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Concours Corner: The Basics: Washing Your Engine Part I
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Pelican Technical Article:

Concours Corner: The Basics: Washing Your Engine Part I

Bev Frohm






Tape, Baggies, toothbrush, plastic wrap, rags, 2 plastic trash bags, towels, note pad, rubber bands, gloves

Applicable Models:

Porsche 911 (1965-89)
Porsche 912 (1965-69)
Porsche 930 Turbo (1976-89)

Parts Required:

engine cleaner

Hot Tip:

High pressure hose needed.

Performance Gain:

Clean engine

Complementary Modification:

Clean the underside too.
Sixth in a series...

Cleaning the engine at first looks like a daunting task, but if you take your time and have patience the benefits will last for years.

Let's assume you have an older Porsche whose engine has never been touched beyond changing the oil and minor maintenance. You look at all the grease and gunk and want to say "Forget it!" My 911E was like that, the car had been raced, rallied and toured to the point I had over 300,000 miles on it. The engine was well maintained and clean by those standards. But not where I thought a person could put their hands in there without coming out with a grease trophy.

So where do you start? With a good engine wash. Take a can of engine cleaner (GUNK or some other comparable product) and go down to the local "Do It Yourself" (DIY) car wash. Why the DIY, because;

A) The DIY tanks are set up for yucky engine junk and will not hurt the environment
B) Most of us do not have a high-pressure hose at home; you'll need it.
C) The area around your car will be a mess afterwards

Here are the following things you will need to take with you on your journey to the local DIY (do-it-yourselfer).

Tape, Baggies, toothbrush, plastic wrap, rags, 2 plastic trash bags, towels, note pad, rubber bands, gloves and lots of quarters.

First thing to do is protect your electrical components. Take a baggie and put it over the distributor, next use the rubber band or tape to secure the baggie in place. Each model is unique on where the electrical components are located, my 911E has electronics on the left side of the engine. I use the plastic wrap to protect this area and tape to secure it. Look anywhere else the water may cause you car-starting problems. If you have exposed carburetors, use the plastic wrap or Baggies to protect them.

Next thing I do is disconnect the coil wire, this way I won't pull a no-brainer of starting the car with plastic inside the engine. You can guess why I started doing this. Write yourself a note to reconnect the coil wire and put it on the steering wheel. On the note pad, write down the places you put the plastic and tape/rubber bands, it may seem redundant but better safe than sorry. Now take the towels and place them over you fenders and the deck lid. This will protect your paint from any debris and chemicals that may over spray. I suggest you wear old clothes while cleaning your engine and use gloves to protect your hands from the chemicals (latex is best).

Now you are ready to attack the built up yucky gunk. Take your engine cleaner and spray it liberally in the areas of the engine that have the most built up grease on them. Let the engine cleaner soak for a few minutes, it will start eating away at the grease and dirt. Depending on how bad the build up is, this can take anywhere from a few minutes to 20 minutes. You probably will not get it all this first go around, so keep that in mind. While the engine cleaner is soaking, take the toothbrush and gently work the engine cleaner on the worst spots, if you have a severe build up, you may have to do this with a larger (not stiffer) brush. Once you have determined the engine cleaner has stopped working, you are ready to steam clean.

Set the DIY's wand setting to engine or steam clean (it may be slightly different depending on where you live). Take care not to use the wand on the exterior paint of your car. The heat and pressure from the wand was not meant for your paint. Now use the wand inside the engine compartment to steam away the engine cleaner and grease. Be patient and get the wand onto the nooks and crannies. Do not forget to get the sides of the engine compartments as well, dirt gets kicked up into the engine from the fan and always seems to find it's way on the shelves of the engine.

While you are steaming the inside of the engine, make sure you do not get water inside your plastic covers. Once you are satisfied you have taken out as much dirt as possible (this go around), set the wand to rinse. The rinse water usually has a softening agent and will rinse the chemicals out of the engine.

A word of warning, GUNK works great but smells horrible. If you use GUNK, do not do this on the same day you are going to use the car for a date or tour. It takes a couple days for the smell to go away. There are other engine cleaners out there, I have tried the Citrus ones (they smell better) and GUNK. For the nasty jobs I use the GUNK, for the easier ones (like the new car) I use the Citrus engine cleaners.

When you finish rinsing the engine out shut off the wand. Now take the rags you brought with you and wipe down the engine. Make sure you use some pressure on the rags while wiping it down. The grease has softened because for the heat of the water and will come off easily in your rag. When you are finished with one rag (because it is too dirty or wet) put it in one of the plastic trash bags. Keep wiping down until the engine is rather dry or you run out of rags. Next take the towels off the deck lid and fenders. Wipe down the paint with the part of the towels that did not get wet or exposed to the chemicals. When done with the towels, put these in the other trash sack.

