. A popping noise while going over bumps could indicate worn ball joints. On power steering equipped models, the steering should be tight, meaning that if you turn the wheel ' to ' inch, you should be moving in the direction the wheel was turned. Howling or other noises are indicative of problems. Brakes should be firm. Porsches do tend to be "stiffer" than most cars, thus being a little rougher over bumps. After the test drive, park the car in a different spot - let it sit for a few minutes and check again for leaks.

Maintenance Records:

By this stage in your shopping, you have probably read in the ads about a car having maintenance records. What are they? In short, a receipt OR a dealer stamp in the warranty book for every major bit of mechanical work done to the vehicle. If the seller doesn't have any, especially for the time when he owned the car, walk away.

Some critical things to look for in maintenance records

Timing Belt/Balance Shaft Belt:The most critical maintenance item on the car. A broken timing belt will destroy your valves, resulting in a very expensive repair bill. Replacement every 30,000 - 35,000 miles. Additionally, the belt should be re-tensioned 1000 miles after installation, and every 15,000 miles after that. Belt replacement costs about $300 with parts and labor. You can have the belts tensioned for less than $100. Special tools are required to tension the belts properly

Front Engine Seals: These deteriorate over time, causing small leaks. The downside to this is, oil can destroy your timing belt. The individual seals are inexpensive, less than $100 to replace all of them. However, the labor involved with installing new seals can be. Approximately 1 - 2 hours labor for the basic seals, 4 - 7 hours to replace the seals that are "deeper" in the engine

Clutch (Manual transmission):When was it replaced, if ever? Factory clutch disks are prone to and will fail eventually - $1200 to $1500 with parts and labor. If it was replaced, find out with what - a spring centered clutch disk is preferred, as they tend to last a very long time.

Flex Plate (Automatic transmission):It will fail eventually, costing about $1200 to replace with parts and labor.

Valve job:This is what happens when the timing and balance shaft belts are not maintained. Repairs start at $1200.

Water Pump:They wear out eventually, some last 50,000+ miles, some last 100,000 miles, it's really a toss up. If it was replaced find out with what version of the water pump (early, mid or late). Not a difficult thing to replace, but is labor intensive, with special tools required.

Oxygen sensor:Should be replaced every 40,000 - 60,000 miles - Not an expensive item, an easy do-it-yourself.

951 Series: All of the above plus:

Turbo Charger:When was it last serviced? Turbo chargers do wear out eventually, requiring rebuilding or replacement.

16 Valve Engines: All of the above plus...

Chain Tensioner:When was the camshaft chain tensioner last serviced? These tend to wear out over time, causing the chain to break, causing all sorts of valve damage.

968: All of the above plus...

Transmission:When were the pinion bearings last serviced? Pinion bearings on these cars tend to wear quickly. Parts are not that expensive. However, replacing them is a very labor-intensive process.

Flywheel (Manual Transmission Only):If the clutch was serviced, was the flywheel serviced or replaced as well? The 968 uses a "Dual Mass" flywheel, costing over $1000 for the part alone.

Sprockets/Pulleys:When was the cam sprockets/pulleys changed or updated? Early 968s had a habit of breaking sprocket/pulley teeth, as well as shearing teeth off of the belts.

The Pre-purchase Inspection:

If everything above checks out and you are seriously considering buying the car, take it to a dealer or a shop that has experience with Porsches and have it inspected - Again, THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR THIS. This will set you back a couple of hundred dollars, but the mechanic can find hidden damage or things that require repair much easier than you can. Any major discrepancies will be noted and can be used to either reduce the asking price of the car or indicate that you should walk away.

Now That You Own One:

Congratulations! If everything above checks out, you've just bought yourself a very fine automobile. Now that you are a Porsche owner, here are a few things you will need.

