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Coil Pack and Spark Plug Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Coil Pack and Spark Plug Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$50 to $350

Talent:

****

Tools:

T27 Torx driver, 10mm socket, Flat head screwdriver, 5/8" spark

Applicable Models:

Volvo C30 T5 (2008-13)
Volvo C30 T5 R-Design (2008-13)

Parts Required:

Coil Packs,Spark Plugs

Hot Tip:

Always change the plugs with the engine cool

Performance Gain:

Smoother running engine, better MPG

Complementary Modification:

Change engine oil

One basic tune-up procedure for just about any car on the road is the replacement of your spark plugs and coil packs (if needed). I recommend inspecting your spark plugs every 60,000 miles, or about once a year. In reality, you can probably go longer than that, however, you never really quite know how long the plugs are going to last, or you may forget to replace them if you don't setup a yearly schedule. In practice though, the plugs in the C30 last a very long time. The coil packs are usually more of a problem. If you notice a slight roughness when the car accelerates sometimes along with a check engine light, you may want to investigate further.

On the C30, there are five coil packs that sit on top of each spark plug. The coil packs can fail with no warning and cause the check engine light to illuminate. If it does, there is an easy way to determine which coil pack has a fault. By using a code reader or a diagnostic computer package, you can view if any diagnostic trouble codes are stored in the car's memory. Additionally, most auto parts stores will typically be able to run your car's codes for free.

It's a good idea to let the engine cool for a bit before removing the plugs. If you try to remove or install spark plugs in a hot engine, you may encounter problems with the spark plugs gumming up or damaging the relatively delicate threads in the aluminum cylinder head. Make sure that the car is cold, or at the bare minimum, only slightly warm to the touch.

You'll need to remove the air intake tube and also the cylinder head covers to access the coil packs and plugs. See the directions below for more information. Each coil pack cover is held in place with a 10mm bolt. Once removed, you can carefully use a screwdriver to pry the coil pack up and out of the cylinder head. Once free, press the locking tab on the electrical connector to release it from the coil pack. All of the coils are the same, so it doesn't matter which cylinder it came off of - unless you are specifically trying to troubleshoot a bad coil fault code that was displayed by the main computer. You can even use the main computer to definitively isolate a bad coil pack by swapping it with another coil pack. If the fault code now presents itself on the cylinder you moved the suspected coil pack to, you know it is bad.

To remove the spark plugs, you'll need to use a 5/8" spark plug socket. It is wise to check the condition of each plug before installing the new ones. The color of the plug is a good indicator of how the engine is running. Ideally, you want to see a slightly tan looking plug. This typically means that the engine is running well.

Install your new plugs using a torque wrench to measure the amount of torque applied to the plug. This is very important, as it is easy to over or under-tighten spark plugs. Make sure that the plug is firmly seated in your spark plug socket as it is very easy to insert the plug into the head and have it cross-thread. This means that the threads of the spark plug don't mesh properly with the ones in the head, instead choosing to "cut their own path." This damages the threads on the head, and in extreme cases, may destroy the threads in the cylinder head entirely. Trust me - you do not want this to happen. Proceed carefully and cautiously here. Install each spark plug into the cylinder heads without using any anti-seize compound. Torque the spark plugs to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs).

With the new plugs installed and tightened to the correct torque, you can replace the coils and reattach the coil connectors. Now reattach the cylinder head covers and the air intake tube. Once finished, start the car and enjoy your smooth running engine.

Begin by opening the hood and loosening the two hose clamps (green arrows) holding the air intake tube in place.
Figure 1

Begin by opening the hood and loosening the two hose clamps (green arrows) holding the air intake tube in place.

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the intake tube to the rear of the cylinder head (green arrow).
Figure 2

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the intake tube to the rear of the cylinder head (green arrow).

There is an additional 10mm bolt holding the intake tube to the right side of the cylinder head.
Figure 3

There is an additional 10mm bolt holding the intake tube to the right side of the cylinder head. Only problem is that its located way down below. ThisPicture shows the socket wrench (green arrow) loosening the bolt.

ThisPicture shows the mounting bolt in clearer detail (green arrow).
Figure 4

ThisPicture shows the mounting bolt in clearer detail (green arrow). I've threaded the bolt back in to give you an idea of where it is located with the air intake tube lifted up enough to show it. You can also see the end of the bracket on the intake tube (yellow arrow). Use a telescoping magnet here to prevent the bolt from falling into the nether regions of your engine.

Remove the vacuum connection on the backside of the air intake tube by pressing the tabs on either side (green arrows) and pull the connection off.
Figure 5

Remove the vacuum connection on the backside of the air intake tube by pressing the tabs on either side (green arrows) and pull the connection off.

Take out the eight T27 Torx bolts (green arrows) holding the covers to the cylinder head.
Figure 6

Take out the eight T27 Torx bolts (green arrows) holding the covers to the cylinder head. Also remove the oil filler cap (yellow arrow) and stuff rags down the open intake tube boots (blue arrows) and oil filler to prevent anything from falling in.

Carefully remove the right hand side cover from the cylinder head.
Figure 7

Carefully remove the right hand side cover from the cylinder head.

The left side cover has a finger (green arrow) on both the front and rear side.
Figure 8

The left side cover has a finger (green arrow) on both the front and rear side. Carefully slide the cover to the left and off the cylinder head taking care to clear the oil filler tube.

Now you are able to access the five coil packs on the top of the cylinder head (green arrows).
Figure 9

Now you are able to access the five coil packs on the top of the cylinder head (green arrows).

For all five cylinders - Each coil pack is held in place with a single 10mm bolt (green arrow).
Figure 10

For all five cylinders - Each coil pack is held in place with a single 10mm bolt (green arrow). Remove the bolt and use a flat head screwdriver to carefully pry the coil pack up and out of the cylinder head.

For all five cylinders - When fitting the new coil packs, place a dab of electrical grease into the end of the connector (green arrow).
Figure 11

For all five cylinders - When fitting the new coil packs, place a dab of electrical grease into the end of the connector (green arrow). This helps protect the spark plug against corrosion.

For all five cylinders - Press the tab (green arrow) on the electrical connector going to the coil pack and pull it off.
Figure 12

For all five cylinders - Press the tab (green arrow) on the electrical connector going to the coil pack and pull it off.

For all five cylinders - Use a 5/8
Figure 13

For all five cylinders - Use a 5/8" spark plug socket to remove the spark plug down below. When fitting the new spark plug, carefully thread it in by hand and torque it to 30Nm (22 ft/lbs.).

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Comments and Suggestions:
T5smilemaker Comments: Is there anyway to use a voltmeter to test resistance on the coil packs?
September 10, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not that I am aware of. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Mon 3/27/2017 02:40:09 AM