Now you are ready to get the engine ready for starting. First take ALL the plastic, tape and rubber bands out of the engine. Next reconnect the coil wire and make sure there are not any other foreign objects in the engine, like towels, toothbrushes or gloves. Check your notepad to make sure you got all your protective wrapping out.

You may want to put a few more quarters in the machine and rinse down the area you have been working. Chances are some of your greasy gunk might be on your shoes or get on someone else's, be considerate.

Sometimes our Porsche do not want to start right away after a washing, make sure you give it plenty of time to start and take care not to flood the engine. If you protected you electrical components from water, you Porsche should not have any problems starting up.

If you should have a problem, push the car into the sunshine and open the deck lid. Within a few minutes the components should dry out and you'll be on your way.

If your engine was really bad, you may have to do the engine wash a couple times to get the worst junk out. Bare in mind, the grease and gunk took years to get there and it will not give up its home easily.

We'll talk about getting you engine clean in a series of articles. Next time I talk about cleaning your fan and other components.

- Bev Frohm

Bev Frohm is the owner of 'Bevees, a 1970 911T that has won many concours events in the Southern California regions of PCA.  Her car was chosen by PCNA to represent the 1970 911T at Porsche's 50th Anniversary at Monterey.  Bev is also the web site coordinator for the Orange Coast PCA Region.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Paul Comments: One product that I use is Simple Green. I will usually spray it on and leave it for a day or so and re-spray and hose off. It doesn't smell too bad and wont tear up the driveway.
August 11, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
porchnut Comments: In lieu of using Gunk try using Kerosene, it disolves oil and grease really well.
June 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
mr. louie Comments: can I purchase all the technical articles on the 1987 Porsche 928-s-4. if so how. louie 903-777-2400
April 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Feel free to print them out as needed. No need to purchase them - Nick at Pelican Parts  
gare Comments: I washed a 1991 911 motor . I Covered the air intake with bags and the distributer . However it's been 24 hrs and it will start but it's popping and back firing . Any ideas ? I have checked distributer and I have used a compressor to blow out engine still popping and back firing. If I put my pedal to the floor the revs are fine then when I take foot of pedal and idols post and backfires . Help Please .
August 4, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Engine timing is off. Check rotor position with correlation to TDC. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
IGTARD Comments: Worked for my 1952 Buick Special, 1955 Chevy 210, 1957 Chevy 210, '64 Skylark, 1960 GMC 1/2 ton, '71 Monte Carlo, '88 MR2, '89 MR2 SC. '93RX7 but for the 1976 Porsche 914 I'm finally letting Craig do it.
July 5, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Porsche is a unique car - Nick at Pelican Parts  
saxman Comments: I wash my engine on my 944 and now it won't start! and I did not rap any of the electrical connections. not smart on my part!
May 27, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would open things up and let it air dry. It will start once things dry out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Del Comments: Would not recommend Gunk, I sprayed it on my 944s2 engine and it warped my housing behind the distributor leaving gaps to let moisture in and new or used one is not available. This part is magneisium an so is the valve cover which it also ate the paint off. I had to powder coat both items after I did fiberglass repairs.
April 28, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Moondoggy Comments: I live the San Fernando Valley, Ca. I'm looking for company that will pull my 1972 1.7 motor out and completely detail the motor and make it look like new. Replace hoses, powder coat, paint it, rewire it etc. You get the picture. The outside, interior has been done. All that is missing is to do the motor. I'm not expecting cheap. I just it done right and complete. Who do you recommend?
December 2, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check with Callas Rennsport in Torrance, Ca. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rocky Comments: used engine cleaner on my car and the smell is horrible, how do I get that smell out
October 12, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Let it run for a while, outside. It will burn off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
herbie Comments: Used them all the best by far, a product called "Engine"
Made by Swissvax

February 21, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
NickF Comments: It says in my Boxster Owner's Manual not to wash the engine without making provisions to protect the engine bay afterwards with some sort of protectant. Can anyone elaborate on this. Thanks
November 24, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not a huge fan of washing the engine under any circumstances. Water is not meant to get in there in any great quantity - adding it can cause issues with spark plug coils, electrical connections, etc, especially after many years when the seals have begun to dry out and crack. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Global Rider Comments: TIP! The best degreaser far far is a product made by Swish Maintenance called FACTO AT 30. I've used all the others...no contest!

I've been using this product since the mid 80s when it was called INDO 505 and all of my motorcycles and soon to be mine 993 are MINT.

It is a water-based degreaser that does not eat up asphalt driveways and has no heavy petroleum diesel-like odor.

September 12, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Anthony Comments: Before I do this I want make sure it is okay on a Porsche Boxster. I don't want to damage anything.
August 15, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should be, although the Boxster engine is completely hidden and usually is just dusty, not dirty. I would just use some Windex, some paper towels and a box of Q-Tips to clean the Boxster engine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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