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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing Engine Mounts

Steve Vernon

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$70 to $200

Talent:

***

Tools:

18mm, 16mm, 13mm, 8mm socket, extensions, universal joint, T30, T25 Trox

Applicable Models:

VW GTI (2006-09)

Parts Required:

New transmission mounts and bolts

Hot Tip:

Label and move some of the hoses to give you room

Performance Gain:

More power to the road

Complementary Modification:

New Ribbed-belt

Note: The hardware mounting bolts for the engine mounts are stretch bolts and single use only; always replace them.

NEVER remove both mounts at the same time while supporting the engine with only a floor jack!

While it is possible to replace the right side engine mount without removing all the lines on the top of the engine I did so I could get pictures. I would recommend removing the lines to give you more room to work and a chance to see what you are doing. If you decide to go this route first begin by labeling all the fuel lines, coolant lines and EVAP lines that are in your way and then remove them. They are just a series of hoses clamps and push pull connectors for the fuel lines.

Right Side- If you do not have an after market air induction system you will need to remove the engine cover.
Figure 1

Right Side- If you do not have an after market air induction system you will need to remove the engine cover. Please see our article on engine cover removal for additional assistance.

Right Side- You will need to remove the charged air pipe.
Figure 2

Right Side- You will need to remove the charged air pipe. The charged air pipe and hoses run from the induction system and divert air before it reaches the throttle body (red arrow). This charged air runs through a pipe that is secured by an 8mm bolt (blue arrow) and T30 Torx (green arrow) and enters the interior by a quick release fitting (yellow arrow). Please see our article on charged air pipe removal for further assistance.

Right Side- Next you will need to remove the under body trays.
Figure 3

Right Side- Next you will need to remove the under body trays. A great many of these cars have had the engine trays and front side shields removed over the years and not replaced. If you happen to have a car that still has all the under trays and original hardware here is what you need to do. There are four T25 Torx screws (red arrows) on each side holding the tray on, remove them and slide the tray back out of the friction clips (yellow arrows) on the front air dam. Please see our article on under body tray removal for further assistance.

Right Side- You are going to have to move the overflow reservoir to get the mount out.
Figure 4

Right Side- You are going to have to move the overflow reservoir to get the mount out. If you take care you do not need to drain the coolant; separate the small line from the reservoir, unplug the electrical connection and remove the two T25 Torx screws and set the reservoir out of the way right side up so it will not spill.

Right Side- Use a 10mm wrench and remove the fill tube for the windshield reservoir (red arrow).
Figure 5

Right Side- Use a 10mm wrench and remove the fill tube for the windshield reservoir (red arrow).

Right Side- You are going to need to support and be able to lift the motor while performing this job.
Figure 6

Right Side- You are going to need to support and be able to lift the motor while performing this job. Place a piece of wood under the oil pan to help distribute the weight of the motor between the pan and the jack. Place your floor jack towards the right side of the engine and support the weight (red arrow).

Right Side- Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the bracket between the chassis and motor mount (red arrows).
Figure 7

Right Side- Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the bracket between the chassis and motor mount (red arrows).

Right Side- Remove the access plug and remove the from the right wheel well and remove the 18mm bolt holding the mount to the engine (red arrow).
Figure 8

Right Side- Remove the access plug and remove the from the right wheel well and remove the 18mm bolt holding the mount to the engine (red arrow).

Right Side- Use a universal joint and an 18mm socket and remove the lower mount to engine bolt (red arrow).
Figure 9

Right Side- Use a universal joint and an 18mm socket and remove the lower mount to engine bolt (red arrow). You can see in thisPicture the access hole in the fender well for the other bolt (yellow arrow).

Figure 10

Right Side- Remove the two 18mm bolts from the chassis to engine mount (red arrows)

Right Side- Remove the two 16mm bolts holding the mount to the chassis (red arrows).
Figure 11

Right Side- Remove the two 16mm bolts holding the mount to the chassis (red arrows).

Right Side- You can remove the chassis part of the engine mount (red arrow) from the vehicle.
Figure 12

Right Side- You can remove the chassis part of the engine mount (red arrow) from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of removal. Before you torque down the bolts make sure the engine mount is parallel to the mount bracket on both axes, and that there is a minimum of 10mm between the engine and the frame rail.

Left Side- Use a piece of wood to help spread the load and place a floor jack under the transmission (red arrow).
Figure 13

Left Side- Use a piece of wood to help spread the load and place a floor jack under the transmission (red arrow). Slightly lift the transmission until you are supporting the weight.

Left Side- You will need to remove the battery and tray to get access to the left side or transmission side mount.
Figure 14

Left Side- You will need to remove the battery and tray to get access to the left side or transmission side mount. Please see our article on battery service and removal for further assistance.

Left Side- With the battery tray removed and the weight of the transmission supported you can remove the three 18mm bolts (red arrows).
Figure 15

Left Side- With the battery tray removed and the weight of the transmission supported you can remove the three 18mm bolts (red arrows).

Left Side- Unclip the plastic wiring tray and move it out of the way.
Figure 16

Left Side- Unclip the plastic wiring tray and move it out of the way. This will give you access to the four 16mm bolts (red arrows, one hidden). Remove the four bolts.

Left Side- With the bolts removed you can remove the mount for the vehicle (red arrow).
Figure 17

Left Side- With the bolts removed you can remove the mount for the vehicle (red arrow).

Left Side- This photo illustrates the hard rubber in the mount (red arrow).
Figure 18

Left Side- This photo illustrates the hard rubber in the mount (red arrow). This is what will wear out, break down and tear over the life of the mount. Installation is the reverse of removal.

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