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E30 Front Springs and Shock Replacement

Pelican Technical Article:

E30 Front Springs and Shock Replacement

Jared Fenton


2-3 hours






Channel locks, 13mm socket, ratchet, 15mm socket, 15mm open-end wrench, floor jack and two jack stands, electric impact wrench, WD-40, spring compressor, 19mm socket, tie rod puller, torque wrench, newspaper, wheel chocks

Applicable Models:

BMW E30 3-Series (1984-93)

Parts Required:

Bilstein heavy duty front shocks and Eibach sport spring set

Performance Gain:

A nice firm and sporty ride with a lowered appearance

Complementary Modification:

Replace the rear shocks and springs
101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series

This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.

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One of the best things you can do to improve the performance of your car is to replace or upgrade your vehicle’s suspension. In this case, we will focus on replacing the front shocks and springs on my 325is. This also applies to other E30 models as well.

As you can see in this first photo, this is my car prior to the installation (Figure 1). The suspension on the car had seen better days. I continually noticed that the car would pitch and roll over nearly every bump in the road, indicating that the shocks were blown.

I decided to replace the stock suspension setup with a set of Bilstein Sport Shocks (Figure 2) and Eibach Performance Springs. My intention was to create a suspension that I could comfortably enjoy on the street, and still retain the option to take it out to the track if I choose to do so. Also, E30’s just look killer when dropped.

The first step is to remove the bolt covers on the wheels. (Applies only to “is” style wheels). Use a set of channel locks to rotate the hub caps and remove them. See Figure 3 and Figure 4. While the vehicle is still on the ground, loosen up all the lug bolts (Figure 5). You’ll find this difficult to do when the front wheels are up in the air, unless you have an impact wrench. Next find a suitable jacking point on the front of the car. In this case, the frame rail directly behind the control arm rear bushing (Figure 6). Whenever you jack up a car, always try to find a point that is part of the vehicle’s structure, other wise you risk putting a nice dent in your floorboards or worse. It’s a good idea to use a piece of newspaper in between the jack and the frame as well, to prevent cutting through undercoating or scratching up the bottom of the car. You’ll want to now jack the wheels up off the ground, enough to where you can get jackstands underneath the car. The points for the factory jack in the trunk are a good place to secure them as seen in the picture (Safety Note: ALWAYS use jack stands, trust me on this. I have a puncture scar on my right hand because I didn’t use them one time, jacks DO fail. A jack stand distributes the weight evenly and prevents such injuries or worse.)

Once you have all the wheels off, thread the lug bolts back into the hub to keep from losing them, and store the tires out of the way. You will now see the front brake calipers (Figure 7). The next step is to remove the upper part of the caliper and mount it out of the way. This is done by rotating the steering wheel so that you have access to the two 13mm bolts on the upper and lower sides of the caliper. You will need to use a 15mm open-end wrench to hold the locknut on the inside of these bolts. Now remove the bolts (Figure 8). You will now be able to slide the caliper back and off it’s mounting bracket. On the driver’s side, you will also have to unplug the brake wear indicator sensor (Figure 9). It simply unplugs. Once you have the calipers free of the bracket, use a zip tie to secure it out of the way and avoid having it hang by the brake line.

Once the brake calipers are secured out of the way, the next step is to remove the tie rods. In order to do this, you will need to loosen and remove the 19mm self-locking nut at the top, then using a tie rod puller, or “pickle fork” remove the tie rod from the control arm hub (Figure 10). Place the pickle fork between the tie rod and the arm, and tap it with a large hammer. You may need to give the pickle fork a few whacks with a hammer to seat it in between the tie rod and the control arm hub, but after you get it in there deep enough, simply pushing down with force on the arm should separate the tapered end of the tie rod out of the control arm hub (Figure 11). Now you will be able to rotate the strut and it will ease removal (Figure 12).

The next step is to remove the front sway bar drop link from the control arm. This will allow you to lower the control arm all the way to its lowest position once you remove the mounting bolts at the top. To remove the bolt, simply look under the control arm and remove the 19mm nut that holds the drop link to the control arm (Figure 13). The overall goal is to allow the strut to rotate far enough outward to replace the shocks.

