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Power Steering Pump and Reservoir Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Power Steering Pump and Reservoir Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$125 to $225

Talent:

**

Tools:

17mm, 13mm, 10mm wrench, 5mm Allen, pliers

Applicable Models:

VW Golf GTI (2000)
VW Golf GTI 1.8T (2002-05)
VW Golf GTI 20th Anniversary (2003)
VW Golf GTI 337 (2002)
VW Golf GTI GLS (2001)

Parts Required:

New power steering pump, hoses

Hot Tip:

Suction out as much fluid as you can before you start

Performance Gain:

Better steering response

Complementary Modification:

New V-belt

When a power steering pump begins to fail, it will emit a groan-like sound when steering from side to side or you will notice increased steering effort. Of course the pump could also leak, but a noisy, weak pump is most common. If you lose function of your power steering or it takes a greatly increased effort to steer your vehicle, remove the drive belt and inspect the power steering pump shaft. If you can slide the pulley out of the power steering pump, the shaft is broken. You will have to replace the power steering pump.

The power steering fluid reservoirs are also known to crack and leak. If your reservoir is leaking a low fluid level can lead to a noisy pump. Check your reservoir for leaks first and replace if leaking.

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with replacing and bleeding the power steering pump and reservoir.

Raise and support the front of your vehicle safely. Please see our Pelican Parts Technical Article on Jacking Up Your GTI for more information. You will also need to remove your V-belt, please see our article on how to remove your V-belt.

The power steering reservoir (red arrow) is located in the front right side of the engine compartment between the coolant overflow reservoir and the windshield washer reservoir.
Figure 1

The power steering reservoir (red arrow) is located in the front right side of the engine compartment between the coolant overflow reservoir and the windshield washer reservoir. There are tow lines connected to the reservoir; the supply line, or to the pump line (yellow arrow) and the return line (green arrow). If you are having problems or noises from the power steering pump you should check the reservoirs fluid level by removing the fill cover (blue arrow) that has a dipstick built into the bottom of it. If the fluid level is low check for cracks or leaks in the reservoir.

If you are going to be replacing the pump or the reservoir you will need to first remove as much fluid from the reservoir as possible.
Figure 2

If you are going to be replacing the pump or the reservoir you will need to first remove as much fluid from the reservoir as possible. Use a clean turkey baster (red arrow) or suction pump and remove as much fluid as you can.

To remove the reservoir pull the plastic wiring harness straight up and off the bolt to the right of the reservoir, then use a 10mm wrench and remove the nut.
Figure 3

To remove the reservoir pull the plastic wiring harness straight up and off the bolt to the right of the reservoir, then use a 10mm wrench and remove the nut. Detach both the output and return line and lift the reservoir straight up and off the bolt. No matter how much fluid you get out of the reservoir before removing it there will be spillage when you disconnect the hose so be prepared for it. If you are just replacing the reservoir installation is the reverse of removal and you can skip to the fill and bleed section of the article.

After removing the V-belt you will need to use a 6mm Allen and remove the three bolts (red arrows) holding the pulley on.
Figure 4

After removing the V-belt you will need to use a 6mm Allen and remove the three bolts (red arrows) holding the pulley on. Some people like to loosen the pulley bolts before they remove the belt.

With the pulley removed you will need to remove the two 13mm bolts (red arrows) on the front of the pump.
Figure 5

With the pulley removed you will need to remove the two 13mm bolts (red arrows) on the front of the pump.

There is one 13mm bolt (red arrow) on the rear of the pump.
Figure 6

There is one 13mm bolt (red arrow) on the rear of the pump. You will need to remove the three 10mm nuts on the secondary air pump (yellow arrow) to move the pump and give you enough clearance to remove the power steering pump to bracket bolt. Please see our article on secondary air pump replacement if you need help with this procedure.

You can now remove the pump from its mounting bracket.
Figure 7

You can now remove the pump from its mounting bracket. Use pliers and remove the supply line (yellow arrow) hose. The pressure line out to the rack (red arrow) has the pressure switch on top of the banjo bolt. Use a 17mm wrench and remove these. Note; even though you have drained the fluid from the reservoir it sits higher in the vehicle than the pump and all the fluid in the lines will spill out when you remove them. Be prepared to catch this fluid and dispose of it accordingly.

You may need to push the bushing on the lower mount back a little to fit the new pump.
Figure 8

You may need to push the bushing on the lower mount back a little to fit the new pump. Installation of the new pump is the reverse of removal. Filling and Bleeding the System. Before starting engine, fill the power steering reservoir with clean fluid to the MAX level on dipstick. Start the engine and turn steering wheel fully left and right 3 times. Turn engine off and check the fluid level - if necessary, add fluid until it reaches MAX on dipstick. When full, fluid should be clear and foam free. Foam or bubbles is a sign of air in the system: which means you will have to bleed the system, so take your time!

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