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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Shock Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$60 to $280

Talent:

**

Tools:

Jack, jack stands, 22mm, 19mm (2) wrench, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, lug wrench, torque wrench, Liquid Wrench or WD-40

Applicable Models:

Porsche 944 Turbo (1986-89)

Parts Required:

Shocks

Hot Tip:

Soak everything with penetrating oil

Performance Gain:

Better handling

Complementary Modification:

Install performance shocks

The rear shocks dampen the ride of your Porsche 944 and keep it rolling smoothly down the road. When they begin to wear, ride quality and vehicle handling suffers. If you notice that your vehicle is not smooth over bumps or feels soft when cornering, this could be an indicator of worn shocks. To check your shocks, push down on the rear corner of your vehicle, (the side you want to inspect the shock on). When you give the corner one good push down, it should bounce up, then slightly down and stop. If it continues to bounce, the shocks are worn out. You have the choice to replace your shocks with a factory spec set or install a more performance oriented one. A performance set of shocks can greatly increase the handling of your 944 or 951. 

You will need to jack up the car and remove the rear wheels to perform this job. Please see our article on safely jacking up and supporting your vehicle. Some people claim to be able to perform this work without removing the wheel, but there is a bolt that holds the top of the shock on that runs into the inner wheel area. Give yourself some room and remove the wheels.

The rear shock connects to the trailing arm (red arrow) on the bottom and the chassis (yellow arrow) on the top.
Figure 1

The rear shock connects to the trailing arm (red arrow) on the bottom and the chassis (yellow arrow) on the top. Note: other components have been removed in the picture for other articles. You do not need to remove anything other than what is illustrated in the article.

There is a bolt that runs from the inner wheel well through the top of the shock (red arrow).
Figure 2

There is a bolt that runs from the inner wheel well through the top of the shock (red arrow).

Begin by using a 22mm socket or wrench to loosen the lower shock bolt (red arrow).
Figure 3

Begin by using a 22mm socket or wrench to loosen the lower shock bolt (red arrow). You may need to use a fair amount of force, so be prepared with a socket and a breaker bar.

With the bolt loosened, support the trailing arm with a jack (red arrow) to take the weight off the bolt.
Figure 4

With the bolt loosened, support the trailing arm with a jack (red arrow) to take the weight off the bolt. This will make it easier to remove the bolt and washer.

Remove the large mounting bolt and washer (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

Remove the large mounting bolt and washer (yellow arrow). It is fine to remove the jack once the bolt is removed, but you will need to raise the trailing arm (red arrow) when you go to install the new shock and hardware

Use a 19mm wrench and remove the upper nut (red arrow).
Figure 6

Use a 19mm wrench and remove the upper nut (red arrow). You may need to hold the 19mm bolt (illustration #2) with another 19mm wrench and then push the bolt far enough into the wheel well until you can slip the shock out. Installation is the reverse of removal.

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