Contributed by : Enrico
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1 – 8mm
Hex bit socket
1 – 10mm
Hex bit socket
2 – 10”
1 – 5”
universal socket connector
½” drive ratchets
wrenches (one for 34lb/ft, the other for 60lb/ft)
HT (or Copaslip) copper anti-seizing paste
supply bolts (if replacement required)
(rebuilt or new)
for starter bolts (if replacement required): 2 of 900-031-005-02
cap (if replacement required): 1 of 999-703-231-40
battery and keep connectors away from battery. Because
one of the terminal on the starter is a live wire connected directly from
- Jack up car
to at least 18” height so that you can work under it (unless you’re lucky
enough to have a hoist). To raise the car that high follow the
instructions in the DIY “How to jack
the car up” The only difference I do is that I
place blocks of wood under the rear wheels when I’m raising the car from
the rear jack supports. This keeps the angle differential between the
front and rear to a minimum and keeps less angled pressure on the jack
stand in the front.
- Remove right
rear wheel (Note: Loosen the bolts A LITTLE before you jack up the car if
you don’t use an impact gun. Even if you don’t have an impact gun you
should be able to undo the bolts by keeping the emergency brake on and the
car in gear. I don’t like loosening the bolts before I jack up the car
because of the pressure put onto the wheels during the processing of
jacking the car up.)
heating supply tubes on both left and right sides. See the DIY “Cleaning
Secondary Air Injection Ports” (http://p-car.com/diy/sai/1/sai.htm)
on how to remove them. Also, besides the tubes shown in Robert’s article,
also remove the metal heating supply tube found to the right of where
Robert is pointing in Photo #12. There are two hex socket bolts to be
removed. (If the bolts break or are very corroded you can replace them:
(2) of 900-067-207-02, (2) of 900-067-008-02, (4) of 900-380-003-02).
the right rear half shaft (drive shaft) at the transmission flange side.
There are six (6) hex bolts that need to be undone – they are very easily
stripped so I accessed them through the wheel well and through the
The tools I used here are:
1 – 8mm Hex bit socket
2 – 10” socket extensions
1 – 5” socket extension
Here is a photo of the bolts (6 of them, 3
shown) which need to be undone:
(Note: If you strip the bolts or want to
replace them the part number for these bolts is: (6) of 900-067-123-09).
In order to unbolt these in the manner that
I’m doing it you’ll need to rotate the axle to get access to the bolts. So
the procedure is: release the emergency brake, line up the bolt by turning
the brake disc (or if it’s too difficult put the wheel back on and use the
wheel as leverage), engage the emergency brake, loosen the bolt (but don’t
remove it) and repeat. Once all bolts have been loosened you can loosen them
completely from underneath the car.
To separate the half shaft from the
transmission put the shaft flange towards the wheel well and move the shaft
out of the way. Be careful not to damage or dirty the face of the flange –
this needs to be absolutely clean during reassembly. The photo below
indicates the direction in which to push the shaft.
- Remove the
starter wires. There are two nuts to be undone on the starter with the
larger holding two wires (the 50A connection), and the other holding only
one wire (the 30A connection). The 30A connector should have a plastic
protective cap over it which needs to be removed. See photo below.
- Cut tie wraps
holding wire bundle to starter.
starter mounting bolts. There are two of these – the lower has a large
ground wire connected to it. To unbolt these you will need a 10mm hex bit
socket. The lower bolt is relatively easy to take off, the upper is where
we need to get creative. What I found works for me is to use the following
tools (all ½” drives):
hex bit socket
Below is a photo of the tool setup I used:
Everyone will have their own way of doing
this procedure, in fact the shop manual indicates a different setup using a
sliding T-bar socket connection, but because the bolt on my car felt like it
was almost seized I needed a lot more leverage than this setup allowed me.
With only the hex bit and the extension
connected together, I reached with my right hand (laying down with my feet
towards the rear of the car) up over the starter and then strictly by feel,
found out where the bolt was and inserted the hex bit socket. This is the
most tedious and frustrating part of the job. Once you get the feel for it
the first time, though, you’ll find it much easier on subsequent tries. Once
you have the hex bit inserted into the bolt, let go of it and the next step
will be to attach the universal connector and the ratchet.
To install the universal connector, what I
did was put myself in a position where I ended up “hugging” the
transmission. The first picture shows my left arm reach over the half-shaft
up over the starter.
