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Hatch Latch Repair and Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Hatch Latch Repair and Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$5 to $70

Talent:

*

Tools:

13mm, 10mm wrench, 6mm 12 point, small flathead screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Porsche 944 Turbo (1986-89)

Parts Required:

Latches or new grommet

Hot Tip:

Careful working around the glass

Performance Gain:

Proper working hatch

Complementary Modification:

New hatch shocks

A very common problem with the Porsche 944 and 951 is squeaking and rattling coming from the rear hatch. This is usually caused by a miss adjustment of the latching mechanism or a drying out of the rubber grommet between the hatch post and the latch.

This article will show you how to repair the latch by replacing the rubber grommet as well as replacing the latch assembly.

Begin by opening the hatch and removing the rear trim panel.

From inside the vehicle looking out towards the rear hatch you can see the latch mechanism.
Figure 1

From inside the vehicle looking out towards the rear hatch you can see the latch mechanism. There is a central control (yellow arrow) that you can work with the key from the outside that is also controlled by a remote motor mechanism (red arrow) inside the car. The central control or pivot points have two metal rods attached to them with ball cup fasteners attached at each end (green arrows) The latches have been already removed to illustrate the rods and ball cups on the end.

To replace the latch mechanism or the rubber grommet you will need to remove it from the chassis.
Figure 2

To replace the latch mechanism or the rubber grommet you will need to remove it from the chassis. Use a 10mm wrench and remove the two nuts and washers from each cover (red arrows). The covers originally came with drain tubes (yellow arrow) to drain any water down out through the bottom of the car but most of these have long since been lost. If your vehicle does not have the drain tubes you can make your own from the right sized tubing and run it down and out through the drain hole in the rear.

Depending on the size of your fingers you may be able to separate the rod end (yellow arrow) from the ball (red arrow) on the latch while the latch is still in place.
Figure 3

Depending on the size of your fingers you may be able to separate the rod end (yellow arrow) from the ball (red arrow) on the latch while the latch is still in place. If you can't don't worry. Just carefully remove the latch from its two posts and then separate the rod from the latch.

Do not try and force the ball joint cup off the latch; there is a clip on the end of the cup (red arrow).
Figure 4

Do not try and force the ball joint cup off the latch; there is a clip on the end of the cup (red arrow). Once you use a small flathead screwdriver to open the clip the end will separate and the rod will easily come off the latch.

With the latch off you can see the most common problem with old latches.
Figure 5

With the latch off you can see the most common problem with old latches. There is a rubber grommet (red arrow) on the underside of the latch that sits between the post and the latch. As these get hard, old or brittle with age they can disintegrate and allow metal on metal contact between the post and the latch.

Remove the old grommet (red arrow) from the latch making sure you get it all out and clean.
Figure 6

Remove the old grommet (red arrow) from the latch making sure you get it all out and clean. Then lubricate the latch.

Make sure that the orientation of the grommet (red arrow) lines up with the conical shape of the latch pin.
Figure 7

Make sure that the orientation of the grommet (red arrow) lines up with the conical shape of the latch pin.

Use the appropriate sized socket and push the grommet into place.
Figure 8

Use the appropriate sized socket and push the grommet into place. You can now reinstall the latch.

Check the condition of the latch post plate by lifting up the rubber gasket over the latch plate.
Figure 9

Check the condition of the latch post plate by lifting up the rubber gasket over the latch plate. If the posts have separated from the plate, you will need to replace this piece. Simply remove the gasket, lift the plate up and out, and install a new one.

With the latches reinstalled and only finger tight you need to check the alignment with the post.
Figure 10

With the latches reinstalled and only finger tight you need to check the alignment with the post. To adjust the alignment loosen the two 6mm 12 points and align the posts with the opening in the latch. Next you need to adjust the height of the posts in relation to the latch. Begin by loosening the lock nut and turning the posts until when you try and lock the hatch both sides will not seat in the latches. Next, turn each post a full turn so they are extended more. You should be all set. Doublecheck everything. Then tighten everything down and check again.






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