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Front Brake Caliper Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Front Brake Caliper Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$50 to $100

Talent:

****

Tools:

7mm hex socket, pliers, Brake piston tool/C-clamp, screwdrivers,

Applicable Models:

Volvo C30 T5 (2008-13)
Volvo C30 T5 R-Design (2008-13)

Parts Required:

Front brake caliper

Hot Tip:

Use a pressure bleeder to bleed the system when you are done

Performance Gain:

Better braking

Complementary Modification:

Replace brake pads and discs

Over time, moisture can build up in the braking system. This can eventually lead to corrosion inside the brake caliper. This corrosion can eat away at the inside of the caliper, causing it to leak brake fluid or not work at all. A sticking caliper will typically feel like the car is pulling to one side when you brake hard.

If this is the case with your car, the caliper must be replaced. Replacing the calipers isn't hard, but does require a few special tools and can be a bit messy. Begin by jacking the car up and supporting it on jack stands. See our article on Jacking up Your C30 for more information.

Left and Right Sides - Remove the five'mm lug nuts holding the wheel/tire to the car and remove the wheel.
Figure 1

Left and Right Sides - Remove the five'mm lug nuts holding the wheel/tire to the car and remove the wheel. If you do not have an impact wrench, you'll need to slightly loosen each lug nut with the wheel on the ground. This will make it much easier to remove the lug nuts once the tire is off the ground.

Left and Right Sides - Shown here is the complete front brake assembly on your Volvo C30.
Figure 2

Left and Right Sides - Shown here is the complete front brake assembly on your Volvo C30. 

Left and Right Sides - Remove the retaining spring (green arrow) on the front of the brake caliper.
Figure 3

Left and Right Sides - Remove the retaining spring (green arrow) on the front of the brake caliper. These can be a little tricky to remove. I usually start at one of the ends (yellow arrows) and slowly work it off.  

Left and Right Sides: Use a 14mm flare nut wrench (green arrow) to crack loose the brake line fitting (yellow arrow) from the caliper.
Figure 4

Left and Right Sides: Use a 14mm flare nut wrench (green arrow) to crack loose the brake line fitting (yellow arrow) from the caliper. Do not remove it. You'll want to fully unscrew the connection once the caliper is removed to reduce stress on the brake line.

Left and Right Sides - Pry the two plastic plugs (green arrows) out of the guide tubes.
Figure 5

Left and Right Sides - Pry the two plastic plugs (green arrows) out of the guide tubes. You'll need to access the caliper retaining pins below.

Left and Right Sides - Use a 7mm hex driver to loosen both caliper retaining pins inside the guide tubes.
Figure 6

Left and Right Sides - Use a 7mm hex driver to loosen both caliper retaining pins inside the guide tubes. Once they have been removed, carefully lift the caliper up and off the lower frame.

Left and Right Sides - One of the brake pads is attached to the caliper piston with an expanding spring.
Figure 7

Left and Right Sides - One of the brake pads is attached to the caliper piston with an expanding spring. Pull the brake pad out of the caliper. It may take a bit more force than you think. Now fully unscrew the brake line and have a drain pan underneath to catch the escaping fluid from both the line and the caliper. Transfer the pad (or use new ones) to the new caliper. Screw the brake line into the new caliper. Install the new caliper in the reverse order of disassembly.

Left and Right Sides - You'll need to purge the braking system of air after installing the new caliper.
Figure 8

Left and Right Sides - You'll need to purge the braking system of air after installing the new caliper. A pressure bleeder like the one shown here makes it much easier. See our article on Bleeding Brakes for more information.

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