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Replacing 914 Gas Lines in the Center Tunnel

Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing 914 Gas Lines in the Center Tunnel


5-6 hours






Small pipe bender, tape measure, metric line wrenches, workbench, workbench vise, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses

Applicable Models:

Porsche 914 (1970-76)

Parts Required:

Edelman brake lines (sizes in article), female NPT to flared adapter (2), 1/4-inch & 5/16-inch rubber hose (three feet of each), roll of Teflon tape and eight small hose clamps

Performance Gain:

No more fuel leaks

Complementary Modification:

Replace the fuel pump

When 914s originally left the factory, they were equipped with fuel lines made of plastic that ran down the center tunnel. With time, these lines can age and become brittle and crack, leading to dangerous fuel leaks either in the center tunnel or near the rear firewall. When I installed my 2.7 six engine in my 914, I decided to replace these fuel lines. The process is not too difficult, and requires a long  afternoon to complete.

The first step in beginning the replacement is to gather all the parts you'll need to complete the project.  To replace the lines that run within the center of the car, I used Edelsman brake lines with English flared fittings on each end. These are the same types of fittings that are used on the 914 brake lines, although those fittings have a metric thread. Where the lines exit the rear firewall, I used right angle fittings to make the bend around the corner to the fuel pump a little easier. Here's a list of what you'll need:

  • 3/8" brake lines 60" in length with flared fittings
  • 5/16" brake lines 60" in length with flared fittings
  • 3/8" brake lines 40" in length with flared fittings
  • 5/16" brake lines 40" in length with flared fittings
  • 5/16" right angle elbow flared to NPT
  • 3/8" right angle elbow flared to NPT
  • Female NPT to flared adapter
  • Female NPT to flared adapter
  • 1/4" and 5/16" Rubber Fuel hose (about 5-6 feet total)
  • A roll of Teflon tape and eight small hose clamps
  • A small pipe bender

Pelican Partscan provide you with all the parts that you need in a single kit for assembly. Drop us a lineif you're interested, or visit our ordering pagefor more information on ordering your parts from us.

The first step in replacing the fuel lines is to remove the fuel tank. I would recommend the removal of the front hood, which is usually a two-person job. I wouldn't recommend attempting it yourself, or you might drop the hood when you least expect it. Following the removal of the hood, you need to empty the gas tank. This can be accomplished a variety of ways. You can remove the belly pan from underneath the rack and pinion, reach up through an access hole underneath the tank, and clamp the rubber lines leading from the bottom of the tank. Then the lines may be clipped, and the tank lifted up on its side where it can be drained at a later time. This method sometimes works well, and sometimes spills gasoline all over the place. Another method is to hook a line up to the fuel pump. A long 1/4" clear hose from Home Depot should do the trick. Clamp the lines leading to the pump, and then disconnect the supply line to the fuel injection. Connect the long hose to the fuel pump, and place the other end in the gas tank of another car. Turning on the ignition will then let the fuel pump empty the tank. Note:this will not work with a car equipped with the 1.8 injection system.  In order to get the fuel pump to run with a 1.8, you need to directly wire the pump to a 12V source. Make sure you don't run the pump backwards by mistake. After the tank is empty, clip the lines that lead from the bottom of the tank. You can throw these away, as it is best to use new fuel lines. Remove the top overfill canister and disconnect the fuel sender line.  This step is often overlooked.  Loosen the strap that holds the tank in place and lift it out of the car.

Here's some more tips on emptying the tank from Andy Green:
     To get the 1.8 fuel pump to run (so that you can empty the tank, simply remove the air filter top, carefully stick your finger in to the air meter and gently lift the flapper (with the ignition on). This is easier than hot wiring the pump, and probably a lot safer for the electro-mechanically challenged.  You can put the drain hose on the output side of the pressure regulator then flip it out of the engine compartment, over the left side of the car, into your container. This works well since you are standing on the left side to actuate the pump--it is easy to coordinate the flow and the hose, as well as not overflow the container. It can all be done from on top of the car and you don't have to mess with the pressure side of the lines. Also, on either 2.0, 1.7 or 1.8 be careful not to over run the pump when the tank empties. The fuel cools it--no point shortening its expensive little life!

   At this point, it probably would be a wise idea to carefully inspect and clean the tank.  There is almost always a whole bunch of crud in the bottom of the tank. Finding someone with very small hands to reach down into the tank helps a lot. Also, inspect the tank on the outside for areas of rust. I've heard reports of  holes forming in tanks where they rest against the felt pads in the inside of the front trunk.