Insurance:If you can afford it, full coverage with comprehensive is your best bet. With the cost of parts and repairs, you will have no problems meeting a $500 deductible for collision. Keep your comprehensive coverage at a $100 - $200 deductible. Call around for the best rates.

Towing:You will break down eventually, get the number of a few towing places that pull the car up onto a flatbed truck as opposed to a regular tow truck. Your local Porsche mechanic will give you a point in the right direction.

Your Mechanic: Build a good relationship with a mechanic that knows Porsches. If you are skilled and have the tools, you can perform a lot of repair work yourself. However, there will be times that you need professional assistance. Be wary of a garage that claims to work on Porsches, yet doesn't have any in the shop. Ask owners in your area for a recommendation.

Scheduled Maintenance:Maintain your timing belt! Change your belts every 30,000 miles, and have them tensioned at 1,000 miles after replacement and at 15,000 miles. For a manual transmission, replace the fluid every time you change your timing belt. For automatics, change it at 15,000-mile intervals.

Oil Changes:If you live in a warmer climate, 15W40/50 or 20W50 are your best bet. Change your oil every 3000 miles with quality motor oil. You can get 10000 miles out of synthetic oil, but the filter should be changed every 3-4000 miles. You will save lots of money if you do this yourself. Most oil change places want to charge extra for the oil (non-standard grade) and an extra charge because you require more oil than normally allowed (5.8 qt. or more). Additionally, many oil change places will charge you a premium on the filter since they most likely do not have it in stock.

Fuel Filter:Change it every 6 - 10,000 miles. Most likely, you will not find one in an auto parts store. Online/Catalogs or your Porsche dealer is the best source.

Spare Parts:With the exception of items like filters, if you can help it, avoid getting parts from a dealer, as they have the highest prices. Some general parts you can get from local auto parts stores. Your best source for most parts is from one of the online/catalog companies. Shop around, prices vary between catalogs/sites. Ask other owners where they get their parts. Avoid getting critical components such as alternators from retail stores, they tend to be cheaply rebuilt, spend the extra cash and get a proper part.

Books:If you are going to do your own maintenance, you are going to need some books. First thing to buy is the "Haynes" manual. It is not all encompassing, but it will give you a good starting point when it comes to repairs. If you really get into maintenance, you can invest in the factory service manuals.

Electrical:If you do any electrical work, the ground wire is brown.

Tools:Buy quality tools! Though they are more expensive initially, over time you will appreciate the investment. A good selection of quality screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets will serve you for many years. Though I am not advocating one brand over the other, Sears "Craftsman" or Lowe's "Kobalt" tools offer excellent quality and a lifetime warranty while costing less than the "Professional" tools like Snap-On or Mac. Additionally, as stated above, some repairs require specialty tools. Generally, these tools are available through your Porsche dealer or from online/catalog companies.

Tool Listing:

12-point star drives (a.k.a. "triple square", "Cheesehead") 6, 8, and 12mm (Snap On, about $20 each)

Sockets - get 12 point sockets if you can. You need shallow and deep sockets, some extensions and a few universal joints. You will need sockets with sizes ranging from 4 - 30mm.

Wrenches - combination set, 8 - 30mm, you may find it helpful to get 2 of some of the common sizes (10, 13, 15, 17, and 19mm). A set of flare wrenches and a set of stubby wrenches are helpful and can be added later.

Assorted screwdrivers and pliers

Soft faced hammer and a rubber mallet

Torx driver set

Torque wrenches

Metric Allen sockets and wrenches sized from-3 - 20mm works well.

Snap Ring Pliers - internal and external, Snap-On seems to have the best set around. Get the regular straight ones as well as the ones with the 90-degree tips.

