Volvo Parts Catalog Volvo Accessories Catalog Volvo Technical Articles Volvo Tech Forums
 
  Search our site:    
View Recent Cars  |   Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    
 >  >
Front Brake Caliper and Hose Replacing
 
Bookmark and Share

Pelican Technical Article:

Front Brake Caliper and Hose Replacing

Nick Czerula

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$250

Talent:

****

Tools:

7mm Allen wrench, flathead screwdriver, 13mm line wrench, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, lug wrench, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Volvo V70 (1998-01)
Volvo V70 2.4T (2001)
Volvo V70 AWD (1998-99)
Volvo V70 GLT (1998-00)
Volvo V70 GLT SE (2000)
Volvo V70 R (1998)
Volvo V70 R AWD (1999-00)
Volvo V70 T5 (1998-01)
Volvo V70 X/C (2001)
Volvo V70 X/C AWD (1998-00)
Volvo V70 X/C AWD SE (2000)

Parts Required:

Front brake caliper, front brake hose, brake fluid

Hot Tip:

Bleed entire brake system

Performance Gain:

Great brake feel

Complementary Modification:

Replace brake pads and rotors at same time

Volvo V70 service brakes consist of hydraulic brake calipers, one at each wheel. When the brake pedal is pressed, brake fluid is forced out of the brake master cylinder and through the brake lines to each brake caliper. Pistons in the calipers push out and clamp brake pads against the brake rotors (or discs), thus slowing down the vehicle. As it ages, the brake caliper can leak fluid from the piston seal and may also become corroded or restricted, resulting in poor brake performance.

If a brake caliper is not performing at 100%, you may notice a slight pull to one side when braking. You can service each brake caliper individually or both at the same time. Corrosion from road salt and grime may affect moving parts of the caliper other than the hydraulic piston. Sometimes you can clean the sliding mechanical parts of the caliper, including the 7mm Allen sliding bolts (see replacement procedure below). Doing this should result in the caliper operating smoothly again. But if this does not work, I recommend replacing the calipers in pairs to maintain an even brake feel. If one caliper is failing, the other will not be far behind.

Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve, as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Lift and support the axle of the vehicle you are replacing the brake calipers on. See our tech article on jacking your vehicle.

Remove the wheels on the axle you are replacing the brake calipers on.

There are two ways to reduce the amount of brake fluid loss when replacing your brake caliper. One way is to clamp the hose with a hose clamp tool to prevent fluid from leaking. This method could lead to a damaged hose if done incorrectly.

I prefer to use the second method.
Figure 1

I prefer to use the second method. Depress the brake pedal half way and hold it in place with a stick or brake pedal depressing tool (red arrow). This will keep fluid in the master cylinder from leaking.

Using a flathead screwdriver, slowly press the brake caliper piston in.
Figure 2

Using a flathead screwdriver, slowly press the brake caliper piston in. This allows the brake caliper to be pulled off the brake rotor easily. I like to pry between the outer brake pad and brake rotor. This way there is less chance of damaging the caliper piston.

Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the brake caliper anti-rattle spring (green arrow) by prying it out while securing it with your hand.
Figure 3

Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the brake caliper anti-rattle spring (green arrow) by prying it out while securing it with your hand. The spring can pop off and go flying. Be sure to hold it steady.

Lever out one end of the rattle spring, then rotate it and pull the remaining end out of the caliper.
Figure 4

Lever out one end of the rattle spring, then rotate it and pull the remaining end out of the caliper.

Working at the brake caliper using a 13mm line wrench, loosen the brake hose (red arrow).
Figure 5

Working at the brake caliper using a 13mm line wrench, loosen the brake hose (red arrow). Do not remove it. You will unscrew the hose from the caliper later. You can use a regular 13mm open-end wrench. However, you risk damaging the hex on the brake line.

Remove rubber plugs from the brake caliper mounting fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 6

Remove rubber plugs from the brake caliper mounting fasteners (green arrows). I like to lever them out using a small flathead screwdriver.

Next, using a 7mm Allen bit, remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (green arrows).
Figure 7

Next, using a 7mm Allen bit, remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (green arrows). Remove the brake caliper from the mounting bracket. Do not allow the brake caliper to hang from the brake hose. I like to rest it on top of the brake rotor. If you are going to leave it unattended, secure it with stiff wire to the coil spring on the strut.

Remove the brake caliper from the mounting bracket and unscrew the brake hose from the caliper.
Figure 8

Remove the brake caliper from the mounting bracket and unscrew the brake hose from the caliper.

If you want to replace the brake hose, loosen the 11mm brake line nut (red arrow) using a line wrench (inset).
Figure 9

If you want to replace the brake hose, loosen the 11mm brake line nut (red arrow) using a line wrench (inset).

Then unscrew the metal brake line from the hose (red arrow).
Figure 10

Then unscrew the metal brake line from the hose (red arrow). The spring clip will come off with the steel line. Then remove the hose (green arrow) from the mounting bracket and install a new one in place of it. Screw the new caliper into the brake hose. Then install the caliper in the mounting bracket. Tighten the caliper mounting fasteners and install the fastener rubber plugs and anti-rattle clip. Then tighten the caliper brake hose. Bleed the brakes. See our tech article on bleeding brakes.



Bookmark and Share
Comments and Suggestions:
nckmallory Comments: Thanks for the how-to. You said not to let the caliper hang from the hose; I've done this the last couple times I've changed my pads. Should I get a new brake hose? I don't want to be driving around with damaged brake lines.
September 11, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the hose is stretched or dry rotted, yes. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Beau Comments: Great! Very clear, very confidence-inspiring. Not that I have not done it before but it's still nice to have things spelled out. Thanks!
September 8, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

  Search our site:    

View Cart & CheckOut | Project List | Order Status |  Help    

 

[Home] [Customer Service] [Shopping Cart] [Project/Wish List]
  [Privacy Statement]  [Contact Us] [About Us] [Shipping] [Careers]

Copyright © Pelican Parts Inc. -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page

Page last updated: Mon 12/5/2016 02:47:00 AM