Now we move onto compressing the front springs. It is crucial that you compress the springs as much as possible while the springs are still in the car, to take the spring tension off the top strut mount. Be prepared to spend quite a bit of time compressing the springs. It is a slow-going job. I highly recommend wearing goggles while doing this. Remember that these springs are under extreme tension. Tighten each compressor in even turns on each side to prevent the compressors from slipping off and potentially caus major injury. Just think of the force felt in the car when you go over a bump at high speed, that same kinetic energy will be directed in your general direction if a compressor slips (Figure 14).

Once you have the springs compressed fully, the next step is to remove the three nuts that hold the top strut mount to the chassis, and lower the strut (Figure 15). It’s a good idea to have someone hold the strut assembly from below as you lower it down. Once you have it lowered down, you will want to remove the 19mm nut that holds the strut rod in the mount. In this case an impact wrench is handy to quickly pop the nut free (Figure 16). If you don't have an impact wrench, you will have to hold the center of the shock in place with a set of channel locks, or a special shock-holding tool.

Once you have the nut off, the control arm should be lowered as far as it will drop, this will allow you enough clearance to remove the rest of the assembly. Next, reach up inside the spring perch and remove the top strut mount; you may need to move the strut assembly to one side to gain access to this mount. Once you have it removed, also remove the upper spring retainer plate and rubber gasket (Figure 17).

Now you are ready to actually remove the old strut. Simply remove the old dust cover around the strut rod, and you will see a threaded collar that holds the strut inside the strut housing. Spray a little WD-40 around the threads before removing it to prevent stripping out the inside of the housing. There is a special tool for removing this collar, however I believe it is much easier to use either a plumber’s wrench or a large pair of channel locks to loosen and remove the collar. Once the collar is removed, simply pull up on the strut; it should lift up and out of the housing. Have an assistant pull it up through the strut perch and out through the top. Be aware that there will most likely be oil on the strut itself, so have an oil pan ready.

Once the strut is removed, you should be able to simply pull the old spring off the top of the housing. Now the housing will rotate towards you (Figure 18). Look down the inside of the strut, there should be oil inside there. This usually does not indicate that the struts are leaking, as the oil is there to act as both a lubricant and a cushion for the strut. If you are using hydraulic struts, you will need to drain out all the old oil using a siphon, and refill the housing with about 1/4 quart of new oil. Regular motor oil is recommended for this. If you are using gas pressure struts, such as the Bilstein Sports Shocks we are using, then DO NOT re-fill the housing with oil, as you can damage the shocks.

In this case, I decided to switch the springs at the same time from the stock BMW units, to Eibach Performance Springs. These lowering springs drop the car approx. 1.8 inches in the front and 1.5 inches in the rear. They also improve the handling characteristics of the car greatly. If you are re-using your old springs, simply put them back in position on top of the strut housings, making sure that the spring seats correctly on the rubber spacer.

If you are using new springs, remove the compressors very slowly, once again using caution to remove tension equally on both sides, then install the compressors on the new spring and tighten the compressors til the new spring reaches full compression (Figure 19). A wrench with a built-in racheting function (like the GearWrenches) is very useful at this point.

Now the new or old spring should be placed on top of the strut housing, and rotate the whole unit back into position under the strut perch (Figure 20).

Now, with the unit lined up under the perch, simply slide the new shock down through the top of the car, through the perch, and down into the strut housing. You may need a helper to do this (Figure 21). Once the new shock is in place, slide the new threaded collar over the shock rod and thread it onto the strut housing and tighten it using either a plumber’s wrench or a pair of large channel locks. Once the collar is tight, lower the protective boot (light blue, as shown in photo), through the top of the car, over the shock and slide it over the shock rod. This will protect the shock insert from dirt and grime, potentially causing the shock to fail (Figure 22). If you are installing standard shocks, the dust boot, and rubber bottom-out collar are integrated together. The Bilstein Sport Shocks have this rubber stop built-in to the shock.

Once the protective boot is in place, place the upper spring retainer plate on top of the spring making sure the rubber gasket is in place, and the spring is seated correctly on the plate. Move the whole assembly to one side and slide the strut mount up into the spring perch and carefully place it over the strut rod. Next, you will want to thread the new 19mm self-locking nut on the top of the strut rod, and hit it with an impact wrench to tighten it (Figure 23).

