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914 Shifting Improvements

Pelican Technical Article:

914 Shifting Improvements

Tim Polzin


3-8 hours






Loctite, flathead screwdriver, metric socket set and metric wrench set, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench, Phillips screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Porsche 914 (1970-76)

Parts Required:

1 M8 bolt, 1 spring washer, 3 M8x15 bolts, 3 spring washers, 1 M8 nut, 1 lock washer, 1 M8x35 bolt, 1 spacer bushing, 1 shift knob, 1 shift knob retainer, 4 lock rings, 2 guide pins, 2 springs, 1 stop plate, 1 lower spring seat, 1 spring, 1 upper spring seat, 1 shift support plate, 1 shift lever with selector rod, 2 wire straps, 1 hose clamp, 1 dust boot, l tapered screw, 1 rear shift rod with support body, 1 front shift rod, used side shift 901 manual transmission (if you have an early tail shift 901 trans - pre-1973), 911 motor mounts, late model engine mount bar

Performance Gain:

Your 914 will shift better than it ever has before (except if you had it from new, possibly)

Complementary Modification:

Replace your gear oil


By the request of many readers, I've decided to try to have the pictures follow the text more directly.  Please let me know if you like/dislike this approach.   Reader feedback will be used in later articles.
Thanks, Wayne

We have gotten many requests for this article from our readers.   By now, most people who own a 914 know that it's quite infamous for sloppy shifting.  Coupled with some questionable design strategies is the fact that the cars are over 25 years old, and many owners have neglected them for many years.  The shifter mechanism and transmission are often overlooked for periodic maintenance because a lot of components are hidden away from view.  Many people who think that they need a transmission rebuild find renewed life with their car after performing a few minor maintenance procedures.

Before deciding that you need to rebuild your transmission, you should probably check through all the items listed on this page.  While they won't guarantee that your tranny will shift like new, they will at least eliminate some of the possible causes of problems.  I think that most people would like to avoid a transmission rebuild.  One little note about transmission rebuilds: be cautious of people selling 'rebuilt' transmissions for $400/exchange. In most cases, to properly rebuild the 901 transmission you need a minimum of $400 in parts at wholesale costs. These 'rebuilds' often only include the replacement of the synchro rings - and sometimes only for 1st and 2nd gear. When buying a rebuilt transmission, make sure you know the condition of the sliders and the dog teeth before you spend your hard-earned cash.

I've separated this article into sections dealing with several parts of the shift linkages.  I concentrated on the side-shifter linkage because I don't have easy access to a car with a tail-shifter.  For more information on the tail shifter, please read Tim Polzin's guest article, 914 Tail-Shifter Linkage Improvements.  It's good to attack the problem step-by-step, replace worn parts, and then recheck to see if that improved the shifting.  If I have missed something, or if you have any information to add to this article, then please let me know and I will include it asap. 

Side-shifter Transmission Upgrade

The late model transmission (side-shifter) is a definite improvement over the tail-shifter model that shipped with early 914s.  The reasoning is that the shift linkage bar is a lot shorter on the improved transmission, and supported slightly better.  The internals of the two units are almost identical; almost all of the variation exists in the linkage setup.

In order to upgrade to the side-shifter transmission, you need the following:

  • side-shift 901 transmission from a 1973 or later 914
  • linkage setup from a 1973 or later 914
  • late model engine mount bar

The upgrade is basically a bolt-on solution.  Make sure that you have all the parts when you buy the linkage setup.  This linkage is shown in our parts diagrams section.  Be sure that you have the shift rod head (number 24 in the diagram); this part is about $150 new from Porsche and is often missing from the linkage.  It is also recommended that you replace all the bushings documented in the following sections.

When you buy your transmission, try to make sure that it shifts well.  I know that this is very difficult, as most transmissions are pulled from non-running cars.  Very often the parts in the transmission will be very worn and will require some expensive replacement (sliders often cost in excess of $300 each).

