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Rebuilding your Pedal Cluster

Pelican Technical Article:

Rebuilding your Pedal Cluster


4 hr






Bench vise, hammer, hand drill

Applicable Models:

Porsche 911 (1965-89)
Porsche 912 (1965-69)
Porsche 930 Turbo (1976-89)

Parts Required:

Bronze bushing kit, new pedal rubber, black paint, white lithium grease

Hot Tip:

If you can't easily get out the press pin, take it to your local machine shop

Performance Gain:

No more squeaky pedals, no more binding pedals

Complementary Modification:

Replace your clutch cable, check/replace your master cylinder
101 Projects for Your Porsche 911

This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's book, 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911. The book contains 240 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any Porsche 911 owner's collection. See The Official Book Website for more details.

Very often on the older 911s, the pedal cluster will have a tendency to stick and bind. This is often caused by rainwater leaks starting to rust out the assembly, or a master cylinder that has leaked corrosive brake fluid over the bushings. The original pedal clusters were installed with plastic bushings that have a tendency to wear away during many years of repeated use. Rebuilding the entire assembly with newer bronze bushings is an easy and straightforward process, and can possibly solve some of your shifting and clutch problems as well.

Your pedal cluster should be rebuilt with the newer, aftermarket bronze bushings. Not only will these bushings perform better than the stock plastic ones, but they should also last a lot longer over a greater length of time. Replacing the plastic bushings should also assure that your pedals will not squeak anymore, or worse, get stuck in the down position. In addition to the bronze bushing kit, you will also need some new rubber pedal pads, some black paint, and some white lithium grease for lubricating the entire assembly.

Removal of the pedal cluster is not too difficult, but can be tricky if you haven't done it before. The first thing to do is to remove the carpet, the wooden floorboard, and disconnect the clutch cable. See Project 40 for more information on this procedure. Now, you need to unbolt the assembly from the car. The pedal cluster and the master cylinder are bolted together on the early cars, so you need to disconnect the master cylinder in order to remove the pedal cluster. This is accomplished by removing the two nuts that attach the master cylinder to the pedal cluster. These two nuts can be reached from underneath the car, after removing the belly pan that covers the steering rack. To actually remove the cluster from the car, you may also have to unbolt and disconnect the accelerator pedal as well. It would be advisable to take a vacuum cleaner and clean out the area near the cluster before you remove it. This will make the job a lot more pleasant, and will also prevent you from tracking dirt and other debris across the interior of your car when you remove the cluster. Make sure that you unhitch both the clutch cable and accelerator cable as well. See Project 9 for more details.

Once you have the pedal cluster removed from your car, take it over to your workbench, and begin the disassembly. A roll pin that is pressed into the end of the clutch pedal holds the majority of the cluster together. The first step to try for removing the roll pin is to place a bolt on one end and tap it carefully with a hammer. Make sure that the base of the clutch pedal is firmly mounted in a vise so that you don't dent, damage, or bend any of the parts on the cluster. Tapping the pin with a hammer might make it move slightly, but in most cases probably wont be enough to remove it.

Another removal method involves drilling the inside of the pin out before trying to remove it. Get a few new steel drill bits (and plan on destroying them in this process), and start by drilling inside the roll pin. The pin has a hollow center, so it should be relatively easy to get the drill bit started in the pin. Drill out the pin by increasing the size of the drill bit that you use, until the inside of the pin is significantly larger in diameter. Now, the pin should be easier to press out. Try to tap it out with a hammer, or you can place it in a vise with a screw behind the roll pin and compress the vise until the pin is pressed out. If all else fails, you can probably take it to your local machine shop, where they have the proper tools to press out the pin in about 1 minute.

Once you have the roll pin out, then the rest of the cluster should come apart quite easily. Remove the nut that holds on the inner cylinder of the cluster and pull it out. At this point it should be easy to completely disassemble the entire cluster. Take a screwdriver and remove all of the older plastic bushings. At this time, you might want to take your pedal cluster parts to your local machine shop to have it sand blasted and painted. This gives it a very nice appearance, and will also protect it from rust in the future.

Once the parts are cleaned up, insert the new bushings into the cluster. Refer to the photo and diagram in this section for the exact location of where each bushing is to be installed. Make sure that you place a light coat of white lithium grease on all the bushings in the cluster. The bushings themselves should not require too much force to be pressed into their mating surfaces.