Once the shock rod nut is tight, have an assistant raise the strut assembly up into the spring perch; you’ll see that the upper strut mount is indexed to fit only a certain way into the chassis. Simply rotate the upper mount til it lines up, and then carefully move the strut assembly up into the perch till the studs protrude out the top. Simply re-attach the three nuts that hold it place and tighten them up real well (Figure 24).

Now that we have the strut assembly secure in the perch we can remove the spring compressors. Yet again, use caution while doing this, remembering to loosen using equal turns on either side. Once the compressors are removed, the strut assembly should look similar to Figure 25.

The next step is to reattach the sway bar drop links. Simply line up the thread on the bottom of the link and place it through the hole on the control arm. Install the 19mm nut on the bottom and tighten it (Figure 26). Using an impact wrench is best here, as you don't need to hold the shock steady.

You now will need to re-attach the tie rods, rotate the strut for access, the line up the tie rod and push the tapered stud through the control arm hub. You will need to place a jack under the tie rod to hold it in place and prevent the threaded portion from rotating as you install the 19mm self-locking nut. It’s also a good idea to use new self-locking nuts when you do this to prevent them from loosening up (Figure 27).

Once these steps are complete, you will now need to re-attach the brake caliper. Simply place the brake pads on the caliper mounting plate on either side of the brake rotor, and then slide the caliper over the pads, making sure the pads are seated correctly. Once the caliper is installed, line up the mounting holes, then re-install the two 13mm nuts, and using a 15mm open-end wrench, hold the lock nuts as you tighten the mounting bolts. Be sure to also reconnect the brake pad wear indicator on the driver’s side.

The final result should look like Figure 28.

The last step is to simply re-attach the wheel, and then torque the lug bolts to the factory recommended setting. After the tires are installed, the next step is to take the car to an alignment shop to have toe-in re-adjusted for the new suspension geometry. Failure to do this will result in increased wear on your tires.

The following pictures show the finished result, a huge improvement in the overall look of the car in my opinion. Performance wise, the car now has outstanding handling, the pitching and rolling is gone, and the car feels incredibly stable.

Figure 29: 325is lowered after installation.

Figure 30: 325is side rear view, lowered after installation.

Figure 31: 325is front close-up, lowered after installation.

If anyone has any questions regarding installation feel free to email me at The Pelican Parts Message Center


This technical article is made possible solely through the support of Pelican Parts. If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.

Comments and Suggestions:
Liakos Comments: Hi there, great write up. What needs to be done differently on an iX vehicle?
April 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What model and year Xi? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Daveeeeee30 Comments: Hi, just to let you know that this article was absolutely vital when I came to overhauling my car's suspension. For that I thank you. That said, I have a clunking noise coming from my front right corner. My research has led me to believe that it is probably the collar. How can this be tightened? And how tight ?
almost everything was changed - shocks, springs, mounts and bushings. Noise happened right after all the work
June 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Collar? What do you think is loose? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Russell Comments: Is the threaded collar that holds the strut inside the strut housing necessary? A week after I installed new shocks and springs, the right one popped out. It has not affected the driving except for a rattling noise. My plan was to try to force it in one time as probably both the nut and strut housing are stripped. If that doesn't work then I'll just remove it and go without.
March 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You didn't mention what vehicle you are working on. Regardless of the vehicle, yes, you need that part. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
escalantev Comments: Hi, I recently upgraded my suspension with lower springs and shocks 1.6 inch drop. Looks very sharp and handles great but it got stiffer than I planned; its very rough on bumps and holes. Is there a way to make it softer? doing something with the shocks shortening them a little for example… Thank you for any help you can deliver
September 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The spring rate has changed, increasing the stiffness. You can look into a shock that is designed for lower springs or a spring with a better ride. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Wazza Comments: hey guys, i have a 1988 325 cabrio and looking at replacing with a complete coilover system. Ive not been told there are 2 offsets from the hub, 30 and 52 offset., Ive got not clue which 1 my E30 is. Any idea how to measure this?
April 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Rob Comments: I recently replaced the Struts and socks on my 325is. After I did I noticed that there is a squeaking sound coming from that area. It almost sounds like something is lose. I rechecked everything and it seems fine, any suggestions?
January 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be a dry ball joint. Inspect the ball joints for dust (rust) or binding. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bandanaman Comments: Thanks Nick but I guess you didn't understand the question, no worries I've found out now so will enlighten you and who ever else has same agg I had. Basically the 6 coil springs are m-tec spec...Cheers
December 7, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bandanaman Comments: Hi.... Ive just had nightmare trying to the top of strut threw rubber mounting after putting new spring on. Got to 10pm and had to give up till tomorrow. It was only then I compared new spring to old one and discovered New spring has 7 rings and my old one has 6 rings. My car is 1986 pre face lift 325i baur cabrio. I also have a 1986 pre facelift 2 door 320i that has been my donor car for body parts etc so I looked at front strut springs on that and that also has 6 rings same as mine.
I note the springs you used have 7 rings and your e30 is facelift model so my question is do all prefacelift e30's have 6 ring springs and all facelift e30's have 7 ring springs? Excellent article even if didn't work out for me, yet!Have attached pic so you can see theres quite a difference.. Cheers
December 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: When changing springs, you have to use factory-spec parts AND also measure ride-height afterwards. Grab a manual to find out the specified ride height for your vehicle. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
M3 Comments: Hello ! I'm working on a 1991 M3, a few questions..
1 If I replace my front w Bilsteins Sport Package, would lowering this car seem wrong being that its an M3 ?
2 If changing the rear Coils and shocks w Bilsteins Sport Pack, would I have to toy w Camber or anything else or is it a direct replace and then complete ?
3I see on the Front shock under the bearing some old Bushing, w replacing w Bilstein shocks, do I need this Bushing ?Not the one with a bearing on it
September 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can go lower than a stock M3.