    Once the tank is out, you can remove the old lines. Disconnect the plastic lines from the rubber ones that lead to the fuel pump. Again, throw away these lines and replace them with new ones. The cost of new fuel hose at about a dollar a foot is a worthy investment. Once the lines are free, pull them out of the plastic clips attached to the firewall. At this point, move to the front of the car underneath the dash and gain access to the center tunnel through the access hole near the gas pedal. This will require the removal of the front carpet and/or the center console if you have it installed. This port can be seen in Figure 1. Pull the two lines out of the grommet that fits in the wall. The plastic lines have steel ends on them where they go through the firewall. Proceed back to the rear of the car, where you should be able to pull the lines through to the engine compartment. You  may have to twist and yank on them in order to get them out. You can poke and prod them to through the access holes along the center tunnel.

Once the lines are out of the car, you can install the new ones. Prepare the lines by cutting off one end of the line and removing the nut fitting.  It is not necessary to deburr the line just yet, as you will need to make another cut when you size the line.   Cover the ends of the lines with tape so that you don't get debris inside them. Insert the two lines into the grommet at the firewall and feed them through the center tunnel.  This may require some prodding through the various access holes in the center tunnel.  I've heard reports of this being a difficult process, but mine went in real easy. It certainly is easier with the engine removed from the car.

   Now you need to size and cut the lines.  Remove the grommet from the front of the car underneath the gas tank.  Bend the lines to feed into the hole where the grommet used to be.  Push the lines into the gas tank compartment as far as they can go.  Now measure the length at which the lines hang out in the back of the engine compartment.  I made my lines sit as close to the firewall as possible as to not interfere with the motor.  This is shown in Figure 2. Measure how much you need to cut off, and then remove the lines from the car. Make sure to add a little bit extra (1-2 in) because you will have to bend the lines to make them fit right into the forward grommet, as shown in  Figure 1 .  When cutting the lines, make the smaller return line a little bit longer, as the two right angle fittings at the firewall will interfere slightly if they are the same length.  At this time, it would be wise to deburr the edges of the lines with a small file or Dremmel tool.  

    Now, replace the lines in the tunnel and replace the grommet that you removed in the gas tank compartment.  Now comes the tough part.  You need to bend the ends of the lines in order to get them to feed into the grommet.  This takes quite a bit of patience, and is the most difficult part of this task.  I have no real advice on this one except not to over bend the lines; they will not go through the grommet if they are at a significant angle. The lines should stick out of the grommet about 1-2 inches, as shown in Figure 3.

   Once the lines are in the tunnel and through the grommet, then you can replace the gas tank.  I suggest using 1/4" and 5/16" diameter fuel hose to connect to the tank. I also suggest using a length of about three feet, so that you have plenty of working room in case you need to remove the tank again (to install the front sway bar, perhaps?). Clamp every line, even if there wasn't one there to begin with. Make sure when replacing the gas tank that the line doesn't get caught and pinched between the tank and the wall.  Make sure that all your lines and hoses are out in the open before you replace your tank; I recently had to remove and replace the tank three times in about an hour when I realized that there were wires or hoses left underneath.  

   Now, you can attach the right angle fittings to the lines that are extending from the firewall as shown in Figure 4.  I originally used brake line fittings as shown in the photos. However, after getting the car back together, I had problems with them leaking. Instead of using the right angle fittings, I decided to use some braided flexible hose instead. This solved all of the leaking problems, because I think that I damaged the pipe fittings during their installation. After you put the fittings on, then you need to bend and cut the 40" lines to lead to the fuel pump.  This can take a couple of iterations as the proper bend and length is not intuitively obvious. These bends are shown in Figure 5.  It may make sense to buy extra brake lines (at $3 each it's worth not having to make an extra trip) so that you have at least another chance if you bend the lines the wrong way.  The entire setup in the engine compartment is shown in Figure 6. The black metal mount attached to the bulkhead is my 914-6 motor mount. When you reinstall the fuel tank, be careful to check to make sure that there is no leakage around any of the connections. Remember that there will be more fuel pressure in the lines when the tank is full, then when it is almost empty.

   There you have it - you shouldn't worry about your fuel lines leaking again, and you've increased the safety of your car.  If you have any questions about this job, drop us line...

JP Noonan has the following to add:

Well I went to put in new fuel lines in my center tunnel. My car is a 75 so the pump was originally up front. The problem is that on 70-74 the feed nipple from the tank is 9mm and the return nipple is 7mm, this must be what the tech article was based on. However the 75-76 have both nipples as 7mm. Sooo I bought 5/16" line and 3/8" line to replace what was two 7mm (5/16") lines. The 3/8" line fit but just barly. now I have it in there I have to step down to 5/16" line. So to amend the article I would sugest that if you want to replace lines in a 75-76 BOTH lines should be 5/16". Also I would recomend using wire lube or dishwashing soap to aid in pushing the lines through the gromets. Also a problem that may arise (I won't know until I drive the car) is that the lines may rattle together. One way to help this would be to cover the lines in shrink tubing as they are fed through the fire wall.