Rear Ball Cup Bushing

The rear ball cup bushing is placed inside the shift rod head(#24) and is often worn out from wear over the years.  Shown on the left side of Figure 1, this bushing fits around the ball lever that is attached to the side-shifter transmission.  Wear on this bushing will lead to sloppy shifting.  Replacement is relatively simple.  Simply loosen and removethe tapered screwon the front of the linkage (#26), and the tapered screw(#23) from the rear of the linkage and slide the  'universal joint' attached to the rear shift bar back from the front bar.  You need to remove the tapered screws all the way as they are not normal set screws.  Separating the rear linkage bar from the front may require some tugging as the fit is sometimes quite tight.  Be sure to use the correct hex wrench to remove the tapered screws.  Stripping them will require you to drill out and replace your rear linkage bar (been there, done that...). 

Once you have the rear bar removed from the front, the shift rod head should simply slide off.  Remove the ball cup bushing, and then 'snap on' another one.  This may take some force, as the ball cup makes a nice air pocket that you are inevitably trying to compress as you put the bushing on.  Be sure to use a little lithium grease inside the bushing to reduce the wear.  The addition of grease, of course, makes the air seal better, making it increasingly difficult to snap the bushing onto the ball.

Replacement of the shift linkage is the opposite of disassembly.  No adjustment is required because the tapered screws should line everything up perfectly.  Before replacing the shift linkage, though I would recommend replacing the other shift bushings described below.

Tapered Screws

As described in the previous section, the tapered screws(#26 & #23) hold the rear half of the linkage together.  If these screws are loose, missing or damaged, then the linkage will shift very sloppily.  It is wise to remove and check the screws every once and awhile.  Placing some locktite on the screws will also help to keep them from backing out.

Shift Rod Bushing

There is another bushing that the rear shift rod goes through at the very end of its length near the transmission.  This bushing can be seen in the right side of Figure 1.  In this figure, the bushing has been replaced with a bronze bushing which, although expensive, will almost never wear out.  At this time, we know of only one supplier of these and they cost around $30.  Regular plastic bushings are about $10 each.  The replacement of this bushing is similar to the ball cup bushing described above.  Simply remove the rear shift linkage bar and snap out the bushing.  The bronze bushing comes with a snap ring which holds it in place.  The plastic one snaps into place.  Again, place a little grease on the bushing when you install it.

Firewall Bushing

This one is not as easy to replace.  The bushing holds the shifter steady as it passes through the 914 firewall, as shown in Figure 2. You need to disconnect the rear shifter bar as described above and remove it from the car.  Then you need to pull the front shift rod forward out of the firewall, in order to remove and replace the bushing.  There are two ways of doing this. 

The best method is to remove the three mounting screws that hold the shift lever to the car chassis.  When the lever is loose, simply slide the shifter forwards, and the bar should fall out of the firewall bushing.  You need to remove the center console to do this, but more importantly, you don't need to readjust the shifter linkage later on.

Once you have the front shifter bar out of the way, the firewall bushing can be removed by prying it out of the firewall.  The old one is usually quite worn and comes out pretty easily.  Getting the new one pushed into the firewall takes some patience (what doesn't on a 914) and quite a bit of force.  I found that vise grips helped to compress the bushing before I installed it into the firewall.

After the new bushing is installed, you then need to replace the front shifter bar.  To insert the bar back through the firewall, you need to access the bar through the small access port located under the center cushion.   Removing the small metal plate allows you to get a grip on the rod and guide it into the bushing.  Now simply reinstall the center console, access plate, center cushion, and reattach the rear shifter bar.  You may want to do some inspection and/or modification to your shifter lever (see below) before you replace your center console.

Shifter Lever

It is possible to have the shifter lever fail that is located inside the cockpit of the car.  Sometimes the lever breaks along the seal of the top shifter lever ball, as shown in Figure 3.  In most cases, this breakage will result in catastrophic of the shifter and you will not be able to drive the car at all.  Additionally, the shift linkage sometimes breaks at the piece which connects to the front shift linkage.  Be sure to inspect and check the shifter lever carefully, as damage may be hard to see.  A good shifter lever is shown in Figure 4.

