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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing Your Turbo

Steve Vernon

Time:

8 hours8 hrs

Tab:

$30 to $1,800

Talent:

*****

Tools:

Complete metric socket and wrench set, Torx and Allen set, 6mm, 8mm, 12mm Triple square, screwdrivers, pliers

Applicable Models:

VW GTI (2006-09)

Parts Required:

New turbo, gasket set, hardware

Hot Tip:

Make sure to fill up the turbo with oil before attaching the

Performance Gain:

More power

Complementary Modification:

New plugs

There are many reasons for removing the turbo on your GTI Mark V, from replacing it to upgrading to a larger turbo to give the engine more power. The turbo and exhaust manifold are one cast piece on the MkV. It is not a quick or easy job, but can be done by a DIY mechanic if you take your time, have the right tools and follow the instructions. This job can take a while for a novice, so make sure you have the car in a secure and weather safe area before you start.

I can not stress this enough: get a digital camera and take lots of pictures before and during this job; document wire and vacuum routing plus anything you feel unsure of. Doing this will be a huge help to you for when it comes time to put everything back together.

Note: I have removed the valve cover to get better pictures. You DO NOT have to remove the valve cover to perform this work.

Begin by safely jacking up and supporting your vehicle. Please see our article on safely raising and supporting your vehicle for further assistance.

You will need to remove your engine cover or after market air induction system.
Figure 1

You will need to remove your engine cover or after market air induction system. Please see our article on engine cover or after market air induction system removal for additional assistance. Make sure to cover the down inlet on the turbo.

You will need to remove the charged air pipe.
Figure 2

You will need to remove the charged air pipe. The charged air pipe and hoses run from the induction system and divert air before it reaches the throttle body (red arrow). This charged air runs through a pipe that is secured by an 8mm bolt (blue arrow) and T30 Torx (green arrow) and enters the interior by a quick release fitting (yellow arrow). Please see our article on charged air pipe removal for further assistance.

Next you will need to remove the under body trays.
Figure 3

Next you will need to remove the under body trays. A great many of these cars have had the engine trays and front side shields removed over the years and not replaced. If you happen to have a car that still has all the under trays and original hardware here is what you need to do. There are four T25 Torx screws (red arrows) on each side holding the tray on, remove them and slide the tray back out of the friction clips (yellow arrows) on the front air dam. Please see our article on under body tray removal for further assistance.

Remove the rubber charged air hose that connects the down pipe to the inter cooler.
Figure 4

Remove the rubber charged air hose that connects the down pipe to the inter cooler. Each connection has a quick-release-clip (red arrow) that pulls out and then pull the hose straight back and off.

You will need to drain the coolant from the vehicle (red arrow).
Figure 5

You will need to drain the coolant from the vehicle (red arrow). Please see our article on coolant flush for additional assistance.

Remove the two T30 Torx screws (yellow arrow) holding the down pipe to the lower part of the engine.
Figure 6

Remove the two T30 Torx screws (yellow arrow) holding the down pipe to the lower part of the engine. The red arrow shows the quick release clip that you will need to use to remove the charged air hose.

Pull the chick release clip on the turbo to down pipe connection (red arrow).
Figure 7

Pull the chick release clip on the turbo to down pipe connection (red arrow).

Wiggle and pull the down pipe until it separates from the turbo (red arrow).
Figure 8

Wiggle and pull the down pipe until it separates from the turbo (red arrow).

Disconnect the wiring harness from the cut off valve and bypass regulator (red arrows) and disconnect the plastic tab holding the harness to the turbo (yellow arrow).
Figure 9

Disconnect the wiring harness from the cut off valve and bypass regulator (red arrows) and disconnect the plastic tab holding the harness to the turbo (yellow arrow).

10: Disconnect the wiring from the coils (red arrow).
Figure 10

10: Disconnect the wiring from the coils (red arrow). Please see our article on spark plug and coil replacement for additional assistance. Pull the wiring harness that you have just disconnected from the turbo up and set the coil and turbo wiring harness aside.

Disconnect the pre cat 02 sensor just above the brake fluid reservoir (red arrow).
Figure 11

Disconnect the pre cat 02 sensor just above the brake fluid reservoir (red arrow).

