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Fan Belt and Pulley Replacement

Pelican Technical Article:

Fan Belt and Pulley Replacement


1 hour1 hr






Special pulley holding tool from 911 toolkit, 22mm socket or 7/8-inch socket and ratchet, small screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Porsche 911 (1965-68)
Porsche 911E (1969)
Porsche 911L (1968)
Porsche 911S (1967-69)
Porsche 911T (1969)
Porsche 914 6-cyl (1970-72)

Parts Required:

Fan belt, pulley, shims

Performance Gain:

Your 911 engine will run cool, and the alternator will properly charge the electrical system

Complementary Modification:

Replace the alternator and the oil cooler
The fan belt on the 911 motor is perhaps one of the most important components on the entire motor. Being an air-cooled engine, the cylinders and oil cooler depend upon the steady flow of air to cool the engine during operation.  If this belt should happen to fail, then the engine will instantly begin to overheat. At this point, there will be no air cooling the cylinders, and their temperature will rise almost instantly. Additionally, the oil cooler will be starved for air, and the engine temperature will quickly begin to rise. The 356 has a very similar fan belt system, and the principles discussed here can easily translate over to the 356 side.

Unfortunately, the only real warning of a belt failure is the alternator light indicating that you have a problem. I was driving my 2.7 914-6 on a winding road in bright sunlight, coming back from a short trip when I noticed that my alternator light was on. The sun was shining on the dash, so I barely noticed it.  Since I have had many alternator problems in the past, I simply assumed that my alternator was going bad. About three minutes later, I saw that my temperature gauge was almost in the red. At this point, I knew that my fan belt had broken, and I had to stop real soon. I limped into a gas station and shut off the car. Smoke was billowing from my engine (left over oil that had spilled on the engine block I assume), and when I lifted the engine grille, I could hear the oil 'bubbling' inside the engine. Needless to say, I'm glad that I noticed the alternator light in time. This incident enlightened me to the importance of this seemingly simple part.

Needless to say, if your fan belt or pulley fails, then your engine could be in trouble. The key to keeping your motor running cool is preventative maintenance in this case. Proper installation of both the fan and the pulley will guarantee that your car will be running cool for thousands of miles.

You should frequently inspect your fan belt for damage or wear from the years of previous service. The belt often shows signs of cracking or drying out after years of service in the car.  You should check the fan belt every time that you change the oil, and replace it if you see anything that looks wrong.   The tension of the fan belt is adjusted by the use of shims around the pulley. Adding more shims on the shaft causes the belt to ride lower on the pulley shaft. Removing the shims decreases the diameter of the 'V' groove, and causes the belt to ride higher, and thus tighter. The first step in replacement is to remove the old belt. Figure 1 shows the fan belt as seen from the engine compartment. To remove the fan belt, you use the special pulley holding tool that comes in the 911 toolkit.  Seeing how most people don't have this tool, you can use a small screwdriver inserted in the holes of the pulley, to constrain the fan from moving.  Do not use any tools on the actual fan blades. These blades often break off, and replacement fans can be expensive. While holding the pulley from turning, loosen the nut on the pulley shaft. This nut is a metric size 22mm, but in a pinch, a 7/8" socket will work very well too.

Once you have the old pulley, belt and shims off, take a close look at the pulley. Figure 2 shows a pulley that was damaged, probably due to overtightening. These pulleys are used primarily in smog or AC motors where you need to run another device off of the main driveshaft.  In general, the earlier pulleys are stronger in construction. The pulley actually broke in its center ribs and then became very loose on the shaft. Figure 3 shows an earlier type pulley with larger holes that are less prone to break. In addition, you want to make sure that you use the proper sized shims.  I found out that on my car, someone had used shims that were too thin. Perhaps that added to the problem, and caused the pulley to fail. Figure 4 shows the proper sized shims for a 1974 911 motor.