Brake Bleeding Kit

Specialty Tools:

Flywheel Lock

Porsche Belt Tensioning Tool (with calibration bar): The Holy Grail of 944 maintenance $300 - $500. You need this tool any time you remove the timing or balance shaft belt. This tool will pay for itself after you remove the belts 3 or 4 times

Porsche Balance Shaft Locking Bar: About $35 - $50

Porsche Belt Tension Adjusting Wrench: About $35 - $50

Optional: Thermostat tool - a snap ring holds in the thermostat, which is a pain in the ass to remove. Many catalogs sell this tool, calling it "the water pump helper" for about $25. You won't use it often, but when you need it, you really need it

Performance upgrades:

As stated earlier, Porsches are not drag racers. That said, there are a few upgrades you can do to squeeze some more horsepower out of the car without major or expensive modifications. Ask other owners and do some comparing.

Upgrading the ROM chip in the DME - Autothority chips seem to have the best reputation. Manufacturers claim this will give you up to 15 HP on a NA, more on a 951. This is much easier to accomplish on the series-2 cars, as the DME chip is removable. ($199 - $300)

Installing a better ignition system - This may or may not improve your horsepower, but will make the car run more efficiently. Kits from MSD or Jacobs are popular choices. ($150 - $400)

Changing to a K&N air filter - You can gain about 2 - 3 HP with this upgrade, as an added bonus, you will never buy another air filter again. ($60)

Upgrading your exhaust - Bursch, Borla, or Ansa are popular choices, Manufacturers claim anywhere from 10 - 30 HP gain. ($299 and up for the "Catback", an additional $299 and up for the headers)

Throttle Response Cam - No horsepower improvement, but you will get a quicker throttle response. ($50)

Porting your throttle body - increases airflow - supposedly provides increased HP, but I have yet to see any hard numbers. ($300)

Removing Catalytic Converter - Illegal in most states, but you can gain a few horsepower with a test pipe installed in its place.

Removing Balance Shaft Belt - 3 - 5 HP gain, at the expense of an engine with heavy vibration, accelerates the wear on the motor mounts.


Well, that's it, I hope you found this guide useful. If you think of anything else that I missed, please don't hesitate to let me know. Happy driving!

Michael Van Bibber (AFJuvat)

Comments and Suggestions:
Chuck Comments: Casey, it might sound stupid, but where is the speed sensor locate at? Thanks.
February 27, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe it is on the trans. It's the 3 pin connector which goes in the differential cover (from memory!) - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Chuck Comments: I have a 85 944na, I recently replaced the gears on the odometer, change the 3 bottom bulbs in the cluster, cleaned the contacts, and the odometer still doesn't work. What could be the problem?
February 26, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the Speedometer working?? Cool pic!! If not, it could be the sensor for the vehicle speed, if it is could be the printed circuit board is not allowing the voltage to get to the stepper motor for the ODO. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
scott Comments: considering buying a 1993 968 coupe tiptronic with 55,000 miles. What problem areas are there for this car that I should focus on before purchase?
August 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Rear window leaks, engine oil leaks, turbocharger issues, transmission bearing issues. I would have a pre-purchase inspection done on whatever you plan on buying.

