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Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$8 to $500

Talent:

**

Tools:

17mm (2), 13mm socket or wrench, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Porsche 944 Turbo (1986-89)

Parts Required:

Bushings

Hot Tip:

Do NOT use Vaseline on the bushings

Performance Gain:

Better ride quality

Complementary Modification:

Install new struts

The rear sway bar from the factory is a very good piece of engineering. Unless you plan on seriously tracking the car it is more than adequate for your 944. Being located up on the rear torsion bar tube protects the bushings on the bar. You should check the bushings every 30,000 miles. If you are going to be replacing them, it is a good idea to completely drop the bar and clean and paint it while you are performing the work. If you want a little sportier handling performance for your Porsche, you may want to consider upgrading your stock bars to a thicker or sportier bar and bushing combination or one of the aftermarket adjustable set ups.

If you are completely replacing the bar or going to fully remove it, it is best to safely raise and support the vehicle, as this will give you more room to work and remove the bar from over the exhaust. The factory bushings are rubber and when installing them you should not use Vaseline, as it will cause the rubber to break down prematurely.

The rear sway bar is mounted to the torsion bar tube on both sides of the vehicle (red arrows) and connects to the trailing arms via a drop link on each side (yellow arrow).
Figure 1

The rear sway bar is mounted to the torsion bar tube on both sides of the vehicle (red arrows) and connects to the trailing arms via a drop link on each side (yellow arrow). If you are just replacing the bushings, you do not need to remove the wheels.

This photo illustrates the mounting point and bushing on the torsion bar tube (red arrow).
Figure 2

This photo illustrates the mounting point and bushing on the torsion bar tube (red arrow). You can also see how it connects to the drop link (yellow arrow) and where the drop link connects to the trailing arm (green arrow). It is the same for both sides.

Do not remove the nut (yellow arrow) on the outside of the trailing arm that the drop link (red arrow) connects to.
Figure 3

Do not remove the nut (yellow arrow) on the outside of the trailing arm that the drop link (red arrow) connects to. This is used in the alignment and should not be disturbed.

Use two 17mm wrenches or sockets to remove the nut and bolt connecting the drop link to the sway bar (red and yellow arrows).
Figure 4

Use two 17mm wrenches or sockets to remove the nut and bolt connecting the drop link to the sway bar (red and yellow arrows).

Use a 13mm socket and remove the two bolts on the sway bar mounting brackets (red arrows).
Figure 5

Use a 13mm socket and remove the two bolts on the sway bar mounting brackets (red arrows). When you remove the last bolt the bar will be free so be prepared.

You can replace the bushing without removing the bar from the vehicle by just removing the mounting bracket (red arrow).
Figure 6

You can replace the bushing without removing the bar from the vehicle by just removing the mounting bracket (red arrow).

The bushings are slit down the back so you can slip the old one off and easily install the new bushing.
Figure 7

The bushings are slit down the back so you can slip the old one off and easily install the new bushing. Do not use any petroleum-based lubrication as they will degrade the bushing. Now is also a good time to clean and paint the bar if needed. Installation is the reverse of removal.









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