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Pelican Technical Article:

Oil Pan Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$40

Talent:

****

Tools:

5mm/8mm Allen head driver, 13mm/16mm/18mm sockets

Applicable Models:

VW Jetta (1998-05)

Parts Required:

Oil pan

Hot Tip:

Be sure to apply the sealant correctly

Performance Gain:

No more oil leaks

Complementary Modification:

Change engine oil

The oil pan on the Mk4 Jetta seems to be one of those items that doesn't last all that long. It's pretty common to find oil pans that have been struck by road debris, usually resulting in a crack or worse. It's also very common to have the drain bolt strip out upon installation, resulting in a persistent leak. While it is possible to repair damaged threads with a heli-coil or time-sert, it makes more sense to just replace the pan altogether.

Keep in mind that you will need to drain the oil beforehand (if it hasn't already leaked out). See our article on Engine Oil Change for more information.

Loosen and remove the 8mm Allen head bolt (green arrow) holding the heat shield to the front of the engine block.
Figure 1

Loosen and remove the 8mm Allen head bolt (green arrow) holding the heat shield to the front of the engine block.

Loosen and remove the 8mm Allen head bolt (green arrow) holding the heat shield to the rear of the engine block.
Figure 2

Loosen and remove the 8mm Allen head bolt (green arrow) holding the heat shield to the rear of the engine block. Pull the shield down. As you do this, the grommets (yellow arrows) will pull out of the engine block.

Shown here is the oil pan once the heat shield is removed.
Figure 3

Shown here is the oil pan once the heat shield is removed. Note that our car did not come with an oil level sensor (green arrow). If your car is equipped with one, you'll need to disconnect the electrical connector. Then transfer the sensor to the new oil pan.

Loosen and remove the two 16mm bolts (green arrows) holding the lower engine mount to the transmission.
Figure 4

Loosen and remove the two 16mm bolts (green arrows) holding the lower engine mount to the transmission. Also loosen and remove the two 13mm bolts (purple arrows) holding the lower engine mount to the chassis. Lower the engine mount out of the way.

Loosen and remove the three 18mm bolts (green arrows) holding the transmission to the oil pan.
Figure 5

Loosen and remove the three 18mm bolts (green arrows) holding the transmission to the oil pan.

Loosen and remove the bolts (green arrow) along the front edge of the oil pan.
Figure 6

Loosen and remove the bolts (green arrow) along the front edge of the oil pan. You'll note that the bolts are a combination of 10mm on the outside and 5mm on the inside. I recommend using a long 5mm ball end Allen driver to remove the bolts.

Move to the rear of the oil pan and remove all of the 10mm/5mm bolts (green arrows) along the back edge.
Figure 7

Move to the rear of the oil pan and remove all of the 10mm/5mm bolts (green arrows) along the back edge.

You'll now need to remove the four bolts that hold the end of the oil pan to the engine.
Figure 8

You'll now need to remove the four bolts that hold the end of the oil pan to the engine. This is difficult because you can barely see the bolts with the transmission and flywheel installed. I've included this picture with these items removed for a bit more clarity. The access holes (blue arrows) allow you to use the long, ball end 5mm Allen driver to reach in and loosen the bolts (green arrows).

This picture shows the long Allen head tool inserted into the access hole.
Figure 9

This picture shows the long Allen head tool inserted into the access hole. You'll have to position it at an angle to reach the two bolts behind the flywheel.

Don't forget to remove the two bolts at the front of the oil pan as well (green arrows).
Figure 10

Don't forget to remove the two bolts at the front of the oil pan as well (green arrows). Note: the crankshaft pulley has been removed for purposes of clarity.

Use a pry bar in the four slots around the oil pan to gently pry it off the bottom of the engine block.
Figure 11

Use a pry bar in the four slots around the oil pan to gently pry it off the bottom of the engine block. If it doesn't come off easily, go back and check that you have removed all the bolts.

Once the oil pan is removed, pull off any remnants of the old sealant (green arrows).
Figure 12

Once the oil pan is removed, pull off any remnants of the old sealant (green arrows). It's a good idea to inspect around the oil pump pickup for any debris. Clean it as needed.

Use a razor blade and brake cleaner to clean off any remaining sealant left behind on the engine block (green arrow).
Figure 13

Use a razor blade and brake cleaner to clean off any remaining sealant left behind on the engine block (green arrow). You need to have all of it off for the new sealant to adhere.

You'll need to use a heat-resistant RTV silicone adhesive to seal the new oil pan to the engine block.
Figure 14

You'll need to use a heat-resistant RTV silicone adhesive to seal the new oil pan to the engine block. Be sure to apply a bead 2-3mm wide round the bolt holes as shown here (green arrow).

Once the sealant bead has been applied, press the oil pan back in place and tighten each of the 10mm/5mm bolts to 15Nm (11 ft.
Figure 15

Once the sealant bead has been applied, press the oil pan back in place and tighten each of the 10mm/5mm bolts to 15Nm (11 ft./lbs.). Torque the larger 18mm bolts to 45Nm (33 ft./lbs.). Note how the sealant spreads out once the bolts are tightened (green arrow).

And here's the finished result with the new oil pan installed.
Figure 16

And here's the finished result with the new oil pan installed.


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