- Nick at Pelican Parts
Bill Comments: Nick,

Thanks for your input. Do you have any recommendations on replacement plugs or connectors? Alternately, I can either solder or butt splice the leads.
September 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We should be able to put a kit together. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Bill Comments: Nick,
I traced my problem to a faulty BG plug. So the question is can I replace or repair the plug or will any change in impedance confuse the DEC. I learned that any signal that tells the DEC that the engine is turning less than 300 RPM will cause a fuel pump shutdown. Any ideas?
September 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm sure you can repair it if you use the right connector / terminals. That may be your best bet. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bill Comments: Sometimes my 944 will shut down while running, but will restart normally. I recently changed fuel pump, fuel pump relay, filters, injectors, plugs, dist. cap, rotor intake boot, vacuum lines, fuel pressure regulator. I have not yet changed the fuel flow damper. I have considered changing to another new fuel pump. The car also takes 3 - 4 seconds to start! Any ideas!
September 2, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hard to say. Could be a relay or sensor. You will have to see what is causing the stall. Spark, air or fuel. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
roxy Comments: how much would the cost of matinence be on a 1985 944 porche cost annually roughly?
February 5, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not sure. This is a good question for a local Porsche shop or our community.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Baying Comments: Bought 1998 boxter at 77,xx mileage. What should I do to keep the car in nice shape and will last long? Have driven the car about 500 miles. How to shift the speedo from kilometer to mile?
January 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Keep up with repairs, follow scheduled maintenance and keep the vehicle clean. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jerro Comments: I am so glad I got into this site ,it has so much infomation pricles .I own a924 turbo and I would like to fit a 2.5 out of a 944,but fuel system is eletronic,I do have the wiring out of the 944 and the problem of the engine mounting .Has any one done this before
November 30, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Mike Comments: Nick, thanks for your feedback. My timing belt was changed in 2007 41,000 miles. Now it's 2014 and my car has 50,000 miles. Based on your formula.. 900 miles/month = 10,800/year. Therefore there is roughly 76,000 miles on my timing belt 900 X 12 months X 7 years. I think it's time to change it.
October 24, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I prefer to keep rubber parts, especially hoses and belts refreshed. Those are the WORST when it comes to leaving you stranded. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: Great information....Thank you. I have a almost flawless 1986 Turbo with 50K miles that is maintained by a qualified and trusted mechanic. My only concern is that the car sits more than it is driven. Since it's not my daily drive, I running it less than 100 miles per month. Most of your advice revolves around mileage. I'm concerned about the car not being used enough. Any guidance on how to maintain an 944 Turbo that is rarely used or do I for mechanical longevity reasons, NEED to drive it more? I've been told by a few that a sitting 944 can be problematic.
October 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.

When a vehicle is not being driven, I go by months instead of mileage. Use 900 miles per month to determine intervals. Just keep the fluids fresh and an eye on rubber parts. Replace items as needed. - Nick at Pelican Parts
dr-wall Comments: Hi everyone,love the 944's from my early days. Miss it so much was looking on ebay and there is a 1991 Red/Grey S2 with only 6600 miles. This dealer has had it for over a year now. It looks beautiful but I bet it needs maintenance even with such low mileage. All the fluids, timing belt, cam shaft belt, and even water pump. Don't know if the seals are dried out or not.
A beautiful car but starting price is $26900 and buy it now is $33900. What do you think this car is actually worth taking maintenance into account?

