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HomeTech Articles > Heater Box Replacement

Guest Technical Article:

Heater Flapper Box Replacement:
Installation
Page 2
Tom Sharpes
toms@pneudraulics.com

[Click on Image to Enlarge]

When I fit check the boxes it appeared the tube on the inlet was too long. These are different from the original equipment ones so I would have to mark them and cut them back.

The drivers side inlet tube was also too long and would not allow me to get the ducting in between the inlet of the tube and outlet of the heat exchanger. I marked it for cutting as well.

Anyone who says the after market parts aren't as good as the original should try cutting these tubes ! The gauge of the metal was very thick - these will be on there for a long time.

After cutting the tubes I had enough clearance for the ducting and I was ready to tack weld the studs to hold the boxes in.

Tack welding the box on the drivers side added an extra bit of excitement - the fuel  lines run just under the lower part of the flange. Not feeling  suicidal I let discretion beat out valor  and took it to a muffler shop for welding.

The guys at the muffler shop didn't even blink an eye at going for this job. Holding the box in place he tacked a small spot on the hold the box on and then applied a good bead to each of the studs.

On the drivers side with the fuel lines he wetted down the area and did the same thing.

The immediate area of the fuel line never got hot at all and he did a great job working in such a small space.

As you can see - these aren't going anywhere. The tack welds are tight and if worse comes to worst, I can always break the remaining studs away with a chisel.

On the drivers side you can see just how close the fuel lines are to the flange on the box.
I used the old hose clamps to secure the ducting to the inlet of the box and the outlet of the heat exchanger. The next step is to attach the cables to the box through the barrel nuts on the flapper control portion of the box. Both side are done the same. Check to ensure that you have smooth operation of the flapper inside of the box.
Cable Installation

To install the control cables for the heater boxes you will have to gain access to the heater control lever in the tunnel. To do this pull the carpet up from the backseat area in the middle of the tunnel.

Remove the three bolts on the hand brake cover  and use the hand brake to pull up the cover to get access to the cables inside. This is a very tight area. Pull back on the brake handle the cover will lift up.

Circled are the two tubes that the cables (actually wires) go  through to the underside of the car. The wires are actually one long wire bent in the middle with two wires on one end and a loop on the other

In this close up you can see the tubes better. Because the wire loop is on the control lever end, you will have to pull the old wires out through the interior of the car.

Before inserting the wires into the tubes  bend the ends over so they will not snag on the tube as it goes through.

Folding over the ends makes it a log easier to get the wires through.  It helps to apply some lube to the wires so they don't bind on the inside of the tubes.

You will have to install the new wires from the inside of the car through the tunnel.  Remove the nut scuring the heater handle and pull the handle off.

Run one end of the wire through the handle and feed both ends of the wires into the tubes. Push until the handle is back in position and reattach it. Attach the other ends to the heater boxes and your done !

Comments and Suggestions:
SpawnyWhippet Comments: Great write up. I am just doing this job myself, but after reading your article I spent a lot of time cleaning and prepping the studs so the nuts could come off without snapping the studs. I restored my old heater valves to keep them original to the car. Just about to refit and run the new cables.
February 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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