Volkswagen Parts Catalog Volkswagen Accessories Catalog Volkswagen Tech Information Volkswagen Tech Forums
 
Follow Pelican Parts on Facebook Follow Pelican Parts on Twitter Follow Pelican Parts on Instagram Follow Pelican Parts on YouTube Follow Pelican Parts on Pinterest Follow Pelican Parts on Tumblr
  Search our site:    
View Recent Cars  |   Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    
 >  >
Radiator and Coolant Hose Replacement
 
Bookmark and Share

Pelican Technical Article:

Radiator and Coolant Hose Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$15 to $250

Talent:

**

Tools:

Pliers, flathead screwdriver, large bucket

Applicable Models:

VW GTI (2006-09)

Parts Required:

New hoses

Hot Tip:

Get a really big bucket

Performance Gain:

Proper cooling

Complementary Modification:

Radiator Flush

The cooling system on your vehicle is one of the most important and yet neglected parts of the car. Nothing can leave you stranded faster than not replacing a rubber hose before it goes bad. I recommend inspecting your hoses and couplings every two years or so. As they age, they have a tendency to get hard and brittle. When you gently squeeze a hose, it should be relatively soft and easy to indent with your hand. It shouldn't feel like it is brittle or crunching when you squeeze it. It should spring back to its original shape pretty quickly after being compressed. If it feels very hard, then it might be time to replace it. If there is a bulge in the hose, or any type of crack in the surface of the hose, then you should replace it as well. Also check for leaks around where the hoses create their connections--that is a sign that the hose should be replaced.

A couple of safety precautions/instructions you may want to observe before beginning:

Allow cooling system to cool down to a coolant temperature of less than 90°C. Open the cap of cooling system slowly; turn a conventional coolant cap as far as the first detent and turn a screwed coolant cap approx. 1/2 turn and release the pressure. Wear protective gloves, protective clothing and eye protection. NEVER pour coolant into beverage bottles, cups, etc... Someone might accidentally pick that cup up and start to drink.

If the coolant in the car is new there is no reason to replace it as long as you drain it into a clean container. Coolant is expensive and not too great for the environment, so if the coolant in your car is good, try and save it to reuse.

Begin by safely jacking up and supporting your car.
Figure 1

Begin by safely jacking up and supporting your car. With the car safely off the ground you will need to remove the engine tray (red arrow) and the left and right side lower wheel well panel (yellow arrows). A great many of these car have had the engine trays and front side panels removed over the years and not replaced. If you happen to have a car that still has all the under trays and original hardware please see our article on under tray removal

There is no drain plug on the radiator in the GTI MkV.
Figure 2

There is no drain plug on the radiator in the GTI MkV. You will need to remove the lower radiator on the right hand side to drain the system. Place a large bucket or catch tray under the right side of the radiator. This hose is a quick release connection and you should be able to insert a screwdriver and unclip the connection (red arrow) and separate the hose from the radiator.

Our quick release connections was stuck, so we had to remove the standard hose clamp (red arrow) and remove the hose that way.
Figure 3

Our quick release connections was stuck, so we had to remove the standard hose clamp (red arrow) and remove the hose that way.

With the hose disconnected the coolant will drain out of both the radiator (red arrow) and the hose.
Figure 4

With the hose disconnected the coolant will drain out of both the radiator (red arrow) and the hose. The Turbo hose is directly in the way of the draining coolant (yellow arrow) so I used the two quick disconnects and removed the hose. You might want to do this as it really helps avoid a mess.

Open the cap on the reservoir (red arrow) to break the vacuum seal and help the system drain.
Figure 5

Open the cap on the reservoir (red arrow) to break the vacuum seal and help the system drain.

The upper left radiator hose has both a quick disconnect fitting (red arrow) along with several regular hose clamps.
Figure 6

The upper left radiator hose has both a quick disconnect fitting (red arrow) along with several regular hose clamps. The upper hose goes from the radiator to the distribution connection and connects to the thermostat, reservoir and electric pump lines as well.

You can separate the hose from the radiator (yellow arrow) by the quick disconnect (red arrow).
Figure 7

You can separate the hose from the radiator (yellow arrow) by the quick disconnect (red arrow).

With the front of the vehicle removed you can see all the hoses that come off the upper radiator hose (purple arrow).
Figure 8

With the front of the vehicle removed you can see all the hoses that come off the upper radiator hose (purple arrow). The electric recirculation pump hose (yellow arrow) connects to both the radiator hose and pump by a standard hose clamp. The distribution connection (green arrow) connects with all hoses by a standard hose clamps. The upper thermostat line (red arrow) goes from rubber to a hard line and then to rubber again and uses standard hose clamps. The reservoir to distribution hose (blue arrow) connects with a standard hose clamp.

This photo illustrates where the coolant hose joins the upper thermostat and is secured with a standard hose clamp (red arrow).
Figure 9

This photo illustrates where the coolant hose joins the upper thermostat and is secured with a standard hose clamp (red arrow). You will need to remove the alternator to get access to this connection. Please see our article on alternator removal for further assistance. If you are replacing the whole line you will also need to remove the charged air pipe and a mounting bracket. Please see our article on thermostat replacement.

To remove the hard coolant line from the thermostat use a T30 Torx and remove the screw holding the pipe in the housing (red arrow).
Figure 10

To remove the hard coolant line from the thermostat use a T30 Torx and remove the screw holding the pipe in the housing (red arrow). You will need to remove the alternator to get access to this connection. Please see our article on alternator removal for further assistance. If you are replacing the whole line you will also need to remove the charged air pipe and a mounting bracket. Please see our article on thermostat replacement.

Use a screwdriver and gently pry the pipe out from the housing (red arrow).
Figure 11

Use a screwdriver and gently pry the pipe out from the housing (red arrow).

Disconnect the quick release coupling on the lower radiator hose (red arrow) and separate the hose from the thermostat housing.
Figure 12

Disconnect the quick release coupling on the lower radiator hose (red arrow) and separate the hose from the thermostat housing. Note; our coupling would not separate no matter what we tried so we had to remove the alternator and remove the thermostat along with the hose from the lower right radiator. There is a clamp on the lower hose you need to release. Installation of all hoses is the reverse of removal.

Bookmark and Share

  Search our site:    

View Cart & CheckOut | Project List | Order Status |  Help    

 

[Home] [Customer Service] [Shopping Cart] [Project/Wish List]
  [Privacy Statement]  [Contact Us] [About Us] [Shipping] [Careers]

Copyright © Pelican Parts Inc. -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page

Page last updated: Wed 12/7/2016 02:37:13 AM