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Pelican Technical Article:

Hood Shock Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

30 minutes30 mins

Tab:

$20 to $120

Talent:

*

Tools:

Small flathead screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Porsche 944 (1983-89)
Porsche 944 S2 (1989-91)
Porsche 944 Turbo (1986-89)
Porsche 944S (1987-88)

Parts Required:

New shocks

Hot Tip:

Get someone to hold the hood up

Performance Gain:

You can work on the engine without worrying about getting hit in the head

Complementary Modification:

New air filter

Changing your own hood and hatch shocks is a great and easy way to get started on DIY, or "Do It Yourself" projects. It should take you less than 30 minutes to do both the shocks on the hood and rear hatch, and you can save a lot of money from what a shop might charge. The only thing you really need to worry about is dropping the hood or hatch on your head. You will need to have a friend hold the hood up or brace the hood in the up position with a sturdy piece of wood. The hood is surprisingly heavy. That said, you do not want it falling on you when you are working.

The rear hatch shocks contain electrical connections and are different side to side. If you do not get the right shock for each side your interior light may not work or stay on constantly and you can also lose the function of the hatch defroster. Make sure to check when ordering to ensure you have the right parts.

Hood shock: There are two shocks (one on each side) of the hood.
Figure 1

Hood shock: There are two shocks (one on each side) of the hood. If you are changing out the shocks by yourself, make sure to brace the hood well (red arrow), as it is heavy. If it falls it can do a surprising amount of damage to you and the vehicle.

Hood shock: Both shocks are located at the rear of the engine compartment by the base of the windshield.
Figure 2

Hood shock: Both shocks are located at the rear of the engine compartment by the base of the windshield. They mount to the inside of the fender (red arrow) and to a bracket on the hood (yellow arrow).

Hood shock: You can find a surprising amount of different hardware that has been installed over the years (red arrow).
Figure 3

Hood shock: You can find a surprising amount of different hardware that has been installed over the years (red arrow).

Hood shock - With the hood properly supported and the pressure off the shock, remove the fasteners to the hood bracket (red arrow).
Figure 4

Hood shock: With the hood properly supported and the pressure off the shock, remove the fasteners to the hood bracket (red arrow).

Hood shock: The lower shock mounts can vary over the years but they all attach with a ball on the mount and a socket in the shock.
Figure 5

Hood shock: The lower shock mounts can vary over the years but they all attach with a ball on the mount and a socket in the shock. These old shocks needed the cap pried out to release the ball from the socket (red arrow).

Hood shock: Before installing the new shock make sure to clean and lubricate the ball mount (red arrow).
Figure 6

Hood shock: Before installing the new shock make sure to clean and lubricate the ball mount (red arrow).

Hood shock - Most modern shocks will have a clip that needs to be gently pried out to remove the shock, but you do not need to remove the clip to install them; just push them on and they will clip in place.
Figure 7

Hood shock: Most modern shocks will have a clip that needs to be gently pried out to remove the shock, but you do not need to remove the clip to install them; just push them on and they will clip in place.

Rear Hatch: Like the front there are two rear shocks (yellow arrow) holding the rear hatch.
Figure 8

Rear Hatch: Like the front there are two rear shocks (yellow arrow) holding the rear hatch. Again, the hatch is heavy so make sure to properly support the weight of it before replacing the shocks (red arrow).

Rear Hatch - The left side shocks contain the electrical connections for the rear window defroster.
Figure 9

Rear Hatch: The left side shocks contain the electrical connections for the rear window defroster. There is a small tab on the top and bottom of the shock (red arrow). Remove the electrical connection and replace the shock in the same manner as the fronts.

Rear Hatch: There is an electrical connection for the interior light on the base of the right side shock (red arrow).
Figure 10

Rear Hatch: There is an electrical connection for the interior light on the base of the right side shock (red arrow). Remove the electrical connection and replace the shocks in the same manner as the fronts.






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