DIY brake pad and rotor change
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This DIY will show you how to change the 993 front brake pads, and same procedure to change out the rear pads.

The skill level of this DIY in a skill of 1-10 (10 being the hardest) is a 5

Everyone has a different method of changing brake pads the most commonly used method is to lift the retainer and pry the pistons back in and remove the old pads.  This procedure may be a little difficult with factory pads since there are the dome shaped anti squealing shims on the back of the brake pads.  The method showing here gives you much more room to work with and lessor of a chance you may damage your rotors. 

(1). Put the car on jack stands.

(2). Remove the wheel, remove the brake pad sensor wire from the holder by sliding the hold down first.
 

(3). Use a vise grip pliers to squeeze the center of the brake pad retainer and use a flat screw driver to pry up the retainer. Once the retainer can be swing up you can remove the sensor wires from it.  And unplug it at the terminal.

(4). Unbolt the two caliper mounting screw 10 mm hex.  These pictures shows the upper and the lower bolts to remove.

(5).  A little modification at the brake line clip will make things a lot easier for you.  For some reason there are no opening at the  brake line holder on the strut, the only way for you to remove the brake line away form the strut is to loosen the brake lines which means you let air in the brake system and you will need to bleed the brakes later.  I found it to be much easier if you make a little modification to the brake line holder.  Use a Dremel motor tool with a cut off wheel attachment and make a opening for yourself.  This way you can slide the brake lines out from the strut and you would have no possibility of bending the brake line by accident when  working on the caliper.
The left picture shows the brake line holder with the clip, the clip can be lifted up by using a flat screw driver, the right picture shows the modification I made using a Dremel cut off wheel on the brake line holder.  Now the brake line can be easily moved away from the strut.

Here is a picture of the brake caliper completely off and can be easily worked on.   No coat hangers or wires to tie it up.    Use a C clamp to squeeze the pistons back in so there will be enough room to clear the rotors once the new pads are installed. Now you can remove the brake pads from the caliper, you may need to use a flat screw driver to pry it out from the pistons. If you added brake fluid in your reservoir because the fluid level went down since the pads were worn out you need to use a turkey baster to suck some out first, because when you squeeze the pistons back in the fluid level will rise and it may over flow the reservoir.  Also to remove the cap on the reservoir will help ease the process of squeezing the pistons back in. 

To remove the rotor you will need to unscrew the two Philips screw that holds the rotor in place.  Some screws may be rusted on, recommend using a impact screw driver to remove them.  Once the screws is removed the rotor will come right off. 

For your first time DIY guys please read this important message from Ray Calvo first:

Do you change your own brake pads?  If so, keep one thing in mind.  After replacing the pads, they are NOT going to be flat against the brake rotor.  What this means is that when you get in the car, pull out of the garage, and first hit the brakes, the pedal might well go right to the floor with no braking!  To avoid this, after replacing the pads, get in the car and pump the pedal slightly but several times to push the pads flat against the rotors.  Once you feel firm resistance in the pedal, the car is ready for driving.

I have failed to do this and nearly clobbered my neighbor's pickup truck when I have pulled the Porsche out of the garage - not once, but twice!