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Upper Engine Mount Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Upper Engine Mount Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$200

Talent:

***

Tools:

Set of sockets, (10, 13, 14, 15mm), T25 Torx

Applicable Models:

Volvo V70 (1998-01)
Volvo V70 2.4T (2001)
Volvo V70 AWD (1998-99)
Volvo V70 GLT (1998-00)
Volvo V70 GLT SE (2000)
Volvo V70 R (1998)
Volvo V70 R AWD (1999-00)
Volvo V70 T5 (1998-01)
Volvo V70 X/C (2001)
Volvo V70 X/C AWD (1998-00)
Volvo V70 X/C AWD SE (2000)

Parts Required:

Motor mounts and fasteners

Hot Tip:

Replace in pairs

Performance Gain:

Reduce engine vibration

Complementary Modification:

Replace transmission mounts

The engine in your Volvo V70 has to be secured to the chassis in order to provide maximum power transfer. Volvo achieves this by multiple motor mounts, an upper strut style and a hydraulic motor mount (liquid filled). These mounts have hollow chambers inside that are filled with fluid that helps to create a stiff engine mount while maintaining the highest level of vibration dampening.

When an engine mount begins to fail, you will feel more vibrations from the engine. The engine may sag in the engine bay or the engine may have excessive movement under torque if a mount is broken. When working under your vehicle, you may notice fluid leaking out of your engine mount(s). This means the mount has failed and should be replaced. Some V70 models (for example all-wheel drive and turbocharged) do not have a lot of room for engine movement and access to the mounts. You will have to replace one side at a time while supporting the engine from below.

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with replacing the upper strut style engine mount on the Volvo V70 with a normally aspirated 5-cylinder engine. Other engines are similar.

Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve, as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with replacing the upper strut style engine mount (green arrow) on the Volvo V70 with a normally aspirated 5-cylinder engine.
Figure 1

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with replacing the upper strut style engine mount (green arrow) on the Volvo V70 with a normally aspirated 5-cylinder engine. Other engines are similar.

Inspect the upper mount for cracks or tears (green arrow) during each service.
Figure 2

Inspect the upper mount for cracks or tears (green arrow) during each service. My subject vehicle does need a new mount, as indicated by the tear in the rubber.

First, you are going to have to remove the engine covers on the cylinder head.
Figure 3

First, you are going to have to remove the engine covers on the cylinder head. Start by removing the eight T30 Torx bolts (green arrows). Once the bolts are removed, there are two clips you have to detach. See step 3 for detailed information.

The Torx bolts that hold the engine covers can be troublesome, especially on older vehicles.
Figure 4

The Torx bolts that hold the engine covers can be troublesome, especially on older vehicles. The heads become rusty and they are frequently over-tightened. If you find a fastener is stuck or stripped, use an Allen bit about the same size as the Torx hole (depending on how stripped it is) and hammer it in. Once it is tight, break it free with a quick motion. When tightening them, do not over-tighten, just snug them up.

Once the Torx fasteners have been removed, unclip the timing belt cover retainers.
Figure 5

Once the Torx fasteners have been removed, unclip the timing belt cover retainers. Pull them away from the cover while lifting the cover up.

Once unclipped, lift the timing belt cover up and remove it from the engine.
Figure 6

Once unclipped, lift the timing belt cover up and remove it from the engine.

Then remove the cylinder head cover from the cylinder head.
Figure 7

Then remove the cylinder head cover from the cylinder head.

Counterhold the 14mm nut (green arrow) while removing the 13mm bolt (red arrow).
Figure 8

Counterhold the 14mm nut (green arrow) while removing the 13mm bolt (red arrow).

Move the firewall side of the mount.
Figure 9

Move the firewall side of the mount. Loosen the 15mm fasteners (green arrow). Just loosen it about six turns, do not remove it. 

Lift the bracket up and off the engine mount (red arrow).
Figure 10

Lift the bracket up and off the engine mount (red arrow). Move it aside. Then, remove the four 14mm engine mount fasteners (green arrows). Then remove the 10mm fastener for the grounding strap (yellow arrow).

Remove the engine mount and bracket from the engine.
Figure 11

Remove the engine mount and bracket from the engine.

Mark the position of the rubber insulator in bracket.
Figure 12

Mark the position of the rubber insulator in bracket. Using a shop press, press the old rubber mount out of the bracket (green arrow). Then install the new mount so it is even on both sides of the bore. Install the new engine mount. Install the engine mount fasteners and tighten them. Reassemble the remaining items and recheck that all of the engine mount nuts are tight.



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