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Ignition Troubleshooting Checklist
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Ignition Troubleshooting Checklist

Mikko Kosonen

Applicable Models:

 
Porsche 911 (1965-89)
Porsche 912 (1965-69)
Porsche 914 (1970-76)
Porsche 930 Turbo (1976-89)
Here is a list of what to check if your car is backfiring constantly or if the car is not running right.

Ignition box (CDI/CDS)
  • First thing to check is that the ignition box is making squealing sound while power is on, this indicates that the high power voltage is produced.
  • If there is no sound check that the ignition box is getting correct voltage (Check the manual which terminal) If the voltage is much under 12V the ignition box will not sound "healthy". If you have heard the sound while its working, you know the difference.
  • High voltage terminal should be reading 4-5V, and when measured with oscilloscope there should be this 400-500V spike when terminal C is connected to ground.
Ignition coil
  • Ignition coil is simple to measure. When measured with ohm meter the primary coil windings should give reading of 0.3-0.6 ohms. Secondary coils should be near 600 ohms.
  • Check that the wires that are attached to coil are correctly connected
  • Never use conventional ignition coil with CDI/CDS system
Ignition wires/connectors
  • Check the wires with an ohmmeter that they all conduct. Copper wires should give very low readings, refer manufacturer information on other types of wires
  • Wires could leak the "spark" to ground therefore diminishing the spark that goes to spark plugs. Putting tape on the wire to prevent leak won't help. Replace the wires, they are cheap.
  • Resistors (plug/distributor caps) need to be measured, they should all be in +/- 10% ohm range of each others (2k ohm on each end is normal)
  • Resistors are not needed, but dismissing of those may cause radio interference in stereo equipment or other digital instruments.
Spark plugs
  • Check the plug condition visually and clean the plugs with brass brush.
  • Check the gap between the electrodes (should be 0,6mm or near)
  • Plug insulator may be cracked and thus "spark" is leaking to ground.
Breaker points
  • Check visually that the breaker points open enough (refer to manual) when manually turning the engine (BE SURE THAT THE IGNITION IS OFF!!)
  • The breaker point contacts should be clean and even. If there are any spikes or holes with on the contacts, replace the points with new ones.
  • Check with "light pen" that the breaker points open at right position
  • Breaker point gap is directly connected to dwell angle. To be sure that the gap is correctly set, measure the dwell angle with correct meter (many multimeters have this nowadays).
Vacuum advance/retard
  • While distributor cap is off you can check if the vacuum advance system is working
  • Remove the hose from the carburetor and suck it (with your mouth). The breaker points should be moving a bit
  • If nothing happens the breaker point advance/retard system is stuck. Lubrication usually helps on this one.
  • If the breaker points are moving just fine when moving with hand, the problem could be the vacuum unit. When aging these usually break and should be replaced.
Carburetor
  • The carburetor could be getting dirty and clogged so the mixture is not right, if possible check the jets and emulsion tubes that they are clean. With weber carbs the idle and main jets are easily removable, they are at the opposite side of acceleration pump. Even if these look clean, clean them with compressed air. Don't poke them with anything metallic, the jets might get damaged and the jet sizing is not correct anymore. If the jets are very much covered in oxides you could soak them in some solvent overnight or try cleaning them ultrasonic washer.
  • Air leaks can cause backfiring, the leaks cause that the engine is getting too much air and so the mixture is not correct. You can either install new gaskets to carburetor or use some gasket adhesive to correct the situation. Don't use any silicone based substance because they can't stand the heat+gasoline combination, even though the markings on the side of the box indicate so. Besides, when you put the carburetor back together some silicone adhesive could get instantly in carburetor and from there to the jets and emulsion tubes.
  • The gasket between the engine and the intake manifold as the gasket between carburetor and intake manifold might be leaking. These are usually made of graphite or other material and need to be replaced with new ones.
  • The fuel mixture may be too lean and cause backfiring and uneven run.
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Comments and Suggestions:
Rick Comments: I have a 1980 911 SC that use to run great. I changed the original coil approx two years ago with a Brazilian made Bosch coil twice as they both failed. Thereafter, this past May I installed a third Bosch coil from partsclassic and it has been fine until this month. Not sure if it is coincidental, but with approximately 2 gallons remaining in the tank I filled with 91 octane ethanol free gas. It ran fine for approximately 14 miles. I parked the car and when I restarted, it would not run well below 2000 rpm. Originally I thought it was fuel related, but now I am thinking ignition again. It seems to run fine above 2000 rpm, but below that it was to sputter and stall. Also, one of my stereo speakers seems to have excessive static that varies with engine rpm. Would you have any thoughts? Please advise. Thanks, RIck
October 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the coil output voltage is around 15,000 volts. Use a spark tester. it may be faulty, or a faulty ignition condenser. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ron Comments: I have a 1988 944S. It was running fine until I parked it for a brief period and tried to restart it. The ignition would not turn nor would the headlights work. Any ideas?
October 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Start by confirming the battery is OK. If so, check the ignition switch for power when you turn the vehicle ON. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bigtex806 Comments: I have a very low mileage 1995 968. It sat for several years with a dead battery. I put a new battery in it. BUT every time I hook up both terminals the alarm goes off. I have turned the key off and on many times. I have locked and unlocked the doors several times. I have rolled the windows up and down but the alarm will not shut off. Any suggestions ?
September 17, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The key may not be recognized. YOu may need to program the vehicle or try a different key. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Arch Comments: I have a 1973 914 1.7ltr Porsche. After the engine warms up 10 min + it is difficult to restart. It does start after cranking the engine for several seconds. Can you help me? Thanks:Arch Robinson
September 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Most likely a timing issue. I would check compression when warm. If too high, timing may be off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rich Comments: Mine is a 1979 SC. Recently it runs only "ok". I can notice a "miss" every 1-2 seconds when rolling in 2nd or 3rd gear at 2-3k. Seems to be missing a bit of power and pep I've owned the car for 30 years, so I remember how it used to run. The valves have been adjusted and rechecked, the cylinders all hold 90+ on leak down test, I put in new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. I had trouble with rust in the tank a few years back so got tank cleaned and coated and added new filter and most recently new injectors. pressures on CIS are good. It starts and idles fine. But nothing fixed the slight stumble. Not much left I think. could it be coil? CDI unit? something I am missing?
August 20, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If everything checks out, you'll want to get then engine on an ignition scope. The scope will be able to determine which if any cylinders are misfiring. The cause can also be determined by the firing line and Kv. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BOB Comments: I will write again I have a 1982 944 had been running good untell a mount ago I was letting it run while I check the air in the tires,it quit .check it out no spark at all it has power to the coril.the speed sinser hassome marks on it how can i test it and what shoid I do next??? BoB.
August 9, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the sensor is sending an A/C volt sine wave to the DME. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rayray Comments: my 1973 914 2.0 runs just fine at high rpms but at idle it looses cyl 2 and 4 step on fuel it stumbles then takes right off
July 19, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. Most likely ignition issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Aly Comments: Nick, thanks. I tried a code reader but it could not establish a link to read codes but even if it could they may be erased because in an attempt to get the car started I disconnected the battery cable hopefully that will get the car to start. It did not. I called the local Porsche dealer parts department and asked about the key. He thought that the car would still start but turn off right after if the immobilizer was inoperative and that the steering should unlock mechanically through the switch if the key was inserted. The car acts like it does not know the key is inserted at all since when the door is opened it makes no gong sounds as described in the owners manual. He said Porsche has had issues with the ignition switch. I am hoping I can get some more info from the service manager when he calls me. It is looking like the ignition switch may have suddenly failed when I was driving which locked the wheel and turned off the power. I don't even know if only Porsche can fix this or an independent shop can.
April 29, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can test the ignition switch. Grab a wiring diagram and check if it sends the right signals when attempting to start.