There are springs located in the shifter lever which prevent the driver from 'knicking' reverse when going into second.  You can replace these springs with heavier-duty type springs if they are worn out.  However, the most important thing to check on the shift lever is the proper alignment with respect to the transmission. You will probably want to remove the center console and center cushion for this step. The front shifter bar is inserted into the bottom of the shifter lever and is clamped down with an M8 bolt (#1).  If the shift bar is not properly aligned with the shifter lever, the car may easily 'knick' reverse when going into second.  The best way to align the shifter mechanism is to place the transmission into reverse  gear.  Then loosen the M8 bolt and pull the lever down into 1st gear.  You need to hold the shifter bar steady with your hand while you pull the lever down into first.  To do this, hold it through the access hole underneath the center cushion.  Now place the shift lever all the way to the left (as if you were going into first) and then insert the front bar back into the bottom of the shifter lever by pushing up into reverse.  This is much easier said than done, and may take a few tries.  The good news is that after this alignment is complete, you shouldn't have any more problems related to a misaligned linkage.

Some people also install what is called a short-shift kit into their 914s.  This will not solve any problems, and will in most cases make a poorly shifting car shift even worse.  The reason for this is that the torque arm on the shift lever is much shorter, giving you much less 'resolution' on your shifter.  It's similar to having a gas pedal that only travels 1 inch over its range instead of 2-3 inches.  You would have less precision in how much throttle you wanted to give the car.  In a similar manner, you will have less precision on where the shift rod is placed.

Transmission & Motor Mounts

Another source of sloppy shifting is bad transmission and motor mounts.  The motor and transmission assembly are mounted to the car with rubber mounts that isolate shocks and vibration.  Very often, these mounts deteriorate with age, and shifting becomes difficult as a result.  One symptom of this failure is that the shifter lever jerks when the car is accelerating.  This means that the entire engine/tranny assembly is jumping around in the rear of your car.  One method of testing to see if your transmission mounts are failing is to jack up the car underneath the tranny.  Place a floor jack under the middle section of the transmission and begin to jack up the car.   If the engine/tranny rises significantly without raising the chassis along with it, your tranny mounts are shot.  They often look fine until they are removed.  Then you can often see that they are completely cracked through.

The solution is to replace the tranny and/or engine mounts.   There are lower cost alternatives to the 914 transmission mounts (see Q&A Section).  911 motor mounts (shown in Figure 5) can be used as a direct replacement.  The process of replacing them is relatively easy.  Just jack up the car, support the transmission, detach the bolts that hold the tranny to the car, lower the engine assembly slightly, and then remove the mounts.  This failure is so common, that I have not seen a 914 recently that didn't have bad transmission mounts.

The engine mounts can be replaced in a similar manner.   Simply support the engine, and then drop the engine mount bar.  You can then easily remove and replace the engine mounts.

Linkage Weld Failure

Several 914 owners have had the rear shift rod piece break the small weld which holds an inner rod inside of the shift bar.  This weld is shown in Figure 6.  It is located on the rear of the rear shift rod on the side-shifter transmissions.  If the weld breaks, it can be easily re-welded back together.  It is a good idea to check to make sure that the weld looks solid.  It may be difficult to see though, as it is often covered by the dust boot that covers the rod.

Transmission Ears Failure

The 914 transmission end coversare often prone to breaking their ears off.  These can be re-welded or simply replaced with a good used one.  If the ears break, you probably will not be able to shift too well, and you will notice immediately.  This failure is caused by fatigue, and may be related to increased stress due to bad transmission mounts.

Other Checks and Improvements

Some other things to think about:

  • Is your transmission fluid fresh, or 25 years old?
  • Is there even transmission oil in there?
  • Is the clutch adjusted properly (tech article coming soon)
  • Is the clutch tube at the firewall broken?
  • Is the clutch slipping?

Final Comments

Well, that about sums it up.  If you can think of something that we missed here, please drop us line.  Also feel free to ask any questions.  Remember, Pelican Parts can provide all the parts you need combined with all the technical support as well.  We can supply every part mentioned in this article at low prices.  Your continued support of Pelican Parts ensures that tech articles like this will continue to be written!!!

Mike Lannan ( had these comments to add:

I have to thank both Pelican Parts and Jon Lowe for providing valuable assistance to get my '71 914 shifting well again.  Your tech articles and advice help an amateur Porsche mechanic keep going. I wanted to pass along a couple of things that worked for me during the process.