Figure 5 shows the correct assembly order of the shims, pulley and belt on the shaft.  Although the factory recommends storing the extra shims on the outside of the pulley (as shown in the Figure) I don't think that this is a very wise idea.  I think that the placement of the shims on the outer part of the shaft may have contributed to the failure of my original pulley.  As shown previously in Figure 2, the shims are very worn, indicating that they were possibly spinning on the shaft.   Note that these were the extra shims on the outside that showed this characteristic wear.

 After publishing this article, Charlie Swanson made the following observations:

"The extra shims must be installed as per the factory recommendation or the washer will bottom on the shaft and won't clamp the pulley to fan. When this condition exists the pulley will be loose and wear into the shaft. It happened to me (I put the 2 extra shims in the glove box) and nearly destroyed the shaft. If you don't believe me, ask Bruce Anderson."

It would seem that the factory designed the shaft to account for the shims. Be careful to make sure that the pulley is tight if you do decide to not put all the shims on the shaft.

You begin the installation process by placing 5 shims on the shaft in-between the pulley halves.  Using the screwdriver or the pulley holding tool, tighten down the belt until it is reasonably tight. At this point, the pulley is probably compressing the belt against the fan housing, and is not completely seated.   To seat the belt, you need to rotate the engine slightly. You can accomplish this by unplugging the CD box (the small box that makes the high pitched sound, located on the left side wall of the engine compartment) and turning the engine over a few times with the starter. This should cause the belt to ride up, and prevent it from being pinched. Re-tighten the pulley after you turn the engine over. Repeat this process until the pulley nut is cannot be turned any more. At this point, the pulley should be seated up against the fan. You should be able to determine when this happens by the different pressure when tightening.

Once the pulley is tight against the fan, check the belt tension. The belt is at the correct tension when it can be deflected about one-half   to three-quarters of an inch under light thumb pressure.  If the tension is a little too loose, then remove one of the shims, and start again. Make sure that you keep turning the engine over after you tighten the pulley. This is the key to making sure that everything is tightened correctly.

Well, that's really all there is to it.  If everything is done correctly, then you should have no problems.  It's a relatively simple task, but the results of potentially messing it up are very great.  If you have any questions about this particular tech article, please feel free to ask. Remember that your continued support of Pelican Parts helps keep this web site alive and growing. Please consider us for all your 911 parts purchases.
911 Fan in Engine Compartment
Figure 1

