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Pelican Guest Technical Article: 914 Racing Seat Installation

Pelican Technical Article:

Pelican Guest Technical Article: 914 Racing Seat Installation

Chris Campbell


4 hours4 hrs






Shop vac, electric drill and drill bits, wire brush, metal etch, Rust-o-leum primer and paint,

Applicable Models:

Porsche 914 (1970-76)

Parts Required:

Two Corbeau Forza race seats, 914 adapter seat rails, eight M8x20 bolts, washers (8), lock washers (8), nyloc nuts (8), proper hardware for mounting the two five-point racing harnesses, two racing harnesses

Performance Gain:

Two racing seat and two racing five-point safety harnesses mounted properly in your 914

Complementary Modification:

Enroll in a driving school like Bob Bondurant or Skip Barber

Race Seat & Harness Install

April 14, 2001

Since I am doing more and more driving events with the 914, and also because my original tan basketweave seats are pretty thrashed and the correct fabric is NLA, I decided to put some race seats in the car.  I wanted some lightweight, FIA approved seats with 5-point harness pass-thrus -- plus of course they had to be a suitable size for my body and for the 914. 

I went with the Corbeau Forza seat, which is a tube frame design weighing 16lbs each. They are affordable at around $220/ea, and fit the 914 quite well without conflicting with the center console or e-brake handle.  I do have the backpad out, and a Stable Energies harness bar installed: I am not sure how well this would work with the factory backpad in place.  For the harnesses, I went with the clip-in Schroth camlock setup, which is expensive but extremely high quality.

[Click on thumbnails for a larger view]

Corbeau Forza seats (I got black)
914 adapter rails
The seat base
FIA approval
Unfortunately, the holes in the brackets were off by about 1/2", so I had to drill an additional hole in one end of each rail to get the necessary spacing. I actually did this on the "front" of the rails on one seat and the "back" on the other. Both required a little additional clearancing with a drill for the adjuster mechanism in the rails to clear the hardware, so it is kind of a toss up which end to drill.
You MUST use exactly the right sized hardware for everything to clear. I believe I used M8x20 bolts (possibly M8x16), with smooth washers and lock washers where appropriate, and M8 nyloc nuts.
The rails and adapter brackets assembled -- do this prior to mounting to the seat base. There is no room to tighten or adjust the brackets once bolted to the seat.
Clearance is tight, but it works fine.
Close up of adjuster showing the hardware and spacing.
DSCN0022.jpg DSCN0024.jpg
The finished assembly, ready to go into the car (driver's side).
I spent a little time doing some quickie cleanup of the floors -- cleaned out a bunch of nasty old dirt and crud with the shop vac, wire brushed and zinc-sprayed the areas showing surface rust, and then rattled-canned some Ravenna Green where needed.
Mounted the sub strap through the floor -- 1/2" hole, sealed with Wurth undercoat.
Backing plate for sub strap.
This shows how much room is left with the backpad removed -- the seat is in my normal comfortable position here (I am 5'10" but have relatively short legs...)
Driver's side installed.
Re-installed and adjusted the Schroth 5pt harness.
Both seats in the car.
This is the hardware to 'properly' bolt in the shoulder harnesses. (I ran them in the first event or two with them wrapped around the guide bar, but that is not a good permanent installation.)
The eye bolts with compression lockwashers and 2" stainless fender washers, thru the firewall.
The backing plates on the engine bay side of the firewall.


Comments and Suggestions:
Ethan Comments: Just a few questions. How tall are you, and do you fit with a helmet on in the car? Does the e-brake handle clear the seat when in use?
July 4, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This article is from a *long* time ago - I would try emailing the author direct. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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