If it were immobilizer, the vehicle may start and stall, with the immo light on. Then if too many attempts happen, it may stop cranking.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Aly Comments: I have 2006 911S. It suddenly stopped running after stopping to make a turn on a road. The car did nothing when trying to restart it, the steering wheel was locked and I could not push it to get of the road. Jump starting it did nothing. Low beam headlight did not work when I turned them on to check the battery. High beam headlights were very bright when I pulled the lever. Radio still worked but power windows did not work. Remote on the key works and unlocks doors and trunk. Replaced bettery in the remote, no change, car still does not start. DOES anybody have ANY IDEAS? Is it the key?
April 28, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: it could be the key, without a second one to try it is difficult to be sure. I would assume with how it failed, it is not the key and more likely an electrical component. I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Alain Comments: I have a 1980 911 SC, in second or third gear, when this is easiest to notice, and when driving stable at an RPM between 1,500 and 3,000 the engine is not stable, it feels as if it is misfiring, it "coughes". Above 3,000RPM I have great running and great power/torque. Any idea of what it could be would be appreciated, thanks!
April 27, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RON Comments: HEY GUYS HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME OUT, I'M WORKING ON A 1986 911 CARRERA WHICH RAN FINE UNTIL I PARKED IT FOR ABOUT 6 MONTHS, WENT TO START IT AND NO GO. TURNS OVER BUT NO SPARK. YOU CAN SMELL FUEL OUT EXHAUST, HAVE 12V TO COIL BU NO SPARK WHEN TURNING OVER. I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY SOMEONE THAT A MAYBE A SPEED SENSOR OR CRANK POSITIONING SENSOR . HOW CAN I TEST THE SENSORS TO SEE IF THEY ARE THE CULPRIT .... JUST SEAMS KIND OF WEIRD THAT THEY WOULD GO BAD WHILE PARKED. THANKS RON
March 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Use a scope to monitor for the signal fromthe sensor to the DME, on both wires. Since it is a/c volts, test wire orientation isn;t that critical, the signal will just look backward if crossed. Ok for testing.

