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Pelican Technical Article:

Camshaft Removal

Jared Fenton

Time:

5 hours5 hrs

Tab:

$30 to $900

Tools:

8mm/10mm socket, camshaft locking tool,

Applicable Models:

Volvo C30 T5 (2008-13)
Volvo C30 T5 R-Design (2008-13)

Parts Required:

sealant, spark plug seals, VVT solenoid seals,

Hot Tip:

Read through all the associated tech articles beforehand

Performance Gain:

Removing the camshafts allows you to remove the head

Complementary Modification:

Replace ignition coils and spark plugs

The Volvo T5 engine incorporates an upper cover that retains the camshafts to the cylinder head. This design is a little different from most engines and requires special tools to relieve the spring tension on the camshafts equally. It may seem a little complex at first, but it is within the scope of the do-it-yourselfer.

Typically, you only need to remove the camshafts if you are removing the cylinder head. This article is written with the later focus of removing the cylinder head but it can be used if you are installing performance camshafts or replacing the spark plug seals, which can leak over time.

Removing the camshafts requires you to do quite a bit of disassembly beforehand. Begin by Jacking up the front of the car and securing it on jackstands. You'll also need to remove the front left (looking at the engine compartment) wheel liner. See our articles on Jacking up Your C30 and Front Wheel Liner Removal for more information.

You'll also need to do the following items. See our C30 technical article library for more information on each step. It is a big job, but possible if you take the time and read through each step.

Remove the engine belts, harmonic balancer and timing belt

Remove the VVT control solenoids and VVT units

Remove the ignition coils and spark plugs along with the wiring harness

Unplug the electrical connector to the turbo control valve

Remove the air filter housing, air intake pipe and MAF sensor

Drain the cooling system

Remove the upper and lower intake plenums along with the fuel rail

Remove the starter motor

Loosen and remove the 8mm bolt (green arrow) securing the ground strap to the camshaft cover and set the ground strap aside.
Figure 1

Loosen and remove the 8mm bolt (green arrow) securing the ground strap to the camshaft cover and set the ground strap aside.

Loosen and remove the two 8mm bolts (green arrows) holding the oil filler cap on the camshaft cover.
Figure 2

Loosen and remove the two 8mm bolts (green arrows) holding the oil filler cap on the camshaft cover. Pull the oil filler out of the cover.

Shown here are the cover retaining tools that are needed when removing and installing the camshaft cover.
Figure 3

Shown here are the cover retaining tools that are needed when removing and installing the camshaft cover. The valve springs put constant tension on the camshafts, which in turn prevents you from relieving the tension on the cam cover equally at all sides. These tools secure the cover while you remove all of the retaining bolts. Once the bolts are removed, you carefully release the tension by unscrewing the tool. It sounds complicated, but makes perfect sense once the tool is installed.

Loosen and remove the four 10mm bolts (green arrows) around the number two spark plug hole.
Figure 4

Loosen and remove the four 10mm bolts (green arrows) around the number two spark plug hole. You will not be able to access these bolts once the retaining tool is installed. Normally, you would install the tool on the number one cylinder, however, the oil filler casting boss prevents the tool from seating correctly. Keep in mind there are several different variations of the T5 engine. Placing it on cylinder number two will work equally well.

Now loosen and remove the four 10mm bolts (green arrows) around the number five spark plug hole.
Figure 5

Now loosen and remove the four 10mm bolts (green arrows) around the number five spark plug hole.

Now thread the retaining tools into the spark plug holes for cylinders two and five as shown here.
Figure 6

Now thread the retaining tools into the spark plug holes for cylinders two and five as shown here. Spin the handles of each tool until the flat bar at the bottom is held tightly to the cam cover. You can see the oil filler boss (green arrow) that prevents you from installing it on cylinder number one.

Now remove all the 10mm bolts (green arrows) on the left side of the cam cover.
Figure 7

Now remove all the 10mm bolts (green arrows) on the left side of the cam cover.

Move to the right side of the cam cover and remove all of the 10mm bolts (green arrows) shown here.
Figure 8

Move to the right side of the cam cover and remove all of the 10mm bolts (green arrows) shown here.

Note the casting boss shown here (green arrow).
Figure 9

Note the casting boss shown here (green arrow). There are four of these bosses around the cam cover. The idea behind this is to provide a place to pry the cam cover up and off the cylinder head. Volvo sells a special tool for this. However, you can do the same with a set of battery terminal spreaders.

Carefully pry the cam cover upwards while loosening the handles on each retaining tool (green arrows).
Figure 10

Carefully pry the cam cover upwards while loosening the handles on each retaining tool (green arrows). You'll want to make sure that the cover is removed evenly on all sides as shown here.

Once free, lift the cam cover and the camshafts off the cylinder head as a unit.
Figure 11

Once free, lift the cam cover and the camshafts off the cylinder head as a unit. The tab on the cam lock tool (yellow arrow) will hold the camshafts in place at the right side. You'll need to hold the left sides of the cams (green arrows) in place. Move the cam cover to your workbench and carefully remove the camshafts.

When re-installing the cam cover, clean the mating surfaces (green arrows) with some brake cleaner and a Scotch-brite pad.
Figure 12

When re-installing the cam cover, clean the mating surfaces (green arrows) with some brake cleaner and a Scotch-brite pad. This removes all the old sealant from the cam cover. It doesn't have to be spotlessly clean, but enough so that you can apply a new layer of anaerobic sealant. You'll want to apply the sealant only to the mating surfaces. Make sure no sealant gets on the bearing surfaces (yellow arrow) for the cams. Volvo recommends using a paint roller to apply the sealant to the cam cover.

Be sure to remove the spark plug seals on the cylinder head before placing the cam cover back on.
Figure 13

Be sure to remove the spark plug seals on the cylinder head before placing the cam cover back on. These will come out with a small pick as shown here.

Fit the spark plug seals (green arrows) and the VVT solenoid seals (yellow arrows) to the cylinder head.
Figure 14

Fit the spark plug seals (green arrows) and the VVT solenoid seals (yellow arrows) to the cylinder head. You may need to use a little sealant to hold them in place.

At this point, you're ready to re-install the camshafts.
Figure 15

At this point, you're ready to re-install the camshafts. Put a light film of oil onto each cam bearing surface before placing the camshafts back on the head. Place the cams back on the head with the cam lock still installed. This will keep the cam timing correct. Don't worry if they don't sit flush. Place the cam cover over the camshafts and re-install the retaining tools. Turn the handle of each tool until the cam cover is fully seated back down on the cylinder head. Once the cover is in place, re-install all of the 10mm retaining bolts. That's it. You're done. Good job.

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