I was basically using the Pelican Parts website procedure for replacing all the shift bushings on my 914 with side shift conversion. Once I had removed the firewall bushing,  I ran into exactly what the article warned about, i.e. the new one would be tough to get in.  However, there isn't much room under there to exert a lot of force, so  after several attempts, I got a 1"  threaded pipe nipple and threaded coupling to fit. The coupling is about the same diameter as the bushing. The pipe nipple with the coupling threaded onto it as tightly as possible was long enough to fit between the crossmember under the front of the engine and the bushing. Then, as I unscrewed the coupling from the pipe nipple it pushed the bushing into the firewall. This was a little awkward as it takes about two and a half hands to hold everything in alignment; but it worked very well.

The other thing that I then found out was that it was not easy to put the front shift linkage bar back through the new bushing. The first time I tried I pushed the bushing back out of the firewall. This gave me more practice with my pipe and coupling tool. My solution to this was to have my assistant push the shift lever forward and hold it so the linkage came out through the firewall. I then put the bushing on the shift linkage bar, and then used the pipe and coupling to install the bushing into the firewall with the linkage already through it.  This procedure worked like  a charm for me.

just want to add that you need to continue encouraging people to make sure that they have the shift bushings in top shape before they try anything else to diagnose a 914 shifter problem. I cannot believe the difference that the new bushings, especially the firewall bushing, has made in my shifting.  The car is just a lot more fun to drive, and when I checked the old bushing for excessive play, it seemed negligible; but I finally replaced it, and what a difference.

Thanks again for providing enough support and information to keep these old cars going.

Best Regards,

Mike Lannan

Figure 1

Rear Ball Cup Bushing & Shifter Rod Bushing

Figure 2

Firewall Shifter Rod Bushing

Figure 3

Broken Shifter Lever

Figure 4

Correct Shifter Lever

Figure 5

Transmission Mounts

Figure 6

Shifter Linkage Weld

Comments and Suggestions:
socuriouso Comments: I believe the answer for Greg Amy would be the shift coupler bushings. I believe there are pictures of the correct orientation either in the parts catalog or tech articles included there.
July 16, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Dennis Comments: Nick
A new slider sleeve was installed for the shifter knob. Is there a special way to install it? I installed the sleeve on the chrome shifter shaft them installed the new shifter knob.
October 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should be friction fit, so once in it should stay. The shifter may be worn out if the sleeve doesn't tighten on it when assembled. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dennis Comments: I have a new 914-2.0 gear shift knob with the internal metal,spacer.
Apparently I am having the same trouble with the new knob as before. It keeps sliding down the chrom shifter shaft. What can I do to correct this.
It happens all the time
October 12, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The spacer is sliding down, not locking? Did you install a new crush sleeve? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Greg Amy Comments: Hoping for a quick answer. I bought your shifter bushing kit which included part# 911-424-024-98-INT, the polygraphite bushings for the yoke on the front of the shift shaft. They have a half-circle flange on them, with no obvious reason or indication on what orientation that semi-circle should be clocked when pressed in. My originals are completely gone so I can't tell. Does it matter how they're clocked? If not, why the semi-circle? Thanks!
May 4, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not familiar with this kit, can you share photos of the part and the flange?

For an instant response, give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
O J Comments: I have 71 - 914 - 4cyl original in every way. Just started having issues with transmission. Having trouble with 1st gear - hard to get it in gear and keeping it there. Any history of this type of problem other than getting into the actual transmission ?
December 11, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Start by checking the shifter and shifter parts before condemning the trans. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Buzz Comments: I have a 1974 with a side shifter trans and am rebuilding the shift shaft. Your article says to use lithium grease in the rear ball cup bushing but nothing about what to use on the firewall and shift rod brass bushings. What do you recommend? Also, does anyone make replacements for the firewall shift rod rubber bellows and the aft shift rod rubber bellows and cover? Thanks for your help. Your tech info is always very useful and appreciated.
October 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not 100% sure what to use there.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need.