if you don't have a scope, disconnect the sensor, connect a. A/C volt meter across the terminals and crank the engine. It should make 0.5v/AC when cranking. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ralph Comments: I have a 1987 944 base coupe. The engine hesitates , just for a fraction of a second, causing about a 200 RPM drop. It will do this at any RPM, any throttle position, backing off or accelerating, hot or cold. It will do it about a dozen times in a 5 mile drive. I replaced the DME, new plugs, and had injectors serviced. NO CHANGE in symptoms.
February 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the check engine light on? Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Faith Comments: I have a 1986 Porsche 944
My car drives smooths and tears the streets up , but have ever some times when I turn of my car; then try and start up it doesn't start.
The Engine wants to though you can here it. Then I would let some time pass by and it'll start up again
December 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jk Comments: I have an 83 944, it has power to the coil when the ignition is in the on position,but loses power once you start cranking and will not start. I have ran a jumper wire to power ignition to start and will run as normal,but will not restart unless jumper wire is in place. Any help or suggestion are greatly appreciated
December 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would assume power is lost in the crank position due to the ignition switch. Check if the switch stops sending voltage when cranking. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
03 DMP Comments: I have a 1988 911. Engine starts and idles fine, very responsive in neutral. I have driven the car across the country twice with no noticeable issues other than a couple of days into a trip the car would begin to hesitate under heavy acceleration in gear. To get around it I would just avoid sharp acceleration. The problem has evolved into larger stumbles and hesitation from the start, still only while in gear now under moderate acceleration. Fuel filter and pump have been replaced. Next steps to take?
October 31, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check the intake manifold for air leaks. That will cause hesitations. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
the dad Comments: I have a 1983 944 and was having a problem with hard starts, misfires and occasionally the car would die while driving and then not start up. If left sitting it might fire up as if nothing was wrong but then return to hard starts,misfire and smoking. Found a damaged position sensor wire and with replacement, car does not die when running. Checked everything else, and found gas in oil, wet plugs. New oil and plugs and fire up fine. Later had the hard start,smoking, rough idle, seems like it is flooded. Is this an injector problem or bad DME?
October 18, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hard to say. You will have to see what is missing when the problem is present. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
...... Comments: 1984 Porsche 944 Engine Miss every time you step hard on the gass it misses but if youhit the pedal slow it will have the power any idea?
October 11, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
butch Comments: i have a 1968 912 that has a miss on number 4 cylinder we have ckd comp has 120 lbs rebuilt both carbs replaced dist cap if you pull # 4 out of the cap doesn't change anything plugs are not fouled any one have any sugg.
October 7, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What is compression on all the cylinders? Is spark getting to the plug? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jimmyn Comments: hi I have a 1987 924s that will only start with original key not the replacemt?
September 9, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does the ignition turn normally with the new key? If so the cut is right and the immobilizer may not be correct with the new key Check with your source for the key if it matches your vehicle. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Paulo Comments: Thanks for your help.
September 7, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Paulo Comments: I am working on a 1986 Porsche 911 sc that didn´t start.
I send the ignition unit CDIto be repaired and replaced the ignition coil by an original one, everithing perfect, it works fine but after a two weeks the ignition coil burned, was replaced again and again after two weeks the coil burned again.
I send the ignition module to be tested again and they say it is ok, i don´t see any other reason for the igniton coil burn.
Can you help me find the problem.
September 3, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be a short in the harness or a faulty module. Not much else could do it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Stanley Comments: I have a 1974 914 1.8. It starts but dies in 4-5 seconds. If I open the throttle while running, it dies immediately. It has new ignition parts, new dual relay, all hoses secure. When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump running. Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks
September 3, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Milo Comments: Hi I have just rebuilt my 2.0 with fuel injection. It started and ran 15 minutes ran smooth then turned the distributor it popped died and have not been able to get it to start since. It has spark and fuel fuel pressure is at 36 lbs. I'm at a lost any brain storming that might help would sure be appreciated. Thanks
August 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have spark and fuel, you are lacking compression or spark timing is off. Check timing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Nazcan Comments: Is there a way to reset the immobilizer on the 99 Porsche Boxter?
July 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, using an advanced Porsche scan tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
george01 Comments: 1981 924 NA Keeps blowing the ignition module ..any ideas?
July 3, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Likely a bad coil. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
aridgecko Comments: On my 2003 996 C4, all 6 of the coils read .9 to 1.0 ohms, I see this is outside the range, but because it was consistent across all 6, I thought in not a problem. What do you think. I am not able to idle at all in it's current state, but I do not know whether it is sark, fuel or something else.
June 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If all six read that, must be normal. I don't use resistance to test coils, not reliable. They have to be tested under load. For example firing Kv or current output.

