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Pelican Technical Article:

Brake Booster Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

8 hours8 hrs

Tab:

$200

Talent:

**

Tools:

13mm deep socket, 11mm flare nut wrenches, power bleeder

Applicable Models:

VW GTI (2006-09)

Parts Required:

Brake booster

Hot Tip:

Use paper towels and plastic bags to contain any fluid leaks

Performance Gain:

Better braking

Complementary Modification:

Replace master cylinder

Like many modern manufacturers Volkswagen shares components and even platforms across its many model lines. This article is based on one of those shared components but the work may have been performed on a different model than your vehicle. While some fasteners and other hardware types and sizes may be different, all of the information you need to safely complete the project is included in this article. If you have any questions, comments or feedback please contact us using the comment section below or join us on one of the world's best automotive forums for additional assistance

Without a doubt, your brakes are the most important systems on the car.

Replacing the brake booster on the GTI MkV is not difficult, it is just a tight fit, but it should take no more than eight hours including bleeding the brakes. The first step is to disconnect and remove the battery and tray. Remove the air box or after market air induction system. You will also need to remove the brake pedal switch and master cylinder. Please see our articles on how to perform these tasks. It is possible to remove the brake booster with the master cylinder attached but you will need to separate them to replace the booster so you might as well separate them in the car and give yourself more room to work.

When you are finished you will need to completely bleed the brakes. DO NOT drive the car without completely bleeding the brakes.

With all of the previous steps complete you will be left with the brake booster (red arrow) attached to the firewall.
Figure 1

With all of the previous steps complete you will be left with the brake booster (red arrow) attached to the firewall.

Older Style Manual Transmission - Move to the interior and remove the cover panel behind the pedals.
Figure 2

Older Style Manual Transmission - Move to the interior and remove the cover panel behind the pedals. This panel protects the steering shaft and can be removed by unscrewing the two plastic screws (red arrows) and removing the panel.

Older Style Manual Transmission - There is a bracket between the brake and clutch pedal.
Figure 3

Older Style Manual Transmission - There is a bracket between the brake and clutch pedal. Use a 13mm socket and remove the two nuts (red arrows).

Older Style Manual Transmission - Remove the bracket (red arrow).
Figure 4

Older Style Manual Transmission - Remove the bracket (red arrow).

Automatic-DSG Transmission: This photo illustrates the pedals on a DSG transmission car.
Figure 5

Automatic-DSG Transmission: This photo illustrates the pedals on a DSG transmission car. You can see the four 13mm bolts (red arrows, three shown) securing the brake booster along with where the rod clips into the rear of the brake pedal (yellow arrow). This car has the brake switch located on the Master Cylinder.

The booster shaft is connected to the back of the brake pedal by several different means.
Figure 6

The booster shaft is connected to the back of the brake pedal by several different means. On our project car the shaft was held in place by two plastic clips (red arrows). Pushing the clips back allowed us to remove the shaft from the brake pedal. Note: It is a really tight environment to work in and you will need patience to remove it without damaging it.

There are four 13mm nuts holding the brake booster to the firewall and pedal box.
Figure 7

There are four 13mm nuts holding the brake booster to the firewall and pedal box. You will need a 13mm deep socket to remove the four nuts (red arrows, three shown).

With the four nuts removed you can wiggle and pull the brake booster out from the front (red arrow).
Figure 8

With the four nuts removed you can wiggle and pull the brake booster out from the front (red arrow). Installation is the reverse of removal. When you are finished you will need to completely bleed the brakes. DO NOT drive the car without completely bleeding the brakes.

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