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Engine Mounts Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Engine Mounts Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2-4 hours

Tab:

$40 to $550

Talent:

***

Tools:

19mm, 17mm, 13mm, 10mm wrench, jack for supporting engine, piece of wood to protect oil pan or engine lift, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench, lug wrench

Applicable Models:

Porsche 944 Turbo (1986-89)

Parts Required:

Engine mounts

Hot Tip:

Watch your knuckles, as it is a tight fit

Performance Gain:

Less vibration

Complementary Modification:

Check spark plugs

NEVER remove both mounts at the same time while supporting the engine with only a floor jack!

If you are getting body vibration, shaking of the fenders or shaking of the front of your car at idle or hearing a clunking sound as you begin to accelerate, there is a good chance your engine mounts need replacement. The mounts on the Porsche 944 will wear out over time. The mounts on the Turbo or 951 usually wear out a lot quicker due to the extra heat from the turbo.

Porsche redesigned the engine mounts years ago. It is unusual to find a vehicle with the old style mounts still in them. The old style mounts have a bolt with a nut on the bottom of them. Where the new style mounts, the bolts just screw into the mounts themselves. If you have the old style mounts, you will need to make sure you use the right length bolts.

Depending on how old and worn your mounts are will depend on how difficult this job will be. If the old mount has lost most of its support, it will be easy to remove it from the vehicle. The installation of the new (expanded mount) will be a very tight fit.

It is very difficult to get good pictures removing the mounts, so this project will include some pictures with major components removed for photographic purposes. You do not need to remove anything except what is described here.

While you can remove the mounts without removing the sway bar, it is much easier and will save you a ton of time if you get the sway bar out of the way before you begin. Please see our article on sway bar removal for additional assistance.

You are going to have to lower the cross member, so you will need to safely lift and support your vehicle as well as remove the front tires. Please see our article on these procedures for further assistance.

While visually inspecting your mounts for damage you also want to check and see if your vehicle still has the old style motor mounts.
Figure 1

While visually inspecting your mounts for damage you also want to check and see if your vehicle still has the old style motor mounts. A quick and easy check is to look at the bottom of the mount (red arrow). If they are the old style engine mounts, there will be a nut on the bottom of the mounting bolt and you will have to purchase new hardware. These are the new style mounts.

You are going to be lowering the cross member (yellow arrow) as well as raising the engine (red arrow).
Figure 2

You are going to be lowering the cross member (yellow arrow) as well as raising the engine (red arrow). Make sure to use a piece of wood to distribute the lift point of the jack so as not to damage the oil pan.

Use a 17mm wrench.
Figure 3

Use a 17mm wrench. Reaching between the lower control arm and cross member, remove the 17mm nut on the bottom of the engine mount (red arrow).

Use a 19mm socket and lower the cross member by loosening but not removing the two bolts on each side (red arrows).
Figure 4

Use a 19mm socket and lower the cross member by loosening but not removing the two bolts on each side (red arrows). The best way to accomplish this is to unscrew one bolt at a time until it is completely removed, and then screw it back in several threads.

Working on the left side, use a 10mm wrench and remove the two bolts (red arrow) holding the shield in place (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

Working on the left side, use a 10mm wrench and remove the two bolts (red arrow) holding the shield in place (yellow arrow). Note the turbo exhaust plumbing has been removed to give you a better picture.

Remove the two 13mm bolts from the top of the mount (red arrow, one shown).
Figure 6

Remove the two 13mm bolts from the top of the mount (red arrow, one shown). With the cross member lowered, you will want to raise the engine enough so you can twist out and remove the mount.

With the turbo removed, you can see the engine support on the left side of the motor (red arrow) and how it attaches to the mount (yellow arrows).
Figure 7

With the turbo removed, you can see the engine support on the left side of the motor (red arrow) and how it attaches to the mount (yellow arrows). You will not be able to see this while working, but it will give you a better idea of what you are doing. Twist the new mount into place. There is a notch in the new mount for proper alignment of the mount that needs to sit in the cross member.

On the right side you will need to use a 10mm wrench and remove the shield (red arrows).
Figure 8

On the right side you will need to use a 10mm wrench and remove the shield (red arrows).

With the shield removed you can see the mount and the 13mm bolts (red arrow).
Figure 9

With the shield removed you can see the mount and the 13mm bolts (red arrow). Note the exhaust has been removed for the picture.

This photo illustrates the right side heat shield.
Figure 10

This photo illustrates the right side heat shield. If your vehicle is missing this you should install a new one, as this protects the mounts from the exhaust manifolds. Not having this shield will greatly diminish the life of your mounts.

This photo illustrates the new style mounts that do away with the nuts by having the bolt screw directly into the mount (red arrows).
Figure 11

This photo illustrates the new style mounts that do away with the nuts by having the bolt screw directly into the mount (red arrows).

When installing the mounts you will need to twist them into position so that the notch sits in the correct orientation in the cross member.
Figure 12

When installing the mounts you will need to twist them into position so that the notch sits in the correct orientation in the cross member. Installation is the reverse of removal.

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Comments and Suggestions:
rick Comments: 1986 porsche 944 turbo
July 16, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think the manifold will have to come out, due to the engine angle.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche_944_Turbo/79-EXHAUST-Exhaust_Manifold_Removal/79-EXHAUST-Exhaust_Manifold_Removal.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
rick Comments: is it possible to replace the manifold heat shield while the headers are on?
June 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What vehicle are you working on? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Michael Comments: Hi Nick,
Actually, I did call, after I sent this and was referred by the gentleman with the english/australian accent to either you or Bob Tindle...I will be happy to look elsewhere. Just wanted you to know.
January 26, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm. I don't have a part look up application. The bolts will be metric, if you have the new mounts, go to a hardware store and match up the size. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: So, what is the correct size bolt when replacing the engine mounts with the redesigned mounts? Im having problems getting just one mount to seat correctly...is it best to replace both mounts so the engine sits correctly? Because if I only replace one mount with the redesigned one, the other one is the old style. Just need a little guidance here...thanks
January 16, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don;t have the bolt size handy. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right bolt size.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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