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Rear Control Arm Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Control Arm Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$200 to $500

Talent:

*****

Tools:

21mm socket/wrench and extensions, torque wrench, pry bar

Applicable Models:

Porsche 955 Cayenne (2004-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne GTS (2008-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne S (2003-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo (2003-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo S (2006-10)

Parts Required:

Control arms, control arm bushings, fastening hardware

Hot Tip:

Take your time and follow the directions closely

Performance Gain:

Better handling

Complementary Modification:

Replace rear shocks

Over time, the rubber bushings inside suspension components will eventually wear out and start to deteriorate. This can manifest in a number of different handling problems. You should inspect the control arm bushings for wear every couple of years. In this article, we will focus on replacing the entire control arm, however you can buy the bushings separately and have them pressed into the arm by a local machine shop.

Begin by jacking up your Cayenne and placing it on jack stands. Then remove the rear wheels. See our article on Jacking Up Your Cayenne for more information. Always wear safety glasses any time you work under your car. Note that Porsche recommends replacing fastening hardware that uses a final degree torquing method. This is due to the stretching of the bolts when they were initially tightened. You'll also need to do the final torquing of the bolts with the car's rear suspension fully loaded. This means with the wheels on the ground.

I'd also suggest having the suspension alignment of the car checked after replacing any suspension component. Using our article, the suspension geometry should be "close enough" for the drive down to the alignment shop.

Shown here is the lower rear control arm.
Figure 1

Shown here is the lower rear control arm. Over time, the bushings in the control arm can wear out, leading to erratic handling problems. In this article we will focus on replacing the entire control arm with the bushings already fitted.

Locate the 21mm nut (yellow arrow) on the inner rear arm where it attaches to the subframe.
Figure 2

Locate the 21mm nut (yellow arrow) on the inner rear arm where it attaches to the subframe. You'll notice that there is an off-center washer behind it. This washer is an eccentric that allows the end of the control arm to be adjusted. Make a mark on the washer (indicated by the green line). When installing the new arm, you'll want to rotate the bolt until the eccentric lines up with the mark on the subframe. This will keep the suspension geometry in the same orientation.

Loosen and remove the 21mm nut (green arrow) while counter-holding the bolt (yellow arrow).
Figure 3

Loosen and remove the 21mm nut (green arrow) while counter-holding the bolt (yellow arrow). Once the nut is removed, push the bolt back out of the control arm and subframe. When installing the fastening hardware, tighten it firmly. Once the car is back on the ground, torque them to 180 Nm (133 ft/lbs.).

Next, move to the front control arm connection at the subframe.
Figure 4

Next, move to the front control arm connection at the subframe. You'll notice that the fasteners are located in a bit of an awkward location. The mounting bolt is accessed through the hole in the subframe (green arrow). The securing nut is located at the front of the arm (yellow arrow).

You'll have just enough room at the front (green arrow) to slip a 21mm wrench in between the frame and the control arm.
Figure 5

You'll have just enough room at the front (green arrow) to slip a 21mm wrench in between the frame and the control arm. You also have just enough room to carefully push the bolt back through the subframe/control arm with a pry bar.

Shown here is the 21mm bolt just visible through the hole in the subframe (green arrow).
Figure 6

Shown here is the 21mm bolt just visible through the hole in the subframe (green arrow). Getting the bolt out of the hole can be a bit of a challenge. When installing the new arm, be sure to replace the fastening hardware. The part number for the bolt is N-105-326-02 and the nut is N-103-353-04. When installing the new fastening hardware, tighten it firmly. Once the car is back on the ground, torque them to 150 Nm (111 ft/lbs.) plus a 90-degree turn.

Shown here is the connection of the control arm to the wheel carrier.
Figure 7

Shown here is the connection of the control arm to the wheel carrier. Loosen the 21mm nut (green arrow) while counter-holding the 21mm bolt on the opposite side of the wheel carrier. You'll need to jack up the control arm enough to take the load off the bolt (yellow arrow) and then push it out of the wheel carrier. When installing the new arm, be sure to replace the fastening hardware. The part number for the bolt is N-105-230-02 and the nut is N-103-353-04. When installing the new fastening hardware, tighten it firmly. Once the car is back on the ground, torque them to 150 Nm (111 ft/lbs.) plus a 90-degree turn.

Place the floor jack under the bottom of the control arm with a block of wood as shown here to take the load off the mounting bolt.
Figure 8

Place the floor jack under the bottom of the control arm with a block of wood as shown here to take the load off the mounting bolt. Once the bolt is removed, lower the jack slowly until the shock absorber and link arms are supporting the weight of the assembly. Move the jack out of the way and carefully pry the end of the control arm off the wheel carrier and the other ends out of the subframe.

Here is the rear control arm removed from the vehicle.
Figure 9

Here is the rear control arm removed from the vehicle. At this point, you have two options, installing a new control arm with the suspension bushings (green arrows) already pressed in or press the old bushings out and fit new ones.

Note the ends of the bushings.
Figure 10

Note the ends of the bushings. One side is metal (yellow arrow) and the other rubber (green arrow). You'll want to press the bushings out on the rubber side.

The bushing in the wheel carrier (green arrow) will also need to be pressed out.
Figure 11

The bushing in the wheel carrier (green arrow) will also need to be pressed out.

Here is a bushing press set up to remove one of the bushings.
Figure 12

Here is a bushing press set up to remove one of the bushings. There are a variety of different tools on the market that can do the job. I used one from Baum Tools in this instance.

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