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Sound Padding & Carpet Installation

Pelican Technical Article:

Sound Padding & Carpet Installation


3 hours3 hrs






Roll of paper towels, 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive #08001, OSHA 29 CFR 1910.134 respirator, X-acto knife, scissors, tape measure, cardboard or hobby paper to make a template for the sound padding (if using aftermarket sound and heat padding)

Applicable Models:

Porsche 914 (1970-76)

Parts Required:

Sound padding as original or aftermarket sound and heat padding material, carpet,

Performance Gain:

A quieter and more comfortable and accommodating 914 cockpit

Complementary Modification:

Replace your shifter boot

Is your 914 noisy? Is your 356 carpet falling off? Hard to talk to someone in the car with the engine at about 3500 RPM because your sound pad is missing?  Is your 911 trim beginning to pull at the corners?  This Pelican technical article will explain how easy and safe it is to re-glue carpet and even heavy sound padding material into your car.  For the purposes of example, the replacement of the 914 sound deadening pad will be shown.  These principles can be applied to carpet and trim in virtually any car.

If your 914 is really noisy, then perhaps your sound deadening pad is missing from your engine compartment. Surprisingly enough, many 914s have had this pad ripped out of them, either from neglect or simply because it became unglued from the firewall.  Used replacement sound pads are usually available for $50.  Not only will the reinstallation of the pad make your 914 engine compartment look better, it will also cut down on the amount of noise that the engine makes when driving.  Figure 1 and Figure 2 show the 914 engine compartment with the sound pad missing.  It is installed tightly against the firewall, adhering to the contours of the back of the engine compartment.  Using the right adhesive, the reinstallation of the pad is a snap.

Start by getting all your materials all in the same place. It is recommended that you have the following on hand:

  • 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive #08001 (Figure 3)
  • OSHA 29 CFR 1910.134 Respirator (Figure 4
  • Roll of paper towels

The 3M adhesive is of course the key to success.  I have not been able to find a better product out there.  It allows you to work quickly and holds extremely well.  The respirator is highly recommended.  Often when reattaching carpet and trim, you need to work in tight areas where there is not too much ventilation.  Using the respirator now may limit your chance of getting cancer later on.  For me, it seems like a no-brainer.  Once you buy the mask and have it around to use, you will be surprised at how much you will use it.  The one I used was a Survivair #8621, and I was surprised when I opened the bag to see that it had a little shark on the nose, as seen in Figure 4!

A stock 914 sound pad is shown in Figure 5.  Despite rumors that I heard a long time ago, all of the information I have leads me to believe that this pad doesn't contain any asbestos.  The pad is very heavy (for it's size) and unwieldy to maneuver.   I would recommend applying the adhesive to the right side first, and then placing the pad in the car.  The left side is difficult to position because of interference with the relay board and the relay board cover.  You may want to unscrew the relay board and push it out of the way when you are installing the sound pad.  Aftermarket sound padding material works well too, but it is difficult to cut the material to fit exactly into the engine compartment unless you have an original pad.  If you do use aftermarket materials, you should probably 'map' out the engine compartment with some large paper to make sure everything fits.  Then cut the pad according to the changes that you made in the paper.

Contrary to other less than superior adhesives, the 3M Super Weatherstrip allows you to place the pad against the backwall, and will hold it in place after only a minute or two.  Another good point about the adhesive is that it doesn't need to 'set.'  If you place the pad against the back wall, and a small section isn't in contact with the back wall, you can push it up against it several minutes later, and the glue will hold.  Simply, the stuff is amazing.

Additionally, the adhesive doesn't seem to harm or remove the paint underneath.  The best description I have for the glue is that it is like an industrial strength rubber cement.  It allows you a lot of lee-way and a lot of room to make mistakes.  It's only down fall is that it is a bit gooey right out of the tube.  Hence the need for the paper towels.  It dries extremely quick, so make sure that the pad is mounted firmly against the back wall by pushing on it.

The 914 pad is also somewhat secured by little metal tabs that are at the top of the firewall, as shown in Figure 7.  Bend these tabs around the pad as you place it in the engine compartment.  After the right side is dry, then you can glue the left side much easier.  Simply apply the glue to the pad by reaching down in-between the firewall and the pad.  The right side being glued will help keep it in place.  The final installed pad is shown in Figure 8.

The adhesive works equally well for carpet; the sound pad is the worst case test for the glue because it is so heavy.  I recommend gluing the key points of the carpet, the corners, the edges, and a few spots in the middle.  Too much glue will not dry well, and may also get really messy.

Well, that's about it. If you have any questions or comments about this helpful tip, please drop us a line.

Figure 1

914 Without Sound Pad Installed

Figure 2

914 Without Sound Pad Installed

Figure 3

3M Adhesive

Figure 4

Air Purifying Respirator

Figure 5

Stock 914 Sound Deadening Pad

Figure 6

Sound Pad with Adhesive Pattern Applied

Figure 7

Close View of Sound Pad Clips

Figure 8

914 Engine Compartment with Sound Pad Installed

Comments and Suggestions:
Dave Comments: Surely someone knows where I can find some poly foam about 3/4 inch thick to put inside of my hood. I guess I am going to have to go local here in Knoxville TN to get the job done.
June 2, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Possible to find something will work. Has to be heat and fire resistant. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
david r Comments: where can I get material for a 944 hood
May 25, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Rich Comments: Doesn't describe how difficult it is to install this pad. Need 2 people definitely. I had to cut the pad in half to get the proper location.
January 24, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
fadler Comments: The 356.........yup looked just like mine. Removal is done with a respirator and a heat gun and a good set of putty knives. Not a pretty job. The thing I don't like about Dynamat is that it has its own silly logos all over it which is not bad under the carpet but really is bad looking in the engine bay or front trunk. I bought some off brand without logos.
March 17, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Hansolo Comments: Just removed the sound deadening pads off the inside of the hood of my 944, now the problem is that I am down to the 5% of remaining foam and the damned adhesive, I tried scraping, alcohol, that stuff won't come off easy, it just rolls on itself! Any easy trick to get that goop off?
February 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: When I've had difficulty removing stuff like this in the past, I've used a product called "Goop Off" or something similar to that. You can find it at most hardware stores. Seems to work pretty well, and it doesn't seem to damage the paint either. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
fadler Comments: OK, I have my rusty 1962 356B. It is down to the rubbery, tary pads glued where I need to restore. Do I just scrape them off and then strip Citristrip? and then clean and undercoat and spray with a rubbery undercoat?
October 13, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That's old sound deadening material - you need to remove that off in order to get to the metal underneath. Then cut new sheets from dynamat or something similar to replace it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
John Comments: Re: Sound deadening material
I am wanting to add sound and heat insulating material to the interior floor all the way to the rear window of my 1969 912. Can this be done without creating problems with installing your Perlon carpet set over it?
August 12, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Shouldn't be a problem. The dynamat material is very thin - much thinner than the soundproofing material they used originally. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Biker Bob Comments: I recently purchased a 72 914 with the engine in boxes. I am preparing the engine compartment for the new turn key engine I purchased. I looked for the sound proofing you described on the fire wall in the engine compartment and it is missing however when I removed the interior back panel from behind the seats there it was the sound proofing at least it looks like the photo in your article. Could it be at some point the sound proofing was placed behind the interior back pad instead of in the engine compartment? Did the car come with two sound pads or do I need to install this pad in the engine compartment? Thanks
May 18, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is indeed a big sound deadening pad in the engine compartment, and also some small padding behind the seat (sometimes). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Tue 2/20/2018 02:19:09 AM