I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
johngypsy Comments: I have a 1983 930 3.3 turbo, have done a new turbo and cap, also done 2 brand new fuel pumps ordered from pelicans last month and just installed them to, the motor sounds wonderful, went for a test drive, and no power at all, does not feel right at all, very very slow, need your advice, don't know to much about the car as I just bought it, calibers are good, the clutch has very little peddle left to it, the turbo iner cooler seals was also done, used to back fire a little, went away due from the 1 fuel pump only working, so now good pressure is there, just NO power what so ever, it did have some on 2nd gear after 20 mins of driving it, but when cold feels like I'm driving a bike peddles need your help on what to do so the shops won't get me on this one,
Thanks so much
John
December 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Two things, I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality. Then check exhaust back pressure.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
veecee Comments: I have a 1984 911 carrera manual 3.2. It runs pefectly when cold but once warmed up has a misfire and hesitancy below 2000rpm which occassionally leads to a backfire. Have replaced plugs, coil leads distributor cap etc. Any ideas?? Thanks
August 14, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: backfiring is a timing issue. Check engine timing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Willy TD Comments: 1970 914 1.7 starts, idles and revs well in neutral, in gear as I accelerate/put a load on, if I push the throttle down too hard/fast, it stalls. Will start again. Took the throttle switch apart, some wear but seems to be adjusted OK and give the right readings to the contact pins. I do not have a fuel pressure tester. Starting to wonder about worn trigger contact wear. Would appreciate any ideas you might have. Thanks...
July 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be a fuel delivery issue or restricted exhaust. If you do not have the tools to test these issues, I would suggest visiting a repair shop. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Glen Comments: Hi ihave just put a rebuilt 4.7 engine into a 1980 928 and when starting, the engine fires, runs for a few seconds then shuts down!!! Does this sound common for a sensor issue??
May 30, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sure, or a fuel pump, or a power issue. I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Gil Comments: I have a 1977 911 2,7 and its running oké. However there is a misfire on the wire that coms from the ignition coil to the distributer cap.the wire is new. any ideas Thanks
May 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check the wire is good quality, Porsche. Then inspect the sockets for wear. If the coil or cap is worn, voltage will leak. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Hz Comments: Per this article: "Ignition coil
Never use conventional ignition coil with CDI/CDS system"
Ref.: 1974 911 CDI System.
What occurs if a conventional coil is used? Can a weak or defective CDI coil in a CDI System cause ruination of the CD Ignition Box? Testing procedure/desired results of a CDI coil?
May 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Each ignition system design requires a specific resistance coil. The wrong coil can damage components. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ryanmathewlarson Comments: just got hip to this from my cousin in australia...and wanted to say thank you for very concise use of english to explain things to car junkies and non car junkies alike!!!! i will be back and i will recommend!!! thank you!!!! blessings and bacon to all that exist..... are you guys good with volswagens as well??? electrical issues from humans "changing" things is the bane of my existence!!! when will people learn that unless it's a race car there is a ryme and a reason for why everything is!!!! : great page thank you!!!! :
May 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: As a group, we have knowledge of all European makes. Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Lionel Comments: Hi. I have a nissan sentra 140gxi 1997 model. The car idles fine but when i rev it up to 5000 rpm and leave accelerator and suddenly rev up again then the car back-fire. When driving normal and suddenly put foot down on accelerator then the car smuthers. When i release and slowly accelerate then it picks up speed. The distributor is fully turned clock wise. When i turn it to the middle it do not idle or rev up. I suspect its the timing but i just need to be sure.
May 4, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a mechanical engine timing issue. I would check and reset engine timing if needed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Luis Galan Comments: I just bought a 1974 with a 3.0 L engine and webber carbs, I set the time and at idle runs perfect, as soon as you start revving the engine the carbs start making explosions. While you driving backfires when you depress the accelerator. Any ideas. Thanks
April 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like engine timing is off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
makaumba Comments: Thanks for your answers. I m gonna check with my mechanic...
April 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
ash Comments: 1984 Porsche 944, tachometer not moving & no spark at coil, fuel is OK because I hear the pump kick on. Brand New coil, ignition, spark plug wires, rotor & cap. What could be the issue? It turns over but won't start up.
April 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: SOunds like a voltage issue. I would voltage drop test the battery positive and negative connections and leads. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
makaumba Comments: Hi. The sound is at the exhaust and it's like small not syncronished explosions only when I lift the gas pedal. At the same time when it goes below 2000 rpm it sometimes does some bizarre pull-push trics as if it was going to stop.
I don't know if this will help you a bit more...
April 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: SOunds like an engine misfire. I would check injector pulse, spark and compression on each cylinder. Once you identify the weak cylinder and the cause of the misfire you can repair it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
makaumba Comments: Hi. The sound is at the exhaust and it's like small not syncronished explosions only when I lift the gas pedal. At the same time when it goes below 2000 rpm it sometimes does some bizarre pull-push trics as if it was going to stop.
I don't know if this will help you a bit more...
Thanks
April 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: SOunds like an engine misfire. I would check injector pulse, spark and compression on each cylinder. Once you identify the weak cylinder and the cause of the misfire you can repair it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
makaumba Comments: Hi
I ve a 1974 911. It was running fine and suddenly in the middle of a trip it started to sound not synchronized whenever I decelerate. My mechanic repaired it but not completely as it does the same noise i suppose is backfiring but in a much smothered way.
In the other hand, what's the break points?
Thanks. Ciao
April 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not sure I understand what or where the noise is coming from. Can you describe it? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Malibu75 Comments: I have a 77 911s that starts fine idles fine and runs fine. However if you accelerate and the rpm is over 2600 it hesitates as if it has a miss. I checked timing and it seems to be dead on. Any ideas?
March 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you checked for an engine misfire? Possible ignition or fuel. Maybe a plugged exhaust? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
joseph Comments: Porsche 911 Carrera NT 1987 miss very badly between 2&3oooRPM wile cruising but do not stall any suggestion.
Thanks in advance.
Joseph
September 24, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be something as simple as fuel / ignition or something serious as valve guides. You'll have to do some testing. Start with the fuel system as that is easy. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Fred Comments: I have a 1974 914 1.8, that was converted to carbs. The car acts like it is running out of fuel when on the road and running around 5,000 rpm and above. Letting off the accelerator will bring it back to "normal" after a few seconds. The car has a Bosch mechanical advance distributor, and electronic ignition.

