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Replacing Wheel Bearings on a 1986 930

Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing Wheel Bearings on a 1986 930

Neil Walker


4-5 hours






Floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, lug wrench, torque wrench (up to 230 ft.-lbs.), Sir Tools bearing remover master kit B90 with additions, large bearing splitter and puller, propane torch, 32mm socket, 8mm hex key with fitting for torque wrench, metric socket and metric wrench set, flathead and Phillips head screwdriver, electric drill and 5/8-inch drill bit, tape measure, wire hooks for hanging brake calipers, degreaser, workbench vise,

Applicable Models:

Porsche 930 Turbo (1986)

Parts Required:

Inner and outer bearings, inner and outer grease seals, grease, anti-seize

Performance Gain:

Your 930 rear wheel bearings will be brand new and will provide miles and miles of good service

Complementary Modification:

Replace the rear brake pads


  • Sir Tools Bearing Remove/Replacement Master Kit B90 with additions/modifications (May be available as a kit variant by now).
  • Large Bearing Splitter and Puller
  • High quality Slide Hammer Bearing Puller
  • Propane Torch
  • Torque wrench up to 230 ft lb
  • 32 mm socket
  • A quality 8mm hex wrench with fitting for torque wrench
  • Conventional small tools

Sir Tools modifications

  1. The studs on the 930 hub are longer than the standard 911 hub and interfere with the bridge piece of tool part # 3. It is necessary to drill a 5/8th inch hole on the centerline 2 5/16th inch from the center of the hole for the #1 bolt.
  2. The bearings for the 930 are NOT single piece cartridge bearings of the type the tool was designed for. They are a pair of conventional taper roller bearings similar to those used on the front wheel. Therefore an additional disc is required to press in the outer races of both bearings and press out the outer race of the inner bearing. They can be made from additionally purchased or spare adapter sleeves #9, 10, 11 or made by a local machine shop. The diameters should be;
  • Diameter for Removing/Installing disc for the outer race of the inner bearing should be 2.944 to 2.946 inches.

Disc should be of sufficient thickness to apply and distribute the forces necessary for a fairly big interference fit of race to housing.


For each wheel hub being overhauled

  • Inner and outer bearings
  • Inner and outer grease seals



  1. Loosen lug nuts, jack up rear of car and support on quality jack stands, remove wheel(s).
  2. Remove spacers.
  3. Remove brake calipers and hang from car using wire hooks or similar. DO NOT HANG BY BRAKE HOSES.
  4. Remove brake drum/disc.
  5. Remove split pin, retaining nut and washer from axle. This nut is TIGHT. I used a length of pipe to act as anti rotation and a big breaker bar.
  6. Remove socket head screws from gearbox end of axle.
  7. Remove axle, I found that I could remove the drivers side OK but had to undo lower shock bolt to get passenger side axle out.
  8. Using the SIR tool as in the instructions Figure A remove the drive shaft.
  9. Run the brake adjuster star wheel right in, remove the springs and remove parking brake shoes.
  10. Remove the brake activation linkage. That on my car was not per the book but once the brake shoes are out it is a simple linkage to remove and replace.
  11. Clean everything up as best you can using your favorite grease removal materials, both outside and inside of housing.
  12. Remove outer race of outer bearing (wheel side). Porsche says take off the swing arm and use a special tool in a bench press, not an option for most of us. With lots of care, a long drift a big hammer and some discomfort this can be done from under the car. My procedure is to use the propane torch to get the housing fairly hot, round about 250 degrees F and then use a large slide hammer puller to pull the outer bearing outer race. There is a considerable interference fit on this race and only a small lip to pull on. My car did not have cut outs in the housing shoulder for a three jaw puller so it takes a high quality puller to get the race out. I could not do it without heating the housing. If I had the arm off the car I would make cut outs for a more rugged 3 jaw puller. I used my tire pyrometer to make sure the housing did not get too hot.
  13. Remove the outer race of the inner bearing using the Sir Tool and the special extra disc.
  14. Clean everything thoroughly using your favorite methods.
  15. Now for the hard part. Hold the axle in a sturdy vice and assemble a large substantial sharp edged bearing splitter around the bearing axle interface. Again there is a significant interference fit. I had to use a splitter and a puller to remove the bearing.