August 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Oof, hard to say. I would start with the blue book value. Then go from condition. If worried, have a local Porsche shop look it over before you bid. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
944 WANTED Comments: I have an observation regarding the comparison of a 944 Porsche to a 911SC or earlier. I have owned a 944 8-Valve and a 911SC Targa. Both are nice cars and completely different due to their configuration with the engine being on the wrong side, and their weight distribution. I have not had the pleasure of performing a timing belt replacement on the 944 but I have had the pleasure of a 911SC wanting to great a wall with its A** end in a hairpin turn entering a highway - lol. Yes it was a thril and no damage incurred to the car or myself - glad i was stoned - lol. Anyway, the 944 handles really well and its tight around a corner and doesnt hop like a rabbit at high speed over expansion joints on hiway. Ive never had an S2 and would like to get an owners opinion. Just my 2 cents :
July 9, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
944WANTED Comments: Quick Question - I've heard that the S2 has a belt, cam-chain tensioner and small chain between the cams - true? and if thats the case is there a poly belt that will last a long time if I wish to change the timing belt in future vs the factory that was not perfect?
July 9, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here's a good discussion on the system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
944WANTED Comments: I found a clean 944S2 with work done to replace 8 of the valves on the top end; I suspect the cam chain belt let go and caused the problem. The car has had the cam chain work done as well as the timing belt, and clutch replaced. Question is how long can the car be driven in years/miles until the belts or chain addressed again? I really like this car and price of 8K seems a little high with 160K on it but the interior and dash are perfect. The only items that need attention are warm A/C air and small dent in quarter panel - please advise thank you
July 9, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe it is 80k mile intervals for replacement. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mysterious_Blue Comments: Hi, this article is awesome and covers everything analy to ensure a confident purchase! I will use this when looking for a guards red s2 with m030 option ;
July 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
The Porsche Kid Comments: Is this car even worth buying used even with all maintanence up to date? Seems to me like an unreliable headache and maintanence night mare on a car that is only worth 5,000 to $9,000 for a turbo. I own a 911sc and bought with 128k miles working cold ac, and very reliable. 88 944 turbo offered to me with 89k miles and according to my master Porsche tech and racer, owner asking $6,500 and he has been maintaining it for 7 years. I trust my mechanic, but all this reading online got having cold feet !!! I guess the 944 can be a car you will put in more money than it will ever be worth? I wonder if i should stick to my plan and purchase another early 911, but prices now are way up ! Hagerty has the 944 turbo going up in value since 2009. What do you think? Thx !
June 4, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would go for the early 911 myself. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
onrails Comments: Oops, forgot the pic.
May 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
onrails Comments: This is my third 944 in 20 years, this one an "S" I don't know when or if the trimming chain tensioner was or ever has been replaced. I've done the gasket and oil tube under it, the pad looked smooth, no crack, no grooves and color was oil yellow. Is there any way to tell if it has been done by looking at its characteristics verses a factory Porsche pad?
May 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not sure. I think once it has been in the engine for a while, it will be hard to determine who made it, (due to staining and wear). - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Burrito951 Comments: An opinion on timing/balance shaft belt tension.

I've just purchased my third turbo and sixth 944. I've done belts on all of them and used several for daily driving. My point of view on the timing/balance shaft belt change: I've never used the P9201 tool, and I've used a Kricket KR-1 once...on all the other cars I did the belts by hand and had no problems. The P9201 is complete overkill in my opinion. If you want to measure it, use the KR-1, but it seems unnecessary to pay a ludicrous price for an instrument that is far more sensitive than required. I'd bet the amount the belt stretches over its life even with retension or even during temperature cycles is more than the precision difference between the KR-1 and P9201.

You really just need to feel and twist a properly tensioned belt once. This is obviously my opinion, but it is one that stands to save 944 owners-many who, like myself, are not wealthy-a bunch of cash they could use to make improvements elsewhere.
May 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Made in Berlin Comments: Awesome article,wish I had seen it first... Naw I would have bought it any way once you drive it and contemplate the fun of driving it reality sets in in the form of many repairs. How much time is involved in clutch replacement for a 1989 base 944?
May 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'd say a day aside to do it. Really depends on your experience. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jimlam56 Comments: Thanks for the info. I just bought a 1986 944 Turbo, so I'm anxious to sort it out.
I'm blessed to be able to sort it out without having to DD it.Looking forward to Pelican Parts for my go to source for what I need to \ake it right.
May 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Michael Comments: Great information Thank you for sharing. I just bought a beautiful, stock 1986 944. The only downside is that it has an automatic transmission. It still is a joy to drive because of it's looks and handling. My question is this: Do the chip upgrades and other power enhancements you suggest still apply for an auto equipped model? I am just wondering if it would be worth it? Thank youl
April 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe there would be chips and performance software for your specific model. The gains would be similar. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tej944 Comments: Hope this article is still open. I am about to buy my first Porsche 944, an automatic. A friend of mine had a '87 NA manual back in 1994. I hadn't noticed them before that, but since seeing my friends 944, I've loved the style and finesse of the design, well until 1990 anyway. The rear is the same, but I like the front ends on the NA cars better than the turbos. And don't even get me started on the 968's! I've passed up many of decent 928, because of the looks, especially the front end. They basically took the best part of the 944 off and replaced it with the worst part of the 928. Well I don't exactly like the rear looks of the 928 either but the front are pretty ugly IMO. Sorry for the Rant.

