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Pelican Technical Article:

Transmission Removal

Jared Fenton

Time:

6 hours6 hrs

Tab:

$0

Talent:

*****

Tools:

8mm, 10mm, 13mm wrenches and sockets, T40 Torx driver,

Applicable Models:

Volvo C30 T5 (2008-13)
Volvo C30 T5 R-Design (2008-13)

Parts Required:

Transmission

Hot Tip:

Drain transmission fluid prior to removal

Performance Gain:

Access to other components that need replacement, like the slave cylinder

Complementary Modification:

Change clutch

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with removing the transmission from the Volvo C30. Removing the transmission is required for certain jobs, including changing the clutch and also the clutch slave cylinder. This article is written assuming that you have already performed all the prior work to be able to remove the transmission, such as removing the axles and subframe, etc.. I highly recommend studying our technical library on the C30 before beginning this job. As always, safety first, be sure to disconnect the battery and have the car secured in the air on jack stands.

See the following articles for more information:

Jacking Up Your C30

Mass Airflow Sensor Replacement

Battery Replacement

Battery Box Removal

Air Filter Housing Removal

Front Subframe Removal

Axle Assembly Replacement

Changing Engine and Transmission Mounts

Changing Transmission Fluid

Once you have removed the battery box, MAF sensor and air filter housing, you'll be able to see the top of the transmission.
Figure 1

Once you have removed the battery box, MAF sensor and air filter housing, you'll be able to see the top of the transmission. Loosen and remove the hose clamp (yellow arrow) holding the coolant hose to the thermostat and pull the hose off. This gives you a little better access to the mounting bolts. Also remove the two 10mm nuts holding the wiring harness block to the end of the starter motor (green arrows). The nuts themselves sit inside a recessed cavity. Remove the harness block from the end of the starter.

Press the tab on the electrical connector (green arrow) going to the crankshaft sensor and pull it off.
Figure 2

Press the tab on the electrical connector (green arrow) going to the crankshaft sensor and pull it off. Now loosen and remove the 10mm nut (yellow arrow) and pull the sensor out of its mounting bore.

You'll now need to remove the gearshift cables (green arrows).
Figure 3

You'll now need to remove the gearshift cables (green arrows).

Removing the front cable is easy.
Figure 4

Removing the front cable is easy. Simply use a small flathead screwdriver to pry it off the ball pivot (green arrow). The rear cable is a little trickier. You'll need to pull the small wire-retaining clip forward (purple arrow) and lift the cable off.

This picture shows both cables disconnected.
Figure 5

This picture shows both cables disconnected. You can see the wire-retaining clip clearer in this photo. Now lift the cables out of the retaining bracket and set them aside.

You'll want to physically move the gearshift linkage (green arrow) over to access the switch below.
Figure 6

You'll want to physically move the gearshift linkage (green arrow) over to access the switch below. Press the tab on the electrical connector (purple arrow) and pull it off the reverse light switch.

Remove the 10mm bolt (green arrow) holding the ground strap to the engine (green arrow), just to the left of the slave cylinder.
Figure 7

Remove the 10mm bolt (green arrow) holding the ground strap to the engine (green arrow), just to the left of the slave cylinder.

Loosen and remove the two, long 13mm nuts holding the starter motor to the transmission bellhousing.
Figure 8

Loosen and remove the two, long 13mm nuts holding the starter motor to the transmission bellhousing. Remove the starter and set it to the side. You don't need to disconnect the electrical cables. Now pull the metal clip on the SC (yellow arrow) out and pull the hydraulic line out of the SC. Be prepared for some brake fluid to drain out.

Loosen and remove the two T40 Torx bolts (yellow arrows) holding the mount for the crankshaft position sensor to the engine.
Figure 9

Loosen and remove the two T40 Torx bolts (yellow arrows) holding the mount for the crankshaft position sensor to the engine. Remove the mount and set it aside. Now loosen and remove the three 13mm bolts (green arrows) holding the top edge of the transmission to the engine block.

Now move to the front of the engine right below where the starter is mounted.
Figure 10

Now move to the front of the engine right below where the starter is mounted. Loosen and remove the two 13mm bolts shown here (green arrows).

Move to behind the engine, below the turbocharger.
Figure 11

Move to behind the engine, below the turbocharger. Loosen and remove the three 13mm bolts shown here (green arrows).

At this point, all of the bolts securing the transmission to the engine have been removed and the transmission is only secured in place by the mount up top.
Figure 12

At this point, all of the bolts securing the transmission to the engine have been removed and the transmission is only secured in place by the mount up top.

Place a floor jack under the engine oil pan to support the weight of the engine.
Figure 13

Place a floor jack under the engine oil pan to support the weight of the engine. You'll also want to do the same with the transmission. Be sure to use a block of wood or a rubber pad (not visible in pic) to protect the bottom of both the engine and transmission.

Shown here is the transmission mount on the right side of the engine bay.
Figure 14

Shown here is the transmission mount on the right side of the engine bay. You'll need to remove the mount to lower the transmission out of the car. Begin by making sure you have the transmission firmly supported on a floor or transmission jack. Loosen and remove the 15mm bolt (yellow arrow) holding the mount to the transmission and also the four 18mm nuts (green arrows) holding the mount and upper bracket to the chassis. Don't forget to remove the two 10mm bolts (purple arrows) and the small 8mm bolt (red arrow) holding the bracket to the mount. Once the bolts are removed, lift the bracket up and out of the engine bay.

Now lift the mount assembly (green arrow) out of the engine bay.
Figure 15

Now lift the mount assembly (green arrow) out of the engine bay.

Shown here is the transmission with the mount removed.
Figure 16

Shown here is the transmission with the mount removed. You can see the mounting boss at the top (green arrow). The idea here is to lower the transmission enough so that the top of the mounting boss can clear the bottom of the frame rail to the right (yellow arrow).

Now the most dangerous part, lowering the transmission down and out of the car.
Figure 17

Now the most dangerous part, lowering the transmission down and out of the car. The idea here is to lower both jacks so that the engine sits at an angle low enough to slide the transmission off. It is wise to have a helper to assist you. Use caution, as the transmission is heavy and can easily break a bone if it falls down. You may need to use a screwdriver or breaker bar (green arrow) around the perimeter of the transmission to get it started.

And here's the final result with the transmission removed from the car.
Figure 18

And here's the final result with the transmission removed from the car.

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