  1. Lightly grease the new outer races and install them one at a time using the Tool. The races may not bottom out in the housing due to Tool interference. If this happens re install the tool with the old outer races âback to front' and use as press tools to fully seat the new outer races. As the old races will fit inside the housing bore by a small amount you may have to take a soft drift and tap them out.
  2. Grease the bearings liberally working grease between the rollers and cage and fill the housing.
  3. Put the outer bearing inner race/roller assembly in place and hold in place by pressing in the grease seal. This may be possible by hand or may have to be lightly tapped into place, but keep it square and properly seated.


  5. Re assemble the brake shoes and actuation cable. I put a smear of anti seize on the star wheel threads, you can also put touch on the shoe pivot points.
  6. Install the axle using the Tool.

  8. Install the inner bearing inner race/roller assembly using the Tool
  9. Install the grease seal as before.
  10. Install the drive shaft washer and nut. Torque to 230 ft.lbs. I used the pipe against to wheel studs and floor to react the torque. I always slightly overtorque, back off and then re torque to the correct value. Don't forget to approach the required value smoothly and steadily. You may have to slightly overtorque to get the nut castelations and hole to line up for the split pin. Use a new split pin.
  11. Attach the inner end of the drive shaft making sure you fully torque the six socket head screws. You may want to use low grade locktite on them too. I drilled the heads of two screws per side and safety wired them just to make sure that they would not all loosen.
  12. Re install the drum/disc. I usually trial fit it few times adjusting the star wheel and position of the shoes so there is not too much clearance when finally assembled.
  13. Re install the caliper.
  14. Install wheel and initial tighten lug nuts.
  15. Lower car and torque lug nuts to 80 ft.lbs.
Comments and Suggestions:
gene Comments: Owing to the part and procedure commonality between Beetles and Porsches, I purchase some of my stuff from you. I realize it would be a lot of work, but inclusion of Beetle models with procedures similar to the big boys would be helpful.
August 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
greg79s Comments: You can do an excellent job changing out the 930 bearings without cutting or removing the swingarm. refer to:
May 12, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Fabiostar Comments: I have a 911 Carrera from 1989. Which are the differences with the 930? Is there an article on wheel bearing replacement for this model? thanks
January 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The procedure is similar. I have sen it done with the backing plate installed and with it removed. If you have an on-car bearing tool, you will want to remove the backing plate and parking brake assembly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Biggles Comments: No mention of the spacer which is shown on the exploded diagram between the bearing races on a 930. Does this need to be replaced with the bearings because it is squashed down when assembled and new bearings may be slightly different A trick I learnt a while ago for getting tight inner races off a shaft is to use a welding torch on the bearing for just a couple of seconds and the race will just drop off onto your foot!
November 27, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I like to use a torch as well, the race drops right off as you mentioned. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bleedski Comments: Amen to the pain-in-the-ass comment. Just finished my 930 rear axle bearing experience. Good idea with the dremel. I used it also. The major issue I had was re-installing the race on the inner hub. It certainly would have been easier if I had more room under the car. I used a bearing/race driver set I hate to say it, from, Harbor Freight to install the races. Worked well.
April 11, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We just did an article on the late-model Turbo, and I have a bunch of additional tips for people reading here. Check out this link: Helps to reduce the PIA factor. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Olon Comments: Replacing Wheel Bearings on a 1993 Porsche Carrera 964, is it the same as the on the 930?
February 8, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's very similar on almost all cars. Here is a really neat article I wrote on the replacement of the wheel bearings on the Boxster / 996 / 996 Turbo cars. It's very similar to your 964: - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
spoke Comments: I didn't want to go through the pain of the heat cycle to get the outer races off so I used my Dremel cut-off tool. Took about 15 minutes per race and one whack with hammer and drift to remove. Dremel damage to the trailing arm was negligible.

Also used the Dremel to cut and remove the inner race attached to the hub. I took my time on that one and had virtually no damage to the hub shaft. A bearing splitter on this race didn't work for me. The thing didn't budge after 2 hours. The Dremel took about 10 minutes.
January 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
hedtrpr Comments: My god, what a total pain in the ass! I told my local mech. how much trouble this was and he simply said "every job on a 930 is a big job..." No kidding!
April 29, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It gets easier the 2nd and third time you do it. Having the proper tools (bearing removal / installation tool) really helps. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Fri 2/16/2018 02:41:00 AM