Any thoughts?
September 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you check fuel pressure? I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
amine Comments: Hi, I have a 1980 911sc, it runs great but on several occasions it stalls out on the highway after being driven for a while. Usually the car will still crank over and start after a while but most recently it will not turn over at all. Does anyone have any ideas?? Thank you
August 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like your fuel pump could be failing. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ninja Comments: I have a 1971 914 2.0 and it seems to be running ok. However, while driving mid-day in Las Vegas, outside temp. about 100 degrees, my car stalled twice. First time it started right up. Next time, it would turn over, but not start. After waiting about ten minutes, car started right up and I was on my way. Does heat/ weather have anything to do with it stalling? Any help would be appreciated.
July 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It sure can. The ignition control module could be failing from the extreme heat or it could be another component.


I can't offer too much help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Arum Comments: My 930 87 mis fire with loud bang and stall but I managed to restart and drove but it stalled again and now never be able to retart again. CDI was replace a few years ago with Permatune cdi from Pelikan. Any advise - should I replace cdi again?
February 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff:
I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
wes Comments: great site. I have a 1968 911 with a 1972 motor. No fire to the coil. CDI whines and has power to dist, good ground. ideas? thanks. wes
January 5, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is there power to the coil? I would check if the coil has power. Then using an incandescent test light, check if the ignition module is trying to fire the coil.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
michael Comments: I have a 1983 Porsche 944 i got in a lien sale itl crank but wont start the car is missing a data bank would that provent it from runnimg?
December 12, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Art Comments: I have a 1982 911SC that runs great - but won't start unless it is rolled against a gear. It seems to be a common problem since so many Porsche guys know about it. But, I've not heard anyone explain how to fix it. If nothing else, it's a little embarrassing! - Any ideas..?
August 24, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If spark is good, does the vehicle start of you add fuel to the engine? First thing is to find out what it will take to start the engine. If it starts every time you roll it, there could be a voltage drop issue from the main relay or the ignition switch. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ivan Comments: oh, forgot to mention the ther is no starter noise or whine at all.
July 22, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check for battery positive signal at Terminal 50 on your starter when cranking. The small wire, usually yellow. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ivan Comments: Got a 1971 1.7 914, runs great. I have a problem, once in a while I turn key to start it up, and nothing. I can turn lights on, the radio, heater,and they work fine, even when I try starting it. The battery is fine, cables good, and even have a hot start relay kit. this happens hot or cold engine???

oh, forgot to mention the ther is no starter noise or whine at all.

July 22, 2012
weirhere Comments: Hi,

I am following this guide to determine the ignition failure for my 71 911T with an MSD ignition box. The car starts fine when cold, but wont fire when the engine is hot. Any recommendations?
June 4, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the box is getting a signal to fire the coil, but is not, it is bad. I have seen MSD boxes fail this way. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dave Comments: I have a 1974 914 1.8L I am having a intermitent stalling problem. The engine will cut out sometimes just a second and sometimes for about 4 or 5 seconds. The tach and guages stay working, The car has an electronic ignition, the problem seems to be getting wose more often then no problems for hours. I have recently replaced the ignition switch had the problem befor changing the switch and I still have the problem. other than that the car runs great and I drive it daily. I thought it could be a fuel pump relay. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
June 2, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Intermittent problems are tough. I would wait until it gets more frequent. Then monitor the power feeds to the ignition and fuel injectors to see if it is dropping out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Fastco Comments: I have a 1982 911SC. The car will stert cold fine and run anywhere from 20 miles to 200 miles. Then for no apparent reasom starts to quit and backfire. It will usually idle but runs rough.If you turn the ignition switch off and restart the car it will run fine untill it does it again. I have replaced the fuel pump relay, fuel pump and check valve. all spark plugs ,wires,rotor,cap,fuel filter ect. Can this be a bad ground?look where CDI box or ICU? Help
April 25, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a problem with the DME. I would test fuel pressure and volume when the problem is present. If it is good. Check spark, if good, check ignition timing, If timing is the issue, the DME is faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jordan2550 Comments: 1983 Porsche 944- I have an intermittent start that seems to have no rhyme or reason as to when it decides not to start. It will crank just fine, but no start, and then ill go back an hour later without doing a thing and it will start right up. One of the times it didnt start, i found it had no spark, and so i traced the wires with he electrical tester and found the coil pack had power, but nothing was going from the distributer. could coil pacs start to have intermittent problems before they go? also, after i start it it doesnt idle well untill it warms up a bit.

I was also told it could be a vaccuum leak, but if so, from where?

