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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing Your Turbo

Steve Vernon

Time:

8 hours8 hrs

Tab:

$25 to $1,200

Talent:

*****

Tools:

All of them

Applicable Models:

VW Golf GTI (2000)
VW Golf GTI 1.8T (2002-05)
VW Golf GTI 20th Anniversary (2003)
VW Golf GTI 337 (2002)
VW Golf GTI GLS (2001)

Parts Required:

New turbo, gasket set, hardware

Hot Tip:

Have a friend help

Performance Gain:

More power

Complementary Modification:

New plugs

There are many reasons for removing the turbo on your GTI Mark 4, from replacing it to upgrading to a larger turbo to give the engine more power. It is not a quick or easy job, but can be done by a DIY mechanic if you take your time, have the right tools and follow the instructions. This job can take a while for a novice, so make sure you have the car in a secure and weather safe area before you start.

I can not stress this enough: get a digital camera and take lots of pictures before and during this job, document wire and vacuum routing plus anything you feel unsure of, this can only help when it comes time to put everything back together.

There are several steps that need to be preformed on other parts of the car before you begin removing the turbo. We have covered all of these in separate articles so I am not going to include them here, as this will be a long enough project as it is. Please refer to all the prep work articles contained here on Pelican Parts.

The articles you will need to reference are:

Safely raise and support your vehicle.

Remove the engine covers and disconnect the battery.

Drain the coolant system.

Drain the oil

Note: I have removed the valve cover and eventually the head to get better pictures. You DO NOT have to remove these to perform this work.

With all of this done you are going to start removing things from the motor.

You will need to get access to the oil line for the turbo that connects to the engine at the front. At the front of the engine remove the two 10mm nuts holding the vacuum lines and the two 5mm Allen bolts holding the self. With the bolts removed lift the shelf up and off the dipstick tube. Slide the shelf out of the way. Remove the 6mm Allen attaching the intake manifold to the alternator bracket.

Next remove the vacuum lines from the top of the intake manifold, and the two from underneath. This will give you more room to get your hands and tools in to remove the oil line. Disconnect the oil line from the front of the engine.

Remove all the emission and vacuum lines from the top rear of the engine and disconnect the electrical harness. Remove the lines from the front and the air intake tube from the air box and intake tube.

Remove the whole assembly from the car as one piece.

From underneath the car remove the heat insulation from the turbo charger outlet pipe. It just unsnaps. Then using a 10mm wrench remove the lower pipe mounting bracket.

While under the car remove the 15mm bolts and protective shield over the axle.

Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the turbo oil return line to the oil pan. Note: always replace the gasket.

Move back to the top of the engine and remove the upper turbo heat insulation from the outlet pipe.

Remove the two 10mm bolts on the mounting bracket and the hose clamp from the rubber pipe.

Remove the turbo outlet pipe from the car.

Use a 13mm wrench and remove the two bolts holding the heat shield in place and remove the heat shield along with the upper support bracket for the turbo pipe.

Working at the rear of the engine remove the three 17mm bolts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold.

Note: I removed the head to get a better angle for the camera but you DO NOT have to remove the head to perform this work.

Disconnect the upper coolant line from the turbo along with where the line mounts to the engine.

Remove the lower coolant line from the engine block

Remove the four self locking nuts on the turbo to exhaust flange. It is a good idea to soak these with a little penetrating oil before you remove them, also, they are single use nuts and must be replaced when reinstalling.

There is a single 13mm bolt that holds the turbo to a mount on the engine block. You can access this from either above or below. The bolt threads into a fixed nut on the left side of the mount. Remove the bolt and the turbo is free to be wiggled out of the engine. You are going to remove the turbo with the lower oil and coolant lines and two vacuum lines still attached to the turbo. Once you get the turbo out of its mount you can you can also remove the upper oil line and mount.

Always replace all the crush washers on the lines and be careful to remove the washers where they get pressed against the banjo bolts. The washers on the turbo are two different sizes , so pay attention to use the right size.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

When reinstalling the turbo make sure to fill the upper oil input before connecting the line. Also do not rev the engine until it has idles for a few moments to allow oil pressure to build up in the turbo.

You will need to get access to the oil line for the turbo that connects to the engine at the front.
Figure 1

You will need to get access to the oil line for the turbo that connects to the engine at the front. At the front of the engine remove the two 10mm nuts (red arrows) holding the vacuum lines and the two 5mm Allen bolts (yellow arrows) holding the self. With the bolts removed lift the shelf up and off the dipstick tube. Slide the shelf out of the way. Remove the 6mm Allen (green arrow) attaching the intake manifold to the alternator bracket.

Next remove the vacuum lines from the top of the intake manifold (red arrows).
Figure 2

Next remove the vacuum lines from the top of the intake manifold (red arrows).

Remove the two vacuum lines (red arrows) from underneath.
Figure 3

Remove the two vacuum lines (red arrows) from underneath. This will give you more room to get your hands and tools in to remove the oil line

Disconnect the oil line from the front of the engine.
Figure 4

Disconnect the oil line from the front of the engine. This photo illustrates the oil line that connects to the top of the turbo (red arrow) runs along the left side of the engine (green arrow) and connects at the front of the engine (yellow arrow).

Remove all the emission and vacuum lines (red arrows) from the top rear of the engine and disconnect the electrical harness (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

Remove all the emission and vacuum lines (red arrows) from the top rear of the engine and disconnect the electrical harness (yellow arrow).

Remove the lines from the front (red arrow) and the air intake tube from the air box and intake tube (yellow arrow).
Figure 6

Remove the lines from the front (red arrow) and the air intake tube from the air box and intake tube (yellow arrow).

Remove the whole assembly (red arrow) from the car as one piece.
Figure 7

Remove the whole assembly (red arrow) from the car as one piece.