911 Fan in Engine Compartment

Destroyed 911 Fan Pulley
Figure 2

Destroyed 911 Fan Pulley

New Pulley and Shims
Figure 3

New Pulley and Shims

New Replacement Shims
Figure 4

New Replacement Shims

911 Fan Belt Pulley Parts Exploded View
Figure 5

911 Fan Belt Pulley Parts Exploded View

Comments and Suggestions:
Lenny Comments: I just changed my pulley and all went well as my old one broke off but I have a noise in the bearing as I spin the shaft. It's not that noticeable till the car is running. Alternator is charging fine and temp is good. I suppose I must change the alternator?
March 23, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the bearing noisy or you can feel it dragging / grinding when the belt is off, I would replace it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bolt Comments: I just changed all belts on my 1991 964. The fan belt seems very loose ~ 1/2" play even with no shims between pulley halves. Belt used was your Dayco 10 X 775 Dayco, 9.5 X 776. Any advice on what could be wrong? Thanks.
December 27, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Wrong belt or worn pulleys. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Ghandi Comments: My fan belt broke. I had it replace 100 miles later the belt started to squeal. What gives ? It appear to be tight. Porches 930.
April 17, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If squealing, tension on the belt has to be adjusted. What is the tension currently at? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rob Comments: I have a 1991 - Porsche Carrera 911. The warning light of the fan belt came on so I stopped and check the belt it seems there are two: one smaller and on bigger and both working. As I was in the middle of a mountain with no reception I had to drive about 50kn back to the city. I was monitoring both pressure and temperature of the oil and everything was normal as usual. I stopped a couple of times to see if any issues but none. Can be the sensor or just the belt/belts need some tightening and I can do that myself? Thanks for your help.
March 11, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The belt sensor may require adjustment. If the belt are intact and tight, check the sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
MDR Comments: Just had the belts on my 1991 964 replaced. After 20 miles the alternator belt broke and took out the compressor belt. Turns out the alternator belt size is different for the manual vs Tiptronic versions of the 964.
June 24, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
gerryS Comments: I am replacing my alternator with a rebuilt Bosch - the 10mm 12pt is too large. I got hold of a 9mm and that is loose - has something changed on these alternators that I need to use a custom 12pt?
May 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not that I am aware of. Is your socket worn out? I usually find that is my problem when fastener seems to be an in-between size. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
johnbtrask Comments: One more comment re some very old posts.
To aid in removing the upper fan pullys on 964 and 993 models the hub shaft has a star shaped socket in the end for a Torx style wrench. When inserted it prevents the shaft from rotating while loosening the retaining nut. That tool is supplied in the OEM tool kit.
November 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
johnbtrask Comments: You should note in the article that on 1989 964 and later 993 cars, Porsche added a fan belt tension sensor. Since the original failed on my '92 964 I have replaced it two more times, first with one purchased on E-Bay which may have been a counterfeit the follower wheel came off after about two years, and again with an OEM one from Porsche which seems to be holding up fine. I also noticed an interesting phenomenon, while driving in HEAVY rain - the fan belt warning light came on intermittently until things dried out a little I pulled into a gas station to check the first time it came on and it was OK.And since the alternator and the fan are driven separately, the alternator warning light is not a backup for warning of a failed fan belt on 964s or 993s.
November 12, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
cheryl Comments: Hi, my fan belt light seems to pop up intermittently, can someone advise me what this is all about i beleive belt is still in its place.
July 12, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like the belt is loose or out of alignment. Remove some shims and that should make the belt tighter - Nick at Pelican Parts  
putt4birdie Comments: I can't turn the engine using the pulley to adjust my valves because the fan belt slips on the pulley. I have tried to put 5 shims on outer portion but this does not tighten belt enough so I am gonna replace belt. Will this work? 86 911.
January 26, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The belt may be worn. You can also try rotating the engine with a ratchet on the cranksaft pulley fastener. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Sharon Comments: Thanks so much, what a big help. This website is awsome.
July 9, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
stripey Comments: thanx,I have just had my 911s 75 alternator brushes and bearings replaced by autoelectrician, I had no idea until I read comments how little my manual warns on belt and shims although i am aware need correct tensionbut now feel confident help is available! MY problem now is sparking from a small wire on coil opposite the heavier wire that earths onto bracket could this be a coil problem or replace wire before restarting . thanx peter stripes
June 30, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Inspect the coil and wires. Once you find the source of the ignition voltage leak, replace that part. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Alan Comments: Wayne,

Above you mentioned you need both 5 and six shims in different responses, could you tell me the count for an 87 911?


