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Rear Brake Caliper Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Brake Caliper Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$50 to $100

Talent:

****

Tools:

7mm hex socket, pliers, Brake piston tool/C-clamp, screwdrivers,

Applicable Models:

Volvo C30 T5 (2008-13)
Volvo C30 T5 R-Design (2008-13)

Parts Required:

Rear brake caliper

Hot Tip:

Use a pressure bleeder to bleed the system when you are done

Performance Gain:

Better braking

Complementary Modification:

Replace brake pads and discs

Over time, moisture can build up in the braking system. This can eventually lead to corrosion inside the brake caliper. This corrosion can eat away at the inside of the caliper, causing it to leak brake fluid or not work at all. A sticking caliper will typically feel like the car is pulling to one side when you brake hard.

If this is the case with your car, the caliper must be replaced. Replacing the calipers isn't hard, but does require a few special tools and can be a bit messy. Begin by jacking the car up and supporting it on jack stands. See our article on Jacking up Your C30 for more information.

Left and Right Sides - Remove the five'mm lug nuts holding the wheel/tire to the car and remove the wheel.
Figure 1

Left and Right Sides - Remove the five'mm lug nuts holding the wheel/tire to the car and remove the wheel. If you do not have an impact wrench, you'll need to slightly loosen each lug nut with the wheel on the ground. This will make it much easier to remove the lug nuts once the tire is off the ground.

Left and Right Sides - Shown here is the complete rear brake assembly on your Volvo C30.
Figure 2

Left and Right Sides - Shown here is the complete rear brake assembly on your Volvo C30. 

Left and Right Sides - Remove the retaining spring (yellow arrow) on the front of the brake caliper.
Figure 3

Left and Right Sides - Remove the retaining spring (yellow arrow) on the front of the brake caliper. These can be a little tricky to remove. I usually start at one of the ends (green arrows) and slowly work it off.  

Left and Right Sides - Pry the two plastic plugs (green arrows) out of the guide tubes.
Figure 4

Left and Right Sides - Pry the two plastic plugs (green arrows) out of the guide tubes. You'll need to access the caliper retaining pins below.

Left and Right Sides - It is helpful to spray some penetrant oil at the union between the brake line and the caliper (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

Left and Right Sides - It is helpful to spray some penetrant oil at the union between the brake line and the caliper (yellow arrow). This prevents any damage if there is corrosion on the threads.

Left and Right Sides - Use a 14mm flare nut wrench (green arrow) to loosen the brake line going to the caliper.
Figure 6

Left and Right Sides - Use a 14mm flare nut wrench (green arrow) to loosen the brake line going to the caliper. Don't unscrew it fully just yet. You just need to get it loose while still attached to the support bracket.

Left and Right Sides: The emergency brake cable must also be removed from the caliper.
Figure 7

Left and Right Sides: The emergency brake cable must also be removed from the caliper. Make sure the e-brake is not applied and use a small pry bar to move the locking pawl (green arrow) back enough to remove the cable end (yellow arrow). Use caution as the spring is under tension. Pull the cable out of the old caliper and transfer it to the new one.

Left and Right Sides - Use a 7mm hex driver to loosen both caliper retaining pins inside the guide tubes.
Figure 8

Left and Right Sides - Use a 7mm hex driver to loosen both caliper retaining pins inside the guide tubes. Once loose, lift the caliper up and off the support bracket and unscrew the brake line from the caliper. You'll now need to thread the brake line into the new caliper. Place the new caliper on the support bracket over the brake pads and reinstall the e-brake cable and pad retaining spring.

Left and Right Sides - You'll need to purge the braking system of air after installing the new caliper.
Figure 9

Left and Right Sides - You'll need to purge the braking system of air after installing the new caliper. A pressure bleeder like the one shown here makes it much easier. See our article on Bleeding Brakes for more information.

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