This car is a beaut, and well worth the money from what I can tell. I talked to the owner after reading this article and from the convo, it sounds like he's kept it up pretty decently. Hoping I can do the same, as I recently hurt my back and am on disability.
February 5, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Learning Comments: Does the VIN in the windshield sometimes have AA's in it for America and ZZZ's in the VIN on the firewall under the hood for Europe?
October 10, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: As far as I know, the VINs should match throughout the vehicle. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
El Guero Comments: Very Informative and helpful! Thanks!!!
May 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
944seven Comments: Thanks for the article. It was very helpful. I have a 1987 944s with a 1990 s2 suspension, motor, and brakes and appreciate all the info!
April 10, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Bludemon Comments: Excellent write up. Just got a wild hair to go 944 shopping and found one. Hope to go look at it this weekend.

March 9, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
sax Comments: here is the bra from pelicans.........where else the rear fluid leak come from besides the transmission drain plugs and axle seals.....
March 5, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Axle seal fluid leaks? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
sax Comments: i just bought a 1984 944, already spend almost 100,000 bahts on it , and still have to do the clutch disc replacement and fix the fluid leak in the rear...not giving up now ,....question is can i just replace only the clutch discspring centered? where could the leak in the rear possibly come from?
February 27, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you're going in there, i would replace the entire assembly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Flashylance Comments: Thanks a ton for the info. I once bought and older 924 from a bank repo based on my love/dream of a Porsche and paid the price 10 fold. I was pretty discouraged for many years. I just purchased 10/2011 a 1989 S2 with 42K miles 1 owner car 99.8% flawless. I got to drive it for only a few hours before I put it in storage for the winter MN. I can't wait for spring to take it out and to a couple of show's. The info here is almost worth what I paid for the car. I will check this site often.
The car has a circular dent/indent in the exact same spot on both sides of the car. 1/2 way between the tires and in the middle of the rocker panel. Is that the "jack-point" indicator or was this car hit in the exact same spot on both sides? The paint/stone guard shows no sign of scratching?

Thanks for all the info..

February 8, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you share a photo? usually the jack points are obvious and would be on both sides of the vehicle. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bee_wd Comments: excellent post... just wish i had of read it prior to buying an 86 944 non-turbo s2
Just short of 75 clicks from home & a quick boot to work... 2 days later im replacing the cartriges shocks in the front strut / ball joints are shot & the control arm is not servicable.
Tranny is weeping front to back.

the initial investment dirt cheap maintaining & repairing for daily driver NOT :P

