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Pelican Technical Article:

Water Pump Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$50 to $100

Talent:

*****

Tools:

10mm &13mm socket, pry bar, drain pan, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Jetta MkIV 2.0L (1998-05)

Parts Required:

Water pump

Hot Tip:

Be sure to fill the system with coolant using a vacuum bleeder

Performance Gain:

Better engine cooling

Complementary Modification:

Replace timing belt

A failing water pump usually manifests itself in a few different ways. One is an engine that overheats at idle, but cools normally at higher RPMs. Another failure mode is seeing some coolant weeping from the pump housing itself. This is usually indicative of a failing front seal on the pump. Other times, the bearing in the water pump will be noisy, indicating a pending failure. If you notice any of these with your vehicle, don't waste time. Replace the pump as soon as possible. You risk blowing the head gasket on the car if the car is left to overheat.

On average, water pumps usually last around 80 to 100K miles. The life of the pump is typically extended with regular coolant flushes. The coolant itself has an additive package that helps to prevent corrosion to the pump. This is another good reason to replace the coolant in your engine every two years.

Note that a variety of items must be removed in order to access the water pump. You'll need to drain the coolant from the engine, remove the timing belt and/or the alternator and also the serpentine belt. I found that removing the alternator made the job much easier. Additionally, you'll need to jack up the front of the car and remove the front wheels. See our articles on Jacking up your Mk4 Jetta, Serpentine Belt Replacement, Timing Belt Replacement, Coolant Flush and Replacement and Alternator Replacement for more information.

Shown here is the location of the water pump on the VW AVH 2.
Figure 1

Shown here is the location of the water pump on the VW AVH 2.0 engine. Accessing the pump requires removing the serpentine belt, the timing belt and draining the coolant. In this picture, you'll notice that I've left the right engine mount attached. This is done to support the engine while removing the pump. Loosen and remove the two 10mm bolts (green arrows) from inside the engine bay and also the 10mm bolt (purple arrow) from inside the wheel well.

Loosen and remove the 13mm bolt (green arrow) and remove the cover piece over the camshaft position sensor.
Figure 2

Loosen and remove the 13mm bolt (green arrow) and remove the cover piece over the camshaft position sensor.

From inside the wheel well, you can see the small notch (green arrow) cast into the water pump housing (there one on top too).
Figure 3

From inside the wheel well, you can see the small notch (green arrow) cast into the water pump housing (there one on top too). You may need to pry the pump out of the block using a small pry bar, alternating between the top and bottom notches. This is why I suggest leaving the engine mount attached.

Shown here is the notch cast into the top of the water pump (green arrow).
Figure 4

Shown here is the notch cast into the top of the water pump (green arrow). Keep working back and forth until the pump can be removed from the block. Removing the alternator gives you a bit more space to work with.

Once the pump is free, remove it from the engine compartment.
Figure 5

Once the pump is free, remove it from the engine compartment. At this point, you can remove the engine mount to facilitate installing the timing belt.

Note the corrosion buildup on the engine block (green arrow).
Figure 6

Note the corrosion buildup on the engine block (green arrow). It's a good idea to clean the mounting surface with some sandpaper before installing the new pump.

When installing the new pump, be sure to lightly coat the O-ring (green arrow) with some silicone lubricant.
Figure 7

When installing the new pump, be sure to lightly coat the O-ring (green arrow) with some silicone lubricant. This will help prevent the O-ring from leaking and helps when you're pushing the pump into the block. At this point, you're ready to fit the timing belt over the new pump, put everything back together and vacuum bleed the cooling system.

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Page last updated: Fri 12/9/2016 03:06:28 AM