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Pelican Technical Article:

Manual Transmission Removal

Steve Vernon

Time:

8 hours8 hrs

Tab:

$0

Talent:

*****

Tools:

Complete socket and wrench set, two jacks, flathead and Philips screwdrivers, pry bar

Applicable Models:

VW Golf GTI (2000)
VW Golf GTI 1.8T (2002-05)
VW Golf GTI 20th Anniversary (2003)
VW Golf GTI 337 (2002)
VW Golf GTI GLS (2001)

Parts Required:

New single use hardware

Hot Tip:

Get a friend or two to help

Performance Gain:

Fix gearbox problems

Complementary Modification:

Clutch replacement, Transmission fluid replacement

There are several reasons for needing to remove the transmission from your vehicle starting with replacing the clutch. The job involves a certain amount of patience as you will be moving heavy components around and you want to make sure you take your time and work safely. If you have never removed a transmission from a front wheel drive car before it is a really good idea to have a friend or two to help when it comes time to separate and lower the transmission. We demonstrate how to perform the job using a floor jack and an engine hoist. The job can be done using two floor jacks but it gets a little crowded under the vehicle. Take you time follow the instructions and you can save yourself a lot of money over what a shop would charge.

Volkswagen considers all of the mounting hardware to be single use only. Make sure you order new hardware before beginning this job.

Safely jack up and support your vehicle. Please see our article

You will need to disconnect and remove the battery (red arrow) and remove the airbox (yellow arrow).
Figure 1

You will need to disconnect and remove the battery (red arrow) and remove the airbox (yellow arrow). Please see our article on battery and air box removal for further help with these procedures.

Remove the two shift cables (red arrows) from the mechanism.
Figure 2

Remove the two shift cables (red arrows) from the mechanism. On the older style slip a 13mm wrench between the cable end and connection and pry them off. Newer style cables have clip connections.

Mark and remove the adjustable ends to the shift cables (red arrows, already removed).
Figure 3

Mark and remove the adjustable ends to the shift cables (red arrows, already removed). Remove the three 13mm bolts holding the cable mount (yellow arrows) to the transmission. Unclip the clutch hydraulic line (green arrow) from the mount.

If your clutch is working fine and you are not replacing the slave cylinder leave the hydraulic line attached (yellow arrow) and remove the two 13mm/T45 Torx bit bolts (red arrows) and pull the slave cylinder out from the bell housing.
Figure 4

If your clutch is working fine and you are not replacing the slave cylinder leave the hydraulic line attached (yellow arrow) and remove the two 13mm/T45 Torx bit bolts (red arrows) and pull the slave cylinder out from the bell housing. If you are replacing the slave cylinder please see our article on slave cylinder replacement.

Loosen but do not remove the 18mm bolt on the upper rear mount (red arrow).
Figure 5

Loosen but do not remove the 18mm bolt on the upper rear mount (red arrow). Remove the 13mm nut and ground wire attached to the upper center bolt (yellow arrow) then loosen but do not remove the 18mm bolt it was attached to.

Remove the starter motor (red arrow).
Figure 6

Remove the starter motor (red arrow). Please see our article on starter removal. Next remove the reverse light switch connection. Please see our article on reverse or back up light switch.

Working under the right side of the car remove the six 12 point 12mm bolts between the axle and flange (red arrow, two shown) You do not need to remove the heat shield for the turbo (yellow arrows) but it will give you more room to work.
Figure 7

Working under the right side of the car remove the six 12 point 12mm bolts between the axle and flange (red arrow, two shown) You do not need to remove the heat shield for the turbo (yellow arrows) but it will give you more room to work. Pull the axle out from the flange and tie it up out of the way. Next, remove the speedometer sensor connection. Please see our article on speedometer sensor replacement for addition information.

Loosen and remove the 18mm bolt on the right side of the transmission case by the flange (red arrow).
Figure 8

Loosen and remove the 18mm bolt on the right side of the transmission case by the flange (red arrow).

Remove the six bolts from the left side axle to flange (red arrow, one shown) and tie the axle up out of the way.
Figure 9

Remove the six bolts from the left side axle to flange (red arrow, one shown) and tie the axle up out of the way.

Remove the 16mm bolt holding the power steering cooling line to the transmission case (red arrow).
Figure 10

Remove the 16mm bolt holding the power steering cooling line to the transmission case (red arrow). The 13mm bolt (yellow arrow) should have been removed when removing the starter motor. Loosen but do not remove the two 16mm bolts joining the bell housing to engine case (green arrows).

Remove the bog bone mount.
Figure 11

Remove the bog bone mount. Please see our article on removing the dog bone mount.

Support the engine from an engine hoist from above (red arrow) or from a jack from below.
Figure 12

Support the engine from an engine hoist from above (red arrow) or from a jack from below. You are going to have to lower the engine a little when separating the transmission so make sure what ever configuration you use you still have the ability to do this. Do not place a jack directly on the oil pan, use a piece of wood or something to help spread the load.

Place your floor jack under the transmission.
Figure 13

Place your floor jack under the transmission. You need to place the jack at an angle that will allow you to pull the transmission direct back and away from the engine case.

Remove the cross brace from the transmission mount to the transmission (red arrows).
Figure 14

Remove the cross brace from the transmission mount to the transmission (red arrows).

With the engine and transmission safely supported remove the two 18mm transmission mounting bolts (yellow arrows).
Figure 15

With the engine and transmission safely supported remove the two 18mm transmission mounting bolts (yellow arrows). With a friends help separate the transmission from the engine. Carefully lower the engine (approx 3-6 inches) until you can pull the transmission off and clear of the engine. Have a friend to help steady the transmission case while you lower it out from under the car. Take your time, it is a tight fit but it will come out.

With the transmission removed and the engine safely supported you now have access to the clutch (red arrow).
Figure 16

With the transmission removed and the engine safely supported you now have access to the clutch (red arrow).

Here is the transmission removed from the car.
Figure 17

Here is the transmission removed from the car. You now have access to the throw out bearing and arm as well as any other project you might want to perform on your transmission. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure to take your time when reinstalling and use all new mounting hardware.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Mrbrown Comments: I got a 03 gti 1.8 I need a new transmission but they told me that this car has two different transmissions how can I know witch one do I have???
September 28, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Use your VIN when calling for parts to identify what trans came in your vehicle. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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