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Rothsport Oil Inlet Check Valve Installation
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rothsport Oil Inlet Check Valve Installation

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$450

Talent:

**

Tools:

15mm socket, flathead screwdriver, hose cutter

Applicable Models:

Porsche 911 (1965-89)

Parts Required:

Oil check valve, S-hose, 2 washers, oil

Hot Tip:

Change the S-hose

Performance Gain:

Eliminate oil cloud on start up

Complementary Modification:

Change oil filter

One of the common problems with classic 911s can be a plume of oil smoke from your exhaust on start up. This is especially true for cars that do not get driven regularly or have sat for a while. While this is not harmful to the engine if after starting you get the engine up to operating temperature it can be quite embarrassing. There is nothing worse than having all eyes on you as you step into your 911 only to have a gigantic smoke screen come from the exhaust on start up.

The majority of this smoke on startup comes from oil from the oil tank migrating back into the motor. Rothsport has come up with an ingenuous solution to this problem by designing an oil inlet check valve that restricts the flow of oil back into the motor and opens instantly on start up. Installation is quick and easy and a perfect solution for cars that sit for long periods of time. Note; the valve is clearly marked with an engine side and a tank side. Failure to install the check valve in the right orientation will lead to oil starvation and catastrophic damage to your engine. Please make sure to read all the instructions and double check the orientation of the valve when installing.

The oil migration problem happens in the S-hose and while you can drain the oil and install the check valve without removing the hose from the car we highly recommend installing a new S-hose. The hose is prone to degradation (especially if the car sits for long periods of time) and it is easy to do and cheap insurance. See our tech article on S-Hose replacement.

This photo illustrates the S-hose (red arrow) that connects to the oil tank (green arrow) and the motor at the bottom of the oil cooler (yellow arrow).
Figure 1

This photo illustrates the S-hose (red arrow) that connects to the oil tank (green arrow) and the motor at the bottom of the oil cooler (yellow arrow). This is the hose that allows the oil to migrate back to the motor.

Rothsports solution is to install a check valve in this hose.
Figure 2

Rothsports solution is to install a check valve in this hose. The kit comes with the check valve (red arrow) and two hose clamps (yellow arrows). The check valve is clearly marked with directions for the flow of oil to insure proper installation. Both sides of the valve are clearly marked engine and tank.

Begin by removing the drain plug for the oil tank.
Figure 3

Begin by removing the drain plug for the oil tank. Use a 15mm socket and remove the plug (red arrow). You do not need to change the filter but if you are close to an oil and filter change now would be a good time to do it. Please see our article on oil and filter change for additional assistance.

Use a 15mm socket and drain the oil from the sump plate (red arrow).
Figure 4

Use a 15mm socket and drain the oil from the sump plate (red arrow).

Be sure to check the magnetic plug inside the drain plug and clean it of any small shavings (red arrow).
Figure 5

Be sure to check the magnetic plug inside the drain plug and clean it of any small shavings (red arrow). If you have anything larger than the type of micro shavings or metal sludge shown here you may have serious problems with your motor that warrant further investigation. Install new washers (yellow arrow) on both plugs and reinstall the plugs.

If you wanted to you could section the existing hose (green arrows) while it is in the vehicle and install the new check valve (red arrow) and clamps and be done but if your hose has any age on it we recommend installing a new hose.
Figure 6

If you wanted to you could section the existing hose (green arrows) while it is in the vehicle and install the new check valve (red arrow) and clamps and be done but if your hose has any age on it we recommend installing a new hose. If you are doing the installation this way you need to section out approximately 1 - 2 inches of hose to install the valve. Note; make sure the side of the check valve labeled tank faces the tank and the side that is labeled engine faces the engine.

Use a flathead screwdriver and remove the hose clamp and hose from the oil tank (red arrow).
Figure 7

Use a flathead screwdriver and remove the hose clamp and hose from the oil tank (red arrow).

When removing the S-hose from the oil tank use caution as the hose will have a fair amount of residual oil in it (red arrow).
Figure 8

When removing the S-hose from the oil tank use caution as the hose will have a fair amount of residual oil in it (red arrow).

Clean the outlet of the oil tank (red arrow).
Figure 9

Clean the outlet of the oil tank (red arrow).

Use a flathead screwdriver and remove the hose clamp and hose from where it joins the motor at the bottom of the oil cooler (red arrow).
Figure 10

Use a flathead screwdriver and remove the hose clamp and hose from where it joins the motor at the bottom of the oil cooler (red arrow). Clean this area before installation.

Take your new S-hose and mark approximately 1 ' inches in the center of the hose (yellow arrows) that you will need to cut out.
Figure 11

Take your new S-hose and mark approximately 1 - 2  inches in the center of the hose (yellow arrows) that you will need to cut out. You want to remove approximately the same amount of hose that the valve will take up (red arrow).

Again, the valve is clearly marked with an engine side (yellow arrow) and a tank side (red arrow).
Figure 12

Again, the valve is clearly marked with an engine side (yellow arrow) and a tank side (red arrow). Failure to install the check valve in the right orientation will lead to catastrophic damage to your engine.

There is a plunger inside the housing that minimizes the flow of oil back to the motor (red arrow).
Figure 13

There is a plunger inside the housing that minimizes the flow of oil back to the motor (red arrow). This plunger closes when the motor is off and opens the instant the motor starts.

Install the valve (red arrow) into the new S-hose leaving the hose clamps (yellow arrows) slightly lose until the final fitting.
Figure 14

Install the valve (red arrow) into the new S-hose leaving the hose clamps (yellow arrows) slightly lose until the final fitting.

Install the new S-hose with the check valve between the tank and engine.
Figure 15

Install the new S-hose with the check valve between the tank and engine. Tighten the hose clamps on the tank (red arrow) and engine (yellow arrow).

Triple check that you have the valve installed in the right orientation and do a final tighten on all the hose clamps (red arrow).
Figure 16

Triple check that you have the valve installed in the right orientation and do a final tighten on all the hose clamps (red arrow).

Do NOT forget to refill your engine with oil (red arrow).
Figure 17

Do NOT forget to refill your engine with oil (red arrow). Start the engine and double check for leaks and oil level. Congratulations you have just installed your oil inlet check valve.

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Comments and Suggestions:
K_fed Comments: Good article. Mine is doing just that and it will be my next project as soon as it warms up. Price is listed for project but a parts list with links would be helpful to ensure proper partsand easier ordering.
January 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We are working on getting that info onto all the article pages. Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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