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Pelican Technical Article:

Electric Coolant Pump Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$250

Talent:

**

Tools:

Pliers, 4mm Allen, large bucket

Applicable Models:

VW GTI (2006-09)

Parts Required:

New pump

Hot Tip:

Get a really big bucket

Performance Gain:

Proper cooling

Complementary Modification:

Radiator Flush

The Volkswagen GTI MkV has an auxiliary electric coolant pump that assists in circulating coolant. If your pump is not functioning properly this article will show you how to replace it. The pump is located on the lower front section of the engine in front of the oil pan. When you disconnect the hoses coolant will drain out so be ready to catch and reuse it or dispose of it according to the regulations where you live. Not all of the coolant in the system will empty but remember to top up the coolant once you installed a new pump.

A couple of safety precautions/instructions you may want to observe before beginning:

Allow cooling system to cool down to a coolant temperature of less than 90°C. Open the cap of cooling system slowly; turn a conventional coolant cap as far as the first detent and turn a screwed coolant cap approx. 1/2 turn and release the pressure. Wear protective gloves, protective clothing and eye protection. NEVER pour coolant into beverage bottles, cups, etc... Someone might accidentally pick that cup up and start to drink.

If the coolant in the car is new there is no reason to replace it as long as you drain it into a clean container. Coolant is expensive and not too great for the environment, so if the coolant in your car is good, try and save it to reuse.

You will need to jack up and support the front of the vehicle to perform this job. Please see our article on safely jacking up and supporting your vehicle.

A great many of these cars have had the engine trays and front side shields removed over the years and not replaced.
Figure 1

A great many of these cars have had the engine trays and front side shields removed over the years and not replaced. If you happen to have a car that still has all the under trays and original hardware here is what you need to do. There are four T25 Torx screws (red arrows) on each side holding the tray on, remove them and slide the tray back out of the friction clips (yellow arrows) on the front air dam.

The pump (red arrow) is located on the lower front section of the engine in front of the oil pan.
Figure 2

The pump (red arrow) is located on the lower front section of the engine in front of the oil pan. The pump is surrounded by a rubber mount (yellow arrow) used to isolate it from heat and vibrations. The electrical connection (green arrow) is easier to separate after you remove the pump from its mounting bracket.

Begin by removing the clamp (red arrow) from the lower hose (red arrow).
Figure 3

Begin by removing the clamp (red arrow) from the lower hose (red arrow).

Coolant will escape from both the pump (yellow arrow) and hose (red arrow) once you separate them so be prepared.
Figure 4

Coolant will escape from both the pump (yellow arrow) and hose (red arrow) once you separate them so be prepared.

Remove the upper hose from the pump (red arrow).
Figure 5

Remove the upper hose from the pump (red arrow).

Use a 4mm Allen and remove the bolt holding the pump to the mount (red arrow).
Figure 6

Use a 4mm Allen and remove the bolt holding the pump to the mount (red arrow).

Remove the pump from its mount.
Figure 7

Remove the pump from its mount. The rubber isolator sits in the bottom of the mounting flange and then single 4mm Allen bolt holds it in place (yellow arrows). With the pump free it is easier to remove the electrical connection (red arrow). Installation is the reverse of removal and do not forget to top up the coolant level.

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Page last updated: Wed 12/7/2016 02:37:14 AM