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Drive Belt Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Drive Belt Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$60

Talent:

***

Tools:

Set of sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, tensioner tool, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Saab 9-3 2.0T (2006-07)

Parts Required:

Drive belts

Hot Tip:

Work with a cool engine

Performance Gain:

Proper engine accessory operation

Complementary Modification:

Replace idler pulley

One drive belt in the 2.0t 4-cylinder engine drive the accessories pulleys at the right side of the engine. The A/C compressor and alternator are driven by one belt.

Note that the engine cooling fan is electric and not belt-driven.

The belts are tensioned by a strong tensioner and do not need periodic adjustment. But they will, over time and due to heat, cold and the rigors of operating multiple pulleys, develop signs of wear: cracks, fraying, glazing or missing chunks. In addition, the tensioners and idler pulleys may develop defects. Bearings in these pulleys are lifetime lubricated. The lubrication eventually dries up or wears out and may cause noises. If a pulley bearing deteriorates, it can tilt and allow the belt to fly off the pulleys. If it seizes it can damage the belt quite quickly due to excessive friction.

With your engine cold and turned OFF, inspect your drive belts for wear. The belts should be free from cracks, fraying, glazing and missing chunks. Replace the belts if any of the previously mentioned issues are present or every four years.

Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve, as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Jack and support the front of your vehicle. See our tech article on Jacking your Saab 93.

Click here to order your ENGINE DRIVE BELTS for this repair. 

The drive belt is barely noticeable from the top (red arrow).
Figure 1

The drive belt is barely noticeable from the top (red arrow). It is replaced from the right side wheel well.

One drive belt in the 2.
Figure 2

One drive belt in the 2.0t 4-cylinder engine drives the accessories pulleys at the right side of the engine. The A/C compressor (yellow arrow) and alternator (blue arrow) are driven by one belt via the crankshaft pulley (green arrow) tensioned by the automatic tensioner (red arrow).

With the right front wheel removed, you will have to remove the wheel well liner (red arrows).
Figure 3

With the right front wheel removed, you will have to remove the wheel well liner (red arrows).

Start in the front of the liner.
Figure 4

Start in the front of the liner. Remove the four 8mm fasteners (red arrows). Then remove the two 10mm plastic nuts (blue arrows).

Next, remove the four plastic 10mm nuts at the top and rear of the liner (red arrows).
Figure 5

Next, remove the four plastic 10mm nuts at the top and rear of the liner (red arrows).

At the rear bottom of the liner, remove the two remaining 8mm fasteners (red arrows).
Figure 6

At the rear bottom of the liner, remove the two remaining 8mm fasteners (red arrows).

Pull the liner out of the fender lip.
Figure 7

Pull the liner out of the fender lip.

The wheel well liner should drop out of the wheel well once pulled out of the fender lip.
Figure 8

The wheel well liner should drop out of the wheel well once pulled out of the fender lip.

This photo shows the belt tensioner.
Figure 9

This photo shows the belt tensioner. It is pointed out with the red arrow.

Locate the 3/8-inch square recess in the tensioner (red arrow).
Figure 10

Locate the 3/8-inch square recess in the tensioner (red arrow).

Use a belt tensioner tool with a 3/8-inch drive bit (red arrow) installed.
Figure 11

Use a belt tensioner tool with a 3/8-inch drive bit (red arrow) installed. Place it in the tensioner recess so you have room to pull the tensioner toward the front of the vehicle from below.

Use a belt tensioner tool with a 3/8-inch drive bit (red arrow) installed.
Figure 12

Use a belt tensioner tool with a 3/8-inch drive bit (red arrow) installed. Place it in the tensioner recess so you have room to pull the tensioner toward the front of the vehicle from below. Pull and hold the tensioner. Then remove the drive belt from the crankshaft pulley (blue arrow) and remove it. To install the new belt, route it up and over the alternator, then under the a/c pulley and tensioner. Release the tension. Then place the belt onto the crankshaft pulley. Start the engine and allow it to run for less than 30 seconds. Shut the engine OFF and recheck the belt installation.


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