Disconnect the two vent hoses from the valve cover on the right side of the motor just above the turbo (red and yellow arrows).
Figure 12

Disconnect the two vent hoses from the valve cover on the right side of the motor just above the turbo (red and yellow arrows). Un-screw the engine cover mounts (green arrow, one shown) and remove the heat shield.

Figure 13

Label and disconnect the hose from the coolant reservoir to the metal tube (red arrow)

Label and disconnect the coolant hose at the junction in the metal line (red arrow).
Figure 14

Label and disconnect the coolant hose at the junction in the metal line (red arrow).

Label and separate the coolant hose from the end of the metal line (red arrow).
Figure 15

Label and separate the coolant hose from the end of the metal line (red arrow).

Use a 6mm Triple Square and remove the screw holding the metal coolant line to the head (red arrow).
Figure 16

Use a 6mm Triple Square and remove the screw holding the metal coolant line to the head (red arrow). The yellow arrows show the labeled ends of the coolant line.

Disconnect the coolant hose from the top of the turbo where it joins the hard line by the tensioner (red arrow).
Figure 17

Disconnect the coolant hose from the top of the turbo where it joins the hard line by the tensioner (red arrow).

Use an 8mm triple square and remove the two screws holding the heat shield (red arrows, screws hidden behind heat shield).
Figure 18

Use an 8mm triple square and remove the two screws holding the heat shield (red arrows, screws hidden behind heat shield).

Remove the two 18mm bolts holding the heat shield in place (red arrows).
Figure 19

Remove the two 18mm bolts holding the heat shield in place (red arrows). The bolts are on the back side of the head and hidden in this picture.

Remove the heat shield and attached coolant line from the engine (red arrow).
Figure 20

Remove the heat shield and attached coolant line from the engine (red arrow). You can see in this picture that all connections have been labeled.

Use a wrench or socket and remove the two 14mm bolts holding the axle shield in place (red arrows).
Figure 21

Use a wrench or socket and remove the two 14mm bolts holding the axle shield in place (red arrows). Remove the shield.

There are four 16mm nuts holding the exhaust bracket on the turbo to the cat.
Figure 22

There are four 16mm nuts holding the exhaust bracket on the turbo to the cat. It is a good idea to pre-soak these with a good penetrating oil before attempting to remove them. After letting the penetration oil work remove the two upper 16mm nuts

Next, remove the two lower 16mm nuts (red arrows).
Figure 23

Next, remove the two lower 16mm nuts (red arrows).

You are going to have to separate the turbo from the exhaust pipe and move the pipe to the side and back.
Figure 24

You are going to have to separate the turbo from the exhaust pipe and move the pipe to the side and back. To begin this remove the two 14mm bolts with a socket (red arrows).

Loosen the two 13mm nuts holding the exhaust clamp (red arrows).
Figure 25

Loosen the two 13mm nuts holding the exhaust clamp (red arrows). You do not need to remove these just loosen them.

Separate the cat and pipe (red arrow) from the turbo (yellow arrow).
Figure 26

Separate the cat and pipe (red arrow) from the turbo (yellow arrow). Slide the exhaust to the left side and back.

Use a 12mm triple square and remove the oil line from the top of the turbo (red arrow).
Figure 27

Use a 12mm triple square and remove the oil line from the top of the turbo (red arrow). Oil will spill out so be ready for it.

Working on the lower right side of the turbo remove the 5mm Allen bolt holding the coolant line bracket to the turbo (red arrow).
Figure 28

Working on the lower right side of the turbo remove the 5mm Allen bolt holding the coolant line bracket to the turbo (red arrow). Note: the cut off valve has been removed in this picture but you should not have to remove it to remove the bolt for the bracket.

Use a 12mm triple square and remove the coolant line from the rear of the turbo (red arrow).
Figure 29

Use a 12mm triple square and remove the coolant line from the rear of the turbo (red arrow). Note coolant will spill out so be prepared for it.

Remove the two 5mm Allen bolts from the oil return line on the bottom of the turbo (red arrows).
Figure 30

Remove the two 5mm Allen bolts from the oil return line on the bottom of the turbo (red arrows). Note oil will spill out from the line and turbo so be prepared for it.

Remove the 13mm bolt holding the turbo to the mounting bracket (red arrow).
Figure 31

Remove the 13mm bolt holding the turbo to the mounting bracket (red arrow).

