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Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$150 to $300

Talent:

****

Tools:

15mm/18mm/19mm wrenches, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Volvo C30 T5 (2008-13)
Volvo C30 T5 R-Design (2008-13)

Parts Required:

Rear lower control arm

Hot Tip:

Take your time and follow the directions closely

Performance Gain:

Better handling

Complementary Modification:

Replace rear shocks

Over time, the rubber bushings inside suspension components will eventually wear out and start to deteriorate. This can manifest in a number of different handling problems. You should inspect the control arm bushings for wear every couple of years. In this article, we will focus on replacing the entire control arm. However you can buy the bushings separately and have them pressed into the arm by a local machine shop.

Begin by jacking up the rear of your C30 and placing it on jack stands. Remove the rear wheels and also the rear coil spring. See our articles on Jacking up Your C30 and Rear Coil Spring Replacement for more information. Always wear safety glasses any time you work under your car. Note that Volvo recommends replacing fastening hardware that uses a final degree torqueing method. This is due to the stretching of the bolts when they were initially tightened. You'll also need to do the final torqueing of the bolts with the car's rear suspension fully loaded. This means with the wheels on the ground.

I'd also suggest having the suspension alignment of the car checked after replacing any suspension component. Using our article, the suspension geometry should be "close enough" for the drive down to the alignment shop.

Left and right sides: Loosen and remove the 15mm bolt (green arrow) holding the control arm to the wheel hub.
Figure 1

Left and right sides: Loosen and remove the 15mm bolt (green arrow) holding the control arm to the wheel hub. When fitting the new bolt, torque the bolt with the wheels on the ground to 65Nm (47 ft/lbs.).

Left and right sides: Pull the lower control arm out of the wheel hub.
Figure 2

Left and right sides: Pull the lower control arm out of the wheel hub. You'll notice the outer control arm bushing (green arrow). Inspect the bushing for wear or cracks. Unfortunately, Volvo only sells complete control arms and not the individual bushings. The whole control arm must be replaced.

Left and right sides: Locate the 18mm nut (yellow arrow) on the control arm where it attaches to the subframe.
Figure 3

Left and right sides: Locate the 18mm nut (yellow arrow) on the control arm where it attaches to the subframe. You'll notice that there is an off-center washer behind it. This washer is an eccentric that allows the end of the control arm to be adjusted. Make a mark on the washer (indicated by the green line). When installing the new arm, you'll want to rotate the bolt until the eccentric lines up with the mark on the subframe. This will keep the suspension geometry in the same orientation. This will get you close enough to drive over to the alignment shop.

Left and right sides: Loosen and remove the 18mm nut (green arrow) while counter-holding the 19mm bolt on the opposite side (yellow arrow).
Figure 4

Left and right sides: Loosen and remove the 18mm nut (green arrow) while counter-holding the 19mm bolt on the opposite side (yellow arrow). Once the nut is removed, push the bolt back out of the control arm and subframe. Now install the new control arm. Once the car is back on the ground, torque the fasteners to 150 Nm (111 ft/lbs.).


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