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Pelican Technical Article:

Oil Pressure Switch Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$10

Talent:

***

Tools:

24mm Deep socket

Applicable Models:

VW GTI (2006-09)

Parts Required:

Oil pressure switch

Hot Tip:

Watch your knuckles it is in a tight spot

Performance Gain:

Working oil pressure light

Complementary Modification:

Oil and filter change

If you need to replace your oil pressure switch you will need to have a little patience. The switch is not expensive or all that difficult to get out but it is in a really tight spot and you must remove the wiring harness connection before you can remove the switch. Give yourself plenty of time.

Begin by safely jacking up and supporting the vehicle. Please see our articles on jacking up and supporting your vehicle.

With the car safely off the ground you will need to remove the engine tray (red arrow) and right side lower wheel well panel (yellow arrow).
Figure 1

With the car safely off the ground you will need to remove the engine tray (red arrow) and right side lower wheel well panel (yellow arrow). A great many of these car have had the engine trays and front side panels removed over the years and not replaced. If you happen to have a car that still has all the under trays and original hardware please see our article on under tray removal

Here is aPicture of the motor with the front of the car removed.
Figure 2

Here is aPicture of the motor with the front of the car removed. Even with the front of the vehicle gone it is still hard to see the oil pressure switch. It is attached to the oil cooler housing or base and in behind all the hoses and wiring you see here (red arrow). You can not actually see the switch in thisPicture just everything in front of it.

This photo actually shows the oil pressure switch where it attaches to the oil cooler housing (red arrow).
Figure 3

This photo actually shows the oil pressure switch where it attaches to the oil cooler housing (red arrow). This photo was taken with the intake manifold off. Note; thesePictures where taken from above so you can see what you will be doing but you will be working from below.

Here is aPicture from above of the switch (red arrow) and the electrical connection (yellow arrow).
Figure 4

Here is aPicture from above of the switch (red arrow) and the electrical connection (yellow arrow).

Disconnect the wiring connection (red arrow) from the sensor (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

Disconnect the wiring connection (red arrow) from the sensor (yellow arrow). This will probably be the most difficult part of the job as the connection is at a difficult angle to get at and the plastic may be dry and brittle. It is a standard squeeze the tab on the back of the connection and slide off. Move whatever knock or crank sensor connections you need out of the way to give you more room.

With the connection off you can get a 24mm deep socket on it and remove the sensor (red arrow).
Figure 6

With the connection off you can get a 24mm deep socket on it and remove the sensor (red arrow). You will not have lots of room to turn the wrench so once it is loose try removing it the rest of the way by hand. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Here is aPicture of the switch out of the car.
Figure 7

Here is aPicture of the switch out of the car. Note the washer that can not be replaced separately but should be replaced every time the switch is removed. This means that even if you want to reuse the sensor for some reason you really should replace it to make sure you get a good seal.

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Comments and Suggestions:
blessing Comments: thanks wolfsburg tech,your way really works fast without removing the intake,am not a machanic but did it and it was easy.
August 9, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and confirmation. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Atownmack Comments: Is this write up for 2.0 tsi or 2.0 tfsi engines?
July 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: FSI - Nick at Pelican Parts
wolfsburg tech Comments: You guys are working way too hard at this. Remove engine cover, loosen wiring harness holders near starter, pull wiring harness upward 2 inches for access, connect battery charger to fuse box, remove battery and box, disconnect wire connector from oil pressure switch, remove oil pressure switch, install switch, reassemble. A headlight, a 15/16" 3/8 drive socket and some LONG hose pliers are helpful. I did it first time in 0.78 hours.
January 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mike Soto Comments: What do you mean put it in service mode? i want to repalce it but without removing the intake. thanks.
July 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Placing the front end into service mode to allow access to the engine. I would grab a repair manual. It will list the special tools and each step of the procedure. Give our parts specialists a call: 1-888-280-7799, They will help you find what you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Sean Comments: I need to replace this but I'm having a lot of trouble actually finding it. I've looked from top and bottom but I just can't find it! Do I need to remove the front end like you did? I have the part ready to go.
June 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's difficult to get to without removing the front end. To make life easier, I would at the least, put it in service mode. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Fri 12/9/2016 02:36:44 AM