but its a porsche :P and it "OUTRIGHT ONWS'z"
January 19, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
sax Comments: i've got my silver 1984 porsche 944 home yesterday after been in a garage for 4 months...its all original ,the engine is in excellent condition....very beautiful car...after spending 100,000 bahts on it.......still needs to change clutch not backing out now..well nice car to drive..
November 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
wigguy1 Comments: I just bought an 84, 944 with a new interior, fiberglass European front end, new waterpump, upgraded cam, new belts and several other mods. The best part is, the seller owns a Porsche and racing shop and is the only one to work on it since it was new, plus a warrenty. It did 0 to 60 in 7.8 on acceleration alone, no power shifts and no burnout. This is better than my 924 turbo without being "pipey" on top and wimpy on the bottem. The 924 has died prompting the new purchase rather then a repair. I am going to work on the exhaust, put on an MSD ignition, and chip it. My question is, do these old cars have enough computer to allow a chip to work?
October 15, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Looks like 1985 is the first year for a chip: #item10 - Nick at Pelican Parts
Quinno Comments: Have a 1990 S2 coupe that has done less than 100K. Lovely car. Noticed that on changing down from 3rd to 2nd, I sometimes get a pronounced shudder through the car - seems to come from the transmission rather than the motor. Rev matching doesn't necessarily help. Any thoughts? By the way, anyone who can get their hands on a lok km 944 in good condition is really in for a treat. I've lusted over these cars since they were first released and I am not disappointed with any aspect of owning such a rare treat.
August 30, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does it seem like clutch chatter? You could have a glazed or overheated clutch. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
timabb Comments: Thanks for the excellent information. To be honest it's incredibly daunting to read your knowledge as a complete layman but I bought an '89 S2 in the UK yesterday and it goes in for a new cambelt and tensioner tomorrow. The tensioner was a problem I knew about when I bought it but I'm getting the belt changed at the same time as it hasn't been done from what I've gleaned from the paperwork for 40,000 miles which seems to be about the recommended renewal. Is there anything else that could seriously cost me money as a novice that I should look at?
Sounds naive but I've wanted a 944 for 26 years and although I haven't even driven it yet, I couldn't be happier......
August 10, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. Don't be discouraged by fear of repair cost. These are great cars and sometimes repairs sneak up on us. I would say browse our forums and check out some of the common issues.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
bigben Comments: Any advice for a new comer - someone is selling a 1989 944 S2 for $2500. That said, what I gather is he bought it, had it for 2 days and it stalled on him, and he doesn't want to bother with it any more. So my take away is that it is a '89 turbo that may not be running right now - he said it might be its not getting spark or fuel. Sight unseen, any thoughts? I was intending on looking at it with your check list, but I figured I get any advice I could prior to doing so. Thanks in advance.
July 21, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Use our check list of have a Porsche repair shop perform an inspection on the vehicle. Their expertise can help uncover problems or identify a solid vehicle. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
EJ Comments: iam looking to buy 1 for my first car and this is very helpful what to lokk for in the trouble areas.i have 3 of them to lok at 1 is a 1987 porsche 944 turbo $2,500 that does not run, and the other is a 1987 944s $2,500 and the last 1 is a 1985.5 porsche 944 $1,000 but in needs interior. but i want the turbo even tho it does not run wich 1 should i get
April 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Frankly, I wouldn't buy one unless you have another car to depend upon. These cars are very expensive to replace parts on, and they are not super reliable because people have typically not maintained them over the years. In particular a Turbo is very expensive. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jrboulder Comments: Don't forget about the rubber centered clutch!
It's only a 20 hour fix on the other hand...
January 9, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
MK EastCoast Comments: thanks I own a 944 and this information was helpful
November 13, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Steve Comments: Been there Done that! Great write up - have owned an '87 944 S for twenty years. Can emphasize enough on Porsche Mechanic inspection and the Cam belts, I have done them five times and on the fourth water pump. Awesome car 240K and going. Can't add much to this except to emphasize the maintenance records for the clutch, head gasket, front belts, oil cooler
and the suspension and CV joints - most these cars are nearing the Silver anniversary mark and the Suspensions cost big if they fail. I have been updating mine all along and it's expensive.
September 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
TT Comments: Great article. Just saved me from making a potential mistake on a low cost 87 base 944 with a questionable record. I am also looking at an 89 base model with a clean service history, but only 30k miles driven in 21 years. Can that be cause for concern on these cars when they don't get driven enough?
March 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sometimes sitting can be worse than higher mileage. Rubber and seals can dry out. As well as the overall condition of the body, where it was stored, etc. I would look the vehicle over carefully. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
CLay Comments: Thanks for the buyers tips. Very helpful. I'm looking at a 944 for sale in the morning. This really helps. Clay Sevier, Carencro, LA
March 4, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Herbie Comments: I have just purchased my first 994, it is a 1990 S2 Convertable. I picked up the car on Tuesday gone and drove it home. The has only covered a genuine 45,000. Having taking the car out of the garage yesterday for the first time to have a real good look around it, I have noticed, when looking at the rear end from a distance that one side is lower than the other. Having then measure height of each rear end to the top of the rear wheel arch on flat ground, the offside is 22mm lower than the nearside. Could any one give me an idea of what it could be, could it be as simple as a failed rear shocker?