June 3, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There should be six total. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BDR Comments: Thank you for all the great tips and instruction on changing
the belts on my 1979 911sc. This made the job very easy
with all your help.
I found 3 shims on the inside of pulley,and 5 shims outside
the pulley behind the nut. Is this ok to store the extra shims
Behind the nut like I found this? Thanks for all your help.
February 17, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, that is fine to leave them there. You only have to use the amount of shims needed to tension the belt correctly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
astro Comments: thanks for the info everyone. The chat stuff was like a mini masterclass, lots of intel for the dopey enthusiast like me. The fan belt changing info has been hard to find in a good format so thanks everyone. I have a 1970 911 2.2 which should run a lot better now Ta
January 15, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Fonz Comments: I have a 1987 911 Carrera Coupe and I have a 24mm nut. No issues getting it off as I have the tool and a 24mm Wrench. However, I only find 4 Shims installed. Is the 24mm size an indication of an aftermarket Alternator that might require only 4 shims? Or do I need to make certain to use all 5? I had ordered new ones anyway to replace the old in case they were too worn
December 17, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, you always need to use five. Whether there are four on the inside and one on the outside. This is a common misunderstanding and a cause for lots of engine failures when the fan belt slips off. Use a total of five all the time, but not necessarily all together (some on the inside, some on the outside). You need to move them from the inside to the outside and/or back to make the belt tighter or looser. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
customan Comments: I need to know the proper torque to tighten the nut on the alternator pulley for a 1977 911. Thanks.
October 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I found a spec stating 55Nm. I would confirm this with the factory repair information. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
johnbtrask Comments: With respect to "5mm belt thumb pressure belt deflection" you have to use a DIN 674-9887/1985 thumb.
September 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Good one! I use a belt gauge myself. But you could measure it with a small ruler. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
johnbtrask Comments: I'm putting a 993 AC system into my 964. One of the last things I have to do is put on the v belt from the crank to the compressor. but the stock 964 belt 12.5 x 1080 I believe is too short, even with the compressor positioned all the way to the left. I measured the diameter of the pulley on the 993 compressor and it's maybe 5 mm larger in diameter than the 964 that was on my car. Here's the question what's the size of the drive pulley on the 993 crank?
If it's the same, as the 964 than no problem the compressor will run faster, but if its not than did Porsche make some design change with respect to compressor vs engine RPM that I have to be aware of?
September 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't be 100% sure on the changes between the two. However, to get the right belt, use a piece of rope and measure the length around the pulleys, then locate a belt of the appropriate size. once you measure, give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can find the right belt.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
clydesdale Comments: Oh, I see - you need this tool:

Pelican Part# PEL-TOL-P209

You need this for '75-'89 911s. Note this differs from the writeup above on how to change the belt - vs. the screwdriver in the pulley hole or the proper tool. Might be good to add that note to the article above, may save folks some confusion. ;

May 6, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
clydesdale Comments: I have the same issue as kenstep2it from July 11, 2009. I have a 1978 Porsche 911 SC w/ air conditioning. I think the A/C has a different pulley fixture which allows it to drive the compressor and this seems to block access to the holes where the pulley tool would go. Like kenstep2it, I see a bolt with a star shaped center that the pulley nut screws on. And the pulley nut is 24mm in this case, not 22mm.

I also notice on the pulley extension for the A/C belt, 2 holes that you could potentially get a tool on to hold it from spinning - but these holes face each other - you can stick a screw driver in one hole and out the other, but that would block access to the pulley nut which would be directly behind your screwdriver blade at that point. Seems like a C shaped tool with pins would be necessary to hold the pulley if using those.

Very hard to get the pulley nut off w/out some sort of proper tool. I've tried belt wrenches, oil filter wrenches, etc. to hold the pulley, but they all end up slipping at some point.