Figure 1

Fuel lines entering grommet in front end of tunnel

Figure 2

Fuel lines exiting out of the rear firewall

Figure 3

Fuel lines in front of car underneath gas tank

Figure 4

Right-angle fittings exiting firewall

Figure 5

Fuel lines bent underneath the fuel pump

Fuel lines in engine compartment
Figure 6

Fuel lines in engine compartment

Comments and Suggestions:
Steve Comments: I just completed this job last weekend on my 71 and will offer the following advice: First, remove the front hood i did this myself, but you may need assistance. Second, you do not need to remove the engine to install the SS lines. The only things you need to remove is the hood and the access panel next to the pedal assembly. I did the whole job in less than 30 minutes. I started by cutting the old lines and pulling them out of the tunnel. Then, using the lines I purchased from PP, I slid the first one in. I was working by myself so I had to feed it up to the front grommet then gave it a push and it went in. The second line did not go in so easily. This is what I did: I laid under the car with my feet towards the front, grabbed the line and as I pushed it in, I twisted the line left and right which helped get it through the tunnel and repeating the same process to get it through the grommet. I was worried it was going to be difficult but the process was very easy.
September 29, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
hammer Comments: do I need to run a return fuel line for a cerebrated set up
March 21, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What type of vehicle? Please tell me in more detail what you are trying to do. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
DSB914 Comments: Just getting my 914 72 running after rebuilding the car, Shortly after starting the car, the engine quit. After some investigation, the rubber hose had slipped off the stainless steel line 3/8 SS tubing. The hose had been clamped with a 16 to 14 mm clamp. During the rebuild the fuel pump was mounted in the front, below the fuel tank. What's the best hose clamp to use on this connection, as it's under pump pressure all the time. The hose measures 0.600" OD 15mm. The clamp was fully tight.
January 19, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You want a stainless fuel injection hose clamp. A mini 14 or mini 15 should work. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RT Comments: Thanks for the great articles I'm ready to replace fuel lines on my 1972 914-4 since I'm running a carb I think I only need to replace the feed line and cap off the return line both ends. Thanks Again
April 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
M9hundo Comments: If I read this correctly you said that you did away with those 90 degree connections against the firewall and went with a flexible steel braided line instead? I'm doing my homework on this task and I was wondering if I can just run the hard fuel line all the way through and bend it against the firewall, route it up, put a bubble flare on it and clamp a hose to it.

1973 Porsche 914 1.7
June 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you use the same style lines that were originally installed, just rebuilding them or making new ones, that should work out fine. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bob Comments: I just replaced the fuel lines im my 72, 1.7l. I matched the bends of the tunnel lines to metal ends of the old lines. They went in really easy, I had to guide them a little with a screwdriver while my daughter pushed them in and out. The rubber grommet was easy too, a little litthium grease on the lines and it slid right into place. I did have to add a bit more bend to one line.

I used compression elbows at the rear wall that I picked up at the local hardware store. I could not find 5/16 elbows to make a threaded connection.

I used a double flaring tool to put a bubble flare in the ends of the lines. Just stop turning before you get to a full double flare and it makes a nice bubble.

Here is my parts list.
2-60"x3/8 brake lines-you dont need all, but was only 1$ more than the shorter lines
3-60"x5/16 Brake lines-again, more than you need. 2 60s will leave you about 8" short. The lines that go up from the fuel pump are both 5/16th.
3/8" elbow with compression fittings
5/16" elbow with compression fittings

Remains to be seen if the compression fittings will hold up to vibration, but everyone Ive asked seems to think they will.

Im happy to share my experiece if your thinking of doing this.

April 18, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing - these gas lines are a pain, I remember doing them 15 years ago on my car! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
911JeffS Comments: For bending the fuel lines in the engine compartment & up by the fuel tank. You could take this extra step. Buy cheap windshield hose and run a hanger or an equivalent wire through the hose bend it as you wish, and presto, you have a perfect template to bend your new lines by. Saving your real lines for the final steps. I'm using aluminum with flared ends & clamped EFI rubber hose combo. I prefer to keep the connections to a minimum.
February 11, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Neat tip, thanks for sharing! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
don Comments: I have a 1973 914 1.7. I need to replace the fuel pump. I’m 50 miles from the nearest town so I’m attempting this on my own. WHERE IS THE PUMP? I feel very stupid as I have the restoration manual and have gone on line. Help please. Use reference points eg from the battery it is xx”out and down, or from the air filter screw it is ____.

Thank you.

August 2, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fuel pump should be located under the battery for your car. The later cars had the pump moved further forward due to a vapor lock problem - some owners have performed this update, so it might be in the front trunk. But, it's usually under the battery. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Fri 2/16/2018 02:40:13 AM