Once you have the bushings installed, reassemble the cluster and carefully install the brake pedal and clutch pedal spring. Make sure that you inspect the two springs to assure that they haven't been damaged or corroded to the point where they might fail. It's a wise idea to renew both these springs while you have the pedal cluster apart.

While you have the cluster out and apart, it's also a good idea to test and adjust your brake pedal switch. On the earlier 911s, this switch is activated by the brake pedal and triggers the rear brake lights. Check to make sure that the switch is operational, and adjust it if the actuation point is not exactly where you think it should be.

It's also a good time to replace the pedal pad rubber on your cluster. The old ones simply slide off the back of the pedals, and the new rubber is pressed and fit onto the pedal with a little bit of effort.

Reassembly into the car is similar to the removal procedure. Make sure that you properly reattach your clutch cable, throttle cable, and remount the master cylinder. Make sure that you don't wrap the throttle cable around the clutch cable. If this happens, when you push in the clutch, the engine will speed up.

Before you reinstall the cluster, inspect the front floor of the car. If the area under the cluster is rusty, then you might want to consider some preventative maintenance through the use of some sand paper and rust prevention paint.

With the floorboards removed, you can see the pedal cluster.
Figure 1

With the floorboards removed, you can see the pedal cluster. The plastic bushings that were originally used as OEM equipment have probably worn out a long time ago. Before you remove and disassemble the cluster, make sure that the bushings have not already been replaced with the bronze ones by a previous owner.

It's a wise idea to closely examine your pedal cluster prior to disassembly so that you're familiar with how it is supposed to be reassembled.
Figure 2

It's a wise idea to closely examine your pedal cluster prior to disassembly so that you're familiar with how it is supposed to be reassembled. The location and orientation of the pedal springs looks obvious when the assembly is together, but once it's in pieces, it can be difficult to determine which part goes where. Refer to this photo when reassembling the pedal cluster, or take some photos of your own during the process. The top half of the photo shows the proper orientation of the clutch pedal return spring, whereas the bottom half shows the proper installation of the brake pedal return spring.

This photo shows the pedal cluster completely disassembled.
Figure 3

This photo shows the pedal cluster completely disassembled. The bronze bushing kit contains 7 new bushings that need to be installed into the cluster. Shown by the arrows in the picture, these bushings should easily slide into the pedal cluster, and don't need to be tapped in with a large amount of force.

Starting in 1977, the clutch return spring was moved to the outside of the pedal cluster.
Figure 4

Starting in 1977, the clutch return spring was moved to the outside of the pedal cluster. This heavy-duty spring is very difficult to install, and usually requires the work of two very strong people to wrestle it into place. One person must pull and stretch the spring, while the other person guides it onto its hook.

This diagram shows an exploded view of the pedal cluster assembly.
Figure 5

This diagram shows an exploded view of the pedal cluster assembly. Different year cars may have slightly different configurations, but the general design and assembly is the same for all the 911s. This diagram shows the pedal cluster assembly for 911s 1974 and later. The main difference from the early cars is the installation of a stronger clutch pedal helper spring. This helper spring can be very difficult to put on, and usually requires two people to complete the task. 1-Bolt, M6x25, 2-Washer, 3-Throttle pedal, 4-Throttle pedal stop, 5-Throttle control link, 6-Throttle control rod, 7-Clevis pin, 8-Nut, M8, 9-Lock washer, 10-Washer, 11-Nut, M8, 12-Lock washer, 13-Support, 14-Dust Boot, 15-Cotter pin for actuating rod, 16-Washer, 17-Intermediate piece, 18-Nut, M10, 19-Actuating rod, 20-Stoplight switch actuating washer, 21-Spring, 22-Cotter pin for bell crank, 23-Washer, 24-Bell Crank, 25-Bushing (Replace with bronze bushing), 26-Rubber Stop, 27-Slotted screw M4x10, 28-External tooth lock washer, 29-Stoplight switch, 30-Roll pin, 31-Clutch pedal, 32-Clutch pedal shaft, 33-Bushing, 34-Nut, M8, 35-Lock washer, 36-Support tube, 37-Bushing (Replace with bronze bushing), 38-Rubber stop, 39-Brake pedal, 40-Return spring, 41-Bushing (Replace with bronze bushing)