From underneath the car remove the heat insulation from the turbo charger outlet pipe (red arrow).
Figure 8

From underneath the car remove the heat insulation from the turbo charger outlet pipe (red arrow). It just unsnaps. Then using a 10mm wrench remove the lower pipe mounting bracket (yellow arrows).

While under the car remove the 15mm bolts (red arrows) and protective shield over the axle.
Figure 9

While under the car remove the 15mm bolts (red arrows) and protective shield over the axle.

10: Remove the two 10mm bolts (red arrows) holding the turbo oil return line to the oil pan.
Figure 10

10: Remove the two 10mm bolts (red arrows) holding the turbo oil return line to the oil pan. Note: always replace the gasket.

Move back to the top of the engine and remove the upper turbo heat insulation (red arrow) from the outlet pipe.
Figure 11

Move back to the top of the engine and remove the upper turbo heat insulation (red arrow) from the outlet pipe.

Remove the two 10mm bolts (yellow arrows) on the mounting bracket and the hose clamp (green arrow) from the rubber pipe.
Figure 12

Remove the two 10mm bolts (yellow arrows) on the mounting bracket and the hose clamp (green arrow) from the rubber pipe.

Remove the turbo outlet pipe (red arrow) from the car.
Figure 13

Remove the turbo outlet pipe (red arrow) from the car.

Use a 13mm wrench and remove the two bolts (red arrows) holding the heat shield in place and remove the heat shield along with the upper support bracket for the turbo pipe.
Figure 14

Use a 13mm wrench and remove the two bolts (red arrows) holding the heat shield in place and remove the heat shield along with the upper support bracket for the turbo pipe.

Working at the rear of the engine remove the three 17mm bolts (yellow arrows) holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold.
Figure 15

Working at the rear of the engine remove the three 17mm bolts (yellow arrows) holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold.

Disconnect the upper coolant line from the turbo (red arrow) along with where the line mounts to the engine (yellow arrow).
Figure 16

Disconnect the upper coolant line from the turbo (red arrow) along with where the line mounts to the engine (yellow arrow).

Remove the lower coolant line from the engine block (red arrow).
Figure 17

Remove the lower coolant line from the engine block (red arrow).

Remove the four self locking nuts (yellow arrows, three shown) on the turbo to exhaust flange.
Figure 18

Remove the four self locking nuts (yellow arrows, three shown) on the turbo to exhaust flange. It is a good idea to soak these with a little penetrating oil before you remove them, also, they are single use nuts and must be replaced when reinstalling.

There is a single 13mm bolt (red arrow) that holds the turbo to a mount on the engine block.
Figure 19

There is a single 13mm bolt (red arrow) that holds the turbo to a mount on the engine block. You can access this from either above or below. The bolt threads into a fixed nut on the left side of the mount. Remove the bolt and the turbo is free to be wiggled out of the engine.

Figure 20

This photo illustrates the turbo mounting bracket (red arrow) with the turbo removed

You are going to remove it with the lower oil (red arrow) and coolant lines (yellow arrow) and two vacuum lines (green arrows) still attached to the turbo.
Figure 21

You are going to remove it with the lower oil (red arrow) and coolant lines (yellow arrow) and two vacuum lines (green arrows) still attached to the turbo. Once you get the turbo out of its mount you can you can also remove the upper oil line and mount.

Always replace all the crush washers (red arrow) on the lines and be careful to remove the washers where they get pressed against the banjo bolts (yellow arrow).
Figure 22

Always replace all the crush washers (red arrow) on the lines and be careful to remove the washers where they get pressed against the banjo bolts (yellow arrow). The washers on the turbo are two different sizes, so pay attention to use the right size.

When reinstalling the turbo make sure to fill the upper oil input (red arrow) before connecting the line.
Figure 23

When reinstalling the turbo make sure to fill the upper oil input (red arrow) before connecting the line. Also do not rev the engine until it has idles for a few moments to allow oil pressure to build up in the turbo.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Fletch Comments: How do I disconnect the air intake assembly at the bottom where it attaches to the turbo or is it a "manifold" connecting the assembly to the turbo? Weird looking sort crimped clamp system.
October 2, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It either has a nut that has to be unscrewed to loosen the clamp or a metal wire that has to be released. If you share a photo of the hose, I can offer more insight. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Fletch Comments: I see nothing about detaching the air intake assembly from what I think is the air intake "manifold" on or leading to the turbo. The bottom of the big air tube is seated into this metal "manifold" that has a strange kind of crimped looking clamp, I guess, sort of built into it. Sorry to be so vague. I've tried just pulling the assembly out, but it wont budge. I'm baffled because I see no mention of this in your instructions. I believe the turbo I'm replacing is not original equipment.
October 2, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It either has a nut that has to be unscrewed to loosen the clamp or a metal wire that has to be released. If you share a photo of the hose, I can offer more insight. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
adam Comments: Is the turbo removed from the top or bottom of car thanks
August 29, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Working from the top. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tim Comments: Is there any easy way to pull the old oil feed line and put in your new one? Any advice would be great. Thanks.
May 28, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, it is too tight of a work space for anything easy to happen. You'll have to gain access to the turbocharger first. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Frank Comments: Good job guys, nice tutorial and easy to follow. Thanks
April 10, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mike beck Comments: can i assume you removed the manifold as well?
March 9, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes. It looks like it is unbolted, then left in place. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
psi4pow Comments: I wish they showed the different washers for the coolant and oil as well as the different coolant lines. If your going to go through this effort to document so well might as well include the critical items.
December 26, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I see step 22 mentions them. I will see if I can have some info added about washer location. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Fri 12/9/2016 02:34:39 AM