- Nick at Pelican Parts
pipersheld Comments: Somewhere along the line the driver side seat belt bolt was replaced with one a bit longer than the stock one. I replaced all the bushings along the shifter shaft and it was binding up in the 4th and 5th shifting area. The shaft was binding up on the seat belt anchor bolt end in the tube tunnel. I added a couple washers and it shifts fine.
June 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional information. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Flacht Comments: Just received my shifting super kit, you can forget about the difficulty in installing the firewall bushing. John Clipp hit it right on the head, drop the bushing in boiling water for 3 minutes you can push it in place with one hand. Just got back from installing kit, I did not have to install the rear bushing as PO had the brass one in place but put everything else in position. Best drive I have ever experienced in my car shifting was 75% better and perfectly precise. WHAT A DIFFERENCE and for $43.00?
My only comment is do not forget to install the rear cover for the side-shifter PRIOR to putting both cone screws in.l
Thanks Pelican Parts for the great Tech Info!!!!

June 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
underdog Comments: The photos show the cone screws are not fully seated sticking out. Is this normal?
October 26, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I cannot locate the photo you are referring to. The screws should be tightened. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rfoulds Comments: Just ordered bushing kit. I have your tech article, and the Dr. Evil adjustment procedure to help me. thanks for the great support over the years. Been buying your stuff since Day ONE Wayne!
October 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RJRandalls Comments: Replaced my stock 914-6 shifter with Rennshifter from JWest Engineering. It works great, but now I can not get my hand throttle reattached. Not sure how it gets mouted at the shifter base yes I do have the slot for the hand throttle cut in the base, and also not sure how the long rod gets reconneted to the throttle cable up front.
Any help would be appreciated.
July 2, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here are the instructions from Rennshifter:

Remove Existing Parts
Remove the shift knob by placing a 15mm open-end wrench under the knob. Hit the
wrench (as illustrated) so it pushes the knob up and off the shifter shaft. Aftermarket
knobs are often retained by one or more socket head setscrews.
Engage 2nd gear (901) or 3rd gear (915).
Remove the center console (if your car is so equipped) and remove the original shifter.
Ensure that all of your shifter bushings are in good shape. These vary by model and year, but any slop in the linkage will
reduce the precision of your new shifter. Make sure linkage cone screws are tight.
914: Inspect the clutch tube in the tunnel for evidence of being rubbed by the shifter. The clutch tube is often broken loose
from its welds to the tunnel, and must be repaired for proper clutch and shifter operation.
Install RennShift
Bolt the shifter base on to the housing, positioning the reverse feature in the same quadrant as reverse gear (left front for 901,
right rear for 915).
911 and 914 tail shift: Clean out the old bushing and grease from the socket for the ball cup bushing. Make sure the small
hole on the side of this cup is clear, as it is often plugged with dried grease. Check the socket head setscrew (on the left side
of the socket) to be sure it is tight.
Important! Slide the rod bushing bracket forward so it can drop into the tunnel to make room
for the bracket spacer. Grease the socket and lower the new shifter into position, inserting
the ball cup into its socket.
Start the 2 new 6mm socket head capscrews with flat washers into the rod bracket holes and
lightly tighten. Make sure the spacer is between the base plate and the shift rod bracket (it is
shipped glued to the bottom of the base plate). If the spacer is left out then the shift
linkage will bind. Install the 3 new 8mm capscrews with flat washers. Tighten all the
914 side shift: Grease the original steel sleeve bushing and two bronze thrust washers
and install on the new shifter. Grease the shift rod pivot and reinstall along with the original
nut, bolt, and lock washer, placing the nut on the passenger’s side of the car. Ensure that
the shift pivot rotates freely – remove any burrs if it does not.
Install the shifter by sliding the shift pivot onto the shift rod in the tunnel. Install the 3 new
8mm capscrews. Lightly tighten the clamp bolt through the hole in the shifter plate and check
the adjustment.
RennShift 901 and 915
Installation instructions