PLEASE HELP!
April 4, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: if you are missing spark, the rough idle could be due to excess fuel from attempting to start the engine. I would check the signal to the coil. One side should have battery power, the other should be pulsing. if it is pulsing, the coil is bad. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
matt Comments: i have a 83 porsche 944 i was driving the car every day the it would not start it was one of the batter wires positive side so i connect but now the we NOT turn off unless i stole out and now the light wont go on just the head light the tail light go on if anyone knows what this problem is please help
March 6, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds the ignition switch is having voltage backfed into the electrical system keeping things powered up. Check the ignition switch to see if it turning off when it is swtiched off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BernieF Comments: Hi, I'm a proud owner of a 1970 911T. The car has worked perfectly for the entire 5 years I've owned it, but I now seem to be getting constant battery problems. The car runs on one battery only, currently a Bosch Silver S3 12V 53Ah. We have changed the alternator but the problem hasn't gone. Should I look for a stronger battery? Any recommendations? Many thanks, Bernardo
February 23, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would perform a charging / starting system test. Check that the alternator is charging under a load. Then load test the battery. You may find a faulty battery or alternator.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
porscheonebit Comments: I own a 78 Porsche 911SC. The starter continues to run, even with the ignition switch off, I must disconnect the battery at the terminal to shut it down. I looking for information on where I begin to look to correct this problem. HELP
January 9, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the starter solenoid is getting power to turn starter ON. if it is not, the starter has failed. If it is, it could be the ignition switch or a short. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
matt Comments: I have a 1997 Boxster with a 2.5L the drivers side cylinders 4-6 have no spark but the passenger side cylinders 1-3 does. The car will actually start and run but as you can image its rough. Any help?

Thanks Matt
November 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, I'm a bit puzzled by this. I'm curious as to how you know there is no spark on 4-6? I don't know of any way to actually test this, as the coils are on the plugs. I suppose you could take the plug / coil out and see if you can see a spark, but I'm not sure the wire harness would be long enough for that. I suspect that you actually mean that you have no combustion on that side, and you can tell that from the headers not getting hot. Seems like you need to plug the car into a code reader and see what it will tell you - that will give you some big clues on this. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
yogi Comments: have had an early 1985 944 for a couple of years - no problems easy start and runs like a dream. all of a sudden it died on me, cranked it a few times it started a little irregular a block later dead. towed to mechanic who inferred that it need the two crank sensors i bought one from pelican and another from another supplier I ALSO READ CLARKS GARAGE THAT THE DME COULD HAVE BEEN RESPONSIBLE and so i got one of those. everything installed - car won't start. it had started with old sensors but only ran for an hour and quit and no more start. after new stuff installed and car not start mechanic claims sensors again, but no start and cant use old ones cause one broke in removal. thgis mechanic is usually pretty good but not a porsche man and i think he is lost as to what the problem is. any ideas for me???? eric
October 13, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If he is testing the sensors correctly, he might be right. However, if they keep testing bad, i would check the signal at the DME. If it is bad, the wiring could be faulty. If the signal is good, the DME may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Night Train Comments: I have a 1986 928S and I am trying to hook up the vacuum system, does anyone have a picture or schematic of the vacuum system? Thanks Bobby
September 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See attached diagram. Does this help? - Nick at Pelican Parts
horse292 Comments: I recently purchased a 74 914 with a 2.0 that was basically in pieces
the engine was "professionally rebuilt" but after I finally got every thing together and started it has a dead #3 and 4 cylinders.
the Basics
Pertronix ign, Empi carb setup // I set the timing for carbs34 at 3200RPM and tried to balance the carbs but couldn't get the idle right, started pulling plug wires and 3&4 made no difference. Last night I was going to adjust the valves and set it all up according to the articles I've read but At TDC my #1 cylinder rockers are tight and #3 are loose if I turn the crank so the mark aligns on the bottom #2 adjustment #1 is loose. I'm thinking it was assembled 180 out. I've only rebuilt American v-8s and I've never been inside one of these but I'm assuming this basic error can be made assembling it as well. My question is what now?
September 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Grab a repair manual and confirm the timing marks are right or wrong. Then you can try toretime the engine. Once you retime it, perform a leak down test to see if there is engine damage. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kiteboardingjones Comments: @Racecar80 - I'm seeing the same thing on my 914-4 with single carb. I think my car is only running on #1 and #2. The plugs are fouled only on #3 and #4 so I'm pretty sure they are not firing because I also pulled the wires and saw no change in the way the engine was running. I verified the value adjustment and they are perfect. I swapped the plugs and verified the gap but no change. Car is timed correctly. Now at a loss as to what to check next.
August 21, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would perform a compression and leak down test to see if there is engine damage. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Greg Comments: My 82 911sc misses and backfires until it is driven for about 20 minutes then it runs well. I replaced the ignition box, coil, injectors, wires, and plugs. No effect. Any ideas what could be left?
July 30, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery problem. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
werner Comments: I was driving my 1987 porsche turbo and it began to stater and finally turned off. it seams that it has no fuel and no spark. any idea what went wrong?
July 25, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be a number of things. You are going to have to find out what is missing from the picture. I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mikeb Comments: My 914 will turn over and fire with starter fluid and then it shuts right back off. Any ideas of what the problem is?
Thanks
July 5, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like the fuel pump isn't working. Check fuel pressure. volume and quality. Then if it is n't good, check power to the fuel pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
GDS Comments: My 1972 914 has decided not to start. In checking the vacuum unit on the distributor, "Remove the hose from the carburetor and suck it with your mouth. The breaker points should be moving a bit" -I have no movement of the points. I wondering is there any way to get the car started even though the vacuum advance may be faulty?
July 2, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.

