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Front Brake Rotor Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Front Brake Rotor Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$200 to $450

Talent:

**

Tools:

19mm, 13mm (2) sockets, 6mm Allen, flathead screwdriver, hammer, pliers, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, lug wrench, safety glasses, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Porsche 944 Turbo (1986-89)

Parts Required:

Rotors

Hot Tip:

Don't damage the dust caps

Performance Gain:

Car stops better

Complementary Modification:

Replace brake pads

Brakes are the most important system on your vehicle and should be checked regularly for the state of wear and tear and potential damage to the system. It is surprising how many people never look at the condition of their brakes and a simple visual inspection may be all that's needed to fend off expensive repairs. In general, you should inspect your brake pads and rotors about every 25,000 miles, and replace the rotors if there are any signs of cracks, glazing deep grooves or wear beyond the factory specs. In reality, most people don't inspect their rotors or pads and usually wait until they see the little brake-warning lamp appear on the dashboard. It's a wise idea to replace the pads, and inspect your discs as soon as you see that warning lamp go on. If you ignore the warning lamp, you may get to the point of metal on metal contact, where the metal backing of the pads are contacting the brake discs. Using the brakes during this condition will not only give you inadequate braking, but will also begin to wear grooves in your brake discs. Once the discs are grooved, they are damaged, and there is often no way to repair them. Resurfacing will sometimes work, but often the groove cut will be deeper than is allowed by OEM specifications. If you have drilled or slotted rotors on your vehicle you cannot resurface the rotor, so a visual inspection once a year is a good idea.

First thing you need to do is get the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheels removed as well as remove the brake pads. Please refer to our articles on these procedures for more information.

With the brake pads removed you will need to remove the caliper from the rotor by removing the two 19mm mounting bolts (red arrows) that connect it to the spindle.
Figure 1

With the brake pads removed you will need to remove the caliper from the rotor by removing the two 19mm mounting bolts (red arrows) that connect it to the spindle. Once the bolts are removed use care as the caliper can fall.

Remove the caliper from the spindle and rotor.
Figure 2

Remove the caliper from the spindle and rotor.

Make sure to hang the caliper safely up out of the way (red arrow).
Figure 3

Make sure to hang the caliper safely up out of the way (red arrow). Never let the caliper hang by the brake line.

You will need to remove the dust cap.
Figure 4

You will need to remove the dust cap. Use a large flathead screwdriver and hammer and gentle tap the cap forward and off (red arrow). Turn the rotor and tap at several places on the cap to keep it from binding.

With the cap off you will want to clean all the extra grease off of the end of the spindle so you can get at the locking collar.
Figure 5

With the cap off you will want to clean all the extra grease off of the end of the spindle so you can get at the locking collar. Rotate the hub until the detent in the hub is in line with the locking collar. Use a 6mm Allen and loosen the locking collar (red arrow).

With the locking collar lose you can spin it of the threads on the spindle (red arrow).
Figure 6

With the locking collar lose you can spin it of the threads on the spindle (red arrow). There is a slotted washer behind the locking collar (yellow arrow) that sits in a groove in the spindle (green arrow).

You are going to pull the rotor and hub straight off of the spindle.
Figure 7

You are going to pull the rotor and hub straight off of the spindle. When you pull the hub and rotor off the spindle (yellow arrow) together the front bearing will fall out (red arrow), so be prepared and do not let it fall or get dirty.

Take the hub and rotor to your bench.
Figure 8

Take the hub and rotor to your bench. There are five bolts through the back off the disk that help hold it to the hub (red arrow).

Use two 13mm sockets; one socket is used to hold the bolts (red arrow) and one is used to remove the nuts and washers in the front side of the hub (yellow arrow).
Figure 9

Use two 13mm sockets; one socket is used to hold the bolts (red arrow) and one is used to remove the nuts and washers in the front side of the hub (yellow arrow).

With the nuts and bolts removed you can separate the disk from the hub.
Figure 10

With the nuts and bolts removed you can separate the disk from the hub.

Before installing the new rotor, make sure to clean the mounting surface on the hub with a wire brush so it is good and flat (red arrow).
Figure 11

Before installing the new rotor, make sure to clean the mounting surface on the hub with a wire brush so it is good and flat (red arrow). Installation is the reverse of removal. When setting the tension on the front bearing, you turn the locking collar until you can turn just the thrust washer with the tip of a screwdriver.

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