Lowering the car will give you more camber and you should get a wheel alignment.

If you see a worn bushing you should replace it - Kerry at Pelican Parts
john Comments: Hi Nick, my son and I are about to refresh the front end on our recently bought 1987 318i. Evenually we plan on using shorter springs but for now, plan to just do the struts and all the rubber bushings. The question is, if we buy a nice set of Bilstein struts to match the existing spring height, can the same shocks be used with shorter springs later? Also, I have heard that some Bilsteins are now made in China. Can you confirm which Bilsteins are available that suit our BMW and that they are made in Germany!Many thanks John
August 5, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: if the Bilstein you want is specified to work with stock and lowered coils, you should be OK. A lot of folks run a shorter coil on stick shocks, so I imagine it would be OK. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you sort out where the parts are made. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Yasser Comments: I have a 1991, but says build 1990/5 318is BMW . Also if it matters engine has been converted to 6cyl. Im not sure which suspension and coil overs required regarding size. As options i have is either a 51mm and 45mm. How should i know. thank
June 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The 45mm springs are for the 318, the 51mm are for the 6 cylinder or if you want a stiffer ride. Their meant to carry more weight. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JPECaterham Comments: I have a E30 318i 1990 series 2 and i am too looking at lowering it. i'm unsure wether i'll need a camber kit for front and rear if i lower it by 1.25-1.50" any helpwould be much appreciated. i will be using the sports pack with bilstein shocks frm turner motorsport.
November 1, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes you will need a camber kit otherwise you will prematurely wear out the inside of your tires. Also you will be able to adjust camber if you do any racing events. Remember a slight amount of camber is better for turns but not on straightaways. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
horrorbiz Comments: It is really not necessary to remove the tie-rod at all. You will find the strut assembly easily falls outward with the tie-rod intact.
July 13, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. I bet your comment helps someone get the job done a little faster. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rick Comments: One very important point for getting seated tie rods off or control arms. Use heat. If you have a good heat gun, apply heat for a few minutes directly on to the strut or control arm near the bolt. This will expand the metal enough that it will come out with a knock. You don't want to heat the bolt, you want to heat the housing or material around the bolt. I've used this method when replacing control arms without any pullers or forks. No damage to any parts.
April 29, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the advice just everyone be careful with the heat. You do not want to damage the rubber boot that holds in the ball socket lubricant. You can also give a good whack with a heavy mallet and the joint should break loose without heat. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ken Comments: You can avoid removing the sway bar end links when removing the struts, use a floor jack to apply tension to the tie rod end or control arm either works effectively and gently raise the assembly until the spring begins to compress. Use the pickle fork to remove per the instructions. When reinstallation comes use the same jack at the base of the knuckle to nudge into position, also helpful for aligning the piece instead of having a helper.