The second photo shows my right arm and how
I begin to reach over the transmission. You can see the left half shaft
bolted to the transmission. Note the white cloth (and the red cloth in the
previous photo) – I put these over two lines (which I believe are brake
lines) because the lines had a very gummy substance on them which was very
difficult to remove off my clothing (or arm
). Also, you’ll likely need to pull up the sleeves of your work clothes to
get in there comfortably (or just wear a t-shirt if you’re in a warmer
With your right hand, you should now be
able to feel for the socket extension which you inserted previously. You
should also be able to hold it (or feel for it) with your left hand at the
same time. When you achieve this capability you’ll be in an ideal position
to remove the bolt. Now, with either your right or left hand, bring up the
universal connector and attach it to the socket extension – make sure you
don’t remove the hex bit from the bolt. (By the way, the reason I attach at
this point is that I found the universal connector made it much more
difficult for me to insert the hex bit into the bolt in the first place –
assembling it after was much easier for me). Once the universal connector
has been attached, bring the ratchet up using your right hand, over the
transmission, and as you did with the universal connector, attach it the
universal connector. Turn the ratchet drive bit as necessary to get it
attached properly. Once you have this, you are now able to apply pressure to
remove the bolt.
In my case, as mentioned, the bolt was on
very tight and felt like it was almost seized. Once I set up the ratchet to
be put in a position to apply pressure to the bolt, I used a hollow pipe
from below and pushed on the ratchet for leverage until it finally gave way.
To use the ratchet effectively, here is where you make use of the universal
connector. Move the ratchet with the help of the universal joint to “click”
the ratchet into position – you won’t be able to get more than one or two
“click” actions at a time (not sure what the real technical word to use here
After it has been undone, remove the bolt.
Update March, 2006
I was able to
remove the top starter bolt by using a combination of 10mm allen socket,
extension and a breaker bar. The breaker bar offered
less play and works well in the restricted space. I also
attached an extension with a large socket so I slip it on the breaker bar to
use as leverage.
- Remove the
starter from below carefully. This is a bit awkward given the shaft the at
protrudes from the starter, but some playing around in the space should
help. Also, you may find the bracket which holds the large ground cable
(which you removed from the lower starter bolt) might be in the way, just
bend it to give you a little more room to remove the starter.
- Install new
starter. The starter that I got didn’t have a nut for the 30A connector so
I reused the one from my original starter. You may find that the starter
has either 3 or 4 connections. The one I removed had 3 connections, the
newer one had 4 connections. Just make sure the 50A connector is set
correctly and the 30A as well. Ignore the others.
- Make sure you
have washers for the bolts. The parts manual shows two washers, one for
each of the starter mounting bolts. The original install on mine didn’t
have any. I ordered them and installed them.
- Using the
same procedure as stated above, try and get the top bolt in (again, using
my right hand from the right rear over the starter. Screw it in as much as
possible. Then, as before, attach the universal connector, ratchet and
bolt on. The tightening torque for the mounting bolts is 34lb/ft. There’s
no way I could get a torque wrench for the top bolt, so I did it by feel.
If you want to see what 34lb/ft feels like, use a torque wrench on your
lower bolt and remove it using the same ratchet for the upper bolt – this
will give you some sense of how tight this is.
attaching the lower bolt, put on the new tie wraps. These wraps can be
purchased either from the dealer or even The Home Depot. The ones I got
are shown below. Note that these are NYLON and should be a minimum of 12”
long (I used 14” to give more room to work with). These wraps should hold
the wire on top of the starter to the starter.
- Attach the
30A and 50A connections and tighten the nuts.
- Put the
protection cap over the 30A connector – a must. If you can reuse the cap
then fine otherwise order a new one (part #: 999-703-231-40).
- Attach lower
starter mounting bolt along with the ground wire and washer. Torque to
- Reconnect the
half shaft to the transmission flange. To dohttp://p-car.com/diy/starter/
this you will need to purchase some Optimoly HT (part #: 000-043-004-00) –
or, given that none was available in North America when I did this, just
use some copper anti-seizing paste such as Copaslip (from the makers of
Moly Slip). Please note that this material contains lead and you should
use gloves when handling it and thoroughly wash your hands afterwards.
This paste should be put on all of the six
bolts you’ll use to reconnect the half shaft. Important: MAKE SURE THE FACES
ON THE TRANSMISSION FLANGE AND ON THE HALF SHAFT ARE ABSOLUTELY CLEAN PRIOR
TO REASSEMBLY. To tighten the bolts use the method I outlined previously
when removing them. Note that the torque for each of the bolts is 60lb/ft.
heating supply tubes.
right rear wheel.
- Lower car
- Have fun!
information: Added on Aug, 6 2009
Dear p-car Webmaster:
I have appreciated very much the write-up by Enrico Palummieri about
replacing the starter on a 993. Like him, I was frustrated to catch
upper nut to release the starter.
I did make a special tool that make this task a breeze and would
share this info with all. All that is needed is a 1’’ long piece of
PVC pipe, a piece of ½’’ copper tubing, a ½” copper coupling placed
and some epoxy. You can then slide this tool from the back of the
used 3/8” extensions and ratchet with the 10 mm hex bit socket, I
even need a universal joint. I attach 2 photos.
Happy starter replacement DIY!
Rene (Ron) Chevray