Use a 13mm wrench and remove the bolt from the turbo bracket (red arrow).
Figure 32

Use a 13mm wrench and remove the bolt from the turbo bracket (red arrow). Do NOT try and remove the 14mm nut as it is welded to the bracket.

Here is the turbo bracket (red arrow) You can see how the bracket has the nuts welded on, this makes for ease of installation when working in tight situations.
Figure 33

Here is the turbo bracket (red arrow) You can see how the bracket has the nuts welded on, this makes for ease of installation when working in tight situations.

Remove the two 16mm bolts on the bracket (yellow arrow) and the 21mm bolt in the bushing (green arrow) and remove the dog bone (red arrow) from the vehicle.
Figure 34

Remove the two 16mm bolts on the bracket (yellow arrow) and the 21mm bolt in the bushing (green arrow) and remove the dog bone (red arrow) from the vehicle. Please see our article on replacing your dog bone for further assistance. Note: the bolts are stretch bolts and single use only; you MUST replace the bolts when reinstalling the dog bone.

Use a ratchet strap and attach one end to the sway bars (yellow arrow) and the other to the front of the motor (red arrow) and ratchet the motor back approximately 20mm.
Figure 35

Use a ratchet strap and attach one end to the sway bars (yellow arrow) and the other to the front of the motor (red arrow) and ratchet the motor back approximately 20mm.

The nuts holding the exhaust/ turbo to the head can get corroded; it is a good idea to spray them with some penetrating oil before you attempt to remove them.
Figure 36

The nuts holding the exhaust/ turbo to the head can get corroded; it is a good idea to spray them with some penetrating oil before you attempt to remove them. Remove the five 12mm nuts holding the exhaust and turbo to the head (red arrows). The bolt on the far right of the motor is actually a stud that holds the bracket for the turbo lines but needs to be removed.

You do NOT need to loosen the nuts holding the lower retaining strip.
Figure 37

You do NOT need to loosen the nuts holding the lower retaining strip. You can now pull the turbo up and out of the motor.

This photo illustrates the turbo out of the car (red arrow).
Figure 38

This photo illustrates the turbo out of the car (red arrow). Whether reinstalling the same turbo or installing a new turbo always fill the top oil line connection (yellow arrow) with oil before attaching the line and do NOT rev the engine for the first two minutes on start up. This will give the turbo time to circulate oil and build up oil pressure. Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace all seals, gaskets, self locking nuts and single use hardware. Replace any old, cracked or dry hoses you find and use appropriate sized hose connections.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Daniel Comments: To any future users you do not have to remove the doggone mount you can remove the upper portion of the firewall by removing your wiper blades and then removing 2 10mm nuts that will let you remove the turbo it provides plenty of space to pull the turbo up
December 4, 2016
Cade Comments: Hi guys, thanks for the article. Not much else on the net for Mk5

Everything makes perfect sense. Only thing I was wondering is the need to remove the dog bone and ratchet the engine back 20mm. Unfortunately I'm doing this job in my garage on the floor using stands, so if I could a avoid this step it would be helpful.
Thanks in advance
Cade
January 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you want to move the engine, yeah remove the dog bone. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Nick Comments: What's the easiest way to get the heat off from the turbo
January 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Follow the steps in the article you commented on. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Darren Comments: Few things:

1. The bolt holding the headshielf/coolant hardline to the cylinder head on my 2007 was NOT a M6 tripple square, Nor an M4 Tripple square I would assume M5, I didn't have one So i used a Modified T27 to remove the bolt

2.There was only One M8 tripple square on the rear of my heat sheild Only one provision for it as well.

This is the best write up I've found for this thank you SO MUCH!!
December 27, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
n0bs Comments: Great write-up. Was able to replace the turbo without too much trouble. Definitely not for those without mechanical experience though. It's also a good idea to have some extra coolant on hand since you won't be able to reclaim some of the coolant drained from the turbo.
November 2, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Vdubjunky Comments: I used your write up for a reference when I installed my new K04 Turbo.
It is very well written with excellent pictures to reference.
Thank you much, Pelican!
August 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mark Comments: Do you have any advice on removing the cooling line from the turbo that is mentioned in figure 17? All I need to replace is this line and cannot find a way to get to the triple square bolt that holds the banjo to the turbo under the exhaust manifold.
June 10, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What vehicle are you working on? I can check to see if I repair info for it to compare against.

You may have to remove the turbocharger to get the line off. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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