@ Adam; I've dropped a couple of vehicles with 1" rates and the alignment adjustment is really pretty light. 1/2 a degree of camber is normal, 1 degree negative is usually the result. Tire lifespan is generally reduced but not by a large degree. Toe is the greatest enemy of your tire life. A negative camber on daily street driving will result in an OVERALL reduction of tire life, but any BMW or German car seems to carry that virtue for high speed stability. I wouldn't sweat it, but do plan on checking that alignment once a year. If you remove the struts via this method the adjusters are left alone so your toe will be the same as before with stock height, likely off by 0.5-1.25 degrees of toe with a drop in my experience, so if you've got the adjustment clearance make sure that's done soon after.
August 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hey thanks for the detailed response and helping our readers out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Doug Comments: Jared and Wayne - Great articles. I did my e30 struts with no instruction prior to seeing your article probably could have saved myself half a weekend if I had seen the article. One point of note: if you use the heavy duty strut spring compressors the part stores use in their loaner program, you will need to align them nut side up/screw side down and attach about 3 coils down from the top and one coil up from the bottom. Otherwise removing the tool after the new strut is installed and you are decompressing the spring is impossible - the nut on the top of the tool is too high in the wheel well to access. And screw side up won't fit in the wheel well. And thanks for the detailed article on clutch replacement. I'm mustering the mojo to tackle that one.
August 16, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hey thanks for the tip on how to use the spring compression tool - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Hoss Comments: Do you recommend replacing the front strut mounts as well? I am doing an entire front suspension overall. On my other e30 I left my old ones in and it has been fine, but just wanted to know your thoughts.
June 24, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unless they were recently replaced then yes. They are rubber mounts that can dry out and a bearing inside that may seize and on older cars this is more likely to happen. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cwils65 Comments: Feb 8,2011
Very excellent article, but I didn't see all the answers to the followup questions? Articles are an excellent service to customers

My question is do I really need to remove the spring if all I want to do is add on an Adjustable Camber plate to increase my negative camber ,since I don't think I need new shocks or new springs at this time?

Will I need new self locking nuts?

chuck wilson
February 8, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm slowly working my way through a backlog of answering all of these questions. :) The camber plates that I have used in the past replace the top shock mount, so you would indeed have to loosen and temporarily remove the springs in order to place the mount in there. I would indeed use new locking nuts as well. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Bill Comments: Do you know what the torque is for the 19mm self locking strut nut is. If I tighten it with the impact gun do i do the final tightening when the spring is still compressed or when I undo the spring compressor and the strut is under tension. Thanks you got a great web site I brag about it all the time.
November 6, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the kudos. I think you're talking about the nut on the top of the shock? I just zap it with the impact wrench when the car is up off the ground (shouldn't make a difference). The nut is self-locking so it's very unlikely to loosen itself. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Shaka Comments: I'm doing a suspension overhaul on a 86 e30.

