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HomeTech Articles > 911 Spark Plug Replacement

Guest Technical Article:

911 Spark Plug Replacement

Bob Tindel
bob@pelicanparts.com

This procedure is for the 911SC, but the other 911s are similar.

If your engine has a hard-to-correct miss, it may need a new set of spark plug wires. In some cases, when the wires are bad, you can get quite a light show when you open the engine lid at night. With the engine running, you may see sparks jumping from the spark plug cables. Another indicator of bad wires is if you get a little shock when you touch the plug wires with the engine running (be careful of the fan and AC belts).

It is a good practice to replace the distributor cap and rotor along with the wires. These two parts aren’t expensive, and replacement of them will ensure strong ignition. You can assemble the plug wires to the new distributor cap before installation. That makes it easier to observe how the old wires are routed around each other into the distributor cap, and how the braided ground straps are routed around the wires. When assembling the wires to the cap, apply a thin coat of dielectic grease on the end of each wire, around the outside of each nipple on the distributor cap and coil, and inside the end of each spark plug connector. This will ensure good electrical contact, and help with disassembly in the future if it is necessary. Be sure to orient the new distributor cap the same as the old one, and to insert the plug wires in the cap in the correct firing order.

This is also a good time to replace the spark plugs if needed. Do not use any anti-seize or lubricant on the spark plug threads—it can cause a plug to back out.

After you assemble the new wires to the new cap, remove the two air hoses (one plastic and one paper/wire) on the driver’s side of the engine. Then unfasten the two hose clamps along the top of the engine cooling shroud, and the clamp that holds the paper/wire hose onto the heater blower at the driver’s side of the engine. Move this hose (the one that goes across the top of the engine to the passenger side) out of the way to allow better access to the plug wires. Unsnap the old distributor cap, and remove it along with the old wires, by carefully pulling them out from below the intake runners. When removing the old wires from the spark plugs, it may help to rotate the plug connector first to break its seal with the spark plug, and then pull off the connector.

Install the new rotor, seating it firmly and in the same orientation as the old one. Install the new cap, making sure that it is seated in the notch on the distributor body. Route the wires in the same path as the old ones, and attach the ground straps as before. Carefully insert the spark plug connectors, observing the firing order of the engine (Pelican Parts plug wires have the plug number stamped on each wire, to make installation easier). You should feel each connector snap into place onto the end of the spark plug. Reinstall the air hoses, and you are ready for a test drive!

Bob at Pelican Parts

Comments and Suggestions:
CraigComments: My 1968 912 has a 1973 2.4 f.i. One problem is the charging light in the dash is on strong at idle and gradually dims as the revs go up but never goes completely off. The alternator is almost new and tests o.k., and the regulator is new. Is it possible that the bulb has to be upgraded to be compatible with the '73 alternator? My next question concerns the CIS K-jetronic system running too rich. The car sat for 7 years with old gas in the tank. I removed the tank and had it resealed inside and then went through the rest of the system. I cleaned out the lines and fuel pump, changed the filter, opened up the warm running compensator and the fuel distributor-both were very clean, piston and air valve move freely and is adjusted as per the manual. The cold start valve checks out o.k. The engine pulls strong at higher rpm but idles rough and puts out sooty black smoke. When I disconnect the vacuum hose from the aux. air device, the revs go way up, indicating a too-rich condition. The mixture screw on the throttle body is backed almost completely out for it to idle. The ignition timing is set and the vacuum and mechanical advance are working fine. Any input on these problems would be greatly appreciated. P.S.- this engine has no throttle position control pressure regulator but was previously running o.k. without it.
October 19, 2011
Joe RComments: I've heard that reaching the plugs in a 3.2 Carrera is tough, is there a special tool that makes this easier?
October 16, 2011
87 targaComments: I'm replacing the plugs in an 87 targa and they are a pain to remove do I need to remove the valve cover to access the plug better
September 26, 2011
BradComments: I have a 2000 Carrera with 31K miles. Bought it 2 years ago with 19K. All necessary maintenance is being done at a Porsche dealer. They are only now recommending spark plug replacement at $1400. Was never mentioned previously. Car is not misfiring. Is this necessary ? How long should a set of plugs last ?
June 13, 2011
Steve L.Comments: I recently replaced the plugs on my '87 3.2 for the first time. The spark plug threads in a couple of the cylinders gave me the creeps. It's impossible to see how bad things are, but somebody messed up some threads on cylinders #1 and 3. Adding to my anxiety, was the fact that none of the plugs were properly tightened in the head.

I have used never seize on spark plug threads for decades and they have never backed out. In this case, I put never seize on the threads to slide the new plugs through the messed up threads into the engine.

In order to install the new plugs, I slid a short 2mm rubber fuel hose over the ceramic end of the plug for a tight fit. The hose should be just long enough to extend about two and one half inches out of the head. I then slid the plugs into the heads and hand tightened the plugs into the heads turning the rubber hose.

The hose allows the plugs to walk their way into the threads without possibility of further thread damage. Once the plugs are hand tight, pop the hose off the plugs and tighten with socket.

I will re-check the plugs for tightness in a few hundred miles.
April 29, 2011
CabmanComments: I just got a quote from a Porsche dealership for $2,200 to replace the spark plug wires on my 1987 911 Cab. Can this be? Is it that much work? Also using strict Porsche OEM wires from Germany cost almost $700. They are insured proper fit and are warranteed for 2 years. Worth it? The car is misfiring and it needs to be done, but curious of cost. Any help?
March 24, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The wires can be expensive, but I believe our OEM German wires cost about $400 or so, not $700. Probably not worth the Genuine Porsche ones. Also, 2200 is highway robbery - you can do it yourself in an afternoon with about $50 worth of tools from Sears. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
JerPComments: What are the proper gap and torque on the spark plugs for a 1985 911?
October 2, 2010
wkbergmanComments: Good stuff, as usual.
Instead of putting any lube on plug threads [Porsche fears that might prevent good electrical contact] I scrape my pencil a couple of times across the threads, depositing some carbon powder as lube. Never a worry about a seized thread.
August 4, 2010
KelboyComments: I have 2005 porsche whats a good price to tune the engine ? Also what type of syn Oil should be used 5w30 05 10w40 fully sny . How long does it take to change sparkplugs and what should they be set at ?
July 14, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: On an '05, there's not much to do to "tune" the engine. Regular maintenance would include new plugs, new air filter and a new belt. That's about it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
bjm12001Comments: I have an 89 Carrera that I noticed a #3 sparkplug electrode that was black on the back & light ash on the tip along with being "wet" during a routine valve adjustment 10 years ago. I replaced the #3 fuel injector and the problem went away. During a routine valve adjustment in 2008 I noticed #3 sparkplug slightly blackened on the back but not really "wet" but didn’t do anything at the time other than replace with a new WR7DC Bosch plug. In 2009 12 months & ~2K miles later I removed the plug to verify there was not a problem & it was the same issue I had 10 years ago. I know injectors go bad over time but what are the odds in 10 years I've had only 2 bad injectors & it was #3 injector both times? Am I doing something during the valve adjustment that is causing this?

Barry
December 31, 2009
chrisComments: Thanks for all your info, I'll buy my next parts from you guys. Only this spark plug replacement article didn't address how to replace the plugs, only the wires. I'm trying to figure out if I need to remove some things in order to reach the plugs on the right side. 1996 - 911
November 19, 2009

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