Any ideas would be really appreciated.
May 4, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will need this tool: ?pn=PEL-TOL-P209&catalog_description=Alternator%20Pulley%20Wrench%2C%20911%20%281975-89%29 Pelican Part# PEL-TOL-P209 - Nick at Pelican Parts  
lundy Comments: 964 c4:The wheel bearing on my belt sensor sender has shagged and seized causing significant wear thru the belt closest to the engine. I am attempting to remove the belts and replace the inner most belt . I have removed the a/c belt and removed the locknut from the outermost pulley as per all the instructions but I cannot remove the remaining pulley apparatus having removed the locknut which was extremetly tight. I thought it would just pull off, not so. It feels really snug with the belt still insitu . Any tips? Thanks.
Also , I have put the part number for the" sender" into the Pelican Parts Catalog with no joy.964 106 035 07 Has the part number been changed. Please clarify part number. ta
April 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If replacing the old belt, you can cut it off. The pulley should release once the pressure is removed.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts
vracer Comments: I have an '89 with A/C. Do I have to, or can I? loosen & remove the A/C and belt to get to the fan belt?
April 2, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, that should be no problem - simply remove the A/C belt to gain access. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
porman 965 Comments: I drove my 911/965 turbo from Guildford to Uxbridge on M25/M40, a distance of around 18 miles, with no fan belt it snapped at junction 10 .I was under the assumption that engine relied on ram effect with fan cutting in when in traffic or stationary. Was I lucky or do you think I have damaged engine. I am intending to drive car to garage to have new belt fitted. Should I not or will it be ok.
January 18, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Zero miles is what you should drive on a broken fan belt. You're not correct on the ram air function - this is bad advice that you got from somewhere. The cylinders of the engine are cooled by air and nothing else. If your fan belt breaks, then your engine will overheat even if it's just idling. No miles are okay to drive with a broken fan belt - I personally cooked an engine when I didn't realize the lights were on, on the dash. When I pulled over to a gas station and popped the hood, the oil was sizzling in the engine like one of those old Valvoline commercials. 50 miles later I had about 7 pulled head studs and a completely destroyed engine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
chappy Comments: can anyone tell me the proper size belt for a 1984 930 flatnose gemballa. the belt i got from porsche part #999 192 176 50 is too small and causes the fan to touch the bottom of the cowling, but a delco 15270 is to big. i even tried it with no shims but it still binds.any ideas
January 11, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fan should never touch the housing, regardless of what size belt you are using. If it does, then you might have a cracked housing that is allowing the alternator / fan assembly to wobble. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Doug Chrisey Comments: My '95 911 Carrera 4 inner belt broke off. Now I replace them both twice and each time the outer belt burns off due to friction. Why do the two different size pulleys on the alternator spin at the same speed and cause this?
December 5, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I sent this one over to my buddy Tony Callas at Callas Rennsport, and here was his response:

The 993 drive belt system design was originally released on the 964 models in 1989 and ended production with the 1998 1993. This system consists of a total of three drive belts, one for the A/C compressor off towards the passenger side of the vehicle and a separate drive belt for each the engine cooling fan and alternator (generator). The fan drive belt was monitored by a tension sensor with roller to warn the driver of any tension deficiency in the fan drive belt via a warning light in the clock assembly.

The separate fan and alternator drive belts utilized different size pulleys in an effort to speed up the rotational speed of the cooling fan while not effecting the alternator speed. The key component of these two drive belts is in what we call the fan hub bearing. If the fan hub bearing is faulty or worn at all, it will take out the alternator drive belt so we recommend to inspect the fan hub bearing very closely when the drive belts are being replaced. Over the years, aftermarket manufacturers have caused various issues with this design all stemming from incorrect manufacturing tolerances and components i.e. incorrect bearing retaining cir-clips to inferior or damaged bearings. These poorly manufactured fan hub bearings have broken many alternator drive belts (but intermittently) and on various occasions the alternator belt debris has have been known to take out the fan drive belt due to its close proximity. Because of this we recommend utilizing only Porsche factory fan hub bearings.

There was a factory Porsche bulletin issued instructing to replace the alternator drive belt pulleys (2) with a Porsche supplied fatter/thicker component. At the same time they recommend removing the retaining nut shim.

I hope this helps,


Tony Callas
Callas Rennsport
Voice 310-370-7038

- Wayne at Pelican Parts
hdrockerroller Comments: I was able to get the stuck fan nut off without the holding tool using a rather unconventional means. I used a plastic coated dog tie out cable to do it.