With that said, your engine should start with the advance stuck. even if it was stuck advanced, it would start and run, even if rough.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Spike Comments: I just installed a 1984 3.0 engine into my 78'SC body, it seems that the mating of the wiring is correct and got it to start and run rough a couple of times, now it won't start. I am getting power from the DME to the coil but no spark. Where do I start?
June 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check to see if the signal from the crank sensor is getting to the DME. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Racecar80 Comments: I have a '74 914 2.0 & just did a complete rebuild w parts from pelican; new cam, pistons & jugs, rings etc, etc. The engine has dual weber 34's on it. It starts great and after it warms up will idle pretty well a little rough maybe, it rev's up strong with no load In Garage, but is a dog when you try to accelerate driving. I smoke tested it to look for vacume leaks ok. But i notice that when i pull #1 &/or #3 plugwires off the distributor cap, there's no change at idle. Compression is even on all cylinders 110psi & spark is good too. Anyone have any suggestions?
June 10, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you checked exhaust backpressure? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jim Comments: i have a 1976 911s. Accelerates well but as soon as i back off on the gas, she produces a gun shot style backfire. I have checked exhaust system for leaks....none. I am scaring the heck outa people!!
April 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be running rich and firing from the excessive fuel. Or there is an air leak in a manifold. I would check for an air leak first. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bandit Comments: Thank you for your prompt reply, the ignition system has a powerful crystal clear with a tint of blue spark that jumps clear to a 1/4" plugs are new, to make it short is a fuel problem since the injectors are not getting power, fuel pressure steady 30 lbs. I have a six pin connector with four pins used that I'm not sure how to ohm check, also the tachometer quit ? Regards. Bandit
April 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the tachometer is not working properly, then it may be a trigger problem. Many fuel injection systems will not turn on the fuel pump or fire the injectors unless it knows the engine is turning. If it thinks the engine is not turning, then it might be the flywheel sensor. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Bandit Comments: I have a 1976 Porsche 914 2.0 Starts, runs for about ten seconds and quits, I am not getting any power to the fuel injectors while it cranks and runs, can anyone help me I need a specific procedure for checking the inlet pressure sensor either with an ohmeter o with voltage I don't own a sophisticated tester. Thanks, Jaime
April 18, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Well, the old way that we used to test to see if they were any good was to just suck on them. If you could suck through them, then they were bad. If they held a vacuum, then they were good. Not scientific, but very useful for checking the units when we found them at the local swapmeets. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
AL Comments: I have a 1989 turbo. Problem is the engine will cut out without warning. This can happen while driving or idleing. I think it's the cdi unit. They make 2 types for this car. I would like to replace but cannot find any.
April 12, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We can rebuild these if you'd like. I will forward your email address to our sales department and they can fill you in on all the details. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Bandit Comments: I have a 1976 Porsche 914 2.0 It turns over real good I have a good spark but fails to start, any help? Thanks
March 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: To start the car, you need compression, fuel, spark and proper timing. Guaranteed, it's one of those. I would probably check the timing first - I've had issues with my 914-4 in the past not starting when I messed with the timing in the distributor. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Troy Comments: I have a 1982 911sc. Car will run great, but at times, it will just cut out - for no reason whatsoever. Just stops running. Sometimes I can jump start while running and most others, I will have to wait up to 30 minutes until it will start again. This problem has become more frequent as time passes. I have replaced the starter and have had the fuel system looked at. Do you have any thoughts? Thank You.
January 30, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a hot start vapor lock problem, like the one I spoke about in this thread today: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/591429-75-carrera-hot-start-problem.html - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Scott Comments: I have a 70 914 with a 1.7.. It is stumbling on acceleration. It had a 009 dist. I changed it to a Mallory and Mallory coil. It is a little better but still stumbling. I have EMPI carb, single barrel, not sure of the size, came with the car. Am I under carbed, jet combo info. I could use some suggestions. Oh ya, idles fine and accel is fine without a load.
January 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm guessing indeed that your jetting is way off. I would use a handheld O2 meter to check the exhaust and see if you're going rich or lean on acceleration, and then that will guide you on what changes you need to make to the carb jetting. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Chronictinkerer Comments: I have a 1980 911SC. Cranks but won't fire when hot. After 2 hrs sitting with hood open it will start. Changed the coil, no change. Definitely a hot soak problem. What else can I try?
Thank you.
January 17, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Open up the air filter and reach under there and push up on the sensor plate that is in there. You should hear the injectors make a "meow" sound. See if it starts after that. Sounds like a hot start problem that is typical of CIS systems. You need to either replace the fuel accumulator or the check valve in the fuel pump (which requires replacing the pump). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
charles Comments: I have a 1986 944 turbo, 66,000 original miles, took to shop to get oil leak fixed, and it started missing on the highway at any level of speed, new wires, new rotor, new fuel pump, new filter, new tps sensor, now they want to replace maf $1000, tested and it has no problem with the volt meter, car does not miss under acceleration or deceleration, only at level speed in any gear can be at 30, 40, all the way up to 100, but once again only misses on a level plane, can anybody help?? thanks charles 325-518-6073
October 14, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by getting one of those meters that allows you to monitor the mixture. If it's really rich or lean, then you might get missing, and that might be an indicator of whether or not the MAF is going out. If you've replaced everything on the ignition, then I doubt it's a problem there. Or, swap out the MAF with a friend's one that works to see if that solves the problem. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
ken Comments: I have a 1985 944,just stated working on,other people tryed to fix it,new air flow sensor,pressure regulator,pressure damper. I put new spark plugs,cleaned injectors, it now trys to start but floods out,If pull the rail out and turn it over it runs till the gas out, and the injectors are a spraying while it is runing,i ordered a throttle switch,I have not checked the pressure on the rail yet,am I on the right track? ken
October 11, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking duel pressure volume and quality. If good, the engine may be lacking good spark when starting. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
toyboy Comments: I have installed a new engine in my 1985 944 the starter is trying to engauge but wont, if i bench test it it is ok. The engine turns easy, there is a wire coming off of the battery that appears to rout to starter going around booster however if I hook this wire to starter then it will engauge when battery ic conected. cant figure out where this wire goes any advise
August 24, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There should be two powered wires connected to the starter. One goes directly to the battery and powers the motor. The other comes from the ignition switch area and powers the solenoid. When the solenoid is engaged, then it automatically applies power to the starter motor. So, if you hook the cable from the battery to the solenoid terminal, the starter will engage automatically when you connect the battery. Bottomline, connect to the other terminal. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
gb Comments: I installed a slow trickle charger on my 914-4. Went to start the car and it would not start. Did run 24 hrs ago with no problem and engine started. Radio and all electronics went on, but when I turned the key the starter just whined at a high pitch. Engine did not turn over. Could it be that that starter is getting too much juice?

