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Auxiliary Air Pump and Hose Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Auxiliary Air Pump and Hose Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$375 to $600

Talent:

**

Tools:

10mm wrench

Applicable Models:

VW Golf GTI (2000)
VW Golf GTI 1.8T (2002-05)
VW Golf GTI 20th Anniversary (2003)
VW Golf GTI 337 (2002)
VW Golf GTI GLS (2001)

Parts Required:

New auxiliary air pump, hoses

Hot Tip:

Careful working with the hoses they get brittle

Performance Gain:

Wont leave you stranded at the side of the road

Complementary Modification:

New V-belt

The secondary or auxiliary air pump is part of the emission system and is used to inject fresh air behind the exhaust valves during the engine warm up. The filtered air is drawn in from the air box and pumped to the combi valve on the cylinder head. The air produces an oxygen rich environment that assists in after burning and helps the engine run cleaner.

If you are having trouble passing a smog test it may be the secondary or auxiliary air pump or system.

The air pump (red arrow) is located at the lower front right of the engine between the oil filter and power steering pump.
Figure 1

The air pump (red arrow) is located at the lower front right of the engine between the oil filter and power steering pump.

There are two hoses attached to the pump.
Figure 2

There are two hoses attached to the pump. The intake hose (yellow arrow) draws filtered air from the airbox. The outlet or pressure hose (red arrow) sends air to the check valve by the cylinder head. To test the pump remove the pressure hose (red arrow) on a warm engine and start the car and allow it to idle. After approximately 20 seconds the air pump should run and you should feel air coming from the outlet. Use caution when working with the hoses as they become extremely brittle with age and are very expensive.

If the pump does not run remove the electrical harness from the pump and check for voltage at the connection (red arrow).
Figure 3

If the pump does not run remove the electrical harness from the pump and check for voltage at the connection (red arrow). Start the motor and allow it to idle. You should get an electrical signal after about 20 seconds

If you are not getting power at the harness you want to check the fuse.
Figure 4

If you are not getting power at the harness you want to check the fuse. The fuse for the pump is indicated by the red arrow. Please see our article on battery maintenance on how to check and replace fuses.

If the fuse is good you will want to replace the relay.
Figure 5

If the fuse is good you will want to replace the relay. Access the relay housing at the rear left section of the engine bay. The air pump relay is marked with the number 100. Before you remove the relay you should disconnect the ground on the battery. Please see our article on battery removal and maintenance for assistance with this.

If the electrical components are all good and the pump still does not work then you probably need to replace the pump.
Figure 6

If the electrical components are all good and the pump still does not work then you probably need to replace the pump. The pump is held in place by three 10mm nuts (red arrows, two shown) on long rubber isolating bolts. Disconnect the two hoses, remove the three nuts and slide the pump from its bracket.

This photo illustrates the pump mounting bracket (green arrow), the intake hose (red arrow), the pressure hose (yellow arrow) and the electrical connection (blue arrow).
Figure 7

This photo illustrates the pump mounting bracket (green arrow), the intake hose (red arrow), the pressure hose (yellow arrow) and the electrical connection (blue arrow).

With the pump removed from the vehicle you can see the inlet opening (yellow arrow), pressure opening (red arrow) and the rubber isolating bolts (green arrows).
Figure 8

With the pump removed from the vehicle you can see the inlet opening (yellow arrow), pressure opening (red arrow) and the rubber isolating bolts (green arrows).

This photo illustrates the intake hose (red arrow) and the pressure hose (yellow arrow).
Figure 9

This photo illustrates the intake hose (red arrow) and the pressure hose (yellow arrow). These hoses get very brittle over time and are expensive to replace so use caution when working with them.

This photo illustrates where the pressure hose connects to the combi valve (red arrow).
Figure 10

This photo illustrates where the pressure hose connects to the combi valve (red arrow). Note several components have been removed to give a better view but do not need to be removed to replace the hose.

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Comments and Suggestions:
ed Comments: hi there,I got no 12 volts to the secondary pump.2003 vw golf.new relay,no help.I can jumper #1and #2 and hear the pump.what powers the relay?I suspect whatever goes to #3 and #4?do you know?thanks so much if you could answer....eddie
September 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check Fuse 1 50 amp at the fuse bracket near the battery. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
joe Comments: Oh its for 2000 jetta gls
May 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
joe Comments: Need the plug harness green corrosion on contacts looks like 2 feet in length for the 2 wires
May 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We can get it for you.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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