First, since I was replacing the fan belt anyway, I cut the old one off to get it out of the way. Next I looped the dog leash around the AC bracket compressor was removed at the time, then looped it around the fan pully and turned the pulley until the cable wrapped over itself and began to pull tight. Next I used a very long and large ratcheting breaker bar to take up the cable slack until the pulley would not turn any more. Then kept applying gradual force to the wrench, watching the cable and alternator mount to make sure nothing was bending. After a bit, the nut broke loose, and there you have it.
November 3, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
hdrockerroller Comments: I'm trying to loosen the nut on 1983 porsche 911 fan.
So far I have managed only to break the holding tool.

Any suggestions?
November 1, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could try to gently apply some force using an impact wrench, or exchange the tool for a new one? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
duc99804 Comments: Hi, my fan belt light seems to pop up intermittently, can someone advise me what this is all about i beleive belt is still in its place.
September 29, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is a sensor that rides on the belt to alert you of a failure. It may be out of adjustment or faulty. It is a small plastic wheel mounted to a bracket. It ride on the fan belt. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
CatbusMike Comments: On the 1973.5 engine the nut is 24mm and I'm pretty sure it's original.
I was too impatient to wait for the proper tool.
The screwdriver trick didn't give me enough torque, but a cobbled together tool did the trick. I drilled 2 holes in a piece of iron angle stock and loosely fitted 2 short bits of 5/16ths rod. This gave me enough torque without twisting out of my hand.
FWIW, the holes measure 0.35 inch ~9mm diameter.
Their centers are 2.06 inch ~52 mmapart across the nut.
Every 2nd hole is 1.948mminch apart at the centers spacing fo the tool.
Measurements made with an very old inches caliper in less than ideal conditions.
September 2, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Jerome74911S Comments: My pulley holding tool wouldn't fit into the holes in the pulley, because the two pulley halves were misaligned. This is caused by wear in the flat part of the alternator shaft. Does this mean a whole new shaft in the alternator?
July 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Someone else had this problem very recently, they had to have their shaft welded to fix the problem. Remember to always use six shims no matter what - extra shims go on the outside of the pulley, and prevent the nut from bottoming out on the lower portion of the threads. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
jwakil Comments: According to Bentley, the midway belt deflection under thumb pressure should only be 5mm, which is less than a quarter of an inch.
July 26, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: True, but how can you assign a spec of "5mm" when your applying "thumb pressure." What is thumb pressure? Really, it's very subjective... - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
retired bill Comments: I upgraded the alternator on my '74 911, from a 55 amp to a 70 amp. The new amp is bigger and now the alternator pulley does not line up with the bottom pulley attached to the crank. It looks like I need a special spacer with a pin on one side and notch on the other to allow me to properly fit and align the two pulleys. The special spacer would need to be about 1 centimeter thick. Any suggestions??
September 29, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would double check to make sure the alternator is properly seated in the fan housing - I have not heard of this problem before? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
feds Comments: I need to replace the bottom pulley attached to the crankshaft, I have gotten the old one off, but am having difficulty figuring out how to get the new one on. Any thoughts? wondering if the engine is generally dropped to do such a thing? '85 911
September 24, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The new one should just bolt on - there is a locating pin that needs to line up with a small hole in the crankshaft. Perhaps you're missing the pin or not seeing the hole? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
73ess Comments: The fan belt nut size on my '88 930 is 24mm, not 22mm. Not sure if it's the original, but pretty certain it is. Perhaps the 930's use a larger size nut?
September 22, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. I have seen them both sizes, not 100% sure if it was different on your model. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kenstep2it Comments: You know you're in trouble when you get stuck on item one of step one. Remove fan belt nut. Mine is a 93 and there are no holes in my pulley to use to secure it, but a bolt with a star shaped center. Guess step one for me is "go tool shopping".
July 11, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What year is your 911, can you post a pic to share? Let me know, and I can send you a link to the tool in our catalog. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
laketrout Comments: I have read the article on 911 fan belt and pulley replacement. Does that article apply to 1987 911's.
May 19, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, this does apply for almost all of the 911s with air cooled fans. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Wed 2/21/2018 02:20:22 AM