February 21, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here's some info from the forums:

Measured from the level ground or floor surface to the upper edge of the bumper

Front; 526mm (+-20)
Rear; 522mm (+-20)

For rear adjustment on the 2 part spring brace you will see 2 bolts. Loosen the mounting bolt and then adjust the eccentric bolt to desired hight then retighten mounting bolt.

- Nick at Pelican Parts
zac Comments: Great write up. Thanks!

A classified ad I'm looking at covers many of the points you raise and also say "THE TORQUE TUBE AND TRANSAXLE HAVE THE TYPICAL 944, 968, WHIRLING SOUND. THIS IS A CHARACTERISTIC OF THE CAR." True?
December 7, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like it needs new bearings, which is not super-typical... - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Porsche Lover Comments: Thank you for this write-up. I have been a Porsche 944 admirer since they first came on the scene. I am SERIOUSLY considering purchasing one and this is exactly the kind of advice I need.
September 11, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
thorman944 Comments: I wish that I had read this prior to buying my first 944. Bear in mind that the following took place between 1999 and 2001 - prices have increased.

I purchased a 1987 944 base, not S or turbo 5speed with manual sunroof with 115k miles on the odometer. I thought I had a steal at $3500. I had an exhaust leak welded $45.00 and the A arms replaced about $450 for both if i remember correct to pass state inspection. Under $4000 to get a Porsche on the road. I was feeling great until about 4000 miles later when the synchro between 1st and 2nd went out. Still no big deal, the granny gearing in 1st isn't necessary even on a hill, I just started in 2nd gear while I saved up money for a transmision rebuild. 1000 miles later, I was stranded with a failed CV joint on one of the driveshafts. Luckily, I was able to find a great shop to rebuild the shaft and saved lots of money on the repairs. total including labor was about $200.

Then, my clutch went out about 3000 miles later. While the car was in the shop for the clutch, I decided to get some recommended work done. I had all upper engine seals replaced, along with a full valve job and new timing belt. All in all, this repair bill was $4200. So, by being uninformed and not reading this guide, my $3500 porsche cost me over $8400 within the first 8000 miles of usage and the synchro between 1st and 2nd hadn't even been addressed.

I would have been better off waiting another 6 months, saving another $2000 and spending $6k on a 944 with better maintenance records and in the end, I would have actually saved $2400 in the process AND had a better car.

One note to add to all prospective buyers: Always check your tire pressure on a regular basis and ensure you are not pennywise and dollarfoolish on your tires. I had a slow air leak that was supposedly repaired by a tire shop by replacing the valve. 2 days later, my 944 was going backward on I95 until it slammed into the concrete jersey wall. Tire pressure at the time of the accident was 8lbs. This was 2 days after having the tire 'repaired' by what I thought was a competent shop. These are Rear Wheel Drive cars with a decent power to weight ratio and even better gearing. They use relatively wide-profile tires considering the car's relative low weight. Too little air pressure in your tire will cause you to hydroplane easily and you run the risk of totalling your investment.
August 16, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
August 6, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not 100% sure, but I would estimate between 3-6 hours. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
carguy101 Comments: I would also add to this great write up about checking the clutch pedal. Have someone press the clutch pedal while you check the firewall from inside the engine compartment looking straight down to see if firewall moves. The welds tend to break and if it is neglected the firewall will snap and leave you stranded. It requires a plate to be placed from the firewall to the inner fenderif i recall correctly This also applies to 968's.
July 25, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
King Tut Comments: Awesome write-up! I have "historically" been a BMW and Volvo guy, but have begun considering a 944 for weekends and track. This is EXACTLY what I needed to be an informed shopper. Thanks a million!
May 6, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts

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