Comments and Suggestions:
JDC Comments: Update- next day went at it again and released the arm that goes to the gas pedal by pushing forward toward the round end of the ball cup The ball cup on the throttle cable was frozen, so I could not release this one. I was about to cut the ball cup with a cut off wheel and was spinning it to get the correct position and it fell off. The last time I felt this good about a 911 was when I broke the top barrel nut loose on the starter. These cars were not designed to repair but with the help of the forums it is hard but not impossible .
August 9, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
JDC911 Comments: I have spent 3 hours trying to disconnect the throttle cable from my 1985 Carrera from the worn out throttle reverse lever and it seems like it is not going to happen.I turned it and it went about an inch out then seems like I will run out of beer before the part comes out. I am starting to hate these cars ,there is a lot of Rube Goldberg in the design and this is my 3rd one. Any idea why it won't unscrew ?
August 9, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Possible it is unscrewed but binding on opposite end. I would pull as you unscrew. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mchan Comments: thanks in your reply of my posting, just to follow up, the pedal link rod has a eye ball socket and when push in, the eye socket will pop right into the pod hole behind the pedal
June 13, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The socket is either worn out, or missing the circlip that holds it in place. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mchan Comments: Nick How does the throttle link rod stay connect to the gas pedal, my 75 targa has the link rod insert into the back of the pedal, however it drops off often I am not sure how to make it stay in the hole of the pedal at the top
June 9, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There should be a retaining clip. can you share a photo of it installed, I may be able to tell what is missing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mooney265 Comments: Thanks Nick. I ordered the set which "popped up" - - looks to be correct. Thank you.
April 19, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Ok, glad to help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Shannon Comments: What is the Pelican part number for the rebuild kit consisting of 7 brass bushings?
April 18, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Without your vehicle info I can't use the look up tool on the page. If you go to this page, on the right side are the parts. enter your vehicle info, the part numbers will show up

To be sure you found the right ones, Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799

- Nick at Pelican Parts
gamin Comments: In the workshop manual there is a rubber stop/sleeve part no. 901-423-193-00. I don't see it in the exploded view of the pedal cluster illustrated above. Where does this rubber piece get installed?
February 10, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: ?pn=901-423-193-00-OEM&SuperCat=Y&SVSVSI=801&catalog_description=Rubber%20Stop%2C%20%39%31%31%2F%39%31%31%20Turbo%20%28%31%39%37%34%2D%38%39%29 - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Joshua Comments: Im looking for the part number and dimensions of this piece.
February 3, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Measure it, only way to know. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Joshua Comments: In figure 2 is there anywhere where I can find the dimensions of the plate where everything connects into? the largest piece in the picture. This is for an engineering project. thanks
February 3, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Buy the part, then measure. I don't have dimension info, it isn't published. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Kim Comments: Two Questions. I have a 66-67 912. Want to convert it to a right hand drive. Will a 911 sc pedal cluster fit?
Also will I need a booster servo ???
December 2, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not 100% sure. I don't believe it will. I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Tculling Comments: Has anyone found an easy way to put on the extremely stiff clutch spring. You mention two people to do the job but do you put the spring on after you have remounted the clutch assembly to the car or before rmounting the assembly. Tom
February 7, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not sure. I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Nick @ Pelicanparts Comments: Enough spam please. 911 Technical is getting filled with noob questions
May 28, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: When dealing with DIYs we have to help a range of people with varying technical abilities - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Wigger Comments: How does the the pedal assembly communicate with the engine? Cable ? How does that attach to the pedal assembly
January 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes there is a cable that attaches the throttle pedal to the engine's throttle linkage. The pedal side of the cable is attached similar to the clutch. Look at tech procedure #9 - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bud Comments: What could cause my weber equipped 911's throttle to stick wide open when I start the engine? I've checked for bindings at both the pedal end and the carb end. I can't find any binding.
August 8, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can try a stronger return spring at the carb end and also see if the cam movement is greater that 90 degrees. This will cause the cam to want to rest the other way instead of returning to where it is at idle. Also see if engine torque is overcoming the engine mounts and allowing the engine to move and pull on the throttle linkage. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Mon 1/22/2018 02:01:10 AM