GB
August 23, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be one of many things:
- Igntion switch (replace)
- Old, worn out wiring with high resistance (add hot start relay)
- Missing or loose ground strap (reconnect)
- Weak battery (strong enough to power radio, but not starter?)

Try putting a big charger on the battery and seeing if that helps. I would probably start too by replacing the battery or at least having it tested.
- Wayne at Pelican Parts
 
729146 Comments: I have a 72 914-6 and just installed the engine after the
car was not running for 30 years but am not getting any spark what do i need to look for cdi is working but no power to the coil.

Joe
August 13, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think you just need to go through and check all the connections. There are fuses in the back too on the relay board that can be loose, as well as relays that can have corroded contacts. The relay board itself can get old and corroded internally too. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Dave Comments: Hi,
I have a 914 Porsche, year 1974. I'd like to replace the ignition lock cylinder. Can anyone help me find my way through it? Thanks in advance. Dave
March 23, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sure can, see this tech article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_ignition_switch/914_ignition_switch.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dave Comments: Hi,
I have a 914 Porsche, year 1974. I'd like to replace the ignition lock cylinder. Can anyone help me find my way through it. Thanks in advance. Dave
March 23, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sure can, see this tech article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_ignition_switch/914_ignition_switch.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Barry Comments: I have a 968 that is running rough up to about 1300 rpm, and the "EX" warning light comes on from time to time.

The manual has NO mention of what this EX light tells me. Does anybody know what it means?


Any ideas ?
February 13, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be to tell you there is a fault. Try to read the fault codes. See attached document. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Sean Comments: Hi there,

I am trying to find a Magneti Marelli breaker point plate/rotar arm from a Marelli distributor. I own a 1970 911T, which will not fire up. I have attached a picture any idea??

thanks

Sean
February 10, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
cp Comments: do you have a schematic & thead for a 6 point cdi box or any more information for a 1983 911sc.
January 9, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
MING Comments: IS THERE A PROBLEM IF I USE PORSCHE 944 IGNITION COILS IN MY 928 PORSCHE ?
October 16, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure, but I don't think so. The 928 is basically two 944 engines put together. It's probably worth a try, and I doubt you would blow anything up. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
XNissanTech Comments: This era of Nissan is notorious for faulty STARTER RELAYS - most all models in Nissan's lineup are prone to having this failure. Have someone turn the key to the "start" position while you are touching the relay - if it does not "click", the relay is most likely the problem.
September 18, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Indeed, my 1988 Pathfinder once had this problem happen to it! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
isaac Comments: my Nissan Maxima 96 3000cc Wont turn on sometimes. It happens only when the engine is warm.I changed fuel pump new battery and new srarter, please help.
July 19, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hot start problems can be caused by many different things, but usually it's the starter. When an old, tired starter gets hot, it can sometimes stop working. If it were my car, I would probably replace the starter with a new unit first. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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