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Pelican Technical Article:

High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$350

Talent:

**

Tools:

T30 Torx, 13mm wrench, 19mm twelve point socket and driver

Applicable Models:

VW GTI (2006-09)

Parts Required:

High pressure fuel pump

Hot Tip:

Work on a cold engine

Performance Gain:

Car runs like normal again

Complementary Modification:

Replace fuel injectors

The Volkswagen GTI MkV has two separate fuel pumps; one in the tank and a high pressure pump mounted on the cylinder head and driven by the camshaft. The high pressure pump generates pressure of 120 bar or 1740 psi. If this pump fails your car will run very rough or not at all.

Your going to be working on the fuel system so be prepared: Work in a well ventilated area. Keep a fire extinguisher near you at all times and know how to use it correctly. No sparks or open flame around and if you smoke now would be a really good time to quit: at least for the two hours it might take you to perform this job.

Just as with the fuel filter, injectors, or any other component of the fuel system, it's best to relieve the fuel system of any pressure before you go opening it up. The engine should be cold while doing this so open the gas cap while the motor is cooling down and help relieve the vacuum in the system. Also, be sure to use some protective gloves and goggles whenever you're working with fuel.

If you do not have an after market air induction system you will need to remove the engine cover.
Figure 1

If you do not have an after market air induction system you will need to remove the engine cover. Please see our article on engine cover removal for additional assistance.

You are going to want to run the fuel out of the system.
Figure 2

You are going to want to run the fuel out of the system. Begin by opening the access panel on the left side of the dash by using a trim removal tool and gently prying the panel out from the dash (red arrow).

Use the fuse removal tool on the back of the panel and remove the fuse for the fuel pump (red arrow).
Figure 3

Use the fuse removal tool on the back of the panel and remove the fuse for the fuel pump (red arrow). Make sure to check with your owners manual to locate the proper fuse. With the fuse removed try to start the engine; if it does start it will die quickly from fuel starvation. Usually a couple turns of the key will do it.

There is a Schrader valve located on the pump housing (red arrow).
Figure 4

There is a Schrader valve located on the pump housing (red arrow). You can unscrew the cap and use the valve to relieve any residual pressure. Have a rag or cloth handy to catch whatever remaining fuel that will come out.

The plastic hose (yellow arrow) that is part of the emission system runs directly over the sensor (red arrow).
Figure 5

The plastic hose (yellow arrow) that is part of the emission system runs directly over the sensor (red arrow). These hose get very brittle so it is better to carefully remove it that risk breaking it trying to work around it.

Gently squeeze in the tabs (red arrows) on the ends of the hose.
Figure 6

Gently squeeze in the tabs (red arrows) on the ends of the hose.

Squeeze and wiggle the hose off.
Figure 7

Squeeze and wiggle the hose off. You can see the ridge area you use to squeeze the hose (red arrow).

With the hose removed unclip the wiring harness (red arrow) from the sensor (yellow arrow) on the end of the fuel pump.
Figure 8

With the hose removed unclip the wiring harness (red arrow) from the sensor (yellow arrow) on the end of the fuel pump.

Separate the wiring connection from the top of the pump (red arrow).
Figure 9

Separate the wiring connection from the top of the pump (red arrow).

The Schrader valve (red arrow) blocks the lower T30 bolt on the pump (yellow arrow).
Figure 10

The Schrader valve (red arrow) blocks the lower T30 bolt on the pump (yellow arrow).

Use a 13mm wrench and remove the Schrader valve from the pump body (red arrow).
Figure 11

Use a 13mm wrench and remove the Schrader valve from the pump body (red arrow).

Before you remove or install the pump you need to make sure the engine is at TDC1, or Top Dead Center for the number 1 cylinder.
Figure 12

Before you remove or install the pump you need to make sure the engine is at TDC1, or Top Dead Center for the number 1 cylinder. To do this you must remove the timing belt guard to see the belt and sprocket. Begin by removing the two T30 Torx screws on the top of the guard on the opposite end of the cylinder head from the pump (red arrows).

The guard is a tight fit so use care not to break it when removing it.
Figure 13

The guard is a tight fit so use care not to break it when removing it. With the guard off (red arrow) you can see the belt and sprocket (yellow arrow).

You need to turn the engine until the notch in the sprocket (red arrow) is even with the mark on the head (yellow arrow).
Figure 14

You need to turn the engine until the notch in the sprocket (red arrow) is even with the mark on the head (yellow arrow). Note; someone had marked our sprocket in two places with white but you will be able to see the notch in the sprocket (red arrow).

You can turn the engine over in a clockwise direction by using a 19mm twelve point socket on the nut on the crankshaft (red arrow).
Figure 15

You can turn the engine over in a clockwise direction by using a 19mm twelve point socket on the nut on the crankshaft (red arrow).

With everything lined up you can remove the three T30 Torx bolts holding the pump on (red arrows).
Figure 16

With everything lined up you can remove the three T30 Torx bolts holding the pump on (red arrows).

Remove the pump (red arrow) by pulling it straight back.
Figure 17

Remove the pump (red arrow) by pulling it straight back. There is an arm on the pump that sits in a "plunger" that runs off the camshaft, do not try and angle the pump out.

If you are reinstalling the old pump you need to replace the O-ring.
Figure 18

If you are reinstalling the old pump you need to replace the O-ring. Lubricate it with a little engine oil before reinstalling the pump (red arrow).

This photo illustrates the plunger in the shaft (red arrow).
Figure 19

This photo illustrates the plunger in the shaft (red arrow).

Remove the plunger (red arrow) and inspect it for damage.
Figure 20

Remove the plunger (red arrow) and inspect it for damage. It looks like a hydraulic lifter. It should be smooth and have no ridges or rough areas on it. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install all the lines including the fuel lines hand tight before you torque everything to spec.

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Page last updated: Wed 12/7/2016 02:37:26 AM