Adjust Shift Pattern
Perform shifter adjustments in the center plane allowing the shifter springs to set the center location. Fore-aft adjustment is determined by the reverse lockout, and will often benefit from a road test to ensure proper operation in a dynamic environment.
914 side shift: Adjustment requires trial and error to match the center plane of the shifter to the 2nd/3rd gear plane. A road test with tools to check and adjust the shift from 1st to 2nd is often the best method.
Adjustments and Options
Adjust Gear Stops
After the adjustment is complete, loosen the locknuts and adjust the gear stops. Hold the gearshift as far as it will go in gear and turn the socket head screw until it just touches the shift stick. Back the screw away to leave a slight clearance and tighten the lock nut. These are over-travel stops - be sure they do not interfere with full engagement of the gears. Clearance must be left to compensate for shifting of the engine/transmission under acceleration and braking.
Adjust Spring Gates
The side gate springs are delivered in the lightest configuration. Up to three of the included thick washers may be installed under each spring to increase the stiffness. Additional spacers beyond this can lead to spring coil bind and shifter damage. The left spring controls right stick motion and vice versa. The springs are independent, so any combination of stiffness (including complete spring removal) may be used with no effect on the other spring.
Adjust Shifter Throw
The RennShift can be configured for either 20% or 33% reduced throw in the fore-aft plane (side-to-side remains 20% reduction from stock).
Remove the shifter from the car and remove the upper stick. Remove the pivot cross bolt using an allen wrench through the access window in the shifter housing. Extract the shift stick through the bottom of the shift housing, being sure to capture the two thrust washers and the pivot bushing. Important! Grease and replace the bushings in the desired hole, lower for 20% and upper for 33%. Reinsert the stick; align both holes with the pivot, and install the cross bolt in the proper position. Tighten until the lever moves smoothly with slight resistance. Extreme over tightening can distort the bronze bushing.
Note: if the pivot bolt is the removed and the shifter lever reinstalled upward or downward from the original placement, the shifter will not function properly. The two holes in the pivot carrier and the two holes in the shift lever must always align when the lever is vertical.
Reverse lockout
The reverse lockout can be configured for automatic or manual operation.
Automatic: Install the (top to bottom) flat steel washer, spring, pawl, and nylon washer. Grease the tip of the pawl where it contacts the shift stick. The lockout works when coming from the opposing gear in the gate (1st with 901, 5th with 915). To enter reverse, first select neutral in the center plane prior to shifting to reverse.

Manual: Install the (top to bottom) spring washer, nylon spacer, pawl, grease, and small washer. Grease the tip of the pawl where it contacts the shift stick.
This product comes with no warranties of any kind, including warranty of fitness for intended purpose. The user assumes all risk of property damage and/or personal injury arising from the use of this product. Any liability on the part of the manufacturer and/or seller of this product is expressly limited to replacement of the product.
Grease Grease - Nick at Pelican Parts
Jonathan Comments: I used the right size bit in the set screw but it broke off anyway. Tried drilling it out but the bit was harder then the new "metal" drill bits. Bought a used Shift Rod Head for $25 from a S.F. Bay Area vendor, once it arrived carefully used a grinding wheel to grind away enough of the old part to allow the set pin all that was left to fall out. You must be very careful not to hit the shift rod, but it wasn't difficult and I only ruined one part not the shift rod head and rod itself by drilling it out as described above. Rx don't break the bit or hex key off in the set screw, but if you do, find the used part first, as the new part is $160+ and then grind away with eye and hearing protecting and thick work gloves, Electric angle grinders can do brutal things to your person.
December 10, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Charles Comments: Just finished installing the full shot bushing kit on my '74 914. Not many problems-built a wood jig for the firewall bushing installation. Had trouble with the shift coupler bushings. Mine were totally missing into the tunnel, so when I finally figured out where the two little black devices went, I had to find a press to get the main pin out of shift coupler, which looks and acts like it should be called a universal joint. Not called out in anyone's shop manual, or noted in your parts diagram.
October 11, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
raul Comments: Done i got it a couple of days ago, i got the super kit im putit in on today, thanks!!
October 8, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Raul Comments: hellow wat up, any info on the 73 914 side shifter bushings??????? how many and wich ones i need????
September 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Raul Comments: How are you guys? hey i have a 73 914 with the side shifter, can you tell me please wich bushings i need, to fix my shifting needs? thanks!!!
September 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We have a three-bushing shift kit that we sell in our 914 catalog under the shift, pedals, linkage section. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
John Clipp Comments: I also had problems with the firewall bushing I put it in boiling water and stirred it around for a few minutes. Then removed from water and put it in. This gave the bushing enought flexibility to be pushed in by hand
December 5, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts

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