Would like to know if it's possible to replace the old ready made strut combined wheel-hub with the modern day ready made shock combined strut, wheel hub separate to strut and if so what type of wheel hub would best suite the overhaul.
June 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe on a project like this you will also have to change the suspension arms because the pickup points are different. Having the updated strut is really not going to help you so I would stay with the stock design. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Roberte30lee Comments: I'm in the middle of this project right now. At this point I'm haven trouble removing the tie rod and control arm from the strut housing. As with the fellow above the picklefork has just destroyed my tie rod boot and it's not working. I'm gonna pick up a tie rod puller in the morning and try that
June 28, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I know this sounds simple but usually a good whack with a 5 lbs small sledge hammer on the strut itself, right where the tie-rod end goes through us usually enough to "shock" the tapered tie-rod end to pop out. That's all most professional mechanics do. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Carlos Comments: Hi Jared, i am very interested in this upgrade, one question, 'cause where i live the streets have many bumps and i dont want to loose comfort. Thanks for your comments.
April 19, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you are talking about springs to lower the car then yes they are stiffer and the ride will become harsh. Stock springs will maintain the comfort and prevent bottoming out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tim Comments: Removing that collar nut was a bitch. WD40 i do not think would do it. Either need the special tool to hold the shaft of the shock from moving or need to grind the shaft with grinder super hardened steel, vice-grips wouldn't grab them unless we ground two flat edges to catch onto. Grinding was sketchy. I need to replace my mounts and cannot damage the new shocks. Thank you and great article, pretty much covers it all. Just for the iX you need to drive that axle out and remember to torque the axle nut back up to spec.
April 6, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The tool can be found on the internet as most European specialty tool suppliers - Nick at Pelican Parts  
94 318iheels Comments: Do you have to remove the spring if you are only replacing the strut?
March 11, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, think of the strut assembly as a sandwich and the spring is in the middle. You can leave the bottom of the strut in the hub mount but you will still have to remove the upper strut mount and then loosen the collar nut in the car and pull the tube out through the hole in the body. It seems to me to be much easier to at least remove the strut assembly from the strut tower mount. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ty Comments: I've gotten to the point where I need to remove the control arm bolt from the lower strut assembly but I cant get the control arm joint off of the bottom of the strut housing. I've used a center punch and hammer, a tunning fork type fork set, and have simply punded on it with a mallet. I've used a floor jack to compress the strut allowing for the control arm to fall away, using all of the above tools. I can't get the control arm bolt out of the strut housing. Do you have any suggestions that might work. Thanks
March 7, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Most professional mechanics simply give a good whack with a 5 to 10 lbs small sledge hammer right on the knuckle mount of the strut. Wear eye protection as small bits of metal can chip off and go flying. Brass hammers work best. A mallet with a soft coating will just bounce off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tim Comments: Is removing and reinstalling the CV joint on the front strut 325 iX 4wd the same as the rear cv joint instructions? Will I have to do grease repacking if I remove the CV joint in the front just to replace shocks?
March 4, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The procedures are similar but you do have the ability to twist the hub out of the way a little since it pivots for steering. If the boot is not broken and grease has not escaped you do not have to repack it. You may want to repack it just to get longer life out of your CV joint unless you plan and replacing it with and entire shaft assembly in the future. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ross Comments: Can you help me please? I have a 1990 325is e30 and I want to lower it I wanted to just lower the front is this possible and is this what you did in this article?
February 22, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you only lower the front you are going to have an unusual handling vehicle. The front of the car will be compressing a one rate and the rear at another. It will probably lead to what race car driver's call over-steer. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Arthur Comments: Hi Jared,
Thanks for a great article. However, having just finished this same procedure with the help of my Bentley manual I would suggest two changes. The first & most important is to NOT compress the front springs before removing the strut assembly. The complete strut & spring assembly can be safely removed as a unit, and then disassembled on a work bench. I used my bench mounted vice to hold the strut firmly in order to compress my springs. I would suggest this method to your readers since its much easier, as well as safe. Bentley's instructions also state that the springs should be removed after removing the strut.
The other suggestion I have is to remove the tie rod end ball joint with a hammer and an 8 inch center punch. I used a pickle fork on the driver's side & ended up ripping the soft rubber ball joint cover-and the ball joint still wouldn't loosen until I used the hammer & center punch.
Thanks again for all of your helpful articles on the Pelican website
January 3, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for mentioning some things to try when attempting this job - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Adam Comments: How far does this put the camber into the negative? If the car is dropped 1-1.5" is it going to significantly shorten the lifespan of one's tires? I am looking into doing this and confused about how necessary a camber kit is.
December 19, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: On this particular car used for the article, there was no discernible change in tire life. Any camber adjustment hardware is not really necessary at all for a stock car. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
masoud Comments: very good.tanks
November 8, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the kudos - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Brian Comments: that is very interesting, can you tell me if i have to change the struts all round if i have to lower the car or can i lower the car with just the change of springs?? thanks
May 14, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Swapping out the springs should do it, if you don't want to slam it to the ground. If you want to drop it an inch or two, you should be fine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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Pelican Parts, LLC
1600 240th Street
Harbor City, CA 90710
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Page last updated: Fri 2/16/2018 02:20:17 AM