This picture shows the location of the mounting holes (ignore the drill dust...) The Panasonic ballast comes with three mounting tabs and some heavy adhesive on the back courtesy of AO. The adhesive does not work well in this application as height is needed to clear miscellaneous grommets and contours, and... as the tabs would make for a much more professional looking installation. Taking the tape off was lots of fun as it is really sticky. Note the headlamp adjuster access tab shown at the top left. This needed to be trimmed to clear the connector for the igniter.
This picture shows that the holes needed to be just a smidgeon back away from the large wiring grommet, as it is bigger on the back than the front. I was able to make my holes work as I had used small-headed Allen head cap screws, but moving the ballast a little further away would have been better. Drill VERY slowly and carefully in this area. DO NOT let the drill rip into wiring or other expensive systems...
Mounting hardware is straight from Home Depot.
Quantities shown are for each side.
(3) 8mm x 30 mm x 1.5 inch Allen headed stainless steel cap screws. (These need to be cut down to 1.25. I used a Dremel and several cutoff wheels.)
(3) ' nylon spacers
(6) Flat stainless steel washers
(3) Self locking (nylon insert) stainless steel nuts
Cap screws are installed with the nuts inside the trunk.
See the following pics to view on the installed ballast.
A new X-acto knife was used to surgically open the wiring harness and expose the headlamp power wire. This ran along the top of the wiring bundle.The orange and brown wires from the ballast/igniter connection (left above) is cut leaving enough wire to both splice into the headlamp assembly wiring and to a salvaged portion of the red/black sheathed wires from the unneeded wiring harness/relay that came with the system. See next picture.
A professional looking installation. The wires are looped behind the mounted ballast. The opened wiring harness was re-taped,with black electrical tape, as were all exposed wires. Note the trimmed headlamp adjuster access tab shown at the top left center. This was to clear the adjacent connector for the wiring that runs to the igniter
If I could have located the proper ground wire, I could have saved a little work by tapping into these wires back at the wiring harness adjacent the ballast. However, it was nearly impossible to locate it as the bundle had lots of brown ground wires; I instead chose extend the igniter wiring using a piece of the red/black sheathed wires from the unneeded relay wiring harness. These pass through the large rubber grommet into the headlamp area of the inner fender and follows the existing headlamp wiring harness. See the previous picture. It is tied to the existing headlamp wiring harness with plastic wire ties.
The wires into the connector above were cut and spliced to the igniter wiring extension using wire crimps. The connections and the ends of the still live yellow/black wire and ground will be covered in shrink tubing. See next picture.
This grommet was removed from the HID capsule wiring as it was not needed. Each side of the grommet was opened using the X-acto knife and blade shown, with the back of the blade against the wire.
The igniter is mounted using the Autolamps Online furnished adhesive, in the same location where the factory Litronic igniter is mounted. As you can see, there is more wiring to hide than desired as the high tension leads from the igniter to the HID capsules cannot be cut.